Kaija is on what she calls “quokka watch”. It’s key to catch the creatures before they strike. With their cat-sized bodies, wild eyes, and permanently fixed smiles, quokkas are widely regarded as “cute”. And yet this innocent facade belies a life of crime. 

“We have to keep the quokkas out of the backyard because we’re trying to grow vegies,” Kajia says. “The second something green pops out of the ground, they nail it. So we’re on quokka watch. But a big one slips in every night. It jumps over a five-foot-high fence to have a munch.” 

There are currently nine quokkas wandering around her front yard. “Where we are, with plenty of natural habitat, they’re healthy: gorgeous and fluffy,” Kaija says.

“How crazy good are they?!” says Steve, Kaija’s partner, as a quokka advances towards us. Is this the mastermind behind the vegie patch raids? 

Related: Quokkas: why we need to look beyond the smile

Peak swells

Wadjemup is the Noongar name for Rottnest Island,  a 19sq.km patch sitting 33km west of Perth in Western Australia. In 1696 Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh mistook the quokkas for giant rats and named the island ’t Eylandt ’t Rottenest, which translates to “Rats’ Nest Island”. 

In late 2022, Irish vlogger Allan Dixon – who calls himself the “animal whisperer” – jokingly referred to quokkas as “rats” in a viral video, much to the chagrin of a few West Australians. Due to several celebrity #quokkaselfies, the marsupials have struck internet gold. So Rottnest Island, known affectionately as “Rotto”, has become one of WA’s top tourist destinations. The island’s pristine beaches are an asset all on their own. 

During peak season the small population swells. “There are about 100 permanent residents here, but in terms of seasonal hospitality workers, the population might balloon out to 400,” Kaija says. “During summer or school holidays, we get long-term visitors who stay on boats or on the island. The numbers are extreme. But in winter and the off-season, it’s very quiet.” 

In the cottage where Kaija lives, she rarely sees a soul. Unlike some island communities around Australia, Rottnest Island embodies the isolation and solitude typically associated with living in a place surrounded by the sea. “Where we live in the middle of the island, there’s no-one around. Plus, it’s bushland without any facilities or water. It’s a solid 20-minute bike ride into town, so it’s remote,” Kaija says. 

The island is home to a variety of self-contained cottages, a hostel, camping ground, a handful of cafes, pubs, restaurants and a small primary school with about a dozen students. 

“Pretty much everyone lives in the town, except for us,” Kaija says. “It makes a difference because out here you can switch off. Still, the island’s town is tiny and isolated compared with most places on the mainland.” 

The cottage’s remote setting gives Kaija unrestricted access to the nearby beaches, where she spends her days boating, surfing, fishing and snorkelling. And it shows; her long, blond hair gleams with the touch of sun and sea. 

The island is home to 63 beaches – a mixture of tidal plunge pools, small sandy bays and an exposed limestone reef. “You can’t even imagine the bays. Some days, you can’t stop looking at them. It’s the most beautiful coastline I’ve ever seen,” Kaija says. 

The clarity of the water provides ample opportunity to spot vibrant populations of tropical fish both inside and outside the marine sanctuary zones. Inland, the island has 12 salt lakes, where salt-tolerant plant species such as coastal bonefruit, grey saltbush, and beaded samphire thrive. In summer, several lakes dry up, leaving behind a patchwork of pink and white hues.

Kaija and Steve enjoy the company of a close-knit group of local friends, gathering on the beach for barbecues. However, the ebb and flow of seasonal tourism makes establishing a consistent sense of community a challenge. 

“There can be lots of temporary staff who are here for a good time, here to work hard,” Kaija says. “Plus, we get inundated with visitors. So it’s quite a mix; we don’t really have all the elements of a community here.” 

Like other islands around Australia, Rottnest Island attracts those in search of solitude. “It can be a funny vibe here. You can get some happy, sea-loving people, but it is a typical small town in many ways,” Kaija says. “There are reclusive people, quiet souls. They’re hiding out here.”

Isolation without loneliness

Despite living in the most isolated part of the island, Kaija rarely feels alone. She has Steve and a lively cohort of vegetable-loving quokkas right by her side. Then there are the sounds of the night. “The house dates back to the late 1800s, so we get a lot of strange noises at night,” Kaija says. “It’s the old lighthouse-keeper’s cottage. I think until about 60 years ago, keepers were living here. I’m yet to spend a night here alone, but it would be a little weird.” 

Kaija’s work phone rings, interrupting the conversation. She moves away to answer the call and Steve steps in. He says he works in construction, handling various projects on the island. When off duty, he soaks up all that comes with their unique way of life. “We live sustainably here,” Steve says.

“We catch a lot of our food from the sea, getting crayfish and squid. We’ve got our boat and so we get to travel around. We mix it up. We’re salty!” The couple’s water supply comes from the island’s desalination plant. While their shower tanks are refilled for them, they need to be “tight” with the drinking water. When they run out, they refill the tank in town and cart it all the way up to the cottage. Fortunately, the thrill of reeling in their evening meal offsets the tedium of hauling back their water. 

“We eat fish every three days, but we could eat it every night if we didn’t get sick of it,” Steve says. “The crays here are out of control – the cray pots are always full. We’re getting squid and full-sized fish. Our freezer looks good. We have three.” 

During her phone call, Kaija playfully sings out to the person on the other end. She says their name five times as the reception wavers. The mobile phone tower is under repair, so the signal hasn’t been great recently. 

Kaija returns to me and apologises. “We had a yacht all wrapped up in ropes today, so we were just checking in,” she explains. 

During winter, she and three other rangers handle wildlife care and environmental maintenance. During summer, when a few more rangers are rostered on, the work revolves around answering visitors’ calls. More often than not, they require marine rescue.

“The other day we got called to a yacht that was sinking, and I went down into the galley of the boat and was up to my knees in water. I got flashes of Titanic,” Kaija says. Using a petrol pump, she extracted the water from the yacht. It was then towed out by a rescue boat.

Rescues occur up to three times a week during most of the year, but in summer it’s almost every day.
“It’s something I didn’t know how to do before I came here, but it’s been fun to learn!” Kaija says. “A real hit of adrenaline.” 

Related: Rottnest Island: Knowing the good life

A healthy environment

During her first few weeks as a Rottnest Island resident, Kaija attached herself to several wildlife projects she’d long been passionate about – nurturing seal colonies, rescuing sea snakes (and the occasional penguin) and monitoring the local marine ecosystem. Recently, she worked with a team to install 160 underwater cameras. When Kaija watched the first round of footage, she was astonished. She saw large numbers of tiger sharks, stingrays, squid, octopus and jewfish stopping by to inspect the new tech. 

These visuals – proof of a thriving, healthy environment – were a great comfort to Kaija.  

While Rottnest Island doesn’t restrict visitor numbers, there are a range of strategies employed to manage and minimise visitor impact.

 For Kaija, her role is more than a livelihood. It’s also a way to serve as a guardian of this unique environment, while enjoying it too. “Talking to you about the island makes me realise what I love about living here,” she says. “It can be hard work, but I get to appreciate it and get excited all over again.” 

ISLAND LIFE

Less than 1 per cent of Australia’s population lives on the small islands dotted around our continent. This number is growing as more people head across the water after the onset of COVID, rejecting costly city living and office-based work. But is “island paradise” a myth, fuelled by a desperate search for escapism? Or have these far-flung residents truly found the key to happiness? This is the
second instalment in a series exploring the realities of island life.

Also in this series:

Related: Coochiemudlo Island: Beyond the emerald fringe

Related: French Island: Life in trees, surrounded by water

The post Rottnest Island: More than quokkas appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Lancelin transforms each summer as its population of about 800 is tripled during the Christmas-New Year holiday season. In recent years Lancelin has seen a building boom, with lots of modern holiday homes replacing its old fibro weekender shacks. The town actively promotes itself as one of Australia’s premier sandboarding destinations, as well as a windsurfing and kitesurfing paradise. 

In spring, Lancelin’s beautiful beaches are rivalled by the nearby magnificent wildflowers. Lesueur National Park, 90 minutes drive north of the town, is one of the best places to see the blooms, which are at their prime in September. 

Nambung National Park – home of the Pinnacles – is about 50 minutes north of the town by road. This unusual series of limestone formations is rightly regarded as one of Australia’s natural wonders. This spectacular scenery looks as though it was snatched from the set of a sci-fi film, with thousands of limestone pillars bursting from the yellow sand to create an otherworldly landscape.

Things to do

1. Surf’s up

Back Beach – widely considered to be the area’s go-to surfing destination – is situated just south of the town. This surfing hotspot is ideal for both experienced and amateur surfers, as well as bodysurfers, bodyboarders, kitesurfers and swimmers. Book a private or group surfing lesson at Lancelin Surf School.

2. Sandboarding

Lancelin’s dunes are among the town’s major drawcards, attracting thousands of visitors each year. According to Tourism Western Australia, these are the state’s largest dunes, at more than 40m tall. Sandboarding is the most popular activity, but these spectacular dunes can also be explored on a quad-bike tour or by four-wheel-drive.
More details on tour operators

3. Explore the Pinnacles

Nambung National Park lies about 80km north of Lancelin, near Cervantes. Pinnacles Desert Discovery has displays, soundscapes, videos and images that explain the geology of the area and how the pinnacles were formed. Don’t miss the Pinnacles Desert Lookout and Drive Trail. Visitors can get up close to these strange and mysterious formations on the Desert View Walk Trail, an easy 1.6km loop from the Desert Discovery car park. 

4. Stroll along the beach

There’s a delightful 5.4km walk along the beach at Lancelin Bay from North Point to South Point. The round trip takes about an hour and is an ideal way to experience the beauty and peacefulness of this section of the coast. The best time of year to complete this track is March–June and October–November, when winds are lighter.

5. Soak up sunsets

Like so many places along WA’s coast –particularly north of Perth – Lancelin is known for its dramatic and spectacular sunsets across the Indian Ocean. The best sunset spots in and around Lancelin include the top of the dunes, the jetty and Nilgen Lookout (a 15-minute drive north of the town). 

6. Sample local seafood

Lancelin is famous for its rock-lobster (crayfish) industry, which began in the 1940s. Today, tourists can go down to the jetty at Lancelin Beach and buy fresh lobsters direct from the fleet. For those wanting to have a crack at fishing, the jetty is also a popular spot to catch herring, whiting, squid, flathead, samson fish and more. 

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Lancelin, WA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Walks in Nature

As a Coastie, I’m spoiled for choice when it comes to stretching my legs in the great outdoors. I could wax lyrical for weeks about our national parks – beautiful swathes of Aussie bush that run to meet the water’s edge – and the walking tracks that wend through forests of stately angophora, scribbly gum, grass trees, old man banksia and much more besides.

In truth, you can almost walk the entire length of the Central Coast – combining bush tracks and beach walking with little interludes in coastal hamlets and buzzing suburbs en route.

Whether you’re escaping for a mini break or a week-long sojourn, here are my picks of the best nature-based walks.

1. Bouddi National Park

There’s no end to the bushwalking you can do in this sublime slice of the Central Coast. Located on the peninsula (on the southern end of the Coast), Bouddi National Park stretches from Killcare to Macmasters Beach (Macs) and spans coastal cliffs, wildflower-infused heathland and specky views of the shimmering Brisbane Water.

At the southernmost tip is Box Head Lookout, which is a 30-minute bush stroll south from the carpark that provides you with knockout panoramas across Broken Bay to West Head Lookout, Palm Beach Lighthouse and Sydney beyond. Heading back towards the carpark you can turn left and venture through a forest of dramatic gums and down to Lobster Beach. Only accessible on foot, it’s a private oasis where you can enjoy a dip, a picnic or throw in a line. Across the water is the yellow-sand arc of Umina Beach.

My very favourite walk on the entire Coast starts at Putty Beach and finishes at Macs. Known as the Bouddi Coastal Walk, it meanders for 8.5km along slivers of sand, up and down ocean cliffs, through banksia forests and stops at dramatic lookouts where you can catch your breath. Highlights are Maitland Bay, the perfect spot for a swim in all seasons – try the protected northern end where you’ll also find a riot of rockpools for sea-creature spotting; Gerrin Point Lookout and the passing parade of migrating whales (in season); the Bombi Moor, where waratahs bloom, banksia men play and there are three lookouts to explore; and Little Beach, the perfect spot to stop, bury your feet in the sand and watch the waves (and keen surfers) frolic. Your end point, Macmasters Beach, has a spectacular headland covered in flannel flowers and home to a pair of majestic sea eagles that drift on the wind, a gorgeous ocean pool for cooling off and a great café for refuelling – try the BLT or fish tacos (both are mouth-watering).

Maitland Bay off the coast of Bouddi National Park, NSW. Image credit: Destination Central Coast

You can, of course, turn around at any point on the walk, doubling back the way you came and finishing at Putty Beach. While you’re there, look for the dolphins. I’m hesitant to say they’re residents there, but I can only recall and handful of times I’ve not seen the pod ranging up and down the coastline (and I’m a frequent flyer along this stretch of sand). The beach is also dog-friendly (although both the southern, Killcare, and northern, national park, reaches are no-go zones).

If you don’t feel like doing it alone, why not join the 4-day Signature Bouddi Trek.

2. Wyrrabalong National Park

I adore this slice of coastal bushland for its easy walking and stunning scenery. Starting at Wyrrabalong Lookout (the end of Cromarty Hill Road, Foresters Beach), the Coast Track follows the cliffs north to Crackneck Point – the perfect spot for whale-watching and water-spout spotting. You can turn around here (making it a 6km round trip), but I’d suggest continuing on (it’s all downhill) to Bateau Bay, Blue Bay and then Shelly Beach. Swimming at all is lovely, but for calm-water lovers, try Toowoon Bay (it has Mediterranean vibes), a little further north. For the keen, you can continue along the coastline (no longer in the national park, and mostly along beaches and over rock platforms) all the way to The Entrance.

Bateau Bay, Central Coast; Blue Bay, Central Coast NSW. Image credits: Destination Central Coast

3. Munmorah State Conservation Area

At the northern reach of the Central Coast sit the dramatic ocean caves of Snapper Point. You can drive to them, but that’s the cheat’s way, so instead, park your car at the end of Wybung Head Road, and tackle the short walk to a headland with stunning views across the Pacific and up and down the coast. Then head back up the road a few hundred metres and take the right turn onto a sandy bush track that will take you north through coastal heath before dropping downhill towards Frazer Beach, over rock platforms and uphill to the caves. Worn down by wave action and wind over millennia, they’re a potent reminder of the power of Mother Nature.

Wildlife Encounters

While you’re out walking be sure to stop and watch the native wildlife as it goes about its daily routine.

Birds abound in each of these parks, including the ever-entertaining and chatty sulphur-crested cockatoo, lorikeets, king parrots and kookaburras. Birds of prey, including osprey, sea-eagles, kites and goshawks are also ones to watch for on ocean headlands as they soar on thermals and hunt for their next meal (watch out little ground-dwelling marsupials!).

Here, too, is the spot for whale watching (the Coast has around 60km of coastline). Try your luck in June –July and again in September– November – it’s a veritable humpback highway out there! We also get southern right whales and minkes, but you’d have to be very lucky to spot either. You can book a whale-watching tour from Terrigal or head to one of these headlands with your binoculars:

• The Skillion, Terrigal
• Gerrin Point Lookout, Bouddi National Park
• Marie Byles Lookout, Bouddi National Park
• Captain Cook Lookout, Copacabana
• Crackneck Point, Wyrrabalong National Park
• Norah Head Lighthouse, Norah Head.

Copacabana, Central Coast; Norah Head Lighthouse, Norah Head, Central Coast NSW. Image credits: Destination Central Coast.

For a more structured animal encounter, you can’t go past the Australian Reptile Park at Somersby (take the Gosford turnoff on the M1 and follow the signs). From meeting Elvis, a 5m-long saltwater croc (and arguably the zoo’s most famous resident), to zookeeper and behind-the-scenes experiences, kids and gown-ups alike will revel in the animals and the natural surroundings. You can even tour the koala yard and give them a pat – all in the name of conservation (you’ll learn about the challenges they’re facing in the wild and what the zoo is doing to ensure we don’t lose this Aussie icon). For the not so faint of heart, you can also enter the venom room, where snakes and spiders are milked! And lastly, you can meet septuagenarian Hugo, a Galapagos tortoise weighing in at 183kg. According to zoo staff he’s in the prime of his life – members of his species live, on average, to 150 years.

Clockwise from left: A koala at the Australian Reptile Park; A keeper with a crocodile at a live show at the Australian Reptile Park; the entrance to the Australian Wildlife Park. Image credits: Destination Central Coast.

Action Jacksons

For the adventure seekers, time spent on the Coast is a true treat. Along with kilometres of bushwalking tracks, there are single track and fire trails for mountain bikers to explore.

The Strom Loop in Bouddi National Park combines both (5km of fire and single) and you can add on the option of a spin out to a granite lookout along the North-West Ridge Trail. While you’re here, check out Rocky Point trail, a one-way trail that has panoramic views from Allen Strom lookout over Hardys Bay. The trail is part of a 10km loop called the Bouddi Ridge explorer, which links several trails throughout the park. Make sure you stop pedalling long enough to enjoy the ocean lookouts and beautiful forested tracks.

Hardy Bay, Central Coast NSW. Image credit: Destination Central Coast.

While you’re in Munmorah State Conservation Area, jump on your bike for a 12.6km return track that takes you on a beautiful ride through open roads. An intermediate-level track, with hills to tackle, it starts and finishes at Matt’s Diner in Lake Munmorah, so you can tuck into a burger and chips after you’re done. The pinnacle of the ride is Wybung Head, where you can stop for a while and revel in the vast Pacific Ocean.

And for the dedicated mountain bikers, steer yourself straight over to Central Coast Mountain Bike Park at Ourimbah. Funded entirely by the community and free to use, the park has more than 18km of trails to explore, from a family loop for those just getting started to the XC and gravity trails that are used in competition events. It’s open seven days a week.

Last but not least, if you feel more comfortable in the trees than scooting around them, make a bee-line to Treetops Adventure Park. Eco-certified and nestled among the giant eucalypts of Ourimbah State Forest, the park invites you to hang around all day long. It includes obstacle courses in the tree canopy that will have all the family on a natural high – swinging, leaping, climbing and flying through the forest. There’s also tree ropes courses (from 1–20m off the ground) and a 500m long zipcoaster, or you can take it easy with Networld, bouncing around on a maze of net-like trampolines.

Exploring exciting and challenging obstacle courses high up in the tree canopy at Treetops Adventure Park, Central Coast NSW. Image credits: Destination Central Coast

Clearly, there are thousands of reasons to love the NSW Central Coast. Come find yours this winter.

Visit www.lovecentralcoast.com to plan your next trip.

This article is brought to you by Destination Central Coast.

The post Walks, wildlife and adventure: come find your cool this winter appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Nestled off Queensland’s coast, K’gari (formerly Fraser Island) stretches for 123km and measures 23km at its widest point, offering more than 1200km of sandy tracks perfect for four-wheel driving, whale-watching, sightseeing, camping, fishing and hiking. Part of the ancestral lands of the Butchulla people, European settlers renamed it Fraser Island in 1847 after Captain James Fraser, who tragically perished there in 1836. However, its true name, K’gari (the word comes from the creation stories of the Butchulla people and means ‘paradise’) was restored by the Queensland government on June 7, 2023.

Despite a devastating bushfire in October 2020 that scorched more than half of its vegetation, K’gari has shown remarkable resilience. The landscape has since regained its past splendour, save for a few charred tree trunks, scars amid the thriving foliage. The revitalisation of K’gari’s varied ecosystems was also unexpectedly bolstered by the COVID-19 pandemic, giving plants and wildlife the chance to thrive undisturbed. The reduction in human activity allowed nature to recover and flourish at a more natural rate. Consideration is now being given to imposing visitor caps at key tourist hotspots to further safeguard the island’s precious ecosystems.

Today, visitors can witness K’gari’s diverse environments and participate in a range of experiences that highlight its status as a paradise restored – a testament to both natural resilience and ongoing conservation efforts.

Rainforest

Flourishing in the centre of K’gari lies an enchanting Garden of Eden, a rare phenomenon where tall ancient rainforests thrive on dunes elevated more than 200m above sea level. It’s like nowhere else on earth, full of eucalypts, red gums, bloodwoods and the illustrious K’gari satinay tree (Fraser Island turpentine). The satinay is the real showstopper – some are estimated to have been around for 1000 years and tower up to 50m. Fun fact: These water-resilient giants even helped rebuild London’s docks post-World War II and had a hand in shaping the Suez Canal.

In the heart of this green wonderland, you’ll witness the silence of Wanggoolba Creek, where the king fern reigns supreme as a living fossil from 200 million years ago – picture fronds as long as 8m. The lush canopy is a mix of kauri pines, hoop pines, strangler figs and blackbutts, and pouring forth is a symphony of bird calls from king parrots, yellow-tailed black-cockatoos, and sulphur-crested cockatoos. Beneath the leafy canopy wander dingoes, frogs, possums, gliders and flying-foxes.

How to experience

Central Station, previously a forestry camp, features a brief boardwalk alongside Wanggoolba Creek and meanders through the fertile rainforest. It also serves as the starting point for various trails, including the Basin Lake Walk (5.6km). Hike into the Valley of the Giants camp, where you can set up your tent amid enormous ancient trees, some estimated to be more than 1200 years old, with trunks exceeding 4m in diameter.

Wallum Forest

Between the dunes and the rainforests, K’gari’s wallum forests unveil yet another biodiverse zone, a blend of heathland, shrubland and swamp bursting with native flora and fauna, adapted over millennia to thrive in the acidic, sandy soils. Dominated by fire-resistant species such as eucalypts, banksias, acacias and grass trees, the wallum forests stand as a testament to nature’s tenacity, a treasure trove of diverse flowering plants providing food for nectar-seeking mammals, birds and insects and a haven for frogs and lizards.

How to experience

Drive on sandy tracks that snake through the wallum environment, open your windows, and keep your ears tuned for the elusive ground parrot, its distinctive call reverberating through the heath. Keep an eye out for swamp wallabies and echidnas.

Freshwater lakes and creeks

Settled amidst K’gari’s ancient dunes and forests are its hidden gems – the sparkling freshwater lakes and creeks that embellish the landscape like sapphires. Fuelled by underground aquifers and rainwater, these pristine oases offer a reprieve from the island’s warmth. While sand plays a crucial role in K’gari’s formation, it’s the water that truly sets it apart. The island’s expansive natural aquifer filters rainwater that fell 60–100 years ago. Remarkably, over half of the world’s perched (dune) lakes are found here, with K’gari boasting 42. The water in these tranquil lakes and streams is so pure that it supports only a sparse array of plants and animals – typically just two or three fish species and three types of turtles.

How to experience

Dive into the cool, emerald waters of Lake McKenzie, where powdery white sands and azure depths rival the beauty of any tropical paradise. Float down Eli Creek, where clear waters wend their way through jungle-like vegetation. Incredibly, Eli Creek pumps 4.1 million litres of water per hour into the ocean – enough to fill an Olympic-sized swimming pool in 23 minutes! Hike to the secluded shores of Lake Wabby, a peaceful oasis nestled amidst towering sand dunes. For contrasting colours, check out Lake Boomanjin, believed to be the largest perched lake in the world. The lake is renowned for its reddish-brown pigment, resulting from decaying organic matter including tannins from the tea trees shooting up in its surrounding catchment.

Sand dunes

Like a colossal sandcastle, K’gari reigns supreme as the world’s largest sand island. Amidst the towering dunes, you’ll discover the intriguing phenomenon of sand blows –spots where the sand seems to have been reshuffled and designed by Mother Nature herself. These natural masterpieces not only add to the island’s allure but also give a peek into the mighty forces shaping K’gari’s ever-evolving landscape.

The eerie unearthly landscapes of desert-like sands and corrugated dunes resemble a strange cosmic moonscape – perfect for any sci-fi movie! Shrubs and grasses play a crucial role in stabilising the dunes, creating a habitat well-suited to the challenging environment. These salt-tolerant plants adjust to the shifting sands, helping to maintain the health and structure of the complex dune systems.

How to experience

Hike into one of the accessible sand blows – Kirrar (1.9km, via Rainbow Gorge), Hammerstone (4.1km, next to Lake Wabby), or Wun’gul (5.5km).

Coastal communities

K’gari lays claim to more than 250 kilometres of pristine sandy beaches, featuring expansive stretches of oceanfront and over 40 kilometres of vividly-coloured sand cliffs, alongside impressive sand blowouts. On the western side of K’gari, visitors can explore intricate mangrove forests and long stretches of white sandy beaches.

Between July and October, Platypus Bay hosts thousands of humpback whales during their migration from the Antarctic. The bay provides a safe environment for the whales to take a break and teach their calves essential skills before continuing their journey south. The famous Tailor Run attracts fishing fanatics from July to November who camp along the beach to catch fish spawning in the surf. But don’t swim in the ocean, the currents are strong, sharks are aplenty and there are no lifeguards.

How to experience

Cruise along the 75 Mile Beach highway where you’ll most certainly see many dingoes scavenging along the shore. Grab your camera to capture the famed Maheno Shipwreck and stop to admire The Pinnacles’ coloured sands with vast dunes and natural sculptures. Continue north to the spectacular Champagne Pools with their fizzy spray that collects into the glistening rock pools. Climb the cliffs at Indian Head to witness 360-degree views.

Where to stay

Discover relaxation and adventure at Kingfisher Bay Resort and K’gari Beach Resort.

On the island’s calm western side, Kingfisher Bay Resort is K’gari’s premier eco-friendly retreat, offering diverse accommodations from hotel rooms to spacious villas and houses. Guests enjoy complimentary ranger-guided walks and talks, whale-watching cruises (July to October), and full-day 4WD tours exploring the island’s highlights. The Bush Tucker Talk & Taste experience provides a cultural immersion.

Recently upgraded, K’gari Beach Resort – formerly Eurong Beach Resort.– is now a modern four-star getaway featuring renovated hotel rooms, apartments and a beach house. Accessible only by 4WD, it provides direct access to K’gari’s World Heritage-listed landscapes, perfect for anglers and sightseers eager to roam the 75 Mile Beach highway. The resort contains essential facilities including a petrol station, general store, bakery and underbody car wash.

Related: Meet the flock stars of K’gari (Fraser Island)

The post K’gari paradise: five ecosystems, one island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

We’ve also got Mt Great Groaner in New South Wales, the Great Swamp in Victoria, the Great Basalt Wall in Queensland and the Great Dragon Reef in Tasmania. Across Australia there are more than 200 placenames that contain the descriptor.

Emeritus Professor Roly Sussex, from University of Queensland’s School of Languages and Culture, explains the etymology:

“The word is Old English, spelt the same, and has been around for more than 1000 years. It is related to the German ‘gross’, meaning large,” he says. “Use of the prefix ‘great’ is a British pattern. If you search the Gazetteer of British Place Names you will find hundreds of them.”

Actually, you will find thousands. Of the 280,000 names listed with the Gazetteer of British Place Names, 2106 contain great, representing about 0.75 per cent. With colonisation the descriptor travelled, meaning Australia’s fascination with the term is not unique. For example, the United States and Canada also have 0.05–0.07 per cent of total placenames including the word.

New Zealand bucks the trend with a mere 11 placenames – it’s home, for example, to the Great Unknown and its cousin the Little Unknown, both peaks in the Southern Alps.

David Blair is the editor of Placenames Australia, the newsletter of the Australian National Placenames Survey.

“You’ll notice that, unlike Britain, almost all [Australian greats] are natural, rather than habitation, features,” David says.

In Australia, great has been used to preface water features (including waterfalls, swamps and anabranches), topographical features (including mountains, ranges and cliffs), marine features (including sand bars, beaches and shipping channels) and, to a lesser extent, man-made features such as roads, localities and walks.

The Dutch named our big island Terra Australis, or Great Southern Land, while in A Voyage to Terra Australis Matthew Flinders describes the reefs off northern New South Wales (as Queensland was known in 1802) as the Barrier Reefs. On finding a dry sand bank in the Coral Sea (now known as Cato Reef, east of present-day Gladstone), he writes: “Some apprehensions were excited for the following night by meeting with this bank but as it was more than two degrees to the eastward of the great Barrier Reefs, we thought it unconnected with any other.”

Ernest Giles was one of many explorers who ventured overland in search of the mythical inland sea, and in his record of his travels Australia Twice Traversed he reflects on his 1875 discovery of a spring, in what we now know as Western Australia.

“Geographical features have been terribly scarce upon this expedition and this peculiar spring is the first permanent water I have found. I have ventured to dedicate it to our most gracious Queen. The desert in which I found it, and which will most probably extend to the west as far as it does to the east, I have also honoured with Her Majesty’s mighty name, calling it the Great Victoria Desert,” Giles wrote.

The Great (Australian) Bight is referenced in the 1792 journals of explorer Joseph-Antoine Raymond Bruni D’Entrecasteaux, while the Great Dividing Range was named by those at Sydney Cove who felt hemmed by the mountains to their west.

David concurs with Roly that the use of the word harks back to our English ancestry. “The Brits couldn’t believe how big everything was here when they first struck our natural phenomena,” David says. So it is the early days of European exploration that are mostly responsible for many of our greats.

The Victorian Department of Transport has gone one further and says: “The current naming rules for places in Victoria do not permit prefixes, including the word ‘great’. Geographic placenames are required to be succinct and it is expected that a unique name be applied to a place which has a strong connection to place and shared cultural history.”

So while great may continue to lose its significance as Australia moves to change many placenames back to their Indigenous origins, the term will serve to mark a place in our history.

Related: The A–Z of Aussie slang

The post What’s behind our fascination for naming places ‘great’? appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Marine biologist Jennah Tucker has an infectious passion for whales – the result, she says, of a curious childhood spent steeped in the azure waters of Broome, north-west Western Australia.

Now all grown, Jennah, like the whales she studies, migrates south each year to the tiny town of Bremer Bay, on the state’s southern coastline. Here she plies the ocean, which bubbles with marine life attracted by dramatic submarine canyons, some reaching more than 4500m in depth.

“Seasonal upwellings, which occur in the Bremer and adjacent canyons, transport nutrients to the surface [0–200m depth],” Jennah says. “This supports the growth of phytoplankton, which in turn supports zooplankton and a diversity of pelagic species including sea birds, cetaceans, sharks, squid and fishes. This provides a dense and predictable occurrence of prey for our apex predators, the orcas, which seasonally aggregate in the area to feed, mate and socialise.”

Jennah is an integral member of the family-owned Naturaliste Charters team, which operates full-day killer whale expeditions between December and April.

“We see a whole host of different wildlife while we’re out there – killer whales, long-finned pilot whales, feeding on squid and fish,” says Naturaliste Charters owner, Paul Cross. “Only a few years ago we saw our first blue whale.”

Image credits: Tourism Australia; Naturaliste Charters

“One of the things that really blows me away about Bremer Bay is witnessing a beaked whale predation. Orcas need to eat 5 per cent of their body weight each day, and seeing them in full stealth mode, they’re listening, they can hear the whales coming through the canyon systems and then they’ll spread out, five or six animals in a row, 50–60m apart, picking up the acoustics and then the hunt is on. And then there’s all the birds, eyes in the sky, on top of the whale. It’s not for everyone, seeing a pod of killer whales hunt… but it is life, it’s how they survive.”

The business’s state-of-the-art 23m catamaran, Alison Maree, also travels west to Augusta and Cape Leewuin for the northern migration season (May–August) of 35,000 humpback whales.

“What’s unique is how close they come to the coast, 50–100m off land,” Paul says. “We’re also seeing increasing number of pygmy and blue whales – in groups of up to 10. We’re not aware that it happens anywhere else on the globe.”

Image credits: Naturaliste Charters

Bubbles, rosettes and poo

A huge part of Naturaliste’s charter is research, which is where Jennah comes into her own.

In March this year, for example, the team and guests witnessed a group of orcas partake in a peculiar predation event.

“We spent most of the day observing orcas from three different groups from a distance as they embarked on long dives, lasting up to 8 minutes at a time, which is consistent with foraging behaviour,” Jennah says. “We were only capturing short glimpses of the orcas while they took a few short breaths at the surface before disappearing on another long dive.”

And then, with a huge splash on the horizon, the mood changed. The orcas took off, surging for more than 6 nautical miles and climbing from a depth of about 800m to 80m.

Image credit: Tourism Australia

“They slowed and everything went quiet on the surface for a minute. We expected to see a beaked whale surface, because they’re the most common prey targets for this population of orcas. Instead, the large tail flukes of a sperm whale emerged, and we approached to find five sperm whales, including one juvenile and four adults. The group appeared distressed and exhausted. They were huddled in a tight group, frequently respirating and raising their heads from the water.

The orcas swam tight circles around the sperm whales, who in turn formed a circle, referred to as a ‘rosette’, with their heads facing inwards and their tails oriented outwards, toward the orcas. In addition to this ‘rosette’ formation, we observed a large dark cloud that rose to the surface of the water among the sperm whales. We initially thought it was blood but on closer inspection, it turned out to be faeces.

“Shortly after this, one of the orcas began tail slapping and the other orcas moved off from the sperm whales. The orcas remained in the area for some time but kept their distance from the sperm whales, who stayed tightly huddled at the surface for over an hour.”

Image credit: Tourism Australia

Jennah says she and the team searched the area for scraps of animal tissue or an oil slick, which are generally present in the aftermath of a successful mammal predation, but couldn’t find any signs that they had successfully hunted one of the sperm whales.

Whether this attack by the orcas on the sperm whales was an attempted predation or perhaps harassment behaviour related to prey stealing or some other driver is unknown. “There are a range of strategies sperm whales have been observed using when under perceived threat, the rosette formation being a known defensive technique. Defecation in sperm whales has previously been observed in association with behaviours indicative of distress, however it is not known whether, for example, this is a stress response or an offensive technique to deter threats, such as predators.”

One for the twitchers

The Bremer Canyon is also renowned for the amazing variety and abundance of sea birds, with large numbers of shearwaters, petrels, storm-petrels and albatrosses feeding across the canyon system and along the nearby shelf edge.

“Many of these seabirds are likely attracted by the rich fish and squid stocks in the area,” Jennah says. “Squid, in particular, form a large part of many albatross and petrel diets and are often caught at night by seabirds when the squid move upwards into the surface waters. These rich, clean and protected oceanic waters attract two-thirds of the world’s albatross species regularly, including the magnificent wandering albatrosses, along with the elegant light-mantled albatrosses, and the Amsterdam albatross, one of the rarest birds on the planet!”

It is these high-prey volumes that also attract the high diversity of cetaceans including beaked whales, which make up an important part of the orca’s diet. It’s during these impressive predation events that large oily slicks, rich in nutrients and whale flesh, form on the sea surface for the seabirds to scavenge. “Watching hundreds, sometimes thousands, of shearwaters and petrels and dozens of albatrosses feeding amongst the orca on the northern flanks of the Southern Ocean is surely one of the more amazing

Image credits: Naturaliste Charters

Naturaliste Charters’ 2024 pelagic birdwatching tours, led by four expert onboard birdwatching guides, depart from Augusta (two in July and two in August) and Bremer Bay (four in December).wildlife spectacles in Australia!”

“Our seabird excursions head straight out to the deeper waters of the Bremer Canyon in hopes of finding any seabird congregations from recent orca feeding events,” Jennah says. “And while we concentrate on spotting rarer seabirds and manoeuvre the boat so eager photographers can capture those classic albatross flight shots, we’re always on the lookout for nearby cetaceans including orcas, pilot whales and sperm whales.”

Image credit: Tourism Australia

Common summer seabirds seen in large numbers include flesh-footed shearwaters, great-winged petrels and white-faced storm-petrels. These seabirds all breed on offshore islands along Australia’s southern coast, and the Bremer Canyon represents a critical feeding area for them. But the rich resources also attract wide-ranging seabirds from all points of the compass — yellow-nosed albatrosses from the southern limits of the Indian Ocean, shy albatrosses from Tasmania, black-browed albatrosses from New Zealand’s subantarctic islands, and even more sub-tropical species such as white-necked, Kermadec and Bulwer’s petrels from the warmer climes in the mid-Pacific and Indian oceans. Finally, the seabird jewel in the Bremer Canyon crown is the Barau’s petrel. “This is the only area in Australia to regularly attract this species all the way from Reunion Island, off Madagascar,” Jennah says.

Brimming with research

While guests are treated to extraordinary wildlife encounters on each voyage, Naturaliste Charters also contributes to scientific research and supports long-term conservation efforts.

Throughout the season it runs an internship program for early career marine scientists, as well as collecting photographic data that helps to identify individual orcas, their prey and other species of interest.

Image credits: Tourism Australia

“This has also allowed us to maintain an up-to-date catalogue which includes more than 150 individual orcas that have been recorded in the area to date and to improve our understanding of the group dynamics, social structure and size of this population,” Jennah says.

“Given the countless species and behaviours that we encounter on a daily basis in this remote and difficult-to-access environment, this data is also passed on to various researchers, institutions and organisations, both locally and internationally.”

When water speaks

“Over the years we’ve been able to answer a number of questions about the Bremer Canyon ecosystem, however, this has given rise to so many new questions,” Jennah says. “Probably one of the most significant involves the diet of not only the orcas but other species that aggregate in the area to hunt, including sperm whales and pilot whales.

“Given we only capture glimpses of a story as it unfolds on the surface, what happens below is speculative, meaning our days often end with a myriad of unanswered questions. While sometimes we are lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the prey species, more often we only see remnants like chunks of flesh, or oil and blood in the water. So, it seems like the natural next step to work towards gaining a better understanding of who’s eating what out there – this could better help us to understand the behaviours we are witnessing, and most importantly inform the conservation and management of these species.

Image credit: Tourism Australia

“All animals leave traces of their genetic material as they move through their environment, which can originate from skin and hair cells, mucous or faeces. This material is known as ‘environmental DNA’ (eDNA) and can tell us a lot about what is going on in a particular area. For example, water samples can be collected in the area of a predation event and processed to identify which species are present. These samples can be stored onboard and then sent off for analysis, making this a great non-invasive method that will complement our current observational data recording really nicely. It’s something that onboard passengers can also be a part of! While we still have some work ahead of us, applying for the relevant permits and developing protocols around this, we are very excited to kickstart this program and to learn more about this incredible marine ecosystem.”

Image credits: Naturaliste Charters; Tourism Australia

Naturaliste Charters is part of the Australian Wildlife Journeys collective. Find out more here.

This article is brought to you by Australian Wildlife Journeys.

The post Natural-born killers appeared first on Australian Geographic.

It’s not every day you meet a marine biologist with fascinating insights about Migaloo, the world’s legendary all-white humpback whale.

“The first photograph of Migaloo was taken through a telescope from a distance of over 5km away on 28 June 1991 [off Byron Bay],” says Jens Currie, Chief Scientist and Research Director of Pacific Whale Foundation. “It was blurry and unclear if he was all white.

“Then in 1993, our researchers encountered Migaloo in Hervey Bay, where they confirmed the whale was all white – an exceptionally rare and remarkable individual for scientific study. In 1998, we recorded the whale singing, a trait distinct to male humpback whales.”

Step aboard the purpose-built whale-watching vessel, Ocean Defender, for a three-hour whale-watching experience with Pacific Whale Foundation Eco-Adventures Australia, and you’ll be inspired by the knowledge shared with you.

Image credit: Tourism Australia

The only organisation in Hervey Bay to have been researching humpback whales for more than 40 years, Pacific Whale Foundation Australia and its scientists are responsible for a slew of firsts in the cetacean world. Pacific Whale Foundation Eco Adventure’s guides delight in sharing this knowledge with you while you watch majestic humpbacks breach, fluke slap and spin their magic in the waters of the Great Sandy Strait, nestled between the largest sand island in the world – K’gari (meaning paradise in the local Butchulla language), formerly Fraser Island – and the Fraser Coast.

Their groundbreaking research includes one of the South Pacific’s longest-running photo identification projects and the largest curated database of humpback whales in Eastern Australia, having detailed the life histories of 8000-plus individual humpbacks.

“We gather information about the population’s biology, abundance, migratory trends, recruitment rates and age-related distribution patterns,” Jens says. “Our initial work off the East Australian coast involved the collection of both fluke IDs and whale song recordings. Although we no longer gather recordings of humpback whale songs, these initial recordings were some of the first that were compared to Hawaii’s whales in an attempt to understand the global significance of songs for humpback whales.”

The foundation has also played a key role in developing whale watch tourism – of which you become a part when you join a tour; you’ll be invited to submit any photos you take for ID purposes and log sightings using their Whale and Dolphin Tracker app.

Image credits: Pacific Whale Foundation Eco-Adventures

Why migration and movement matters

While the Foundation’s research in Australia is primarily conducted in Hervey Bay, a crucial habitat for humpback whales on their annual migration to Antarctica and the world’s first Whale Heritage Site, it also examines movement and connectivity among areas in various East Australian coastal locations.

Dedicated research surveys, along with donated photos from whale watch operators, have enabled the Foundation to analyse the movement of humpback whales along their migration route.

“We’ve collected data at different locations on the migration route, for example off North Stradbroke Island in QLD and Eden, NSW, and from within the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park – the presumed breeding area for the East Australian humpback whales,” says Dr Barry McGovern, Research Associate with Pacific Whale Foundation Australia.

Image credit: Pacific Whale Foundation Eco-Adventures

“We take photographs for identification purposes and record information regarding group size and composition as well as the behaviour of the whales. Having this information from different locations allows us to document the movement of the whales and the timing of their migration but also lets us assess how the whales are using the different areas. For example, using residency patterns from repeat observations of the same individuals, Hervey Bay was recognised as a key resting area for the whales on their southerly migration, particularly the mothers and calves. One mother-calf pair we recorded in 2023 stayed in the bay for at least 20 days.”

Feeding behaviour: a moveable feast

Pacific Whale Foundation researchers were also among the first to document feeding behaviour along the migration route. Between 1995 and 2010 it reported the results of long-term observations of opportunistic humpback whale feeding behaviour off Eden.

“This area is on the migration route and humpback whales are typically thought not to feed while migrating,” says Barry. “However, there are reports from elsewhere on the East Australian migration route and around the world of humpback whales opportunistically feeding while migrating. What sets the information from Eden apart is that it appears to be the area where feeding behaviour while migrating is most prevalent. While these types of observations are interesting in their own right, they also have important implications for the management of species. If certain areas are recognised as being important for other reasons beyond being migration routes (e.g. Hervey Bay a resting area, Eden a feeding area) they may require different management strategies to ensure the conservation of the whales using the areas.”

Population hopping and globe trotting

Through photo identification, the Foundation has also documented migratory movements of individual animals across multiple populations.

“We reported on the inter-ocean movement of a humpback whale between the Pacific Ocean, east Australia, and the Indian Ocean, west Australia; which was confirmed by photo ID,” Barry says. “This report is the first and only paper that demonstrates a whale moving between these two populations; which are otherwise thought to be separate.

Image credit: Tourism Australia

“Further to this, our humpback whale photo identification catalogues have been used to highlight movements of whales across the globe. Our data has contributed to identifying the movement of different populations such as the East Australian humpback whales, those off South America and the whales that breed and give birth in Hawaii.

“This information has helped paint a clearer picture of humpback whale migration globally and has also contributed to the management of different populations. In Ecuador, for example, we were the first to document the movements of humpback whales between Ecuador and the South Sandwich Islands (heading south along South America’s coast towards Antarctica). This information was key in redefining what was known about the movement patterns of that population, which had major implications for its management.”

Piecing together the climate change puzzle

While aboard Ocean Defender, you’ll also learn about the Foundation’s research into the effects of warming oceans on humpback whales.

“Climate change is arguably the biggest issue facing all animal populations today,” Barry says. “While it is extremely difficult to assess its direct impacts on animals, our long-term photo identification data is an important resource to monitor changes in the population and this can help to highlight the impacts of climate change.

“As such, the continued population monitoring that we carry out coupled with our collaborative research on the health of the humpback whales can contribute to the growing knowledge of the impacts of climate change. The key is that researchers from different backgrounds and institutes must use the available information to try to piece the climate change puzzle together. The more information there is available, the clearer the picture will start to become of the impacts of climate change.”

Image credits: Tourism Australia

All aboard for education by appreciation

A sparkling day with whales is a gift in and of itself (and how!), guests are invited to join Pacific Whale Foundation Eco Adventures Australia’s Hervey Bay’s Ultimate Whale Watch, from 1 July to late October, with guaranteed sightings from 15 July to 9 October. “After a three-hour, small group tour on board the Ocean Defender, a 12m RIB vessel which was purpose-built for whale watching, guests return feeling inspired, energised and passionate about the importance of healthy oceans!” says Janelle Horrigan, Eco Tours Manager.

Guests are also invited to join the newly minted Hervey Bay Nature Cruise. Available from December to June, it’s a leisurely two-hour tour of the water wonderland that is the Great Sandy Strait, showcasing dolphins, dugongs, turtles and seabirds.

“Our aim is that when our guests disembark from our tours that they’ll have had a transformative experience – we call it education by appreciation,” explains Janelle.

“Information shared by our expert marine biologist guides inspires and empowers our guests to understand how impactful we can be and the ways that we, as individuals, can make a difference to help protect our marine life and contribute to healthy oceans.

“Being at water-level means the whales take centre stage with their incredible behaviours and exciting activity. And our guides are just as thrilled as our guests with every interaction. It’s a remarkable thing to share, and I guarantee you’ll be talking about it for years to come.”

Pacific Whale Foundation Eco-Adventures Australia is an Australian, wholly-owned social enterprise company. Proceeds from its eco tours support Pacific Whale Foundation Australia’s research, education and conservation projects.

Pacific Whale Foundation Eco-Adventures Australia is part of the Australian Wildlife Journeys collective. Find out more here.

This article is brought to you by Australian Wildlife Journeys.

The post Give me sun, give me sea, give me cetaceans appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Departures & Fares

Partner Voyage: 24 January 2025 (Darwin to Sorong), from $19,390pp twin share

Other departures:
11 February 2025 (Sorong to Darwin)
20 March 2025 (Sorong to Darwin)

Save $1000pp with promo code AUSGEO

Cruise and Fly Fare: Fare includes charter flight Sorong–Darwin/Darwin–Sorong. Connect with ease to the ship on this hosted 2.5-hour direct charter flight transfer from Australia.

Cruise Only: You can easily opt out of the
charter flight and we will adjust the fare. Please contactreservations.

Highlights

• Spend three days on spectacular Raja Ampat, the famous ‘Four Kings’ archipelago.
• Swim in the turquoise waters of the lagoon at Yapap, on Misool Island. 
•  Discover Wayag’s ‘gumdrop’ islands and climb to the top of Mt Pindito for incredible views. 
•  Snorkel with gentle and majestic whale sharks, the world’s largest fish, at Cenderawasih Bay.
•  Experience a traditional welcome at Banda Neira, and see the famous kora kora war canoes
  in action. 
•  Explore the ancient islands fought over by the English, Dutch and Portuguese. 
•  Learn the customs and cultures of West Papua, and experience local culture, including traditional dances, handicrafts and fresh local food. 

Your expert guide

Dr Brad Norman has dedicated his life to research, education and conservation programs focused on the world’s biggest fish – the endangered whale shark.

He currently leads a major whale shark program at Murdoch University; heads ECOCEAN Inc., Australia’s leading non-government whale shark research organisation; was the first Australian to receive the Rolex Award for Enterprise for his groundbreaking whale shark citizen-science project; and in 2019, was awarded Member of the Order of Australia (AM).

For more information head to Coral Expeditions or call 1800 079 545.

The post Travel With Us: Raja Ampat & Spice Islands appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The village has a timeless quality, which is partly due to the brief life of the original settlement. It was established and occupied by miners between 1863 and 1914. During that time, the population of the town and its surrounding hilltop “suburbs”, including Happy Go Lucky and Mormon Town, rose to more than 4000, and it was recognised as one of the richest goldfields in the country.

Walhalla is a sublime historic experience in a very beautiful setting. A wander through the village ends up being a fascinating insight into the nature of settlement and the people who decided to live – albeit for a very short time – in this isolated but picturesque environment.

Location:
Walhalla is located 183km east of Melbourne via the Princes Highway and the Moe–Walhalla Road.

Origin of Name:
Originally Stringers Creek, in 1866 the name was changed to Walhalla, after the nearby Walhalla Gold Mine. It’s thought the mine was named by manager Henry Rosales after a monument of the same name he saw on a trip to Europe. The monument was in honour of King Ludwig of Bavaria.

Visitor Information :
The Corner Stores
Corner Main and Church Hill roads

Useful Websites:
Visit Walhalla, Historic Walhalla, Visit Victoria – Walhalla

Places of interest

1. Chimney of the former Grand Junction Hotel

The Junction Hotel, built in late 1865 by John F. Williams, was renamed the Grand Junction in 1872 and became Walhalla’s only three-storey hotel. It was de-licensed in December 1913.

2. Reconstructed office of the Walhalla Chronicle

The Walhalla Chronicle, the Walhalla Goldfields’ main newspaper, was established in 1870 by James Ryan, who brought his printing press across the steep ranges from the remote Crooked River Goldfields in East Gippsland.

3. Walhalla Post & Telegraph Office

A post office was opened on Stringers Creek Goldfield on 24 August 1864. According to early statistics, 1337 items passed through the post office in the first year, but by 1868, when the post office moved to new premises, this had grown to a staggering 157,383 items.

4. Bank of Victoria

A Bank of Victoria branch opened in Walhalla in aboutJune 1865. It was the largest of Walhalla’s banks and during its operation its vault stored about 74t of gold. It moved to a permanent building in 1868.

5. Spetts Cottage

One of about a dozen original goldrush-era cottages still standing in Walhalla, Spetts Cottage was built by Swedish-born Charles Spetts and his English bride, Eleanor, in 1871. The cottage boasted one of the finest gardens in the valley.

6. Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine

This goldmine, which closed in 1914, was Victoria’s most successful and one of Australia’s richest, yielding 13.7t of gold over six years of its working lifetime. The mine, which remains largely as it was when it closed, consists of 9km of underground passages to a depth of 1000m. Tours, which each take about 50 minutes, are conducted daily.

7. Walhalla Goldfields Railway

The original Moe–Walhalla railway opened in 1910 after years of lobbying by Walhalla’s townsfolk. But this 2’6″ narrow gauge railway arrived too late and was never a success. It closed in 1944, but in 1993 a group of enthusiasts began rebuilding the most spectacular section – from Thomson River up Stringers Creek Gorge to Walhalla. Today, the railway runs every Wednesday and weekend, and during public holidays and school holidays.

8. Tramline Walkway

This scenic walk – accessible from a steep path over the road from the Old Post Office or the Band Rotunda, or from Long Tunnel Gold Mine or North Gardens Camping Area – is about halfway up the hill to the west of the town and provides excellent views of Walhalla. 

Related: When the lights came on in Walhalla

History

Before the arrival of Europeans, the district was home to the Gurnaikurnai people.

In December 1862, former convict Ned Stringer found gold in the creek that now bears his name.

In February 1863, the discovery of Cohen’s Reef led to a permanent settlement. The reef was quartz and only large mining companies had the capital to extract the gold.

In 1863 the Reefer’s Arms Hotel opened, followed by a temporary post office in 1864.

The Junction Hotel, later the Grand Junction Hotel, was built in 1865 and closed in 1913.

In 1866 the town was surveyed and its name changed from Stringers Creek to Walhalla.

In 1870 the Walhalla Chronicle and a state school opened.

By 1879 there was a regular coach service connecting the town to Moe.

In 1884 electricity arrived courtesy
of the Long Tunnel Company.

The population of Walhalla and the six mining hamlets in the immediate vicinity peaked at about 4500 in the 1880s.

Broadway actress and singer Suzanne Barrett, wife of explorer Sir Hubert Wilkins, was born in Walhalla as Susannah Evans in 1893.

By 1900, 55t of gold had been extracted from Cohen’s Reef.

The railway arrived from Moe
in 1910.

The last big mine closed in 1914.

Dismantling of the railway, including tracks and buildings, was completed by 1960.

The school closed in 1965.

Ice Road 2: Road to the Sky, starring Liam Neeson (pictured, right), is being filmed in the town in 2024. Walhalla portrays a Nepalese village.

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Walhalla, VIC appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For most of us, hot-air ballooning is a wistful meander through the clouds, punctuated by oohs and aahs. For competition balloonists, it’s a game of fierce concentration and razor-sharp precision – as much a battle of the mind as an exercise in leveraging wind. Fatigue and a lapse in focus are as likely to undo them as an unforeseen shift in the breeze. Then there’s the stuff that goes unseen. Well before any propane is lit, organisers oversee a labyrinth of behind-the-scenes operations. These include transporting 30 balloons and their baskets to a remote Australian town; negotiating with farmers whose lands may double as landing sites; forecasting conditions that will dictate the competition’s progression; making supervision arrangements for small children whose mothers will float skyward throughout the competition; and feeding everyone involved – the vast majority of whom are volunteers. With no prize money offered, it’s a passion pursuit, and one that’s stolen the hearts of about 621 competition pilots worldwide – nearly 10 per cent of them women.

Little-known sport

Outside of the amateur sport, little is known about competition ballooning. For a start, an event is not a race to a finish line. Instead, balloonists accrue points by completing tasks within time or distance limits. They’re usually given a half-hour window in which to launch, so they have the option of a staggered start.
“You ideally want to be flying in clear air,” Nicola says. “If there are other balloons around, you can quite easily have one fly underneath you and not be able to get where you want to go.”

This often happens near a land target, which is a white, 10x10m X on the ground. Balloonists drop or throw a weighted streamer as close as possible to the target, with points awarded for accuracy. Some pilots navigate solo, others fly with a co-pilot, but all have a ground crew who check coordinates, wind speed and distance, and call the readings through.

As pilots navigate land targets, the balloons look like racing yachts jostling around buoys. “There’s a bit of argy-bargy,” Nicola says, adding that those above must give way to those below. “Some people carry whistles, or you’ll hear people yelling out to let the person below know, so they don’t climb up.” Nicola doesn’t hold back pursuing targets. “I’m quite aggressive with my flying,” she says. “I know what my skill level is; if I can see an opportunity in among some other balloons to get down into an area, I am confident in my ability, and I’ll do it.”

Targets aren’t always physical. Often, they’re virtual. “Some of the flights can get quite technical; it’s a lot of plotting things on computers,” Nicola says. Invisible targets, suspended in the air, are hit using an electronic logger that records the balloon’s position and altitude. “You’ve got to fly, but also know when to press a button to drop an electronic mark,” she says. Clearly, there’s no steering wheel: the key is to travel different directions by riding winds at different altitudes. Northam’s well-suited winds are typically calm on the ground of the Avon Valley – particularly in the cool before dawn and at sunset – and faster above. In 2023 they reach up to 70km/h during the competition.

The science of wind

Understanding the wind’s whims is fundamental for every pilot. That’s where meteorologist Don Whitford comes in. At 3am – a full hour before Nicola starts her day – Don’s alarm sounds. As he rubs sleep from his eyes, the volunteer weather sleuth pops open his laptop and dives into data published by the Bureau of Meteorology, where he’s worked for 55 years. His eyes feast on synoptic charts, dew points, highs, lows and fronts, as he compares the data and assesses the conditions ahead for the day. By 3.30am, he’s in Northam’s ballooning headquarters, the Aero Club, musing over what information to include in his twice-daily briefings.

The first briefing is delivered at 5.15am. The balloonists hang on his every word and leave clutching the printed weather sheets he provides. “There’s an awful lot to look at,” says the Melbournian, who’s donated his time to ballooning events for the past three decades. “In the Bureau, we have big, triple screens with maybe four products on each screen, and another one to prepare text on,” he says. “It’s all done on the one laptop here. I’ve got windows open all over the place.”

Don’s presentation includes the latest radar and satellite imagery, as well as a weather chart and a forecast for the flying area predicting cloud base, visibility, surface winds, air pressure, and more. Final readings are collected as close to deadline as possible. “It can change from minute to minute, especially the lower 200ft of wind,” Don explains. “Temperatures might change a bit and that results in a change in wind direction at those critical lower levels – that’s called drainage. The air is like a fluid, similar to water; it flows around buildings, down hills and along creeks, and pilots can steer using that.”

The bearer of the crunch-time data is a small, battery-operated tool known as a Windsond. The device is launched skywards to gather wind and temperature calculations in real time. Don takes its final transmission – sent via automated SMS and email – just before 5am.

“When it’s high enough, a button is pressed and the device plumets to earth,” he says. “Then a team goes to the paddock and picks it up. Sometimes they’ve got to walk through swamps, or crops, or the bush to retrieve the thing.” The devices cost about $150 each, and only weigh a few grams. “It would fit inside your coffee cup,” Don says. “It’s a great invention.”

In all, Don is dedicating about 10 full days of work to this year’s competition, something he calls a “love job” for a sport he’s become passionate about. “It was the micro meteorology that got me interested to start with,” he says. “Now it’s the people. It’s such an interesting crowd.”

A blood sport for early risers

At about the time Nicola is up sipping her tea, I groan and hit the snooze button on my alarm. I’m reluctant to emerge from under the covers in my room at the Farmer’s Home Hotel in central Northam, but the promise of an extra-special hot-air balloon flight wills me from the warmth. By 5am, I’m pulling up at Windward Ballooning, where AG’s photographer Max Mason-Hubers is perkily at the ready, laden with lens bags slung over both shoulders. We, and a group of excited spectators, are joining a commercial flight to chase the competitors as they scatter like confetti into the sky.

“Ballooning turns into a blood sport when a competition is on,” says the driver of the Windward Ballooning bus, laughing, as she deposits us in a grassy paddock where the competitors and their crews are busily preparing, like ants before a storm. I sense she’s only half-joking.

At 5.40am, the field is lit up like a Christmas tree: hazard lights flash yellow from every vehicle, each one towing a trailer – mostly borrowed from local farmers – with a wicker basket on the back. Bulky balloon envelopes are unfurled as stars twinkle overhead, the half-moon glowing through a blanket of cloud. Inflation fans pop and chug like propellor aeroplanes warming up. They pump air into gaping balloon mouths held open by crew. When the balloons are nearly full, gas burners start spurting, sounding like whales puffing air through their blowholes. I notice black, party-sized helium balloons floating vulnerably through the air; they provide last-minute indications of wind direction and speed before the balloons take off. After the yellow five-minutes-to-go flag is swapped for a green one, competitors begin to levitate into the skies.

Watching the bulbs of primary colours fade silently into the wispy clouds is a wondrous, pinch-me experience. We ascend, following along behind the 30 pilots as they pass over Northam’s farmland, the green of maturing wheat contrasting with the highlighter yellow of blooming canola. We coast by a row of 16 towering grain silos and over a long line of manufactured dams that act as mirrors, reflecting low-flying balloons. The clarity of the acoustics up here is astounding – I hear sheep baa, magpies chortle and dozens of town dogs bark as though they were beside me. Coasting over the town’s historic main street grants a surreal thril

Our pilot, Dom Bareford, is a 30-year-old British national champion, who won the 2018 World Hot Air Balloon Championship held in Austria. Like many competitors, he comes from a passionate ballooning family: his father is a two-time world champion and nine-time British national champion. Dom’s here to support his 32-year-old sister, Steph Hemmings, who is competing in her first women’s world event, while on maternity leave from her job as a hospital doctor. “She fed her four-month-old baby before take-off,” Dom says, noting that Nicola Scaife was doing the same thing for her own baby at the 2018 event.

Juggling the sport with family commitments and the fragmented sleep that comes with having young children is something many women competitors talk about. “Steph’s pretty good at staying cool under pressure, but it can get tough as the week progresses and fatigue sets in, especially managing a newborn,” Dom says. “It’s a bit like batting in cricket: you’ve got to have technique and ability, but the biggest thing being tested is your decision making.” Dom says the intense pressure pilots feel is often underestimated. “It looks like a mundane sport with balloons just going up and down, but it’s very adrenaline-packed.”

Critical ground support

The rush of ballooning isn’t exclusive to those in the air. Each crisp morning during Northam’s ballooning season – from April to October – farmer Kathy Patterson stretches her limbs and wanders out to her verandah to marvel at something she’s been looking at since she was 10 years old. “How many years have I lived here, and I still stand out the front and watch them fly over?” she says, laughing. “I get excited every 1 April, then I feel sad at the end of October when they stop flying for summer.” The 430ha sheep and cropping property Kathy grew up on has been under the flight path since Northam caught the ballooning bug more than four decades ago. “For my 50th, my husband sprayed a big 50 in the crop, and he surprised me with a balloon flight over it,” she says.

Up to seven balloons at a time fly overhead on a regular basis, so when Kathy heard 30 would hit the skies for the Women’s World Championship, she was beside herself. “I was like a little kid in a candy shop. I get so excited,” she says. “It can be really magical with the mist in the valleys. We’ve got a million-dollar view.”

Kathy, her fifth-generation farmer daughter Joanne Smith, and countless others have agreed to offer their properties as spontaneous landing sites, should the balloons need to come down. It’s not ideal – crops can get damaged by baskets, and retrieval means paddock traffic, which equates to lost income – which is why volunteer farmer liaison Brendan Parker spends months visiting landowners to seek permission before the ballooning season. “I’ve grown up with balloons in the sky every winter and I love the spectacle. They take the breath away, even now,” he says. “I’d say 99.9 per cent of landowners feel the same and will happily have them launching or landing in their property.”

Pilots are well briefed that pasture paddocks, rather than crop fields, are preferred emergency landing spots. “At the pilot briefing, it’s made very clear they’re not to land in a crop unless they absolutely have to – they will be penalised,” Brendan says. “They are allowed to land with sheep in the paddock,” he adds. “We tell them to look for gates, don’t push the sheep around, try and find a farmer to say who you are as a courtesy, that sort of thing.”

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule. “The advice is given, but there’s always a chance the wind might change or there’s a powerline in the way,” Brendan says. On this point, Kathy is resolute. “If you have to do it, you have to do it,” she says. “These are all talented women, so I’m very confident.”

Each of those talented women has had to work hard to ensure they have a balloon to fly in. With competitors hailing from 13 nations, including Japan, Lithuania and the USA, arrangements for transporting gear started early.

“A lot of pilots bring their own envelopes, then borrow the basket, burner and tanks,” says Australian team manager Sean Kavanagh, whose family runs Kavanagh Balloons, the only balloon manufacturing business Down Under. They, and many Australian pilots, have loaned equipment to visitors.

“Most people will have done it for the cost of the freight to get it here,” Sean says, explaining that it costs about $1000 to send a container back and forth across the Nullarbor. “The biggest challenge we’ve had is explaining to competitors that the majority of the gear has to come from the eastern states. They’re like, ‘It’s only across one country.’ We say, ‘Well, no, to get it from Sydney to Perth, it’s about the same distance as Amsterdam to Istanbul’,” Sean says. “For a lot of people, particularly Europeans who normally just drive across a border to another country, it’s a bit of a shock.”

Competition, camaraderie and passion

It’s day five of the Women’s World Championship, flight six of seven, and as the dawn sun casts a golden glow over Northam’s farmland, a winner has emerged so decisively a name has already been called. Nicola Scaife has achieved her dream of becoming a three-time world champ. After earning points across 20 tasks, Nicola drops the winning marker and radios to her crew that they’ve done it. “It’s an incredible feeling – real intense emotion,” she says. “There’re a lot of personal things that go into these long-term goals and journeys, so it means a lot.”

Upon accepting the trophy, Nicola publicly retires from competition ballooning, the sport she’s pursued for the past decade. “It was always my intention,” she says. “Life changes, things happen, and for me it just felt like a good time. I’m not going to stop ballooning, but it’s bittersweet to have that ending.”

The early victory allows Nicola to approach the competition’s final flight in a different headspace, dropping her characteristic laser focus for the joy of just taking everything in. Fittingly, it happens at sunset. “I was standing on the launch site surrounded by all these women from all around the world,” she reflects afterwards.

“We come together with this combined passion, so I was soaking it all up with an appreciation for what we all get to do, and for each other too. It’s this fierce competition, but there’s so much camaraderie.”

Visiting Northam

Brought to you by Shire of Northam

Located in the heart of the picturesque Avon Valley, Northam is home to a diverse range of tourist and heritage attractions, including hot air ballooning, cultural experiences, wildflowers, tours & trails, historic buildings, horse racing, white swans, and much more.

Northam comes alive during the cooler months as we welcome visitors for the ballooning season and the annual Northam Motorsport Festival in April – the classic car race where spectators can witness one of only two street circuits events left in Australia.

The famous Avon Descent sets off each August from Northam and festivities begin with the Northam Bilya Festival street parade, a community event full of colour and spectacle.

When events aren’t in full swing you can stroll across the Northam Suspension Bridge – the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in Australia that spans the Avon River. Visitors can often catch a glimpse of our majestic swans in the only remaining habitat white swans breed naturally in Australia.

Nestled seamlessly over the riverbanks is Bilya Koort Boodja, Centre for Nyoongar Culture and Environmental knowledge offering an immersive, interactive journey guided by local experts.

Northam is proud of its unique culture and diversity and its history is showcased in the many heritage buildings doted through the quaint streets alongside modern murals and a plethora of fine food and dining options.

Whether for a day trip or a weekend getaway, Northam promises something special for every visitor, making the Avon Valley an ideal destination for your next adventure.

The post Floating first appeared first on Australian Geographic.

With Theroux I could dream of “little islands…each of which was a perfectly rounded piece of land, many of them just like drops of batter on a hot griddle, the ones that cook quickly”. But most of all, The Happy Isles of Oceania conjured up a picture of remoteness, of great distances from anywhere and everywhere, of the sorts of places that in our overly connected world are now almost impossible to find. To Theroux, the experience of the Pacific was “like the night sky, like outer space, and of island-hopping in that ocean being something like interplanetary travel”. 

In November 2023, I embarked with Coral Expeditions on one of their wonderful forays away from the Australian coast, this time on a voyage marketed as: “Through the Islands and Atolls of Micronesia”. Having family in Fiji, I’d travelled the less-trodden tracks across its islands many times, but Micronesia was all new to me. And what a revelation it would prove to be. 

As I flew from Sydney to Manila in the Philippines to join our ship, the Coral Adventurer, I thought back to my reading of The Happy Isles. Theroux was writing in the early 1990s, at the dawn of the age of the internet and hyperconnectivity, and I wondered now, more than a quarter of a century later, if any leg of our voyage would somehow still manage to evoke his notion of “interplanetary travel”. But as the voyage progressed, any possible disappointment was assuaged. 

Escaping the sweaty and heaving mega-city of Manila, with its press of perpetually dysfunctional traffic and 25-million-strong population, the Coral Adventurer headed first to some quieter and comparatively remote corners of the southern Philippines, where the ship’s guests enjoyed the warm embrace of locals amid dense tropical forests and the colourful delights of fringing coral reefs. Filipinos have a deserved reputation for being a happy and welcoming people, and ahead of each shore excursion the locals gathered on the beach or at a wharf, ready to shower us with handmade straw hats, fans and souvenir necklaces. An enthusiastic troupe of young dancers would usually be on hand to entertain us, but with a ghetto-blaster providing the backing track, the performers’ welcoming moves were more TikTok and YouTube than anything I’d imagined as authentically or ethnically Filipino. 

Our time in the Philippines ended on a high with a swim in the famous Sohoton Bay, Bucas Grande Island. There, trapped among smaller embayments and a cluster of forest-clad limestone islets, stingless jellyfish in their countless thousands silently pulse through a labyrinth of pellucid lagoons. Snorkelling among these graceful creatures felt weirdly like being suspended in nature’s own giant lava lamp. 

After five days in the Philippines, our vessel turned east for Palau, our first stop in Micronesia. Palau is at the westernmost end of the Caroline Islands, an archipelago of approximately 500 specks of land – much like Theroux’s firmament – strewn across more than 3500km of ocean to the north of the Equator. We could have easily flown to Palau, but the pace of our ship on a languid Pacific Ocean seemed far more appropriate, and time measured as a function of distance only heightened the sense of arrival at each destination. This was a cruise, after all, in every sense of the word. 

Two days and nights at sea behind us, we disembarked at the port of Koror, on the most populous island (also named Koror) in the nation of Palau. Yet to call any part of Palau “populous” is perhaps stretching the point. While geographically in Micronesia, Palau is an independent country, with its scatter of approximately 340 islands supporting a total population of less than 20,000 people. Not quite Vatican City proportions in the small country stakes, but not far from it. 

The nation might be small, but at one of the two excellent museums we visited, I couldn’t help but notice a photograph of Palau’s national capitol, a building that is grossly out of scale for the tiny country it serves. This sprawling Greek revival edifice is not located in Koror, but in the capital ‘city’ of Ngerulmud in the state of Melekeok – population of just 318 at the 2020 census. 

Adorned with an overblown white dome that would look more at home in Washington, DC, the capitol was completed in 2006 and cost more than US$45 million to construct. It was partly funded by a US$20-million-dollar loan from Taiwan. The style of the building, alien to a small Pacific island, was exceedingly strange to me – mad, even – but the Taiwanese connection was no surprise, given the tussle with China for influence in the region. 

Sometime between about 1500 and 1000BCE, ancestors of the present-day Palauans braved the open ocean and embarked on the great Austronesian migration through Southeast Asia and the Pacific, out of the very same island of Taiwan. Ironic, I thought, given the state of 21st-century Pacific realpolitik. 

And out in the forecourt of the Belau National Museum stands a magnificent reconstruction of a bai, a traditional steep-roofed Palauan meeting house, with its gable-ends resplendent in painted decorations of fish and animated figures from Palauan mythology. Why couldn’t Palau’s capitol reflect the rich heritage of an ancient society, I wondered, just as had occurred with Papua New Guinea’s parliament building in Port Moresby? It appeared to me, albeit as a whistlestop casual observer, that Palauan identity had been too easily traded for economic advantage.

Would such a dilution of traditional ties be seen further along our journey? I need not have worried, because extreme physical remoteness was soon to offer a rare glimpse of societies still functioning beyond the tide of modernity. 

From Palau, we headed for the snug little port of Colonia on Yap, a tight cluster of four rugged islands fringed by a reef. We were now in the Federated States of Micronesia, with Yap forming one of four states, along with the more easterly Chuuk, Pohnpei and Kosrae. Yap is famous for its stone money, a unique currency still used in important matters of traditional and ceremonial exchange.

In the village of Gael’ we wandered along an avenue of stone money dating from pre-European times when Yap was the centre of an extensive maritime empire. Carved from coralline limestone, many of these stone discs would have taken several men to lift. Each has its own acknowledged history, handed down orally to succeeding generations of Yapese. The more arduous or dramatic the story of their acquisition, the greater the agreed value of the stones. Remarkably, they were mostly quarried in Palau and transported to Yap on rafts towed behind sailing canoes. Because of their great bulk and weight, the stones are rarely moved, even as ownership changes. 

If I were to try and imagine my idea of a Pacific paradise, I think many of the atolls in the Carolines would readily fit that vision. Ifalik and Lamotrek, visited on successive days of our cruise, were postcard-perfect examples. Each was necklaced by a reef and sported countless coconut palms, luxuriant breadfruit trees and white coral sands, with jewel-like lagoons of pale jade and aquamarine.

Both support small populations of several hundred people, ranging from infants through to the elderly. The saying that it takes a village to raise a child could readily apply to these communities. Everyone appeared happy and healthy, their isolation in many ways a saving grace – or so it appeared to the casual observer. 

Ifalik lies 700km south-east of Yap, and Lamotrek roughly a further 200km on. Each atoll, and others in the Carolines, is served by small supply ships that arrive perhaps three or four times a year. And in the case of Ifalik, a tourist vessel such as the Coral Adventurer had not been seen in 12 years! 

We’d become used to warm greetings in the Philippines, but somehow the humility and unaffected charm of the people of both Ifalek and Lamotrek left a far deeper impression. On the beach they decked us with floral leis, and after a welcome from the village chief, we were treated to dance performances. Women, men and children – aged from four or five years and up – formed long and rhythmic lines as they chanted, swayed, clapped, and slapped their bodies in unison. Their skin glowed from liberal dustings of turmeric, and each dancer was adorned with woven palm necklaces, headdresses, anklets and lava-lavas from head to toe. There was not a ghetto-blaster to be heard. 

Outboard fuel is a scarce and expensive commodity on these islands, so much of the fish catch is obtained from outrigger canoes. Not only were we taken on a sailing excursion on the Lamotrek lagoon, but we were also able to watch a sure-eyed villager equipped with just an adze shaping the hull of a canoe from the single trunk of a breadfruit tree. 

Traditional medicine, food preparation and weaving displays were all on our program at these enchanted islands. In addition, we were honoured with a demonstration of celestial navigation by one of Lamotrek’s elders. Seated on the ground, one betel nut–chewing old man explained the mysteries of his venerable craft with the aid of what looked like a makeshift compass rose assembled from sticks and small lumps of coral. But his was no compass rose. This was so much more. In the simplest of terms, it was emblematic of his and his ancestors’ intimate knowledge of the stars, of the waves and tides, of the flight of birds, and the nature of clouds. It was his mind map of the seas and the firmament above. The Micronesians are fabled as the greatest of all traditional navigators. From Taiwan in ancient times, to Lamotrek in the 21st century, thousands of years of practical wisdom briefly lay at our feet. 

The jewels of Ifalik and Lamotrek were followed by a day in Chuuk (formerly Truk) Lagoon, a site known the world over as the graveyard of dozens of Japanese ships and aircraft from World War II. The scuba divers in our party reported some spectacular underwater adventures from the day at Chuuk before it was time to move further eastwards to Pohnpei and the ruins of Nan Madol.

I don’t think anyone travelling on our ship was prepared for what we were privileged to see at this UNESCO World Heritage site. Beginning in the eighth or ninth centuries, 96 islets were constructed on the south-eastern edge of Temwen Island, Pohnpei’s close neighbour. Great slabs of columnar basalt, some more than 6m long and weighing several tonnes, were quarried on the other side of Pohnpei and somehow shipped to Nan Madol, where defensive walls, temples, tombs and living quarters were constructed, all connected by a network of tidal canals. The regular hexagonal profile of the basalt slabs made them ideally stable in dry-stone wall construction, and many of the walls are still standing despite the ravages of time, water, climate and the roots of determined figs and breadfruit trees. Again, I couldn’t help thinking of the capitol in Palau, and how it might look in 12 centuries time. Not nearly as well as Nan Madol, I suspect. 

Our voyage through the Philippines and Micronesia ended with a couple of days at sea before reaching Kavieng in New Ireland, Papua New Guinea. We’d travelled for 26 days, crossed thousands of kilometres of ocean, and had peered back in time to the ancient Pacific and its mysteries. 

Best of all, we’d gained a rare glimpse of islanders living in a manner not too far removed from that of their distant ancestors, when to follow the stars and find a new home really was like interplanetary travel.

Alasdair McGregor travelled on this voyage as the Australian Geographic Society’s Host, in partnership with Coral Expeditions. All images supplied by Coral Expeditions.

The post An unexpected Pacific paradise appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The attractions of outback touring go beyond that sense of isolation and remoteness and also take in the rich ties this landscape has with all Australians, whether it is the eons-old indigenous culture, or the more recent European explorers’ history. It is this sense of retracing the steps of early explorers that is one draw for visitors. This, in turn, is further enriched by the chance to experience that ‘sense of place’ so ingrained in Indigenous culture – along with the physical reminders of their long and continued residence here, in the form of reliable waterholes, petroglyphs, etc.

The other appeal is that, rather than being ‘the same thing every day’, a week or two (or longer), exploring one or more of Australia’s outback regions really brings home how unique each of them is, in terms of wildlife, Indigenous links, terrain, camping, the driving challenges and plenty more. 

Yeah, it sounds impossibly romantic; packing the 4WD and heading to points unknown, but that notion of outback escapism needs to be, firstly, backed by a whole lot of research, planning and preparation. Once that is out of the way – and the actual pre-trip prep can be more than half the fun – is when the real adventure starts. Let’s go…

Planning sure does pay

For this writer – and I am sure for most adventurers – poring over a series of maps is an integral part of the trip planning process, regardless of your destination. With a focus on remote outback travel, having access to a number of maps – and accurate ones – is key to effective trip preparation. The reasons are many and include the obvious of seeing where your destination is, in relation to where you’re starting point, along with giving you a great overall ‘visual’ of the country you will be covering in terms of access tracks, refuelling points (whether in towns, Aboriginal communities, or likely fuel drop-off/caching points), whether there are any water sources in the region, and – of course – the total distance of the route/track you will be following. 

Large area maps are your best starting point (think: Hema’s excellent Great Desert Tracks maps), and from there you can move down in map scale and also start using digital mapping (websites and/or apps and GPS units), with ExplorOz a brilliant example.

Some, but not all, of Australia’s deserts are comprised of both national parks and Aboriginal-owned land, and one of the first checks you do need to do is that based around any essential permits you may need to traverse these lands. Most states’ national parks and the various Indigenous land councils have online permit systems that are, generally, pretty easy to access and fill in. Some permits may take longer to acquire than others, though, so bear that in mind and make sure you give the relevant authorities plenty of notice of your travel dates. By doing this it allows any communication to and from regarding your trip plans to be undertaken, thus ensuring the relevant authorities know exactly where you are – and how long for. As an example: this writer had a potential Arnhem Land trip quashed years ago after gaining approval from the Traditional Owners thanks to plenty of transparency in communication, only to have it stopped by a tie-wearing office-bound bureaucrat in Darwin. Just sayin’…

Never run dry

With the distances and remoteness of Australia’s deserts, planning for a trip here involves accounting for a number of unique factors, starting with one of the essentials: fuel usage for your vehicle – and yourselves. 

Think of some of the longer desert tracks in Oz, such as the 1619km Canning Stock Route (CSR) or the 1324km Anne Beadell Highway, and you soon realise an accurate estimate of fuel consumption is crucial to a successful and safe adventure. As most know, any vehicle will use more fuel when driven on unsealed surfaces. Add in the mechanical effort needed to push a two-tonne-plus vehicle through sand and you will need to factor in far heavier consumption than ‘normal’.

This would also be a good time to check on maps and/or any online resources as to the longest distance between re-fuelling points. As an example, the distance between fuel points on the CSR is a heady 977km, necessitating the planning of a fuel drop or two. Some travellers (mostly, but not exclusively), will have the capacity to lug the required amount of fuel – usually in jerry cans, sometimes in addition to a fitted aftermarket long-range tank – but that will depend on your vehicle’s load-carrying capacity. The temptation is to put jerrys up on the roof-rack, but the additional load up high does affect vehicle handling. You will need to check not your roof-rack load capacity, but the manufacturer’s maximum permitted load for the vehicle’s roof. You might be surprised how little that burly 4WD wagon of yours is legally allowed to carry up top. An alternative to roof-stored fuel is to fit an aftermarket rear bar that incorporates twin jerry-can holders (or, a single jerry holder and spare wheel carrier).

The other liquid essential on any desert trip is water. And by this we mean not only having enough water on-board for keeping everyone hydrated, but for other essential activities, such as cooking, washing up, personal hygiene and potentially having to top-up vehicles’ radiators. Again, distance (and amount of resupply points) plays a part in estimating how much you will need, but we’d recommend at least 20 litres per day, per person. Yep, that sounds a lot, and it soon adds up in terms of weight and eating into your vehicle’s load capacity. However, in this instance, it’s best not to quibble. A further tip that applies to both water and fuel storage is to ensure your jerry cans/containers are in excellent condition and that you don’t store all the liquid in one or two containers. If the unfortunate does happen and it springs a leak, you could lose a significant portion of your water/fuel supply – something to be avoided anywhere, but especially in arid country.

Perpetual motion

Safe outback travel means having a vehicle that is set up for the conditions and in tip-top mechanical condition. This is one of the first things that needs addressing as you plan your dream escape. A full going-over by a mechanic who specialises in outback travel prep is a must; checking for suspension (and tyre) wear and tear, as well as ensuring all the hoses and fitments in the engine bay are in robust condition and that all accessories are securely – and correctly – fitted, will mean you have already significantly reduced the chances of breaking down. The next step will be for them (and you) to draw up a list of essential spare parts that you will need to carry in the event that something does break – and this may still happen regardless of how ‘new’ the fitted parts are; the desert, in particular, is unforgiving. We’re not all accomplished bush mechanics (tip from this writer: travel with one if you can!) but more basic repairs, such as how to plug a punctured tyre (yep, a puncture-repair kit is another must-pack), should be within your skill-set if you plan on spending time in remote areas. 

One near-essential is a second spare wheel/tyre; rough tracks can be murder on even the toughest tyres. Even though tyre plugs can work miracles, if you tear a tyre sidewall, the plugs don’t work; having a second spare brings additional reassurance and ups the safety factor when you are, literally, many miles from anywhere.

Driving through desert country usually means negotiating myriad dunes and these are often taller/deeper than your vehicle. Fitment of a sand flag is non-negotiable as it assists any oncoming traffic being able to see you, thus avoiding a head-on collision. Packing specialist sand-recovery gear – on top of your normal recovery kit, which should include snatch straps, shackles, ropes, gloves, tyre levers, jack, etc. – is another must.

A set (or more) of Maxtrax offers great insurance for those driving over sandy tracks. These are very robust and also very easy to use. Plus, they don’t weigh much, offering excellent recovery bang-for-bucks. The final piece of the vehicle puzzle is an effective communication setup. Not only does a reliable UHF radio (or satphone; this is more for any emergency situation, as is a Personal Location Beacon) ensure you’re never totally stranded if the worst-case scenario eventuates; being able to call on the channel occasionally to see if there is any other traffic approaching helps reduce further the chance of a vehicle-on-vehicle incident. Speaking of which, it goes without saying that at least one, but preferably more, of your expedition crew should have the latest Remote First Aid training – and a comprehensive First Aid kit should be packed.

Outback basecamp

Nothing beats pulling up in the middle of the desert in the evening, cooking up a storm and enjoying a few cold drinks as the sun sets over the dunes. That sounds like a dream scenario but, as long as you have the required remote power requirements to keep the lights glowing and the fridge cool, you’ll get to enjoy that dream-like outback dining experience every night on your outback adventure. 

It does all come down to power. To this end, it’s worth expanding your regular off-road power options, such as a dual-battery setup or portable power pack, to include portable solar panels. These are relatively cheap, reliable and pretty much a standard inclusion on outback travel equipment lists. With the outback touring season usually the time of clear days – every day – being able to set up solar panels at camp renders the question of reliable power moot. There are myriad solar panel systems available, so you will need to research what suits your particular requirements. Also worth tackling is a course on basic auto-electrical repairs – or at least having some knowledge of how your vehicle’s auxiliary power setup works in case you have to troubleshoot power-related problems. 

Travelling with a portable fridge means you will be able to keep food fresh for a decent amount of time in the desert. Making it last longer is possible by selecting a fridge/freezer combo unit, where a portion of the fridge is a dedicated freezer. Another trick to ensure fresh grub for longer is to get your local butcher/food supplier to cryo-vac your meat. By vacuuming all the air out of the container, the use-by date of meats in particular can be extended significantly. 

Don’t forget you’re on outback time

One thing often forgotten in the dreaming, researching and final planning of the big outback adventure is just how much time it can take. Driving in sand, especially, is where you need to balance momentum and patience, and also where you need to realise it will take longer to negotiate numerous dunes than it would to traverse a long, straight outback road. 

Even though the actual distance between two points may be ‘not that long’, driving in soft sand, having to perform the occasional recovery, and stopping to take in your surrounds, all takes time – and makes for the perfect excuse not to rush. There’s no reason you can’t stay at, say, Camp 15 on the Madigan Line for more than one night (and same applies to that speccy campsite at Cape York), as you’ve spent months and lots of money planning and prepping to get yourself out to a destination few people will ever experience, so make sure you allocate enough time to soak it up properly. After all, you’ll be on ‘outback time’, in a place that has seen thousands of years of Indigenous inhabitants and a few hundred years of explorers traversing it. We’re sure it – and you – will cope with spending a little bit of time out there…

Vehicle choices

Outback travel is punishing on vehicles due to the usually rugged tracks and roads, as well as the potential for water-crossings and steep, slippery tracks that need to be negotiated carefully. This all points to a 4WD as being the only choice for those who wish to experience the more remote (and beautiful) parts of Australia.

In terms of motivation, diesel engines are still the number one choice for long-distance remote touring, due to better fuel economy than the equivalent petrol engine, and the availability of diesel in very remote areas. Then, you need to decide whether you go for a 4WD ute or a 4WD wagon, and that choice is not always straightforward…

The outback workhorse
The 4WD dual-cab ute is probably the most popular option for serious and regular outback tourers. This is due to a number of reasons, starting with the fact these utility vehicles can carry a considerably heavier load than a 4WD wagon, thanks to a ute’s rear tray. That rear tray also adds always-welcome cargo storage space for travelling families: with the simple addition of a canopy (a hard shell that covers the ute tray) you gain copious storage space – far more than you will find in a wagon. Utes are built to lug heavy loads so are considerably robust, but they are longer and there are certain sacrifices you make if you opt for one. Chief among this is, even though they have improved immensely, utes do not offer as comfortable a ride for passengers as a 4WD wagon does. This is due to the firm rear suspension (usually ‘old school’ leaf-springs) that have to be quite stiff/firm so they can cope with those heavier loads.

For families, the rear seat of a dual-cab (four-door) ute is, today, a better place to spend time in, but still not as comfortable as the second-row seating in a wagon, where most second-row seating these days can be tilted back for more comfort (a ute’s second row cannot). Still, a properly set up ute, with a spacious canopy that houses a cargo-drawer system for storing all essential gear, a fridge/freezer, auxiliary power setup, all your dusty camping gear, and further (light) gear loaded up on top on a roof-rack, makes for a formidable outback touring vehicle.

Circle the wagons
If you opt for a more comfortable 4WD wagon, you will have to work with less cargo space and a lower maximum payload figure (the legal amount of weight a vehicle can carry). But you will gain more security for your gear in the back, that aforementioned additional comfort for the kids, and a more supple ride overall, thanks to the use of coil spring suspension all-round (rather than the firmer leaf-spring rear suspension found on a ute). You will, as mentioned, have to pack more cleverly – and with that payload figure always in mind. As an example, most popular large 4WD wagons these days (think: Toyota’s LandCruiser or Prado; Ford Everest; Isuzu MU-X) have payload figures around the 600-650kg mark, compared to a ute’s 900-1000kg. Add a set of sturdy cargo-drawers, fridge/freezer, roof-rack, bull bar and driving lights, camping gear, food, water and yourselves to a 4WD wagon and you will soon be close to that maximum payload figure. (Some 4WD wagons do have higher payloads – the Land Rover Defender, at 850kg-plus, is an example.)

To ensure you don’t skimp on gear, look for lighter-weight equipment, i.e., instead of two heavy canvas swags or a big canvas touring tent, look at lightweight alternatives (hiking tents, for example). There’s a tendency to throw every accessory on a 4WD but this is often overkill. A good example is cargo drawer systems. These are very handy, but you can set up a similar storage system in the back using robust plastic boxes that are lighter – you just have to make sure it ‘works’ effectively in terms of being able to reach and unload essential camping gear quickly once you arrive at your destination.

Vehicle Essentials

For those contemplating an outback trip of, say, a couple of weeks or longer, there are a few accessories that will considerably enhance the overall experience. Here are our top five.
Fridge/freezer. These are brilliant. Running it off a portable power pack or an auxiliary battery system – or a portable solar panel setup at camp, means your food stays fresh and your drinks cold. If you can fit one in, a dual-compartment fridge and freezer unit (one compartment runs as the fridge, the other a freezer) is the best option.
All-terrain tyres. Nearly all 4WD wagons and utes come with road-biased tyres, due to the fact that even the most prolific outback travellers will still spend more time on the road. An all-terrain tyre features more robust construction and a chunkier tread pattern to ensure optimum traction on slippery or muddy surfaces. Plus, the thicker sidewalls increase protection against staking/puncturing.
Tyre repair kit. These are invaluable. Easy to use, a tyre repair kit can mean the difference between being stranded and getting back to civilisation.
Aftermarket suspension. For those who will spend considerable time on rough tracks, an aftermarket suspension setup is worth the price. These are designed specifically for rougher road surfaces and are stronger and more effective at providing a comfortable and safer ride. 
Driver training. Modern 4WDs are very easy to drive on the road – no different to a regular car or station wagon – but if you intend using them for what they are designed for, we thoroughly recommend a 4WD driver training course. You will learn just how your vehicle works off-road (and why), and also how to drive to challenging conditions.

The post Go beyond: the ultimate guide to outback travel appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Professor Tim Flannery knows a thing or two about our world. His credentials are impressive. He is an explorer, environmentalist, conservationist, mammalogist, palaeontologist, author, public scientist and 2007 Australian of the Year. Tim’s determination to learn more about our world and make an impact on it has not waned. In fact, he has been sharing his passion and knowledge with Heritage Expedition’s guests for years, leading citizen science projects that can, and do, make a difference.

Tim will be a special guest on the ‘Indonesian Explorer’ in 2024. Melanesia holds a special place in Tim’s heart, as he spent several months a year over a 20-year period doing fieldwork in its pretty, remote , hard-to-reach places. “The country became a big part of me,” he said.

Tim was able to reconnect with these islands as a special guest of Heritage Expeditions. He has been a regular guest with the company for around eight years and loves seeing how these islands have changed, or haven’t changed, over that period.

On one journey a few years ago, Flannery and his enthusiastic citizen scientists on board documented 20 mammal species on Indonesia’s Kofiau Island. “Going to that island was like filling in a huge blank. There had only been a single record of a mammal from that island up until we did that work.

“The great thing about that voyage was that we had 40 people on board. So that’s 40 pairs of eyes watching, taking notes and observing. We take them out and walk through the jungle, or go spotlighting through the mangroves and up the creeks on a Zodiac cruise at night, and every pair of eyes is valuable. Some people see animals and photograph them, others document what they might see. Once back on board, everyone contributes any photographs or observations that they’ve made and then we’ll summarise what we have found. That is what citizen science is all about. We ended up publishing a significant scientific paper on the findings at Kofiau,” he said.

“Founders Rodney and Shirley Russ have long understood the importance of biodiversity. Rodney was at the forefront of biodiversity conservation in New Zealand for many, many years. Without him, maybe we might not have species like the Kākāpō and the Black Robin. Rodney and his colleagues helped save these birds from extinction back in the ‘60s and ‘70s,” Tim concluded.

Conservation afloat

Aaron Russ, who along with his brother Nathan took over the mantle from their parents in 2018, says the unswerving dedication to conservation still holds true. “Conservation is in Heritage Expeditions’ DNA – it’s what our company was founded on and filters through every aspect of what we do today,” he said. Rodney’s work in remote wilderness areas with endangered species has informed the ethos of Heritage Expeditions, which is to share these incredible places, the wilderness and wildlife with adventurous travellers to create an army of ambassadors – an army of guests that have the opportunity to be involved in citizen science initiatives. This might be assisting Birdlife International in the Arctic, searching for the nesting sites of some of the world’s rarest and most endangered birds, or collecting air samples in Antarctica. They can also help discover new species with Tim Flannery, assist leading penguin scientists collecting samples at the world’s largest and oldest Adélie penguin colony, or record marine mammal and wildlife sightings and then share their adventures with friends, family and colleagues when they return home. It is a meaningful experience for everyone.

Making new discoveries is especially memorable for guests, and the Heritage Expedition team. Aaron said: “The New Caledonian Storm-Petrel, previously thought extinct, rediscovered on a Heritage Expeditions voyage in 2008, while the Heritage ‘Lava’ Petrel was discovered while sailing through the South Pacific in 2019. Then there were the 20 mammal species identified on Kofiau Island with Tim Flannery.”

Heritage Expeditions is also involved in the race to save the Antipodean Albatross, which only breeds on the Antipodean Islands of New Zealand and is facing extinction in less than 20 years due to the devastating impact of longline fishing.

“The ability and opportunity to be able to contribute to and/or be part of a scientific discovery is among the many reasons our guests choose to travel with us,” says Aaron. “Travelling with, and learning from, someone like Tim Flannery while making new discoveries is an incredible opportunity. This is a man Sir David Attenborough has described as being ‘in the league of the world’s all-time greatest explorers.’”

Tim, and all of Heritage Expeditions’ guides, are leaders in their fields.

Into Melanesia and beyond

The Indonesian Explorer voyage, with Tim on board, as well as multi-award-winning BBC and National Geographic wildlife filmmakers Neil Nightingale (former head of the BBC Natural History Unit) and Karen Bass, is a 19-day journey of discovery on Heritage Adventurer from Bali to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea followed by a free flight to Cairns. It will be truly spectacular, with guests able to swim with the whale sharks in Triton Bay, visit Komodo National Park and walk with Komodo dragons, discover Jacques Cousteau’s “underwater nirvana” – Wakatobi National Park – and explore the turquoise waters and rainbow corals of Raja Ampat. During the voyage guests will have the opportunity to snorkel world famous Pink Beach, see birds-of-paradise and many more endemic species, World War II relics and visit remote tribes.

From Port Moresby, the ship farewells guests not travelling back-to-back and welcomes more intrepid travellers for the 17-day ‘Discover the Secrets of Melanesia’ voyage. Sail into places few will ever see, with time-honoured traditions and costumed dancers along with exotic wildlife. Explore the culturally rich Trobriand Islands where indigenous culture has remained unchanged for countless generations. Explore the coral-fringed Louisiade Archipelago, the D’Entrecasteaux Islands, experience the biological wonderland and rare endemic species on remote Woodlark Island and spend a fascinating day exploring Bougainville Island.

The opportunity to experience these places and assist Tim Flannery with important work is a once-in-a-lifetime chance. Tim said, “I think that the thing that sets these voyages apart really is the excitement of discovery. The guests are not just coming along as we follow in the tracks of many other vessels looking at things that many people have looked at. We’ll be going to some areas that have never been visited before by a cruise vessel.

“And that is just so exciting.”

Join Professor Tim Flannery in his search for mysterious new mammals in Indonesia with Heritage Expeditions.

For more information call 1800 143 585 or email info@heritage-expeditions.com

This article is brought to you by Heritage Expeditions.

The post Heritage Expeditions: Voyages of discovery with Tim Flannery appeared first on Australian Geographic.

A piece of time-weathered art. A mask carved out of timber. A dance performed over generations, telling a story of ancient times from a proud culture. All of these are so closely intertwined with the people and places where they are found, admired and witnessed, educating us about a culture that we do not know enough about – if anything at all.

Knowledge is the key to understanding different cultures, different people, and different countries. Even in Australia’s north and beyond, there’s a lot to learn from some of the world’s oldest cultures. The peoples of the Kimberley, the Torres Strait Islands, Arnhem Land and Papua New Guinea have a lot to teach us about the way they interact with nature, how they managed the seasons, and how they have captured a record of history through art and storytelling. The best way to experience these far-flung destinations is on a small ship expedition with Coral Expeditions, an Australian-owned and operated company.

The Kimberley

The isolated and remote Kimberley has been home to Indigenous people for thousands upon thousands of years, and the depth of wisdom and love of Country is still very evident today. History is told through stories etched on rock walls, depictions of the past, wildlife, and interactions with early explorers and sea traders. This art form is revered, and the current generation works extremely hard to preserve and protect the art, sometimes through renewal.

The art is from some of the many Indigenous peoples who have lived in this exquisitely beautiful yet harsh environment. Coral Expeditions showcases several of these remote ‘galleries’, as part of their Kimberley expeditions. Journeys include visiting majestic waterfalls such as Oomari Falls – the highest in Western Australia – before visiting Vansittart Bay, which shines with Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) rock art. Dating back anywhere from 12,000 to 20,000 years, this striking form of art features human figures with headdresses, as well as decorations on arms and waists, and was created by the ancestors of the Balanggarra people. More history is found in the walls at the Wandjina galleries, with Wollaston Island one of the sites Coral Expeditions visits. Found in the traditional country of the Worrora people, this visit requires a short rock scramble to what is a large open cave site with many Wandjina images including a large red outlined figure with yellow infill. Petroglyphs can also be found here.

In addition to the art, the Kimberley expeditions are overflowing with nature’s most exhilarating moments, from Montgomery Reef to Horizontal Falls and King Cascade Falls.

Sunset drinks; Nares Point Falls, The Kimberley. Image credits: Coral Expeditions

Tiwi Islands and Arnhem Land

Around 80km north of Darwin, the Tiwi Islands delight in so many ways. There are two main islands, Bathurst and Melville, with the Tiwi people famous for their artworks, vibrant fabrics and textiles. The Tiwis are known as the ‘Island of Smiles’, with the friendly locals, stunning landscapes and thriving culture rolled up into one beautiful gift. If you want to engage with the locals, talk Aussie Rules football, they are obsessed with it.

Tiwi Islands. Image credit: Coral Expeditions

It is art that stands out on these islands, with pieces from the Tiwi Islands hanging in galleries all around the globe. You will find art everywhere on buildings, on carved burial poles, and in the art centres. Visit the Munupi Arts Centre, a local co-operative gallery in Pirlangimpi on Melville Island where you can buy art at the source, participate in workshops and view cultural performances. Tiwi Design Centre on Bathurst Island is another must, showcasing traditional and modern Tiwi art. It is one of the most artistically diverse art centres in Australia with its aim to promote, preserve and enrich Tiwi culture.

While Arnhem Land is known for its rugged beauty, it too is a great example of where performance art and co-operative galleries can preserve the culture. Elcho Island off Arnhem Land is home to Elcho Island Arts, a Yolnju-owned art centre in Galiwin’ku, an island off the north-east coast. Work from the local artists –artworks, weavings, fibre art, carvings and ceremonial poles – are exhibited worldwide including at the Louvre in Paris.

Torres Strait Islands

Torres Strait, the stretch of water between Cape York and Papua New Guinea, has almost 300 island jewels dotting its crystal-clear waters. The people of the Torres Strait Islands have a vibrant and distinct culture that is a perfect complement for the idyllic landscapes and pristine reefs. Exploring these islands by small ship with Coral Expeditions is a magical mystery tour of places you have probably never been, but the experience will be an enriching one. Coral Expeditions has been sailing in these waters for four decades and has a deep respect for the communities. Local elders will share their customs and tell the stories of this precious part of the world. Coral Expeditions will facilitate an enriching journey accompanied by local elders who will share the customs and stories of this ancient country. Dance is one of the most important cultural expressions for the Torres Strait Islanders, with each island expressing their culture uniquely through dance, music and costumes – including headdresses – as a way of maintaining the links between the material and the spirit worlds.

Image credits: Coral Expeditions

Papua New Guinea – the people of the Sepik River

Raw, spectacular and untouched by overtourism, Papua New Guinea has many treasures to uncover. Coral Expeditions has enriching adventures in Papua New Guinea with itineraries to fascinate and educate. The Sepik is Papua New Guinea’s longest river, running an impressive 1126km. It is a highway of trade and cultural exchange that has been – and still is – as important to Papua New Guinea as the Amazon and the Nile. The ship cruises downriver, meandering around its many twists and curls, offering spectacular panoramas of distant misty mountains. Guests will spot long thin dugout canoes, and scattered thatch ‘fishing’ houses, which contain locals coming out from their villages to fish, pick bananas or process sago. Once in the village of Bin, the locals, who speak the Kanda language, perform traditional dances and dramatisations that you can only see in the sacred tambaran house. Some illustrate scenes from their history, and showcase their beliefs. A visit to the local market will culminate in souvenir purchases, especially the intricate carved wooden masks that are indicative of the rich cultural heritage of this river region

Image credits: Coral Expeditions

Apart from the Sepik, Coral Expeditions’ explorers will take guests to places like Samarai Island to learn the history of Kula ring, the Trobriand Island which is known as the ‘island of love’, Tuji Ford with its dramatic cliffs where guests can learn about bush medicines, fire making, mat weaving and the importance of traditional tattooing. Buna and Sananda are significant as World War II sites, while cultural diversity can be experienced at Pelambei, Kanganaman, Mendam and Kopar villages.

Image credits: Coral Expeditions

Connect with Coral

Coral Expeditions can open up these magnificent destinations that show off the cultures and heritage of Northern Australia with adventures to the Torres Strait, Tiwi, Arnhem Land, Kimberley, and Papua New Guinea regions. Learn about traditions that have remained the same for hundreds of years, and visit remote sites that are only accessed by a lucky few. Learn about the song lines and lore, letting your respectful expert guides lead the way.

Image credit: Coral Expeditions

Experiences will be unforgettable and etched in your memory for your lifetime. Land at Pajinka on Cape York – the northernmost tip of Australia. Visit Garig Gunak Barlu National Park and Port Essington in Arnhem Land. Be enamoured by cultural artefacts at the Gab Titui Cultural Centre on Thursday Island. Interact with renowned local artists at the Buku-Larrnggay Mulka Centre in Yirrkala, an Indigenous community-controlled art centre in Northeast Arnhem Land. Explore Talbot Bay at the heart of the Buccaneer Archipelago where rocks are deemed to be two billion years old. Choose one of Coral Expeditions’ Art Themed Cruises through Cape York and Arnhem Land, with guest artists onboard provide insight and interpretation during shore excursions and host art workshops.

This article is brought to you by Coral Expeditions.

Unveiling the Indigenous Culture and Art of Australia’s Top End

To book call 1800 079 545 or +61 7 4040 9999, or visit www.coralexpeditions.com.

The post Across the Top: The living art and cultures of Northern Australia appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The term “desert” usually connotes images of dry, barren landscapes, recalling harsh and desolate wastelands. But so far these clichés don’t relate. The heavily corrugated and intermittently washed-out Anne Beadell leads through surprisingly dense vegetation, contradicting the common wisdom that deserts are characterised by a lack of plants, notably trees.

Andrew Dwyer, owner of the Diamantina Touring Company, with whom I’m travelling, has been roaming Australia’s deserts for 36 years. The GVD, named after Queen Victoria in 1875, is his favourite. “The space, the solitude, the pristine nature, the location, and the fact that it is in between the [ranges of] Central Australia to the north and the Nullarbor to the south” make the GVD a very special place for him. For this experienced desert veteran, however, the GVD does not seem like a typical desert. “It’s an arid region,” he says, adding that dictionaries define deserts as “dry and lifeless” places. “There is nothing dry and lifeless about [this],” he adds.

A desert is typically defined as an area receiving less than 250mm of rain per year. Australia’s deserts sometimes exceed this due to uneven rainfall distribution. In the GVD, the average annual rainfall is low and irregular, ranging from 200 to 250mm. Thunderstorms, mostly in summer, are relatively common with, on average, 15 to 20 per year dumping moisture onto the parched land below.

Surprising vegetation

I had my first experience of the GVD driving the Googs Track from Ceduna, on the SA coast, to the Trans-Australian Railway at Malbooma, near Tarcoola, in outback SA. The Googs Track is bulldozed straight through an undulating expanse of mallee-covered dunes that roll and heave towards the horizon.

It’s a roller-coaster at the very south-eastern extremity of the GVD that’s a popular challenge for four-wheel-drive enthusiasts. What surprises me about it is the extent of vegetation. Often described as a “sea of mallee”, this section of the GVD is densely covered in these multi-stemmed eucalypt species. There is also an abundance of wildflowers. One of the show-off flowering shrubs in the area, the grass-leaf hakea, is in full bloom. Its clusters of bright- pink flower cones distract me from the – at times challenging – track. Carpets of daisies colour the understorey.

The Googs Track brutalises this desert’s rolling dunes by cutting straight through them. In contrast, the Anne Beadell Highway follows valleys between the long rows and rarely crosses them. Both routes reveal the true nature of the GVD. It’s Australia’s largest dune field, with long drifts aligned in a west–east direction. However, in a very real sense, it’s also a green desert, although it has no major watercourses except, perhaps, the saline Ponton Creek, which is located on the GVD’s southern extremity. There’s no permanent surface water, with rock holes and claypans scarce – although soaks do hold water during wet periods.

It’s only in sections cleared by bushfires or cultural burning that this ocean of sand is revealed. Everywhere else, plants, ranging from grasses such as Eragrostis eriopoda – ornamental woollybutt – to spinifex, and from stately trees to shrubs, cover the sand. The lofty perspective of a drone reveals thetree cover, while seemingly dense from a ground perspective, is actually quite sparse, with ample space between each tree.

And yet, the botanical stars here are trees. The rare and aptly named Christmas tree mulga surprises with its tall, conifer-like shape. The desert poplar, with its lush, silvery-green foliage, is a favourite for roaming camels but seems alien among the desert vegetation. The large-fruited Ooldea mallee, with its stunning clusters of yellow flowers, appears overly flamboyant for such a dry area. The western myall, often described as a bonsai on steroids, seduces with its gnarly and photogenic shapes.

Then there is the marble gum, the signature tree of the GVD, with its sometimes stately size and ghostly mottled bark. These magnificent eucalypts often sit on the crests of dunes and become steady companions as you traverse deeper into the desert. As with the spinifex grasses, these beautiful eucalypts begin to appear about four days into our traverse. On the Coober Pedy side of the GVD there are no marble gums.

Australia’s most biodiverse desert

It’s easy to initially dismiss the GVD as monotonous, because its real beauty isn’t immediately obvious…at least to the uninitiated. If your eyes are only set to panoramic views, you might get the impression of endless sameness. To see this desert’s real nature, you need to rid yourself of preconceptions of what a desert should look like. The GVD demands a deeper connection and a closer look before it reveals itself. Far from being uniform, this desert is defined by constant changes in vegetation. For Andrew, “it’s a virtual botanical garden”. “It’s the most biodiverse desert in Australia,” he says. “The extraordinary thing about the Great Victoria Desert is that it has so many different plant colonies. You’ve got the casuarina pauper forests over limestone, you’ve got the dune communities, you’ve got mallee and you’ve got these beautiful flowering eucalypts. It’s just so diverse.”

As if to underscore Andrew’s words, the desert throws in a surprise when we encounter dunes that localised rains have turned into flowering gardens. Contrasting with the deep-red sand, the colourful bouquets on display consist of masses of striking poached-egg daisies, delicate purple parakeelyas and small yellow button daisies. Far from being a barren wasteland, the GVD is a biologically rich bioregion, with a vast array of animals and plants that have adapted to the harsh conditions. While the vegetation is there for all to see, the fauna is much more secretive. Wildlife sightings during the day are sparse. We see the occasional feral camel family group, a brown falcon with a small snake in its talons, a mob of red kangaroos in the distance and, every now and then, a thorny devil.

The real picture of what populates this arid wonderland is revealed in the sand. A multitude of prints divulge the abundance of animal species in the GVD. Visitors with the skills to interpret these animal tracks might find prints made by several species of dunnarts, mice and kangaroos.

The desert’s reptile fauna is especially diverse. The GVD is considered one of the richest areas in the country for reptiles, with approximately 90 species living among the dunes. Snake and lizard tracks are common. Every now and then, beetle tracks and prints made by birds add to the picture. Some of the more common bird species are the brown falcon, crested pigeon, ringneck and mulga parrots, fairy-wrens, and honeyeaters. Bird enthusiasts can also expect to glimpse two of Australia’s most beautiful, yet elusive, bird species here: the scarlet-chested parrot and princess parrot.

A dark history

There is, however, another side to this ecologically largely intact wilderness. Three days into our journey, we deviate from the Anne Beadell Highway and follow a short, dusty track north. It leads through magnificent stands of mature western myall. Some are in full bloom, completely covered in yellow flowers. Then the trees stop and an undulating, sparsely vegetated area opens up, with grasses and bluebush stretching to the horizon. This is Emu Field.

Located about 260km by road west of Coober Pedy, this place has a dark history. In 1953 the British detonated two atomic bombs here, Totem I and II. Two concrete plinths mark ground zero and warn of radiation. Atomic glass – molten sand transformed into glass by the immense heat of the explosion – litters the ground. Barrel-sized concrete foundations that once held up scientific instruments and other items, as well as twisted metal, are some of the very few leftovers of a once extensive infrastructure. Nearby is the large claypan that served as an airport during the test operation. We stop at Observation Point, a lookout from where British scientists observed the two explosions on the horizon.

“The great dichotomy of the GVD is you’ve got this stunning nature, and yet most of the infrastructure was built to blow things up,” Andrew says. Large sections of the GVD are classified as the Woomera Prohibited Area and, to this day, a permit is required to enter it. The Anne Beadell Highway, our pathway through this enormous desert, was in fact constructed in connection with the rocket range projects at Woomera.

Only 180km south of Emu Field, on the southern edge of the GVD and within a few kilometres of the almost treeless plains of the Nullarbor, is Maralinga, the second atomic test site within this extraordinary desert.

Robin Grant Matthews is the site manager and the only permanent occupant of Maralinga Village. “Been coming to this place since 1972,” he says. “It’s my wife’s traditional land. Now that she is sadly passed away, I’m feeling really connected to the land through her.”

Robin’s interest in history drives him to explore the test sites. “The British left so many secrets here and I try to unravel them all,” he says, admitting that many of his questions about the site will remain forever unanswered. “Maralinga always will hold those secrets,” he says. “If you find something, nine out of 10times it opens a Pandora’s box of questions.”

His wife succumbed to cancer a while back, and Robin recently survived Hodgkin’s lymphoma. “It comes from this place,” he says, recalling how for years they’d dig through the dirt here and become covered in dust. Now he always carries a radiation monitor and carefully checks everything he unearths. One of his discoveries is a series of buried steel bunkers close to ground zero, where volunteers huddled during the detonations. Another relic of the test period is the heavy lead casing of a camera used to photograph the detonations.

Related: Maralinga: ‘Field of thunder’

Seven atomic bombs were detonated in Maralinga between 1956 and 1963. Taranaki was one of these test sites and was once considered the most contaminated site on earth. The contamination, however, stemmed not from the fall-out of the bombs but from so-called minor trials, which involved testing the performance of weapon components. Among other extremely toxic substances, plutonium was blown up and spread over a large area.

From the lofty perspective of a drone, the scale of Taranaki’s scarred landscape, where some 330,000 cubic metres of plutonium-contaminated soil was scraped off and buried deep in a massive pit, becomes visible. The effects of the detonations are still visible at the blast sites – the vegetation hasn’t recovered in the intervening 70 years. The sterilised ground is still stunting plant growth.

“I really believe it was necessary in one way, because Britain wanted to get into the nuclear arms race, but they came here and took this place over,” Robin says. “They said it was supposedly an uninhabited desert. But it wasn’t. Anangu people were walking around here. It’s a really bad piece of our history.”

More surprises

After our side-trip to Emu Field, we return to the Anne Beadell Highway and are once again swallowed up by the ever-changing vegetation of the GVD. There is an acute sense of remoteness now. Left and right of the track, untouched bush stretches to the horizon, giving the GVD great ecological integrity. Mark Shephard, author of The Great Victoria Desert – no longer in print – called this desert the “hidden jewel of Australia’s outback”. Apart from the excursion to Emu Field, other attractions are sparse. Two short detours interrupt our journey west – one to the crash site of a Goldfields Air Services plane that came down in 1993, and the other to the Serpentine Lakes, a series of claypans along an ancient river course.

A visit to two waterholes, the Mulga and Djindagara rock holes, and to an area with large stone arrangements, brings the area’s history of human occupation into focus. Despite being one of the most sparsely populated areas in Australia, the GVD has long been occupied by the people of Tjuntjuntjara, known today as the Spinifex People, or Anangu.

“People were always on the move,” Andrew says. “People would journey from the Musgrave Ranges south all the way to Ooldea Soak and other water points.” These water points – rock holes containing water – were vitally important in the otherwise waterless expanse. Scattered throughout the desert, they were linked by travelling routes, especially in the eastern half of the GVD.

On the western side – within the Anangu Tjutaku Indigenous Protected Area, which represents the latest step in the Spinifex People’s articulation of their traditional and cultural connection to, and ownership of, the region – is Ilkurlka roadhouse. This is the first tiny enclave we encounter after leaving Coober Pedy. Ilkurlka is owned by the Tjuntjuntjara community, which is based 130km south of the roadhouse.

Philip Merry, of English descent, is employed by the community as the manager of this lonely post, which some consider the most remote roadhouse in Australia. “I was fortunate to be allowed to work here,” Philip says. He’s used to isolation, having spent most of his working life roaming the vast Australian interior as a mineral explorer.

The roadhouse was built in 2003, funded by money paid as compensation following the nuclear tests. “We are in the centre of culturally very sensitive Country,” Philip says. In summer, when there is less to do at the roadhouse, he gets the chance to experience the beauty of the GVD and the culture of the Spinifex People. He’s been taken around rock holes, told stories about Country and seen bushcraft in action. He considers himself a truly lucky man to be given a glimpse, every now and then, of this ancient culture. For us, just travelling through, it stays a hidden world.

About 300km west of the roadhouse and close to the western extremity of the GVD, the landscape dramatically changes. We’ve now reached breakaway country. The most striking landmark is the rock bastion of Bishop Rileys Pulpit – a freestanding mesa, or flat-topped landform – surrounded by steep rock walls. From the top, the view reveals sparse vegetation. The overgrown dunes have disappeared. So have the marble gums and spinifex grasses. The ground is rocky and barren. Although the landscape is still not entirely devoid of vegetation, some of the terms often associated with deserts now finally apply here; it seems a harsh, bleak, parched and hostile place.

Related: Australia’s 10 deserts

The post Desert delight appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Gathered around the table are Rob and Izzy, both from Adelaide and at different ends of the age spectrum; Ian and Liz, newly dating and charmingly enamoured; Jan and Kim, best friends for life from Victoria; Michael and Alanah, seasoned Blue Mountains walkers and delightfully engaging; the brilliantly dry-witted Nell, en route from “Brisvegas” to Canberra after our Tassie wander; and me.

Skilfully preparing and serving the feast are our cooks/hiking guides/first-aiders/all-round golden humans – Danah (a passionate botanist); Shawn (a skilled photographer); and Angus (what he doesn’t know, I’ll never know).

Gathered around the communal dining table – crafted from fallen timber sourced in the surrounding forest – The Breakfast Club discusses the day to come, and in the evening, the day that was. All food on the track is provided, as is bedding, so hikers need only carry their personal kit. This means lighter packs and, many would argue, a lighter load all round; Dedicated eco huts are a welcome day’s end relief. 

The mood is a little heavier than on previous mornings. We’re all a little melancholy. The days have slipped by with the kilometres and none of us are quite ready to leave the wilds and step back into our daily lives.

“Stay with the forest today,” Danah says. “Savour every moment, and don’t let your mind leap forward. Let the rest of the world wait a while longer.”

It’s sage advice, and as we wind our way from Windy Ridge Hut to Narcissus Hut (from where the Ida Clair will ferry us 17km to Cynthia Bay), the banter and chit-chat of previous days are no longer a constant. Often we stoop to examine boldly coloured fungus popping through the leaf litter, stop to listen to melodious bird calls and crane our necks to admire the stately appendages of the glorious alpine yellow gum. 

So, let’s start at the beginning…

Day 1, 7am:

The Red Feather Inn, about 12 minutes drive from downtown Launceston, is base camp for the Tasmanian Walking Company’s (TWC) Overland Track trekkers. I’d arrived mid-afternoon the day before and revelled in stretching my legs along a wending country track strewn with autumn-hued leaf fall. The thump-thump of pademelons dashing through the bramble only added to the charm.

It’s also gear-central and where I meet my fellow walkers as backpacks and wet-weather gear are handed out. Our sleeping kit and food are already on the track, in the TWC’s custom-built eco huts (five in total, strategically dotted en route).

Crinkle-cut leaves of the native beech (Nothofagus gunnii) festoon the track in autumn. Its roots, which cling to rocks and cliff tops, afford it the name “tanglefoot”; hike host and botanist Danah Leary stands, dwarfed, by King Billy pines (Athrotaxis selaginoides).

On the bus ride to the start of the walk (about two hours), Danah asks us to introduce ourselves and name our favourite plant (great fodder for a botanist). “Eucalypt” is a popular choice. When my turn comes, I pipe “the fagus”. I’ve been writing about Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park’s native beech (Nothofagus gunnii) for AG for as long as I can remember, particularly enamoured of its crinkled potato-crisp leaves, which morph to gold, orange and blazing red in the autumn, and its wily roots that creep over rocks and cling precariously to cliff tops, gaving rise to its common name, tanglefoot. “You’re in for a treat today then,” Danah says. “We’re in the heart of the season. Once we reach Crater Lake, it’ll be ablaze.”

We walk 12km, starting at Waldheim, the track’s northern head and, in typical Tassie fashion, experience sun, cloud, mizzle and then driving rain (the wet-weather gear worked a treat). We wind through buttongrass plains (hello, wombats), temperate rainforest (I spy celery top pines, sassafras and, hurrah, tanglefoot!), and up to Marions Lookout (at 1223m, the steepest part of the climb includes a chain to help you haul up). We break for lunch at Kitchen Hut (strictly day use only, and a welcome respite from the dropping temperatures) and make a dash for Barn Bluff Hut, our day’s end. While the wind and rain bluster outside, we’re treated to wine, cheese, crackers and a two-course meal, all after a hot shower. This is Overland trekking in style.

Related: Taking the hard path

Days 2–3, 7am:

Both mornings dawn cold and clear, acquiescing to broad blue skies and temps that hit the teens. The Breakfast Club meets and, while fuelling up, listens to the day’s briefing; a reel of highlight upon highlight. 

It is a steep ascent to the 1223m-high Marions Lookout.

With the peaks of Cradle Mountain and Barn Bluff behind us, we make for Mt Pelion West, taking a side track to Lake Will that is skirted by pencil pines and, further on, plunging into the icy depths of Lake Windermere. We descend through gorgeous myrtle-beech rainforest to the base of Mt Pelion West and down further to the Forth River, the Overland’s lowest point. Then we climb, gently, through thick eucalypt forest to reveal Pelion Plains. Uninterrupted views of Mt Oakleigh’s dolerite spires inspire, and an abandoned copper mine harks to bygone days. By nightfall on Day 3, we’ve our feet up, surrounded by dry sclerophyll forest at Pelion Plains Hut.

Related: Incredible archive footage shows how hiking Tasmania’s iconic Cradle Mountain has changed over last century

Day 4, 7am:

Today’s the day – 1617m to the summit of Mt Ossa, Tasmania’s highest peak. The Breakfast Club’s chatter centres on the climb: who’s in, who isn’t, who’s undecided. Shawn, Angus and Danah assure us we can do it; we’ve proven our mettle and “the views and the sense of accomplishment are spectacular”. Plus, the weather’s sublime. And so we go. 

Blue, green, gold, pastel… the Overland is a many splendid mix of alpine lakes, craggy bluffs, buttongrass plains, ancient trees and so much more. Swim in Lake Will (left), or bathe in the glow of glorious sunsets (right).

It’s a climb through ancient rainforest – tangled and gnarled, moss-covered and “fungified” – to Pelion Gap. We down our packs, cover them to keep the cheeky currawongs at bay, and hit the track to the Japanese Gardens on the southern slopes of Mt Doris. We lunch here, sitting among a symphony of tiny cushion plants and bonsaied endemic ancient pines, before crossing the southern saddle to Ossa. Following track markers, we climb some more before scrambling over massive boulders and under impressive dolerite spires to reach the mountain’s penultimate peak. From there, it’s rock-hopping to the summit, and extraordinary views over Tassie’s rooftop. I linger by a tarn, marvelling at the cotton-ball clouds reflected in its glass-like stillness, while others leap from boulder to boulder, and I find a solo spot to sit and meditate. To the west, a procession of peaks rise and fall, all the way to the sea.

Related: Tasmania’s great walks

Day 5, 7am:

There are weary limbs at Breakfast Club this morning. Yesterday’s ascent added five hours of walking (nine in total), and we arrived at Kia Ora Hut well after dark. But no-one minded much, bathing, as we went, in the glory of our climb, the pastel sunset across buttongrass plains and pandani, and, later still, a sky full of dancing Southern Lights.

“Today’s all about waterfalls and ancient forest – the King Billys here are as much as 2000 years old,” Danah says. “But my favourite part of today is our silent walk. Take your time, look up, for sure, but don’t miss the beauty at your feet.”

Dove Lake and Cradle Mountain reveal themselves.

At Du Cane Hut, built in 1910 and a remnant of the long-gone days of animal trapping, we peel off, one by one and five minutes apart.

The pickings are rich. Trees stretch and streams babble, moss runs riot over fallen trunks and fungi spring from everywhere – orange, red, green, blue, mauve, gold, white and Alice in Wonderland. Curiouser and curiouser!

Day 6, Noon:

One by one we swing our way across the suspension bridge that straddles Narcissus River, cheering each other on. It’s celebratory, of course – we’re nearing the end of one of Australia’s most iconic, and challenging, multi-day hikes – but it’s something else, too. 

I ponder this as we go, silently, towards the Ida Clair and our journey’s end. Six days ago we’d met, as strangers, over breakfast. Some 65km later, we are members of a very special club. 

Together we’ve walked, talked, swam, snored, climbed, laughed and, dare I say it, cried. Our cheers are for all of that, and, as Danah had reminded us this morning, for staying in the moment.

Liz Ginis joined this special botanical Overland Track trip courtesy of the Tasmanian Walking Company.

One last bowl of oatmeal, anyone?

Related: Climb every mountain

The post The breakfast club appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Charles Darwin could hardly believe his eyes when he visited the Galápagos Islands on HMS Beagle in 1835. Over the five weeks he explored the islands, the variety of wildlife he witnessed, lazing on land, frolicking in the sea and flitting overhead, inspired him to write the landmark book On the Origin of Species, which stunned the world in 1859.

The plant life on the island also had him completely captivated, with around 500 species of flora on the islands, approximately one third of them endemic to this precious part of the world. Every island is uniquely fascinating, each with a different ecosystem displaying its own vegetation.

Darwin’s name is not the only one that comes to mind when you think of these islands. So too does the name Lindblad Expeditions, a pioneering company that brought the first group of citizen explorers to these islands over 50 years ago. That same passion is just as evident today as it was back then, with Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic still focused on showcasing these quirky and enigmatic islands, as well as honouring Charles Darwin through their support of the Charles Darwin Foundation (CDF).

Guests explore the unique archipelago; Spotting a giant tortoise in the Galápagos highlands. Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

Conservation and Exploration

From the very beginning, strict measures have been in place to preserve the Galápagos Islands, by reducing the impact of visitors and placing a heavy emphasis on conservation. As these islands are so remote – around 965km from the Ecuadorian coastline – they hold an air of mystery, of intrigue, and stories of pirates between the 1500s to 1700s, raiding ships along the trade routes the using the islands to store their plunder make it even more alluring. Little did they know then that the islands themselves are the true treasure.

Conservation has been part of Lindblad Expeditions’ DNA since that first visit, with guests contributing $10 million to the conservation of Galápagos habitats and communities. Established in 1959, the same year that Ecuador declared this idyllic archipelago a national park, the CDF built a research station five years later, which is its main base for the important scientific research carries out. Most often associated with breeding and rearing giant tortoises, the Charles Darwin Research Station has a broad scope, from restoring degraded ecosystems to promoting sustainable agricultural practices and investigating several species of shark.

Snorkelling alongside a giant tortoise. Image credits: Lindblad Expeditions

A Family Affair

With children the eco- and conservation warriors of the future, first-hand experiences shared with parents, siblings and even grandparents are pivotal to educating them about the environment, planting the seed that will see them care about the Galápagos for many years into the future. Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic welcomes families on board, and rather than just seeing the wildlife and the ecosystems, there are many scientific activities in the National Geographic Global Explorers Program for teens and children. These programs engage young adults through hands-on activities and educate them about wildlife and the local ecosystem. This exclusive family program teaches kids about this fascinating part of the world, from “sneezing” iguanas to the incredible giant tortoises.

Young adventurers jumping from a Zodiac in the Galápagos, Ecuador; Captain and young guest on the bridge of the ship National Geographic Endeavour II examining a map. Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

Kids’ imaginations will run wild in these magical islands, as they see blue-footed boobies, penguins, sea lions and marine iguanas, just to name a few charismatic creatures. And the experiences won’t just be watching and seeing, but experiential, with hikes, kayaking, paddle boarding, and snorkelling to see what lies beneath the water’s surface – all in the capable hands of the expert expedition staff. And they are local, with the Galápagueños offering an extensive knowledge of island species and habitats. Nothing beats learning from someone with a strong connection to the region’s culture and history. There’s an element of fun, with the guides teaching kids to learn about the islands with an explorer’s mindset. Every child in the National Geographic Global Explorers program is presented with a specially designed Galápagos field notebook filled with species checklists, photos, maps and more, with kids able to record their own observations and sketches of some of the landscapes and wildlife they will come upon.

All Aboard

Exploration of the Galápagos Islands is aboard the well-equipped National Geographic Endeavour II or National Geographic Islander II, the perfect ships from which to sail around these gems – and there’s a lot to see. There is a striking array of activities for multigenerational families, couples or solo travellers who are seeking adventure in this relatively unknown destination where 97 per cent of the land is preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Young guests snorkelling in the Galápagos Islands, Ecuador. Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

The animal sightings will be a highlight, and you will need to be on your guard to try to see as many as possible. As you sail throughout the islands, be on the lookout for Blue or red footed boobies, lizards, iguanas, mockingbirds and sea lions. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards can bring you within feet of surfacing sea turtles or shark nurseries, and glass-bottom Zodiacs offer a window onto the colourful fish that swim just beneath gentle waves.

Image credits: Lindblad Expeditions.

Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic has numerous itineraries in The Galápagos, on board the National Geographic Islander II – catering for 48 guests in 26 cabins – and the newer National Geographic Endeavour II which can cater for 96 guests in 52 cabins.

With these nimble, intimately scaled expedition ships, Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic can help you and your family delve into this wild wonderland, ensuring each and every one of you takes home a sense of responsibility for this special place. After all, loving a place is the best way to ensure you will care for it.

This article is brought to you by Lindblad Expeditions. For more information call 1300 362 012 or email expeditions@adventureworld.com

The post Where nature thrives: Lindblad’s Galápagos appeared first on Australian Geographic.

This attractive National Trust-classified historic town, is located 19km south of Launceston on the South Esk River and was established in 1811. In the following decades the area was known by several names, including Collins Hill, Gordon Plains, Morven and New River, but was officially renamed Evandale in 1830. It was declared a municipality in 1865.

Historically, Evandale’s economy was based on wool, fat-lamb raising, cattle and dairy produce, and the growing of wheat, oats, barley and peas. Today, it’s a popular tourist destination, famous for hosting the internationally renowned National Penny Farthing Championship, which is held every February.

The town is best explored on a self-guided Heritage Walk, using a brochure available at the Evandale Visitor Information & History Centre. Highlights include St Andrew’s Anglican Church, the 1896 stone water tower, and the well-preserved buildings along High Street. Just a few kilometres south is the National Trust-run Clarendon, which is considered one of the finest Georgian-era mansions in the country.

Places of interest

1. Clarendon

About 10km south of Evandale stands the well-preserved Clarendon, on a 7ha estate built on the banks of the South Esk River. The three-storey mansion was built in 1838 by wealthy grazier and merchant James Cox, at an estimated cost of £20,000–£40,000. Today, Clarendon is recognised as one of Australia’s most impressive, and best-preserved, Georgian-era houses. Its combination of beautifully proportioned high-ceilinged rooms and interesting diversity of outbuildings – a dairy, butcher’s shop, bakehouse, large stable and gardener’s cottage – make it a particularly interesting and gracious building.

2. Evandale Village Fair & National Penny Farthing Championship

The Evandale Village Fair is held annually in February and features a full day of penny-farthing bicycle racing, including the National Penny Farthing Championship. This race involves involves four circuits of the village – a distance of about 1.5km.

3. Sculptures

In recent times, a number of sculptures have been placed around the town of Evandale. One of the most notable is the penny-farthing bicycle and its rider, which is known as The Time Traveller, and is located opposite the Clarendon Arms hotel. There’s also a life-sized statue of artist John Glover in Falls Park, and a statue, at 23 Russell Street, of Lieutenant Colonel Henry William ‘Harry’ Murray VC, who was reputedly the British Empire’s most highly decorated infantry soldier during World War I. The brave Colonel Murray was born near Evandale in 1880, and was nicknamed ‘Mad Harry’ for his courageous wartime feats.

4. Solomon House

Located at 1 High Street, Solomon House was built by Joseph Solomon as the “Clarendon Stores” in 1836. It is listed on the Register of the National Estate. A bakery at the rear is now Solomon Cottage, an attractive BnB.

5. St Andrew’s Uniting Church

Built in 1840, St Andrews Uniting Church boasts a classical bell tower and Doric columns. It’s located on High Street, opposite the Anglican church.

6. St Andrew’s Anglican Church

St Andrew’s Anglican Church, at 6 High Street, was consecrated in May 1872, and was the third church built on the site. According to the Australian Heritage Database, “St Andrew’s is essentially designed in the Victorian Academic Gothic style in terms of detailing and proportions, however the use of cement rendered brickwork is slightly incongruous with this style [sic].” The spire was added in 1873, funded by Tasmanian landowner John Whitehead MHA of “Winburn”, Lymington.

Evandale history

Before Europeans arrived, the area around Evandale was home to the Tyerrernotepanner people.

During tours of Van Diemen’s Land in 1811 and 1821, Governor Lachlan Macquarie travelled through the Evandale area. On his first visit he decided a military post should be built about 3km southeast of the present town, known then as Honey Suckle Bank.

Land titles were granted in 1816.

The first settlers were from the Norfolk Island penal colony, which closed in 1814 (reopened in 1825).

One of the first settlers was George Collins, and the town was briefly known as Collins Hill. One of the area’s first prominent homes, “Prosperous House” (now “Fallgrove”), was built c.1826 for Kennedy Murray, the first chief constable of Evandale.

George Collins opened Evandale’s first pub in 1829.

In 1838 “Clarendon” was completed for James Cox, son of William Cox, who built the first road across the Blue Mountains in NSW.

In the early 1840s, convict John ‘Red’ Kelly (pictured, right) was transported and served his sentence in Evandale after stealing two pigs in Ireland. His sons, Ned and Dan, achieved infamy as bushrangers.

The village was officially recognised as Evandale in 1830.

The railway connected Evandale and Hobart in 1876.

The post office, now a private residence, was completed in 1888.

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Image credit: Wikicommons

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Evandale, TAS appeared first on Australian Geographic.

This journey began as an opportunity for me to work through some of my harder-to-tick-off bucket list items – swimming with whale sharks, walking with Komodo dragons, snorkelling Pink Beach, observing the famed lekking of birds of paradise, and exploring the insta-worthy blue waters of Raja Ampat.

But Heritage Expedition’s 19-day Indonesian Explorer voyage quickly became a life-changing re-education about the natural world. Spanning both the Wallace and Weber lines that mark the distribution of species between Australia, Papua New Guinea and Southeast Asia, and bisecting a major juncture of Earth’s tectonic plates, Indonesia is home to two biodiversity hotspots and staggering numbers of flora and fauna species scattered across 18,000 paradisiacal islands and islets. These remote wildlife outposts, only accessible by ship, continue to astound science with discoveries – making them the perfect destination for expedition cruising.

Image credit: Steven Bradley

Boarding our nimble, purpose-built expedition ship Heritage Adventure, it was immediately apparent that we were about to embark on an authentic exploration of Indonesia’s remote and little-known tropical islands. The ship’s refined elegance and expedition cred lived up to her title of “The Grande Dame of Expedition Cruising”.

Meeting our expedition team was another highlight. We were entertained and educated by a series of lectures and field explorations led by a roll-call of industry-leading guides, scientists, conservationists and filmmakers.

Among them were: award-winning BBC wildlife documentary filmmakers Neil Nightingale and Karen Bass, a power couple who have worked alongside David Attenborough (and are together as a result of his matchmaking prowess); marine biologists, including whale shark and manta ray researcher Abraham Sianipar and Rolex Scholar Courtney Rayes; New Zealand conservation legends Rod Morris and Lou Sanson; Australia’s own culturalist extraordinaire Suzanne Noakes; and Professor Tim Flannery, acclaimed author, scientist and explorer and Heritage Expeditions regular.

Leading the charge was biologist Aaron Russ, our expedition leader. Aaron has more than 100 expeditions under his belt, having grown up in the family business. His parents, Rodney and Shirley Russ, founded Heritage Expeditions 40 years ago, and today Aaron and his brother, Nathan, proudly continue their legacy.

What followed was an unforgettable tropical island–hopping voyage of discovery, where authentic, responsible travel met bucket list experiences. We explored islands steeped in history, encountered beautiful and unique wildife, and met communities with rich cultural heritage. Our visits also supported local conservation initiatives and remote indigenous communities.

Image credit: Steven Bradley

Wildlife encounters were endless, breathcatching and inspiring. On Komodo Island – Indonesia’s version of Jurassic Park – we walked among Komodo dragons and watched them bask in the sun. The giant lizards lumbered on powerful claws across the dusty earth, their forked tongues flicking, and heavy-set tails swaying in their wake.

We hiked through the moonlit tropical rainforest on Waigeo Island and were rewarded by the playful courtship displays of brilliantly coloured Wilson’s and red birds of paradise. On Sumbawa we watched traditional water buffalo racing – who knew they could move so fast?

Image credit: Steven Bradley

But it was the joyous underwater encounters with bus-sized whale sharks that were seared in our memories and hearts. Dwarfed by these gentle giants, we watched in awe as they glided among us, their enormous mouths agape. We were mesmerised by their inquisitive eyes and the constellations of white spots on their backs.

When it comes to reef-fringed islands, gin-clear turquoise waters and powdery white-sand
beaches complete with palms, Indonesia is the dictionary definition of paradise. With more than 18,000 islands and islets to choose from, our explorations included a mix of iconic destinations alongside others that were wild, remote and rarely visited.

Image credits: Steven Bradley

Our Zodiacs wove through ancient coral reefs, while above us loomed the sheer, jungle-capped cliffs of Wayag Island, its limestone hills resplendent with birdlife and wild orchids. We dug our toes into lolly-pink sands at Komodo Island’s Pink Beach, and explored our own private paradise on the tiny island of Rusbasbedas. On Misool we saw 5000-year-old ancient rock art painted in the stark karst landscape, and charted our course with envy-inducing social media posts.

What lies beneath Indonesia’s pellucid waters easily matches the picture-perfect paradise above. Snorkelling here felt like swimming in an aquarium. We marvelled at its expansive coral gardens, waving anemones and neon-tinged fish, and watched in awe as giant clams and crustaceans disappeared into inky depths.

Image credit: Steven Bradley

At Satonda Island we drifted beside hawksbill turtles, met a manta ray at Pink Beach, and topped it all off with afternoons snorkelling in the pristine waters of Wakatobi National Marine Park, off Wangiwangi Island – a biodiverse region that oceanographer Jacques Cousteau rightfully described as an “underwater nirvana”.

Departures and Fares

Indonesian Explorer
19 days, 13–31 October 2024
Bali, Indonesia, to Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea, with FREE FLIGHTS to Cairns.

From $22,650pp twin share, Deck 4
Superior Stateroom

heritage-expeditions.com

For more information call 1800 143 585 or email info@heritage-expeditions.com

This article is brought to you by Heritage Expeditions.

The post Cruising Indonesia’s last paradise appeared first on Australian Geographic.

When the gold rush careened into what we now call the Bathurst region in 1851, people came from near and far to try and find gold and make their fortune. With the miners came the need for pubs, shops, banks and general infrastructure. Several small villages sprang up in the region to support the growing population of miners and their families, including Hill End, Sofala, Rockley and Perthville. When the gold ran out, the population of these communities dropped, but the legacy of the gold rush is still very much evident in the region. Go back in time by visiting historical sites, museums and participating in cultural events that commemorate this important period in Australian history – events like the 2024 Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail.

Strike it rich in Hill End

Located 75 minutes north of the Bathurst city centre, Hill End has the honour of being the site of the largest single mass of gold ever found. Once the news was out that the precious metal had been found, thousands upon thousands of miners came here to try their luck around the Turon River, north of Bathurst. During the quartz reef boom in 1872, on another normal night at the Star of Hope mine, rock was cleared by a dynamite blast. What it revealed was the Holtermann-Beyers Nugget, the single-largest specimen of gold ever found. There would have been exuberant celebrations at one of the hotels – there were 28 on them at Hill End at one time. Perhaps it was the Royal Hotel, which opened in 1872 and is still operating.

Hill End, New South Wales Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

Hill End is now a Heritage-listed historic site and is managed by National Parks NSW. When you visit Bathurst for the 2024 Heritage Trades Trail, consider staying an extra few days to explore Hill End. Accommodation is available in settlers cottages that have been lovingly restored, and there is plenty to do. Visit the History Hill Museum with its gold rush artefacts, check out the original diggings, or try your hand at gold panning. If you haven’t tried before, take a tour with Jhob Drinkwater, a local gold and town history tour guide. He’ll take you to the Tambaroora Fossicking Field and show you how it’s done and how to identify gold. You can even visit a mine to see what it would have been like for the miners, with Son of Hope and Bald Hill both excellent options. The Great Western Store, the General Store and Northeys Store are all worth a visit, as is the new Heritage Centre, next to the General Store Cafe. Check each place for opening hours before you go. Do the walk around the town – there is an audio tour available at the Bathurst Step Beyond app.

Panning for gold in Hill End, New South Wales. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

The rise and fall of Sofala

Sofala is a sleepy village adjacent to the gurgling Turon River. Around 200 people live here, but turn back the clock to the 1850s and it was a happening place. Sofala was built in 1851 after gold was discovered. It is the oldest surviving gold rush town in Australia, and has quite the story to tell.

About 40 minutes’ drive from Bathurst, Sofala grew from nothing once the news about Edward Hargraves finding gold in 1851 spread like wildfire. The population grew to 26,000 people that same year, with miners panning the waters of the river for the rich alluvial gold. According to local historical sources, an experienced panner in the early days of the Turon River Gold Rush could bring in around 1.4kg of gold a day, garnering around $100,000 in more recent markets.”

Sofala, New South Wales. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

The success of commercial mining in the area peaked and waned over the decades, finally grinding to a halt in 1948. Revisit the mining days by doing the historic walking tour around these pretty streets flanked by gold rush-era buildings. Artist Russell Drysdale liked the town’s streetscape so much he painted it in 1947, in his work simply called Sofala, which is hanging in the Art Gallery of New South Wales. Stroll by the Royal Hotel, across the Sofala Footbridge, walk along the Turon River and find remnants from the mining days, including gravestones, diggings and remains of a Chinese miner settlement.

You can pan for gold on a tour, or try to find something else in the Turon – fish. Nearby Wattle Flat, another small mining community, offers the Buurree Walking Trail, a 4.9km trail which boasts scenic views of Sofala as well as birdwatching opportunities.

For a fun weekend, the Rebellion on the Turon is a reenactment of the 1853 Turon Rebellion and is a weekend that comes with cannons, shootings and duels, floggings, market stalls, exhibitions, Cobb and Co coach rides and more. Keep your wallet hidden, as ‘bushrangers’ might hold you up for your gold (coins).

Sofala, New South Wales. Image credit: David Roma

Other gold rush gems

A National Trust Historic Village, Rockley is 30 minutes from Bathurst and has 21 Heritage-listed buildings deemed to be of national significance. A land grant was awarded to William Lawson (of Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth fame) in 1818, but it was named Rockley by a Captain Steel who received a grant here in 1829. Copper was discovered in the region in 1847, then gold blew onto the scene. In the following decade, thousands of gold miners moved to Rockley as they worked the Isabella, Abercrombie and Campbells Rivers in the hopes of funding their futures.

Now with a population of around 180, Rockley is an undiscovered gem and is well worth a visit with many fascinating places. The Rockley Mill and Stables Museum is one. Built as the Stangers Flour Mill in 1862, you can learn about the rich history of the area in this three-storey building. Browse around Georgian and Victorian era mill machinery, read old police records and marvel at the period clothing of the day. The former post office, the Stables and Coachhouse, the police station and the Club House Hotel are just some of the interesting buildings in town. After you have explored the town, enjoy a drink or lunch at the Rockley Pub which has undergone a renaissance under renowned chef Matt Moran. The two-storey building now offers a new Moran-style pub menu and drink list in what is a classic country hotel.

Rockley Mill & Stables Museum, Rockley. Image credits: Bathurst Tourism

Rockley is host to several cultural events throughout the year including artisans markets, the Rockley rodeo and the Rockley Gardens and Art Festival, which raises money to maintain the historic School of Art building.

Around 15 minutes from Bathurst, Perthville, known for its autumn colours, has one extremely notable place to visit. St Joseph’s Convent was established here in 1872 and The St Joseph’s Heritage and Conference Centre tells the story of the convent and its famous founders – Saint Mary MacKillop and Father Julian Tenison Woods. Learn about the Sisters of Saint Joseph and their ongoing work through storyboards and displays showcasing a collection of Josephite memorabilia, Saint Mary MacKillop artefacts, costumes and books. You can listen to an audio tour as you stroll around, available through the Bathurst Step Beyond app.

The 2024 Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail

Join in the celebration honouring the vibrant history of Bathurst, paying tribute to the trades and traditions that have shaped the region. Held at Bathurst Showground, this event shines the spotlight on rare and forgotten crafts from Australia’s oldest inland European settlement.

Step inside the pavilions to marvel at exquisite craftwork and venture outdoors to explore the agricultural and heavy industry trades that define the region’s heritage. From traditional Indigenous tool making to the artistry of blacksmithing, saddlery, and whip cracking, there’s a wealth of skills on display. Delve into the world of glass artistry, lace making, carpentry, and more, including the fascinating crafts of cigar box guitar and violin making.

Experience the nostalgia of a ride aboard an authentic Cobb & Co Coach, and embark on a journey through Bathurst’s rich heritage with a complimentary hop-on, hop-off bus tour, visiting the city’s most significant museums and historic houses.

Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

With an abundance of activities to enjoy, from demonstrations to interactive experiences, you’ll want to spend both days immersing yourself in the Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail to uncover the places and stories behind this burgeoning region.

The Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail is on 16-17 March at the Bathurst Showground. Visit the website here for all of the details.

This article is brought to you by Bathurst Regional Council.

The post Golden days in Bathurst appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Once one of the world’s richest goldmining towns, Walhalla’s fortunes have been boom-and-bust since a prospector named Ned Stringer discovered gold in this valley on 26 December 1862. The new settlement that arose, as miners flocked to share in the riches, was first called Stringers Creek. It was renamed Walhalla after an earlier mine, which itself took the name – meaning ‘valley of the gods’ – from Norse mythology.

Now, more than a quarter of a century after electricity finally reached the town, Walhalla is part of a bid by a group of Victorian goldrush-era towns to be granted UNESCO World Heritage status, in recognition of their important place in Australia’s history.

Every night Walhalla’s landmark brass band rotunda is illuminated.

By the late 1800s, Walhalla had a population of about 3500 people, along with 10 hotels, three breweries and seven churches. Over a 52-year period, more than 70t of gold was extracted from the valley, with most of the wealth destined for Melbourne where the mine shareholders lived.

“If you want to see where the money went, stand on the corner of Spring Street and Collins Street in Melbourne,” says Michael Leaney, who rebuilt Walhalla’s Star Hotel in 1999, providing the catalyst for the town’s connection to mains power and its resurgence of fortunes – albeit on a lesser scale than in its early days.

The original Star Hotel was the terminus for the Cobb & Co coach that serviced Walhalla until 1910, when the railway finally came to town. However, the railway arrived somewhat too late for Walhalla because, by 1915, the gold had become difficult to extract and the mines closed. Ironically, the rail line provided an easy way to remove most of the mining machinery and many of the town’s buildings. Walhalla was virtually abandoned, leaving only remnants of its glory days. Today it is home to fewer than 20 people.

When Michael bought a ‘weekender’ house in Walhalla in 1991, the land on which his hotel now stands was a parking lot, the original Star having burned down in 1951. “My friends in Melbourne thought I was crazy,” he says. “There was no electricity, nowhere to eat, no heating – in winter, icicles formed on everything and it wasn’t pleasant. It was like glorified camping. Day visitors would arrive and wander around for a few hours, but there was nowhere to stay.”

With a background in tourism and hospitality management, he saw the opportunity to “get in on the ground floor” and build a hotel. “I also had a strong interest in history; my mother was the president of the Doncaster & Templestowe Historical Society for many years and as a child, at the weekends we wouldn’t go to the football, we’d go to visit historic houses,” he says with a laugh.

Walhalla was once one of the world’s richest goldmining towns.

Electricity was essential, of course, and Walhalla became the last town in Australia to be switched on to a reticulated electricity supply, on 21 December 1998. The rebuilt Star Hotel was the first building in Walhalla to be connected, opening its doors for business on 11 March 1999. Other buildings in the town were connected over the next two years, as the supply was gradually extended.

The facade of the hotel is a replica of the original, recreated with the help of a trove of historic photographs – including a collection of about 1000 glass plate negatives from the studio of the Lee brothers, who documented life in the once bustling town.

“There were lots of photos of the hotel which we were able to use to count the weatherboards and the bricks to recreate it,” says Michael. “It was simple and plain; Walhalla never progressed beyond a frontier town because the shareholders didn’t live here and they didn’t invest in grand Victorian mansions here. The only grand element of the hotel was the iron lacework on the verandas – we took the old photographs to the Anderson & Ritchie foundry in Melbourne, they looked in the catalogue, went out the back and pulled out the mould. It was amazing.”

The Star Hotel – then and now.

Walhalla hasn’t looked back. Located in the Great Dividing Range, about 4km upstream from Stringers Creek’s junction with the Thomson River, it is a popular stopover on the Sydney–Melbourne coastal drive. The Australian Alps Walking Track, which runs 650km between Walhalla and Canberra, is popular with walkers. In summer, says Michael, about 2000 visitors a day, mostly day-trippers and weekenders from Melbourne, 180km away, arrive to explore its attractions.

One of the best places to start in understanding the Walhalla story is on a tour of the Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine, one of the valley’s richest, yielding 13.7t of gold. I walk from the hotel to the mine, just 200m from the centre of the village, taking time to admire the leafy single street lined with timber cottages.

As we walk between the rail tracks inside the mine, ducking our heads to avoid beams, our guide Hayley explains that the miners were, on average, less than 165cm tall. Two hundred men worked this mine, in shifts of 50, labouring for eight hours a day, six days a week, using pickaxes, hammers and gunpowder to extract the gold. “They were digging 1.5m of rock per week, with horses carting out the rock, working by candlelight,” Hayley tells our small group. “The candles were made of animal fat, so you can imagine the smell.”

The Long Tunnel Extended Gold Mine was one of the valley’s richest.

From the mine, I take the old Tramline Walkway along the ridge above the village, which joins the start of the Australian Alpine Walking Track. On the other side of the valley, steep steps lead to the top of ‘Recreation Hill’. There wasn’t much flat ground in Walhalla, so the enterprising miners flattened the top of the mountain to create a sports field that famously hosted the 1907 cricket match between the Melbourne Cricket Club, captained by Warwick Armstrong, and a local team. Armstrong went on to captain the Australian cricket team that beat England 5:0 in the Ashes in 1921, and his visit to Walhalla has never been forgotten.

For walkers with limited time, it’s possible to undertake short sections of the alpine track either from Walhalla or from the Mt Erica Carpark entrance to Baw Baw National Park. One of the most popular walks is to the aptly named Mushroom Rocks, 3km walk to a maze of giant granite tors that takes about two hours, or further on to Mt Erica, through stands of mountain ash, silver wattle and snowgums.

Back on the main street, a heritage trail marks 30 places of interest, including the historic cemetery clinging to the hillside, the Walhalla Chronicle newspaper office and the Fire Station Museum, which straddles Stringers Creek. Walhalla’s recent history has included major threats from bushfires, although the village itself has escaped significant damage. A new Country Fire Authority fire station opened in Walhalla a decade ago, in recognition of the danger. One impact of the 2006/07 fires was the destruction of a rail bridge that served the Walhalla Goldfields Railway, but this was quickly rebuilt. The narrow-gauge train is a popular attraction that has been running down Stringers Creek Gorge since 1993.

Today, Walhalla retains some of its gold-rush era buildings. Many are now shops and cafes.

The UNESCO World Heritage listing bid for Australia’s Victorian Goldfields is a collaboration between 15 shire and city councils throughout the state, Michael says. He was elected to Baw Baw Shire Council in 2016 and in 2021–22, he served as the shire’s first mayor from Walhalla since 1918.

He says achieving World Heritage status would recognise the social and economic impact that the 19th-century Victorian goldfields had, not only on Victoria, but on Australia and the world.

“Around the world, the goldrushes of the 1840s and ’50s led to massive migration, industrialisation and economic development and Victoria’s goldrush was the biggest in the world,” he says. “And if it wasn’t for Walhalla, the colony of Victoria would have gone bankrupt in the early 1890s. There was a land boom, then a collapse and Victoria was on the verge of bankruptcy but the yields from the Long Tunnel and Long Tunnel Extension Gold Mine were at their height at the time and saved the colony. During the late 19th century, this was a hugely important place.”

Although the bid process is in its infancy, still to be endorsed by the Victorian and federal governments before being presented to UNESCO – a process that may take five or more years – Michael is hopeful it will ensure the future of towns like Walhalla.

At the end of the day, I witness the golden floodlights illuminate the Mountaineer Brass Band rotunda – built in 1896 – before retiring to my room. All the Star Hotel rooms are named for the mines that still pock the surrounding hillsides: Kitty Darling, Fear Not, Black Diamond, Grey Horse, Happy Go Lucky, Worlds Fair, Rising Sun, Lady Brassey, Wild Cat, Homeward Bound, Tubal Cain and Wealth of Nations. Each name evokes the spirit of the times that gave birth to this small piece of Victoria’s history.

All photographs supplied by Walhalla & Mountain Rivers Tourism.

The post When the lights came on in Walhalla appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Nothing shouts ‘road trip’ more than singing along to your favourite tunes as you head down the highway in your rig. This one is a classic: “Ridin’ down the highway, goin’ to a show, stop in all the byways, playin’ rock ‘n’ roll…” It’s a long way to the you-know-what.

Stopping in the byways is the best thing about a driving holiday. The tiny blink-and-you’ll-miss-it-towns, the truck stops, the sleepy villages, the pubs. Nothing beats a country pub, and North Queensland has a bunch of ‘em –, full of stories, chockers with characters and good cheer, along with good beer of course. And no matter whether you are a grey nomad, adventure lover, beach bum or a backpacker, a cold one after a dusty drive tastes heavenly. 

So if you’ve got your gear ready – your caravan, camper trailer, campervan, motorhome or just your tent or new-fangled swag – start planning your next road trip exploring the wonders of North Queensland. Good on ya, mates! 

Tropical North Queensland

All roads lead to Cairns – well, these four beaut drives do. With a kaleidoscope of colours from that blinding blue of the sea to the velvety green of the rainforest and the ochre red of the outback, nature is front and centre on these itineraries.

The Savannah Way is a true-blue humdinger of a drive, stretching through three Aussie states and territories, on a mind-blowing 3699km of outback. Don’t panic if you don’t want to do it all, just do the best bit – the Queensland section! This part of this legendary road bumps you from Hell’s Gate to Cairns, and there are plenty of bonza places to check out, including Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park, and Riversleigh Fossil Fields.

Clockwise from left – Driving through the ruggered landscape in Boodjamulla National Park; Driving along the Savannah Way; Kayaking through the gorge in Boodjamulla National Park. Image credits: Tourism and Events Queensland; Tourism Tropical North Queensland

The Great Green Way runs between Townsville to Cairns, and the name is spot on because you’ll go through 12 national parks along the way. Think waterfalls, magical waterholes and cool seaside towns. Oh, and get a selfie at the giant gumboot – complete with frog – in Tully. We do love our big things in ‘Straya, don’t we!

Babinda Boulders, a must-see stop on the Great Green Way road trip. Image credit: Tourism Tropical North Queensland

Exploring Cape York and the Daintree are true bucket-list adventures, absolute gold for those who like to drive to the back of beyond and then some. Cape York is normally accessible through winter and spring, but it is so popular you’ll often need to book at least 6 months ahead. While the weather had been a little rough last year, parts of the Daintree are back up and running, opening up the wondrous Heritage-Listed Rainforest with its ancient ferns and tangled canopies, fringed by the Great Barrier Reef. You can check the latest travel advice here. The Great Barrier Reef Drive is AOK from Cairns to Port Douglas, with those drop-dead gorgeous ocean views woven into canopies of green just as divine as ever. Chill out in Palm Cove, and linger longer in Port Douglas where you can get snappy on a croc tour, or get wet out on the Great Barrier Reef.

Enjoy the spectacular coastline by car on the way to Port Douglas and the Daintree Rainforest. Image credits: Tourism and Events Queensland

Outback Queensland

You won’t have a more Aussie experience than on one of four brilliant road trip options in Outback Queensland. Even the names are awesome: Overlanders Way, The Matilda Way, Dinos, Crocs and Gold, and the Australian Dinosaur Trail. The Overlanders Way is a tad over 1,000 clicks and takes you from Townsville’s idyllic beaches to Camooweal… without leaving the bitumen! Say g’day to locals in cracker towns like Charters Towers, Julia Creek, Cloncurry and Mount Isa, with a whole rodeo of dinosaurs, fossils, and cowboys along the way. Don’t forget your Akubra so you look the part!

Clockwise from left: Wiliyan-ngurru National Park (Camooweal Caves National Park); Directional signage for Overlander’s and Matilda Way; Julia Creek from above. Image credits: Tourism and Events Queensland

The Matilda Way is another fully-sealed highway, stretching from Cunnamulla on the New South Wales border to Karumba, on the Gulf of Carpentaria – a hefty distance of 1812 km. Go stargazing in Charleville, watch the chicken racing at the Royal Carrangarra Hotel, head to the Black Stump at Blackall, marvel at ‘Machinery Mile’ in Ilfracombe, get your pioneering hat on in Longreach and ‘Waltz Matilda’ in Winton.

Clockwise from left: Exterior of the historic Royal Carrangarra Hotel; Stargazing at the Cosmos Centre in Charleville. Image credits: Tourism and Events Queensland

If you know your Stegosaurus from your T-Rex, venture out along the Australian Dinosaur Trail, which is a 735km doddle in prime fossil country encompassing Richmond, Winton and Hughenden. In Winton, visit the Australian Age of Dinosaurs and learn about the ‘dinosaur stampede’ at the Lark Quarry Conservation Park. Say g’day to Hughie, a Muttaburrasaurus, at the Flinders Discovery Centre in Hughenden, and soak up some amazing country by camping at Porcupine Gorge National Park.

Australian Age of Dinosaurs, Winton. Image credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

For a great combination, Dinos, Crocs and Gold is a round trip from Townsville covering an epic 2934km. Spot freshwater crocodiles on a Cobbold Gorge cruise, be totally wowed at the Undara Experience, and head from Hughenden to Richmond and Kronosaurus Korner – Australia’s premier marine fossil museum.

Guests onboard the Cobbold Gorge cruise; Kronosauras Korner, Richmond. Image credits: Tourism and Events Queensland

Townsville North Queensland

Get some Ayr (see what I did there) on one of these beaut drives in the Townsville region. Check out the North Queensland Highlights route through the Burdekin from Ayr to Ingham. It’s sweet in more ways than one, with the Burdekin Art Trail, a shipwreck to scuba dive on, the gorgeous Magnetic Island to explore, a host of critter experiences in Townsville, and for something different, check out the largest herd of Texas Longhorn cattle in Australia, at Charters Towers.

Ayr is also the starting point for the North Queensland Island Hopper experience. An hour’s drive north in Townsville, you can embrace your inner aquaman at Magnetic Island. Test out each of its 23 beaches and see koalas in the wild. Flit away from Maggie on a helicopter to Orpheus Island, then head to Hinchinbrook, after a sojourn back in terrific Townsville.

Clockwise from left: Nelly Bay, Magnetic Island; Forts walk on Magnetic Island; Snorkelling on Magnetic Island. Image credits: Tourism and Events Queensland

If you love animals, the North Queensland Wildlife Tracker could be spot on for you. From Ayr to Hinchinbrook Island, you’ll see a raft of feathered, furred and scaled critters at places like Cromarty Wetlands north of Ayr, and diving with sealife on the SS Yongala. In Townsville, get your wild on at the Town Common Conservation Park or the Billabong Sanctuary. On ‘Maggie’, visit between May and August and experience the butterfly walk at Horseshoe Bay.

A blue tiger butterfly on Horseshoe Island. Image credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

The Whitsundays

Ah, The Whitsundays. The Heart of the Great Barrier Reef. Such a beautiful part of the world, with its 74 islands and many mainland wonders as well. It’s so easy to explore The Whitsundays – either drive your rig up here or fly in and hire a car or campervan. Easy peasy. As to which drive to take, the Adventures in The Whitsundays drive runs from Cedar Creek Falls to Bowen, and you can swim and paddle your heart out in blissful waterholes like the one at the base of the Cedar Creek Falls. Laze at postcard-perfect Hydeaway Bay north of Airlie Beach and knock back a bevvy or two at one of the beachfront resorts there, and in Airlie, jump in for a swim at the massive lagoon or take a dip at Boathaven Beach. Head north to Bowen, where it’s all about mangoes – you can eat ‘em, and tick off another ‘big thing’ – the Big Mango – before washing off those juices at the stunning fringing reefs just off the shore of Horseshoe Bay. While in town, savour the best seafood around – grab some fish and chips at Birds Fish Bar at Bowen Fishermans Wharf. Is there anything better than fish ‘n’ chips by the water? Nah.

Cedar Creek Falls; Airlie Beach from above. Image credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

For more Whitsundays goodness, check out the Cairns to Whitsundays drive. If you’re travelling from the south, try the Ultimate Guide to Driving the Great Barrier Reef from Bundaberg – hello Bundy Rum! – to Cairns, or strap in for the what-the-heck-let’s-do-it drive from Brisbane to the Whitsundays, taking you along 1268km of tropical coastline to North Queensland.

So you should be all revved up now to drive those highways and byways and dirt tracks, whether in your own rig or in a hired vehicle. Whichever drive you take, it will be a fair dinkum ripper! Cue AC/DC……

Cromarty Wetlands, Burdiken. Image credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Find your ultimate North Queensland road trip at drivenorthqueensland.com.au

Best to be totally prepared, so remember to always check road and weather conditions before you travel.

This article is brought to you by Drive North Queensland.

The post Hit the road in North Queensland appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Adventures in Japan go beyond the snow. When locals want to escape the cold, they head to Okinawa. Japan’s southernmost prefecture is a tropical paradise and only a short three-hour flight from Tokyo.

The far-flung archipelago of 160 islands is perfect for adventurers eager for summertime thrills. Many descend on Okinawa Main Island for its golden sand beaches, unique outdoor activities in jungles and waterways, and thriving marine life. Its distinct cultural heritage of a bygone era and relaxed pace of life is also a drawcard for curious travellers. 

Discover why Okinawa is Japan’s favourite summertime getaway with these must-do experiences found nowhere else.

Adventurous eating in the “Blue Zone”

Okinawa is one of five Blue Zones in the world. In these fabled regions, many residents reach their 100th birthday. They achieve the milestone by leading a healthy, happy, and satisfied life, with the pathway to contentment seemingly simple for Okinawans. 

One key factor is nutrition. Okinawans mostly follow a plant-based diet, with the purple sweet potato their secret weapon. It’s usually served alongside other locally grown, brightly coloured fresh vegetables, appeasing both tastebuds and wellbeing. 

A great way to savour typical Okinawan cuisine is with a homestay at Yambaru Hotel Nammei Shinshitsu. The traditional home-cooked feast in the lodging is one of 20 customised experiences hosted by Okinawans following their ikigai. The purpose-driven concept is driven by a reason for being -doing something that brings joy and adds value to one’s life. This includes hobbies, friends and keeping active – another key to longevity. 

Okinawa cuisine. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Practice Karate kicks

There’s no better way to test your tenacity and vigour than with a Karate lesson. Okinawa is the birthplace of Karate, with the ancient martial art dating back to the Ryukyu Kingdom. It is a unique part of the prefecture’s culture, with over 400 training facilities called dojos offering seminars and multi-day programs to practice Karate throughout the island and taught by a grandmaster.

Karate in Okinawa. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Tour de Okinawa

One of the best ways to sightsee Okinawa is by pedal power. Never mind working up a sweat; enjoy a warm sea breeze on a scenic island-hopping adventure via bike or e-bike.

Start at the tip of the Kouri Bridge, stretching two kilometres. It connects Okinawa’s main island to Kouri Island, forming part of the 58km-long Motobu Peninsula cycling route along the north coast. Besides admiring blue seas, spot turtles, sea stacks, sugar cane plantations, forested mountains, and farm fields, with many vantage points to enjoy sweeping views along the way. 

If you are keen on a cycling challenge, test your stamina by participating in the annual Tour de Okinawa race. Japan’s premier cycling event journeys 346km around the prefecture in multiple race categories, including the renowned two-day international tournament. It also includes races for families and citizens to get in on the two-wheel action around the island.

Cycling on Kouri Island; Kouri Bridge, Okinawa. Image credits: Okinawa Media Library

Kayak through mangroves

Explore Okinawa’s inland waterways and complex ecosystems on a kayak. While mangroves are a rarity elsewhere in the country, they are abundant in Okinawa, with four varieties found.

Several tour operators offer guided tours along the Hija River. Soak up the island’s natural beauty as you paddle the emerald river fringed by thirsty greenery. Remember to look up: Okinawa has abundant bird life, and the mangroves are a haven for feathered visitors.

Kayaking through mangroves. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Roam castle ruins

Okinawa is more than just blissful beaches, healthy eating, and combative kicks; be wowed by the foundations of its past by visiting castle ruins. Before it became the Ryukyu Kingdom, power was sought over Okinawa’s main island by three nations: the north’s Hokuzan, centrally located Chuzan, and the south’s Nanzan. Remnants of each ruler are evident today, with five castles listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Go back to the 13th century, pre-Ryukyu period, wandering the ruins of Nakijin (Nakijin-jo) Castle. Located in the island’s northwest, it was once the second-largest castle. It became the residence of the Ryukyuan government when the kingdom was formed in 1429. 

 The castle is encircled by forests and makes for an enchanting day out delving into Okinawa’s past. Walk in the shadows of the castle’s 1.5km limestone wall remains and follow hiking trails around the fortress, hearing nature’s soundtrack filled with birdsong and cicada strums.

Nakijin-jo Castle ruins. Image credit: Okinawa Media Library

Go from nature to city views exploring Shuri (Shuri-jo) Castle. The former Ryukyu royal palace within Naha’s city district was built in the 14th century and is a perfect example of the kingdom’s distinct architectural style. The red-roofed landmark has been restored several times over its 700-year existence. While parts of the castle are currently under repairs following a fire in 2019, you can still admire its splendour within citadel walls and visit exhibits.

Sail the seas on a Sabani

Gain a new perspective of island life onboard a Sabani. Okinawan fishermen have sailed in these slender, hand-carved wooden boats for centuries, with Ogimi village boat carpenter and captain Teppei Hentona offering two-hour cruises in peaceful Shioya Bay. 

Some muscle flexing is required, manoeuvring the boat with an oar resembling an enormous cricket bat. Yet, once the Sabani’s sail is hoisted, relax and take in the beauty of the surrounding green hills. Now that’s living.

Teppei Hentona and a Sabani. Image credits: Julia D’Orazio

For more information, visit Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) Sydney Office: https://www.japan.travel/en/au/

This article is brought to you by the Japan Tourism Organization (JNTO) Sydney Office. Julia travelled to Okinawa as a guest of JNTO.

The post What makes Okinawa Japan’s tropical adventure paradise appeared first on Australian Geographic.

See nature at its most spectacular as you cross valleys and grasslands, skirt rivers and lakes, journeying via road, rail and trail from the rainforest to the Rockies.

Vancouver vibes

As one of Canada’s most picturesque cities, and the arrival point for the majority of Australians, harbourside Vancouver is an easy place to immerse yourself in British Columbia’s art, food and outdoor lifestyle. Join locals on their daily jog through the leafy oasis of Stanley Park or go for a bike tour that will have you cruising around the park’s seawall, and learning about the biodiversity of the temperate rainforest and the history of the city’s First Nations people.

Vancouver, Canada. Image credit: Destination Vancouver/Albert Normandin

Explore popular Granville Island, a fantastic example of urban renewal and where you can sample BC-grown and -made produce from the Public Market, as well as pick up authentic art. When you return to the heart of Vancouver’s downtown precinct, you can experience some of the world’s most awe-inspiring landscapes on the virtual FlyOver Canada multi-sensory journey.

Vancouver is brimming with art galleries, hiking trails and must-visit restaurants, but what you really want to make time for is a visit to Vancouver Island. It’s easy to catch a ferry to the island, home to the impressive Malahat SkyWalk, a tower that rises 250 metres above sea level, through rainforest, to offer magnificent views over the Salish Sea.

If you’re travelling with Canadian tour specialist Adventure World, lap up the thrill of a seaplane flight to BC’s ultimate playground town of Whistler, where you will find yourself atop a glacier dining on wild BC salmon.

Vancouver Island; Exploring Whistler. Image credits: Destination BC/Reuben Krabbe, Tourism Whistler/Justa Jeskova

Vancouver is also where you can join the famous Rocky Mountaineer, an extraordinary rail journey through ever-changing landscapes. Pack a good book but don’t be surprised if you fail to open it as you find yourself captivated by the green fields of the Fraser Valley, and the river, canyons, forests, golden fields, waterfalls and mountains that pass by your train window on your way to the Rockies.

The Okanagan Valley’s wholesome charm

Venturing east from the Pacific Coast, you will travel from rainforest and cityscapes to Kelowna, in the Thompson Okanagan region of BC. It’s only 4.5 hours’ drive from Vancouver, but you’ll feel a world away as you embrace country living in this fertile valley.

If you’re setting your own pace on a customisable Adventure World itinerary, it’s worth taking a pause here so you can slow down and begin your days walking the waterfront boardwalk, wandering the town centre, and popping in and out of cosy cafes and boutique stores.

Kelowna is also where you can tour some of the province’s best breweries, vineyards and restaurants, or sprinkle your itinerary with a decent dose of hiking, biking and paddling.

Image credit: Destination BC/Jordan Dyck

Kelowna to Jasper via Mount Robson

If you’re embarking on a road-trip of a lifetime from coastal Vancouver to the soaring Rockies, one of the highlights will surely be the mountain town of Sun Peaks, a skier’s dream in winter and mountain biker’s realm the rest of the year. It’s also where people come to frolic through alpine wildflowers on Adventure World’s 10-day Road Trip to the Rockies itinerary. Enjoy a guided hiking excursion that starts with a chairlift ride to the top of the resort, making it accessible to travellers of various fitness levels. It can be hard to farewell Sun Peaks, but by the afternoon you will have laid eyes on Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, and one of the most magnificent sections of your BC rainforest to Rockies adventure.

Approaching Mt. Robson on Highway 16 in the summer. Image credit: Destination BC/Stephen Shelesky

Rainforest to Rockies by rail

Without a doubt, one of the best ways to truly appreciate BC’s white-capped mountains, lush forests and stunning lakes is to travel along its railways. You can forget about driving on the right-hand side of the road and truly relax while enjoying fine dining and fine service on the Rocky Mountaineer. But it doesn’t have to all be about riding the rails. Adventure World’s Mountain Peaks Rail Loop, and its other customisable itineraries allow for plenty of off-train exploration. You can become acquainted with Vancouver’s North Shore and learn about Pacific salmon, or set off without a guide for a mini choose-your-own-adventure afternoon. No matter whether you decide to travel by rail or road, or both, one thing is for sure: the iconic rainforest to Rockies Canadian journey will only be the start of your love affair with this magnificent country.

Yoho National Park in eastern BC, Aboard Rocky Mountaineer rounding a corner through a mountain pass. Image credits: Destination BC/@nomadasaurus

Discover extraordinary adventures with Adventure World. We’re travellers like you, offering authentic experiences. Let’s explore together!

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Sven-Olof Lindblad, founder and CEO of Lindblad Expeditions, once said, “The Arctic is a place we should seek to better understand and appreciate – for its own sake and for the sake of the world at large.”

This isolated and rugged region, named for the Greek word arktos, which refers to the northern constellation of the Bear, is the northernmost part of the planet. With the majority of the Arctic covered in water, exploring by expedition ship is the ideal way to go, with Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic able to call on decades of experience cruising in this icy wonderland, including Greenland, Iceland, the Svalbard archipelago, maritime Canada and the Northwest Passage. Sailing with Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic will immerse you in this compelling region, through strong relationships with local Arctic communities forged over many years.

Guests from the National Geographic Endurance kayaking in ice off the island of Edgeoya, Svalbard, Norway. Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

In 2024, Lindblad Expeditions, a 100 per cent carbon neutral company, has curated an impressive program that includes commemorative voyages featuring special guests, including the largest contingent of Visiting Scientists. This allows for critical research to be done, with guests able to attend talks on their findings, and in some cases, participate in the scientific process through data collection.

Responsible exploration is at the core of Lindblad’s philosophy, woven through its DNA ever since Lars-Eric Lindblad, Sven’s father, took private citizens on expeditions to Antarctica in 1966 and the Galápagos in 1967. He was the first to do so, seeing travel as a way for people to see firsthand the wonders of the world so they would want to conserve and protect it. Now with an impressive fleet of 17 ships, Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic offers more than 100 itineraries on seven continents, creating planetary stewards for precious environments every single day.

Around the land of fire and ice

As part of its Arctic offerings, Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic has many adventures to stupendous destinations, including Iceland. For an unforgettable adventure, consider Lindblad Expeditions’ Circumnavigation of Iceland, a 10-day round trip out of Reykjavík to marvel at this striking island rich in natural wonders, wildlife and cultural history. Visit Flatey Island, a centuries-old trading post with colourful houses, where you can hike past cliffs that are home to a seasonal puffin population. In the Westfjords, hike to a remote waterfall or take a Zodiac cruise to be totally spellbound by majestic scenery. In Húsavík, visit Goðafoss, one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland, and go on an adventure in legendary Ásbyrgi Canyon, where you can hike to waterfalls in what is said to be the hoof of Odin. On the island of Grímsey on the Arctic Circle, go ashore to see myriad birdlife, while at Borgarfjörðurhöfn, add to your photography collection with puffins, and go hiking or biking for wondrous views along the fjord. In Djúpivogur, tour down the coast to see the base of the vast Vatnajökull icecap, delve into deep valleys by 4WD, and admire the ethereal deep blue icebergs of the Jökulsárlón ice lagoon.

Colourful harbour with National Geographic Resolution in background, Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) Archipelago, Iceland; A puffin in Iceland. Image credits: Lindblad Expeditions

The Wild Iceland Escape is a five-day journey with some departures featuring National Geographic Photographic Experts to help you capture the thrilling beauty of the locations visited. Skagafjörður is known for its glacial rivers and photogenic Icelandic horses, while in the Westfjords, do a walking tour of the capital – Ísafjörður. On the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, a highlight in Grundarfjörður is the waterfall on Kirkjufell Mountain, sure to be the focus of many a lens on this trip.

Iceland is also on the exceptional Coastal Wonders of Norway, the Faroe Islands, and Iceland itinerary, a 16-day extravaganza on board the National Geographic Endurance. Board the ship in Tromsø after visiting the Arctic Cathedral, and the Polar Museum, which showcases the ships, equipment, and seafaring traditions of early Arctic settlers. In Tysfjorden, glide over mirror-smooth fjords on Zodiacs or in a kayak, before gasping at the sheer beauty of Trollfjorden, one of Norway’s most dramatic fjords, and the spectacular Lofoten archipelago, with its postcard-pretty coloured houses and rugged rocky peaks.

Twitchers will want to board the Zodiacs to spot puffins, razorbills, and guillemots before flitting off to the Shetlands to look for murres, puffings and kitiwakes on the cliffs of Noss, and on Foula, an island where puffins far outnumber humands, check out rich Viking history. Culture is also at the forefront in the Faroe Islands, a drop in the North Atlantic Ocean. First settled by Vikings in the ninth century, delve into the rich culture of these fascinating islands with a visit to Tórshavn, the capital, with the 12th-century St Olav’s Church standing alongside the ruins of Kirkjubøur’s Magnus Cathedral.

Svalbard, Norway. Image credits: Lindblad Expeditions.

Take flight to the Ancient Isles

The captivating coastlines of the British and Irish Isles are an Aladdin’s Cave of bird life, marine life, and mysterious caves. Add to that communities steeped in Celtic and Viking influences, charming characters and cosy pubs, and you have the perfect experience. The 12-day Ancient Isles: England, Ireland and Scotland journeys run between Edinburgh and Portsmouth on board National Geographic Explorer. Arrive in the Cornish port of Fowey (pronounced “Foy”) in the afternoon. Hike a coastal trail or enjoy a guided walk through the village of Fowey with a local. Alternatively, learn about the history of a few beautiful Cornish estates on a visit to Lanhydrock House and Restormel Castle, or get to know local producers and growers from the Duchy of Cornwall. The Isles of Scilly can trace its roots back to prehistoric times. More than 140 different islands make up this designated area of outstanding natural beauty. Take the time to explore one of England’s most pristine beaches and watch for migrating birds that frequent the islands. Weather permitting, enjoy a Zodiac ride among some of the most popular residents of the islands: the local seal colony. In the Inner Hebrides, contemplate the sacred island of Iona with its 13th-century abbey, believed to be where the Book of Kells originated. Several Scottish kings – including the real Macbeth – are buried in the royal graveyard here. On the island of Staffa, join Jim Wilson, one of the ship’s naturalists, to learn about the island and to observe its large puffin colony, and venture inside Fingal’s Cave by Zodiac (weather permitting), renowned for its six-sided basalt columns.

A guest walking back from An Sgùrr, the highest hill on the Inner Hebridean island of Eigg, Highland, Scotland. Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

The Outer Hebrides also shines, with more extraordinary seabird colonies. If weather permits, visit St Kilda, a traditional stone village left abandoned in 1930. The inhabitants now are gannets, wild sheep, wrens and puffins. In the Shetlands, marvel at the ponies, the bird life and the culture, while in the Orkneys, discover the Stone Age megaliths of the Ring of Brodgar, the 5000-year-old stone slab village of Skara Brae and St Magnus Cathedral, a landmark in sandstone that took three centuries to build. On two departures in 2025, the special guest speaker is Mary Robinson, former president of Ireland, and former special envoy to the United Nations on climate change.

When you return home after your adventure, you will be taking Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic’s philosophy with you, ensuring you care for the wildlife, culture and communities experienced on your journey to these remote and beautiful places.

This article is brought to you by Lindblad Expeditions. For more information call 1300 362 012 or email expeditions@adventureworld.com

The post Adventures at the top of the world appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Experiencing Kyushu for the first time is like unwrapping the best of presents. An unexpected surprise that warms the heart and soul. It is achingly beautiful, with aquamarine water, verdant islands, steaming hot springs, historical significance, soaring mountains, and everywhere, the warmth of the local people and the richness of the culture is all-encompassing.

Kyushu is an island located in the southwestern part of the Japanese archipelago and is a fertile destination; its rich volcanic soil ensures enticing food, and equally enticing scenery. While there are many spectacular prefectures on Kyushu, two stand out for the adventures you can experience there, Kunisaki, and Hirado. Let the team from Visit Kyushu inspire you to walk or cycle in the footsteps of the Samurai.

Discovering Kunisaki on two feet

The Kunisaki Peninsula is a place where you can come face-to-face with Japan’s national spiritual culture, with a thousand years of heritage and history – much of which remains unchanged today.

A wonderful way to immerse yourself in this history and culture is to undertake a four-night, five-day adventure along the Kunisaki Peninsula Ridge Long Trail, a path taken centuries ago by Shugendo Buddhist monks. Each step you take, when walking or cycling, will teach you about the monks back in ancient times, while you interact with the people who live on this land today.

Nada Midori-s. Image credit: Visit Kyushu

The itinerary

With a medium degree of difficulty, this tour is for groups of four -to -eight people and includes all meals along the way. Fly into Oita Airport, and meet your guide at Nada Midori-so, located by the sea on the Nada coast. The rhythmic sound of the waves as everyone is welcomed will set the scene for the harmonious nature of the journey.

From here, a private transfer will take you to Kitsuki, a town set around a castle that still looks much the same as it did during the Age of the Samurai. There are samurai residences on the hills to the north and south, with the historic merchant town sandwiched between them. Explore the town and visit the Tomaya tea shop to learn about tea etiquette and the tea ceremony. Tomaya should know, as it has been in business for almost three centuries.

Hop on your e-bike to start your cycling adventure over the mountain to Tashibu-no-Sho, with its truly beautiful landscape of rice terraces and villages that remain unchanged after many centuries. Meet some of the locals over a traditional lunch, then ride on through less hilly country towards Maki Odo and its Buddhist statues before pedalling on to Fukiji Temple, with its main hall a national treasure of Japan. It is a very spiritual place, and will help ease the tiredness of the 38km ride over the day.

Visitors cycling from Kitsuki to Tashibu-no-Sho. Image credit: Visit Kyushu

Wake at your ryokan and be blessed with ‘zazen’, a morning Zen meditation in the sanctuary that is Fukiji Temple. Mind clear, and breakfast done and dusted, you will be transferred by private car to Saihoji no Sato – the starting point of what will be a 9km hike over the day. With every step, you will feel the history of all that has gone before, as this path was used by Shugendo practitioners. Stop and take in the incredible views at the top of the pass, then venture to Ofudo Iwaya. This cave is called an Iwaya, and people worshipped it as a place where Buddha resided. Ofudo Iwaya is one of the largest, and the panorama is achingly beautiful.

Climbing the rocky incline from Saihoji no Sato to Ofudo Iwaya. Image credit: Visit Kyushu

After refuelling with lunch in this special place, descend down the mountain and stop off at Senso-ji Temple to make a wish on a ‘goma’ (piece of wood), then climb up the hill to Itsutsuji Fudo, the highest point of Kyu-Sento-ji, the remains of the former temple, which was one of the greatest in Kunisaki. Atop this steep rock, the goma on which you wrote your wish will be burned, and worshippers will pray that your wish will come true. Hike down the mountain then transfer by private vehicle to Imi Port, for the 20-minute boat trip to the island of Himeshima.

Painting a traditional mask in Himeshima; Standup paddling boarding in Beppu Bay. Image credits: Visit Kyushu

Known for its Fox Dance, you’ll learn to make a traditional mask and ‘Imokiri’, a local samurai cuisine. With that samurai energy you’ll be ready to walk up Mount Yahazu, a volcano that was active about 90,000 years ago, and look over the Kunisaki Peninsula, before heading back on the ferry and private car to Beppu Onsen, where you can experience the hot spring culture.

On your final day, stroll through the steamy hot springs of Myoban Onsen, then go for a stand up paddle to a secret cave in Beppu Bay. End your trip with a visit to the ruins of Hiji Castle.

Find out more about this itinerary to Kunisaki visit the new adventure page on the Visit Kyushu website.

Heavenly Hirado

The island of Hirado is in the western part of Kyushu, connected to the Kyushu mainland by a large suspension bridge. Hirado became the gateway to Japan in the 16^th century, when Portuguese ships arrived during the global Age of Discovery. This was the very place where the samurai first met the West. It was from here, that Western culture flowed into the rest of Japan and began to influence Japanese culture.

The island is mountainous with hilly terrain extending to the coast. The people here learned to grow crops on the limited land they had, and thanks to the warm currents that flow along the coast, fish are in great supply.

Cycling around Ikitsuki Island. Image credit: Visit Kyushu

The itinerary

This three-night, four-day journey, for a group of between two and four people, will see you based in the city of Hirado, a mysterious city with the typically Japanese-style Hirado Castle at its heart.

Day one will see you catch the ferry to Hirado, then take a bicycle tour of around 5.2km around the city, starting with Hirado Castle, which has incredible views over the city, mountains and the sea from the top floor.

Afterwards, visit the Matsuura Historical Museum to see the incredible collection of the Matsuura clan, who ruled Hirado. Marvel at the authentic samurai armour, and learn about the role Hirado played historically, as the place where Christianity was introduced. In the city, you can see ancient Japanese Buddhist temples, but you can also see a Catholic church standing next to them. 

Visiting Matsuura Historical Museum in Hirado. Image credit: Visit Kyushu

Day two will see you climbing the World Heritage-listed Mount Yasumandake. Ride the bike to the trailhead, stopping to take in the vistas at the Kawachi Pass on the way and purchase from hot spring water from a vending machine. It is an unusual place.

Mt. Yasumandake tells a wonderful story. It has become a spiritual stronghold for local residents, who created stone steps up the mountain so they could pay homage at the shrine at the top. There is also a history of visits to the shrine by hidden Christians. From the top, enjoy the views over the East China Sea.

Mount Yasumandake. Image credit: Visit Kyushu

Trek down towards Kasuga Village, a World Heritage Site. Kasuga Village has one of the few flat areas of the region with its terraced rice paddies a beautiful sight.  Return to the village in a private car, resting your legs after the 8km cycle and 5.3km trek.

Head out on the water on day three, on board a fishing boat. A fixed net is set in the bountiful sea and you will experience pulling up the fish with the net. Even better, you get to eat the fish you caught for breakfast. Back on dry land, learn how to make local specialty, ‘oshizushi’ (pressed sushi) before heading off on your bike for a 30km ride around the neighbouring island of Ikitsuki. The first half of the ride will be on the Sunset Road which has cliffs on the right and the sea on the left en route to your lunch stop – Obae Lighthouse at the northern tip of the island.

Cycle back along the eastern side of the island stopping along the way to learn more about the local people’s way of life on this. Dinner will be at a local ‘izakaya’ loved by the locals.

On the last day, learn to make ‘casdoce’, a sweet form of castella cake that was introduced to the locals when the Portuguese ships came here in the 16^th century.  A very sweet way to end a wonderful exploration of this fascinating island.

Catching fish in Hirado; casdoce cake. Image credits: Visit Kyushu

For more information on this Hirado itinerary, visit the new adventure page on the Visit Kyushu website.

Plan your next adventure to Kyushu by visiting visit-kyushu.com

This article is brought to you by Visit Kyushu.

The post Adventure through the heartland in Japan’s Kyushu appeared first on Australian Geographic.

History lives in the Bathurst region. The Wiradjuri people, the Traditional Owners of the land, shaped the landscape of the plains over thousands of years through their use of fire, hunting and agriculture. The pioneers ventured over the Blue Mountains to the Bathurst Plains from 1815, when the first road over the mountains was completed at the behest of Governor Macquarie. This laid the foundation for the town, officially named Bathurst on 7 May 1815.

The town grew steadily, but in 1851 gold was discovered and the town of Bathurst boomed, becoming Australia’s first gold centre. Along with this treasure came bushrangers, keen to try their luck at robbing the carriages carrying the gold down the mountain to Sydney. And miners, who worked hard in their search for fame and fortune, could drink at their favourite watering hole – with 61 hotels to choose from.

You won’t find that many hotels in the Bathurst of today, but you will find a modern city with one foot firmly planted in the past. The town embraces its history, warts and all, with the 2024 Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail set to take place in March at the Bathurst Showground to celebrate the history, trades and traditions that shaped this region. To further add to the celebrations, spend a few days exploring some of the historic buildings that have played a role in the Bathurst of today.

Abercrombie House

This historic mansion, built by the pioneering Stewart family in the1870s, has been lovingly restored by the Morgan family over the past 50 years. Its elegant stone walls contain reception rooms, a grand staircase, ballroom, bedrooms and corridors, with tours inside the house, the outbuildings and the magnificent grounds available all year round. To elevate your experience, book in for a High Tea in the beautiful ballroom, or attend one of the special Scottish events held throughout the year.

The 1870’s historic mansion, Abercrombie House in Bathurst. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

Machattie Park

An important example of a late 19^th century Victorian country town park, Machattie Park was formally opened in December 1890 on the site of the Old Bathurst Gaol, which was demolished to make way for the park. Along with its mature and majestic trees, including the stunning avenues of Huntingdon Elms that border the park, Bunya Pine, Atlas Cedar, Red Beech, English Oak, Wellingtonia and Chinese Elm, the park features a bandstand, Caretakers Cottage, Crago Fountain, the Fernery, Lake Spencer and the Munro Drinking Fountain.

Crago Fountain in Machattie Park, Bathurst. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

Bathurst War Memorial Carillon

This carillon is one of only three in Australia, the others being in Canberra and Sydney. It opened on Armistice Day in 1933, having been chosen by the locals as the best way to honour the men and women who served in World War I. The locals fundraised to build this Carillon, which boasts 35 bells and used 212,000 local bricks. The Carillon chimes every 15 minutes, and plays a tune each day at noon and 1pm.

Bathurst War Memorial Carillon. Image credits: Bathurst Tourism

Bathurst Courthouse

Opened in 1880, this grand Victorian era courthouse in the heart of the city is still being used as a courthouse today with sittings for the court of petty sessions, district and supreme courts. The building, designed by James Barnet, is listed by the National Trust, with the east wing housing the Bathurst and District Historical Society Museum.

Bathurst Flagstaff

This site is of importance as it was where the original proclamation was made to declare Bathurst as a settlement back in 1815. It features the original plaque that was a part of the original flagstaff at the Proclamation Cairn. A viewing platform with etched glass panels features handprints of local Aboriginal children, Elders and Wiradjuri designs of Girawu (the Tree Goanna) and Biladurang (Platypus) dreaming.

Bathurst Courthouse at sunset; Bathurst Flagstaff. Image credits: David Roma, Bathurst Tourism

Chifley Home and Education Centre

Ben Chifley was Australia’s 16^th prime minister and he lived in Bathurst with his wife, Elizabeth, during his term. His house has been preserved and is a persisting time capsule of life in the 1940s. The Chifleys moved into the house in 1914, and it still features the original collection of household furnishings, kitchenware and personal effects. An adjacent house is now an informative museum about Chifley’s life and Australian politics back in the day.

Chifley Home and Education Centre. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

Bathurst Grange Gin Distillery

The Grange was a homestead established on the Macquarie Plains in 1823, making it one of the earliest surviving colonial farmhouses built in inland Australia. Constructed by convicts, the building has a wrap-around verandah, the first of its kind in Australia, and is also known for its symmetrical Georgian façade. Charles Darwin visited The Grange during his visit to Bathurst in 1836, meeting the owners – the West Family. He might have preferred to visit today, since it is now a Distillery, producing impressive gins and whiskies.

The entrance of Bathurst Grange Gin Distillery; the Barrell Room in Bathurst Grange Gin Distillery. Image credits: Bathurst Tourism

Miss Traill’s House

Managed by the National Trust, this charming Victorian-era bungalow built in 1845 tells the story of Miss Ida Traill and her family during their life in the Bathurst of old. Miss Traill amassed an impressive collection of furniture, ceramics, horse racing memorabilia and art, all of which she bequeathed along with the house to the National Trust in 1976. The grounds of the house are a great spot for a picnic, and there are tours of the property on Sundays.

The front view of Miss Traill’s House; the drawing room of Miss Traill’s House, Bathurst. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

Old Government Cottage

The Old Government Cottage is an excellent example of an original settlers’ cottage, located at 16 Stanley Street on the western side of the Macquarie River. It first became a museum in 1965, and underwent a major repair in 2012, the first major work on the building since the mid-1960s. Its origins are a mystery, with most people believing it was built around 1850 as a school for young ladies. An interpretive display of Bathurst’s earliest history is located within the building.

Old Government Cottage and garden, Bathurst. Image credit: Bathurst Tourism

The 2024 Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail

This wonderful event is held to celebrate the rich history of Bathurst, paying homage to the trades and traditions that have helped shape the region. Held at the iconic Bathurst Showground, the event will showcase rare and lost trades and crafts from Australia’s oldest inland European settlement. Explore fine and rare craftwork inside the pavilions and agricultural and heavy industry heritage trades outdoors. You’ll also witness traditional Indigenous tool and weapon making, blacksmithing, see a saddlery, dry stone walling, whip cracking and making, glass artistry, lace making, tapestry, embroidery, carpentry and joinery, cigar box guitar making and violin making.

Ride on an authentic Cobb & Co Coach, and visit some of Bathurst’s most important museums and heritage houses on a free hop-on, hop-off bus. With so many things to see and do, you’ll need all of the two days to take it all in.

The Bathurst Heritage Trades Tail will uncover the places and stories behind the city of Bathurst.

The Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail is on 16-17 March at the Bathurst Showground. Visit the website here for all of the details.

This article is brought to you by Bathurst Heritage Trades Trail.

The post Nine must-see heritage attractions in the Bathurst region appeared first on Australian Geographic.

With the railway arriving in 1893, the town grew into an important rail centre, being in a prosperous wheat and sheep district. It has one of the state’s largest inland grain storage terminals and a major agricultural research station. It’s well known as a centre for harness racing with numerous trotting studs in the district.

Today it’s also famous for its outstanding Temora Aviation Museum and popular air shows, which occur regularly and provide an opportunity to see the museum’s historic planes in flight.

Location:

Temora is 280m above sea level and located 423km south-west of Sydney via
the Hume Motorway and Burley Griffin Way.

Origin of Name:

In 1880 a town site was proclaimed as Watsonforde, after the Colonial Treasurer, James Watson. However, the settlement was already known as Temora and, at the request of the locals and Watson,
it was officially changed.

Useful Websites:

temora.com.au
destinationnsw.com.au

Places of interest

1. Temora Aviation Museum

This facility was created and financed in 1999 by aviator and musician David Lowy, who aimed to create “an aviation museum dedicated to aircraft and pilots who had defended Australia”. Temora’s rich aviation history, enthusiastic local council, flat terrain and uncontrolled air space below 20,000 feet made it ideal. It’s located at Temora Aerodrome, which was the base of Australia’s largest RAAF Elementary Flying Training School, during World War II.

2. Temora Air Shows

Up to eight times a year the Aviation Museum has a flying weekend when many of its aircraft take to the sky. The shows are well organised and designed for both experts and novices. The demonstration flights program includes great commentary and pilot interviews. At the end of each flying day, barriers are taken down and spectators can walk onto the tarmac, talk to pilots and inspect planes.

3. Statue of Paleface Adios

In Paleface Park on the corner of Hoskins and Loftus streets, a statue commemorates legendary harness racehorse Paleface Adios (aka The Temora Tornado). Born in 1969, he died in 1989 and won 108 races, helping to make Temora and the surrounding district a centre for Australian harness racing.

4. Canola Trail

An initiative shared between the shires of Coolamon, Junee and Temora, the Canola Trail is designed to offer a circular route between the three towns to highlight their local produce, unique railway history and natural attractions. You can find a useful downloadable map here. This map resource includes suggested itineraries on the 151km route, which can be spread across one, two or three days.

5. Railway Museum

Located in Camp Street, the Temora Railway Museum is at the town’s historic, and still operating, railway station. There is a Railyard Walk with signage explaining the railyard’s history, and volunteers provide visitors with official tours.

A highlight is the story of Boofhead, a black-and-white fox terrier (depicted in a statue at the museum) who, in the 1960s, rode the trains as far as Goulburn and Lake Cargelligo. The signage explains: “Boofhead had a likeable personality and it didn’t take long for railway workers and the people of Temora to develop a strong affection for him… It was soon clear that he had a real passion for train travel and quickly became known as ‘Temora’s railway dog’.”

History

The area is the traditional home
of the Wiradjuri people.

The ‘Temora pastoral run’
was established in 1847 by
John Donald McCansh.

Gold was first found in the
Temora area in 1869.

The main Temora gold rush commenced in 1879.

In 1880 a town site was chosen, laid out and proclaimed.

By 1881 the Temora goldfield
was producing half of NSW’s gold.

The town’s population reached 20,000 in the early 1880s. Mostly miners, they extracted a total of 4000kg from the district.

The railway arrived in 1893 making Temora a vital wheat terminal.

By the early 1900s, German farmers who had trekked from South Australia were settling in the surrounding area.

Cattle saleyards and a butter factory opened in 1912.

Temora Aerodrome was established in 1941 as an RAAF training school.

In 1969 Paleface Adios, one of the greatest harness-racing horses ever bred in Australia, was born.

The Temora Aviation Museum was opened in 2000.

In 2016 the railway station was revitalised as a museum.

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Image credit: State Library of New South Wales

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Temora, NSW appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For more than 35 years Australian Geographic has been encouraging its audience to get outdoors, explore and connect with this wonderful country of ours and there are few more fun ways in which to do so than to jump on a bicycle and start pedalling. It is this ideal that led Australian Geographic to produce “Australia’s Best 100 Bike Rides”, a guidebook that details some of this country’s greatest bicycle rides, for all age groups and skill levels (available from all good book stores and online here). In this exclusive excerpt from the book, we reveal our three favourites from each state and territory.  

NEW SOUTH WALES

Perimeter-Long Trail

Distance: 21km Grade: Easy Bike: MTB/Gravel

This magical there-and-back-again ride is found at Terrey Hills, in Sydney’s Northern Beaches area. This ride combines two designated routes – Perimeter and Long trails, in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park – to deposit riders at one of Sydney’s most beautiful viewpoints: Peach Trees Lookout. From this high-up natural wonder, there are expansive views across the Hawkesbury River to Cowan Creek and Berowra on the northern banks of the river. Reaching Peach Trees is a lovely ride along primarily firetrail (Perimeter Trail is signposted and there is ample parking on streets near its start point), through dense bush dotted with eucalypts, grass trees and loads of wildlife.

The Perimeter Trail comprises the first section and is a wide, undulating firetrail (keep an eye out for horse riders and walkers here) that loops north and west around the top end of Terrey Hills for a touch over 6km before you reach the Long Trail turn-off that takes you north. From here, the route is slightly rougher under your wheels and continues its undulating profile for just under 4km before you reach the lookout. You cannot ride up to the rock that offers the best views but can leave your bike just below and walk. The ride is ideal for families, and it is well worth taking a picnic and to spend some time admiring the view (and refuelling) before the return journey.

Central West Cycle Trail

Distance: 400km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel/MTB

Through wheat-lands and woodlands, this new arrival on the cycling scene loops through NSW’s Central West region, following backroads on a tour that can be stretched across a week. Opened in 2020, the route puts towns in easy reach each night – Mudgee, Gulgong, Dunedoo, Mendooran, Ballimore, Dubbo, Wellington, Goolma – with the spaces between no longer than 60km. 

The ride is that rarest of things in Australia – a road route specifically targeted at cycle tourers. The loop ride is a mix of sealed and unsealed roads, and it provides a gentle introduction to touring – you’ll need to carry panniers or bikepacking bags, but you can get away without camping gear or much food on board.

To this, it adds wine country around Mudgee, pockets of gold-mining history, and beautiful rural country interspersed with forest and dotted with wildflowers. In a couple of places, there’s a choice of two routes – roads suitable to gravel bikes, or more challenging stretches for mountain bikes.

The CWC can be started anywhere around the loop, and cycled in either direction, but Mudgee makes a good starting point, pedalling out through its surrounding vineyards, which make a good excuse for a short day (30km) to Gulgong, a town rich in gold-rush history.

The classic country moments continue with the likes of the grand red-brick Hotel Dunedoo, the silo art in Dunedoo, and the hospitality that has farmhouses, such as Mayfield (near Birriwa), and even the post office in Wongarbon, preparing morning tea for cyclists who call ahead. There are also hatted restaurants and a whisky and rum distillery in Mendooran.

Narooma-Dalmeny Coast Ride

Narooma-Dalmeny Coast Ride

Distance: 21km return Grade: Easy Bike: Any

The NSW Far South Coast towns of Dalmeny and Narooma abut a coastline that is magnificent in its splendour, with golden beaches, inlets and, just off the coast, Barunguba (Montague Island). Thankfully, for two-wheeled visitors, there’s a brilliant bike path that links the two towns, allowing you to experience all these natural wonders up close. 

The ride heads north from Narooma with the start at Riverside Drive, near the wharf at Wagonga Inlet. From here you follow the path beside the blue-green waters of Wagonga Inlet, toward Narooma Highway Bridge. After crossing the bridge, you join the (timber) Mill Bay Boardwalk and wind around toward the inlet’s mouth (stop at where fisher-folk clean their catch and you may spot one of the resident seals). As well as seals, keep an eye out for other marine life, such as rays, and fish, and – if you’re riding here in whale season – there’s a high chance of spotting these migrating giants, too. Continuing, you ride past wetlands (great for birdwatching) and then any number of beaches. The ride is excellent when it comes to outlooks; several viewing platforms along Kianga headland offer views over some of the best beaches in NSW (there are also picnic spots along this route). The sealed path continues all the way to Dalmeny Sports Club, your start/turn-around point for this memorable family ride.

AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL TERRITORY

Lake Burley Griffin

Distance: 35km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

When Walter Burley Griffin designed a lake at the heart of Canberra, he could easily have had cyclists in mind. Its shores are flat, its 35km circumference makes for a perfect few hours of pedalling and almost every national public building of note sits huddled along its edges. The lake is entirely ringed by a shared-use path, which clings to the shores of the lake most of the way. The major deviations from its shores take you around Government House in Yarralumla, and through the Jerrabomberra Wetlands at the lake’s eastern end.

Doubling as a sightseeing tour of the national capital, the ride can be started anywhere along the lakeshore, and be cycled in either direction. Navigation is simplicity itself – simply keep to the mostly sealed path beside the water. Highlights include the Parliamentary Zone, where riders pass the National Gallery, the flag-festooned High Court, and the monolithic National Library, with Parliament House set on a low hill behind. The foreshore precinct in Kingston – where the path returns to the lake after arcing out through the wetlands – and the avant-garde New Acton district offer more distractions.

The ride is pretty much a choose-your-own adventure. You can lap the lake in a two-hour burst, or linger in the National Arboretum, National Museum, or any of dozens of other lakeside diversions to draw the ride out across a full day. If you’re an early riser, it’s a beautiful dawn ride, when the rowers are on the waters, the hot-air balloons are in the sky, and the day and the lake are likely as still as a meditation.

Stromlo Forest Park

Distance: 50km+ Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Welcome to MTB heaven. Stromlo Forest Park is just 15 minutes from downtown Canberra and has just about every type of riding for anyone who enjoys dirt under their knobbies. All-up there is said to be more than 50km worth of trails here, if you include the trials skill park, four-cross track, pump track and even a criterium circuit for road cyclists. There’s also a café, showers, toilets, plenty of parking in several different locations and even shuttle buses for those not keen on the climbing.

Sitting on the slopes of Mount Stromlo, the park was developed in the wake of devastating 2003 bushfires that destroyed the old informal riding network. The trails at Stromlo cater for cross-country and downhill riders and vary in difficulty from beginner to expert – or white to double black using the International Mountain Biking Association’s grading system.

The geography is rocky in places and the hill is quite exposed, which makes it a dusty and sweaty place to be in the heat of mid-summer Canberra. Best to ride early or late on those sorts of days. In winter it can get pretty darn cold but there’s not too much rain, so great MTB weather!  

On the comprehensive website you’ll find six downloadable maps of loops for riders having their first pedal, all the way to the gnarliest of hardened veterans. As a general guide, the closer to the café you are, the gentler the riding. Those with confidence and fitness can strike out for the northern trails in the farthest reaches of the park. They require skill and climbing legs but the rewards of trails like the rocky Pork Barrel and beautifully crafted Double Dissolution make it all worthwhile.

Canberra Centenary Trail

Don’t be fooled – this long weekend circumnavigation of our capital city is no pushover of cycle paths and coffee stops. Sure, those things crop up now and again, but you’ll also need some serious grunt to tackle the series of big hills that encircle Canberra. The city and surrounds are renowned as a mountain biker’s paradise for a reason! Officially starting and ending at Parliament House (but possible to join at any point), the trail heads north up to the NSW border, before cutting west through some flowy rural country and cruising the longest, sweetest downhill of them all to the cute village of Hall. From there it continues south past the MTB mecca of Stromlo and the end of Lake Burley Griffin, taking in the standout section along Red Rock Gorge and into Tuggeranong, where it swings north again and back into the city.

The riding is a mixture of urban tarmac, rustic grass/dirt, and mountain bike singletrack. Campsites are thin on the ground in Canberra, so take advantage of the proximity to civilisation and make a holiday of it by booking a few nice hotels (with showers!). The CCT doubles as a walker’s trail, so watch those tight corners, and allow plenty of time for picnics and sightseeing. Hell, if you stop at every attraction you pass, from the War Memorial to the Dinosaur Museum, you could be at it for weeks!

VICTORIA

East Gippsland Rail Trail

Distance: 97km Grade: Easy Bike: Gravel/MTB

Gippsland is the patriarch of rail trails in Australia, with almost a dozen of these converted railways zipping across the lush region. Prime among them is this ride between Bairnsdale and Orbost, following a century-old railway line through the forests and farmland that define this eastern end of Victoria. The railway remains a true presence along the ride, with a number of historic trestle bridges keeping the trail company.

From Howitt Park, on the bank of the Mitchell River at Bairnsdale’s edge, the trail (colloquially known as the Easy Gippy Rail Trail) sets out across the floodplain, running sealed to Nicholson (and unsealed for the rest of the trail beyond), with occasional views south to the Gippsland Lakes. Leaving Nicholson across the old railway bridge over the Nicholson River, the ride takes a sudden turn north, heading into Bruthen. Thirty kilometres from Bairnsdale, Bruthen makes the perfect lunch stop.

Another railway bridge leads over the Tambo River, where the trail begins climbing towards its highest point (129m above sea level) at Colquhoun. Just before reaching the apex, there’s a junction with the Gippsland Lakes Discovery Trail, a secondary rail trail that detours 25km south into Lakes Entrance – if you want to add the lakes to the Gippsland cycling experience, head away here.

The descent from Colquhoun bottoms out at Stony Creek, beside the trail’s signature feature – the 276m-long, 19m-high Stony Creek Trestle Bridge. With its 27 spans, it’s the longest bridge of its type to be found in Victoria. There are more trestle bridges ahead, including the curved O’Grady’s Bridge at Wairewa (which was badly burned in bushfires in 2020).

Main Yarra Trail

Distance: 22km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

Here’s proof you don’t need to pack your bike up and travel hours into the countryside to get in some off-road riding. Melbourne’s Main Yarra Trail starts – or finishes depending on your perspective – at Southbank in the CBD and meanders alongside the river it is named after, through the Victorian capital’s north-eastern suburbs.

The other end of the trail is widely judged to be Westerfolds Park in Eltham, partially because it is a logical place to park a car. But it is possible to ride further east toward Warrandyte. The surface can vary from gravel singletrack to concrete walkway and the level of traffic on foot and two wheels can reflect the fact it navigates through the heart of one of our greatest cities.

Despite its urban location it is certainly possible to feel you’re far from the maddening crowd on the Yarra Trail. On an isolated section I once disturbed a large snake that then surfed away over the surrounding bushes to escape me – not that I wanted to chase it! There is another section where you meander through trees on singletrack immediately below the Eastern Freeway. For all that, the good news is being so close to civilisation means coffee and a feed is never far away!

The Cruffin Run

Distance: 53km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel

In the same way that gravel bikes combine road and mountain bikes, cruffins are the result of merging croissants, donuts, and muffins. The outcome is the delectable, jam- or curd-filled sugary pastry that you’ve been missing from the start, middle or end of every bike ride you’ve ever done, except this one.

Start in the village of Moyhu in the King Valley, just 20km from Wangaratta in Victoria’s High Country. There’s a gravel loop trailhead here, plus toilets, a cafe, and a pub. After your pre-ride coffee (naturally), head east on a quiet sealed road for 5km before turning north. The transition to shady, gumtree-lined backroads and farm lanes is almost instant, and the flat gradient means you’ll spend far more time looking at the beauty around you than focusing on which gear you’re in.

It’d be rude to ride past the famous Brown Brothers cellar door at 22km without stopping in, so once you’ve scratched that itch, press on for another couple of kilometres through the Milawa township. Assuming you’re there early enough for there to be any remaining, your cruffins are waiting for you at The Milawa Kitchen, next to the Milawa Cheese Company.

There’s enough on offer here for you to spend a good hour or two taking it all in. In fact, a set of panniers or a backpack might come in handy, particularly as on the return journey to Moyhu you’ll pass a mustards shop, a smokehouse, two providores, another bakery, more cellar doors, and a gin distillery. Luckily the return 25km to Moyhu is just as flat and scenic as the first half of the ride, so you probably won’t even notice the extra kilograms you’ll be carrying back to the car…

TASMANIA

Clarence Foreshore Trail

Distance: 14.5km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

This trail follows Hobart’s picturesque Derwent River, kicking off at Geilston Bay and finishing at Howrah. Consisting of mostly flat footpaths, with the odd gravel section, a few roadside connections and a couple of hills, the trail is accessible for all abilities and skill levels, with plenty of entry and exit points. A highlight for families? Playgrounds galore for those inevitable refuel and rest stops. For those riders with little legs, a shorter version sees you set off from Geilston Bay and finish at Bellerive Park, with its playground and – yes! – the chance to indulge in fish and chips by the beach.

The ride encompasses magical views, from yachts bobbing on their moorings, to willow trees dangling over the trail. Passing under Hobart’s famous Tasman Bridge is a highlight, especially for the youngest cyclists, with the chance to test the echoes bouncing off the huge concrete pylons.

At Kangaroo Bay, about 9km from the start, you may time it right for local market stalls. The beach here is beautiful, plus those aforementioned fish and chips are available nearby.  The final leg around a headland leads Bellerive Beach and then on to Howrah Beach.

Blue Derby

Distance: 125km+ Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Since launching its network of mountain bike trails in 2015, the once-forlorn tin-mining town of Derby has become a byword for mountain biking. Its network of trails, which now extends to around 125km, instantly generated such fanfare and attention that it almost single-handedly inspired the burst of trail openings across Australia in the subsequent years.

The key to Derby’s appeal is the flowing nature of its trails, which begin high in the Blue Tier mountains, with a compact cluster of trails around Derby itself. A large pump track on the bank of the Ringarooma River keeps crowds of kids happy, while the riding can begin as leisurely as a lap around Lake Derby, across the river from town.

Signature trails include Blue Tier, which hurries down rainforest-covered slopes of its namesake mountain range to Welborough; and Atlas, which continues the journey from near Weldborough down into Derby. Shuttle services out of Derby make it possible to ride both in a full, 30km day, descending from sub-alpine clearings at the top of the Blue Tier through magnificent rainforest to the dry sclerophyll forests around Derby.

Shuttles also head to the Black Stump, dropping riders off at fun descents such as Flickity Sticks, Return to Sender, Kingswall and Kumma-Gutza. Shuttles aren’t always necessary, with the gentle Axehead looping out from town to connect with a host of other trails. Favourite trails at the black end of things include Detonate, where bike handlebars all but scrape between boulders; and the steep and technical Trouty, which compensates with fine views… if you can find an opportunity to look up.

Montezuma Falls

Distance: 11km return Grade: Easy Bike: Gravel/MTB

It’s a blessing to cyclists that a mining tramway once punched its way through the damp rainforest of Tasmania’s west coast to the base of the state’s highest waterfall. The North East Dundas Tramway was once used to transport ore to smelters in Zeehan, but is now shared by mountain bikers and walkers wanting to view 104m-high Montezuma Falls.

There are two cycling approaches into the falls. The longer and more difficult ride is a 14km (one way) route from Melba Flats, but the simpler approach (described here) is along the old tramway beside the Ring River. Rainforest is the one constant of this often-muddy ride, which sets out from Williamsford and dips to cross Baker Creek before joining the course of the tramway. The greatest relic of the tramway days is an original wooden bridge immediately beside the trail’s newer bridge almost 2km into the ride. Further ahead, there’s a section of old tramway sleepers ribbed across the track – a bumpy ride guaranteed – and an old mining shaft that disappears into cliffs just before you reach the falls.

The track ends a few metres before the waterfall, which was named after Montezuma Silver Mining Company and spills down the cliffs in a narrow stream. You can wander to its base and out onto a heady swing bridge with fine views onto the waterfall. The bridge is also the start of the trail to Melba Flats if you want to ride a linear through-route – it’s a 19km ride in total but requires a vehicle shuttle from Melba Falls back to Williamsford.

NORTHERN TERRITORY

Uluru Circuit

Distance: 10.6km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

This full loop of the world’s most famous monolith is a must-do for any visitors to the Northern Territory’s Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. It is a very easy, very flat ride that you could, if you were, for some odd reason, in a rush, complete in less than an hour, but please don’t. ‘The Rock’ as Uluru is also known, hides some incredibly scenic and spiritual secrets that you must experience for yourself.

The ‘official’ loop starts from the Mala car park, but if you’re hiring a bike (Outback Cycling offers hires), you will start from 2km west, at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre car park and take the bike path to Mala. From here, it is an anti-clockwise journey on predominantly hard dirt, with a little bit of sand to negotiate from Mala to Mutitjulu waterhole. This part of the loop brings you close to Uluru itself before a must-stop at Mutitjulu waterhole where you can park your bike at the bike rack and take the short walk into the gorge itself. 

The track then continues around Uluru, moving further away from the rock, before you ride parallel to its more heavily eroded northern face. After that, though, you’re back closer and ready for more exploration at Kantju Gorge and its pretty waterhole. From there, the loop continues to curve around and, before you know it, you’re back at Mala and ride’s end, but far richer for the memories of experiencing this ageless icon up close.  

Nitmiluk

Distance: 19km Grade: Easy to Intermediate Bike: MTB

Nitmiluk National Park has always been a highlight for visitors to the Northern Territory, with its spectacular gorge system previously only able to be admired from the water or on foot. With thirteen gorges to visit, most visitors never get past the first couple, but with the introduction of mountain bikes into the national park, it is now possible to ride to some stunning locations. 

The climate here dictates the ride. The green Jalkwarak loop is under 6km and is a wise warm-up. Being close to the road and the ranger station, you can ensure that everything is in order before you push deeper into the park. The network is around 19km and is mainly shared use, although being up on the plateau you won’t see many other users on the network. The newly built MTB-specific sections of trail – Jalkwarak (Easy Grade) and Jatete (Intermediate) – are fantastic with Jatete offering brilliant views over the pristine Katherine River. The more adventurous can push further east on shared-use trails to Pat’s Lookout or descend Bamjon for a cooling dip. 

If you want a ride and swim, the nearby town of Katherine has a town loop and lovely natural spa that’s easy to get to. Just remember crocodiles live at Nitmiluk. The harmless freshwater crocs are year-round inhabitants but the deadly salties slip in during the wet season, so only get in the water after the all-clear has been given by the park rangers. Crocodiles, stunning views, and remote trails, you won’t forget this day’s bike ride!

Simpsons Gap Bike Path

Distance: 17km Grade: Easy Bike: Hybrid/Gravel/MTB

Running umbilically between Alice Springs and Simpsons Gap, the nearest of the West MacDonnell Ranges’ multitude of narrow gorges to the city, this fully sealed bike path is a desert delight. Beginning beside the boulder-topped grave of John Flynn, founder of the Royal Flying Doctor Service, the path rolls gently through the Alice Valley, pinched between the rust-red mountains of the West MacDonnells and the Heavitree Range. 

For all but the first kilometre, the ride is inside Tjorita/West MacDonnell National Park, winding between low hills but making few climbs of its own. The open landscape is brightened by ghost gums, desert bloodwoods and the lavender-like flowers of the mulla mulla. There are two picnic tables (with bike racks) tucked into the shade of ghost gums along the path, and a 1.8km walking trail to Cassia Hill (named for cassia shrubs that cover it) that starts from the path’s edge as it makes its final turn towards Simpsons Gap.

The last 700m of the ride is on a roadside bike lane (where it also crosses the Larapinta Trail), ending in the Simpsons Gap car park, from where it’s a 400m stroll along the sandy creek bed to the Gap. This break in the mountains creates a spectacular scene – in full sun, the orange cliffs seem to glow like coals above the permanent pool (swimming is banned) inside the gorge. Black-footed rock wallabies are commonly seen among the rocks that litter the slopes outside its mouth. With average summer temperatures reaching 36°C, this is a path best pedalled in the cooler winter months.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Rottnest Island

Distance: 4-22km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

Picture an island in the Indian Ocean fringed with 63 beaches, where the only motorised traffic is a bus, and an island-based rental company has almost 2000 bikes in its fleet. Welcome to the cycling beauty of Rottnest Island. Perth’s favourite holiday island is one of the country’s most bike-friendly destinations. Sealed roads run to its myriad beaches, and climbs of any note are rare, with the island barely peeping above the sea – its highest point is just 46m above sea level. Three cycling routes are promoted on the island, from a 4km Rotto Mini Loop to a 22km Island Ride that runs the length and width of the island.

All routes begin in The Settlement, where ferries from Perth and Fremantle dock. The Island Ride’s end goal is Cape Vlamingh, at Rottnest’s western tip, home to a colony of New Zealand fur seals as well as a boardwalk with clifftop views. This ride skirts Rottnest’s south and north coasts, which have their own distinctive characters. The north coast is more developed, with beaches such as Pinky Beach and Geordie Bay backed by tourist apartments and campgrounds. The south coast feels more remote, but each beach has its own individual attraction – there are remnants of a shipwreck at Henrietta Rocks, and a popular snorkelling trail at Little Salmon Bay.

Almost every beach has bike racks, making it possible to while away an entire day on the Island Ride, but other than a coffee van at Cape Vlamingh and a general store at Geordie Bay, there are no dining or drinking options outside of The Settlement, so plan ahead if setting out for the day.

Munda Biddi Trail

Distance: 1060km Grade: Advanced Bike: MTB/Gravel

Taking its cues and the general course of its route from the hikers’ Bibbulmun Track, the off-road Munda Biddi Trail is one of Australia’s great cycling journeys. Beginning in Mundaring in the Perth Hills, it finishes in faraway Albany, on Western Australia’s south coast. Along the way, it ventures through the spectacular forests – an enchanted land of karri, tingle, marri and jarrah trees – and along the state’s southern shores.

Running parallel to the Bibbulmun, the Munda Biddi (a name meaning ‘path through the forest’ in the local Noongar language) was purpose-designed for mountain biking and is thus one of the best equipped long-distance trails in the country. Though towns are up to 100km apart – about a two-day ride for most cyclists in this terrain – campsites have been spaced a day’s ride apart along the length of the trail (the longest gap is about 77km). Most of the campsites are exclusive to the trail, and feature covered sleeping shelters (accommodating up to 25 people), tent sites, rainwater tanks, picnic tables and bike storage shelters.

If you set out to average 50km a day – a reasonable ask in this terrain – it’s about a three-week ride to ride end to end, though the regular presence of towns makes it possible to ride single sections or complete the trail across a series of rides.

Enticing shorter sections include the forest delights from Manjimup to Pemberton (83km), and similar green goodness from Pemberton to Walpole (175km), or the coastal home stretch from Walpole to Albany (224km), which passes through the Valley of the Giants (with its treetop walk) and the town of Denmark.

Gibb River Road

Distance: 660km Grade: Advanced Bike: Gravel/MTB

The Gibb River Road is one of Australia’s most iconic outback routes. Stretching 660 kilometres from Kununurra on the WA/NT border to Derby in far north Western Australia, it transects the heart of the one of the country’s most rugged and remote regions: the Kimberley.

With its plunging waterholes, deep gorges and palm-fringed oases, and its dusty plains, sandstone ranges and bare knuckles of glowing rock, the Gibb has long been a magnet for four-wheel drivers seeking adventure. There are no towns along the road – just a sprinkling of huge cattle stations (most with supplies/water) and remote Aboriginal communities. 

But it’s no longer as rough as it once was; the road has been upgraded dramatically over recent years and in the middle of the dry season (May-October) it’s even occasionally negotiated in a 2WD. However, despite much of the road being in reasonable condition, it remains primarily unsealed, and is still famed for its rocks, bulldust and, most significantly, bone-rattling corrugations. (Run tubeless tyres to minimise the chance of punctures.)

Cycle tourers have similarly been attracted to the Gibb River Road. Many do it on mountain bikes; others on touring or gravel bikes. Two weeks is a commonly suggested duration for the trip. It can be done more quickly, however, and a week is possible if you’re strong. Make sure you travel in the right direction, though. Winds in the dry season (May to September; the only time possible to ride the GRR) are overwhelmingly easterlies; go from Kununurra to Derby, with consistent tailwinds at your back, and it feels like you’re cruising a constant 2 per cent downhill grade.

QUEENSLAND

Brisbane Valley Rail Trail

Distance: 161km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel/MTB

Australia’s longest rail trail begins its journey in rural Yarraman and finishes in Wulkuraka, at the suburban edge of Ipswich, less than an hour’s drive from Brisbane’s city centre. Traffic-free along its length, the trail descends through the Brisbane Valley as the river flows towards Brisbane, though the views are so faithfully rural that the presence of a city feels like a myth.

From Yarraman, the trail sets out through bush and cattle country, beginning its biggest descent (the trail drops approximately 350m between Yarraman and Wulkuraka) in Benarkin. This descent ends 18km later in Linville, a likely stopping point for the first night. The Brisbane River is first sighted beyond Linville, and not seen again until Lowood, around 85km later, leaving farmland and dry bush to dominate the views throughout. The old railway’s greatest legacy, beside the gentle gradients, is the Yimbun Tunnel, which bores through the hills for 100m just beyond Harlin.

The unsealed trail is lined with old railway trestle bridges that once spanned the many deep gullies that furrow the land, though the ride typically drops into the gullies, creating a series of short, steep descents and climbs that have many cyclists dismounting to push their bikes. The ride is lined with small towns – Blackbutt, Linville, Moore, Harlin, Toogoolawah, Esk, Coominya, Lowood, Fernvale – making it easy to structure days and to find food, rest stops and accommodation along the way. The greatest distance between towns is 24km. A private shuttle service, run by Out There Cycling, operates along the length of the trail.

Atherton Forest Mountain Bike Park

Distance: 54.4km Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Atherton is about an hour inalnd from the Tropical North Queensland ‘capital’ of Cairns, on the tablelands at a lofty 800 metres above sea level. Atherton is less busy (and a lot smaller) than Cairns, but with one big cycling-based asset: this town of 7000 is home to one of Australia’s most sensational trail networks – the Atherton Mountain Bike Park.

Atherton meets all the ‘successful mountain bike town’ criteria: a great climate, awesome terrain, and the chance to ride to the trail network directly from town. Indeed, the trailhead (with change rooms and bike-wash facilities) is right on the main street, with the link trail out to the network, for easy trail access/return. The 54.4km trail network sprawls over Baldy Mountain Forest Reserve and Herberton Range State Forest. Most of the riding is ‘flow’ trail, best suited to cross-country or trail bikes. There’s nothing too technical, although the ease with which you garner speed should be enough to keep you focused. 

You will find the easier trails in the lowlands, while the intermediate trails cloverleaf off, taking you out into the hills. It’s a smart layout that’s ideal for groups of mixed abilities; in short, everyone has an awesome time riding, regardless of mismatched skill levels. The official trail maps are numbered; highlights include the bobsled descent of Trail 9 and the epic Trail 12, which loops off onto a life-changing descent and a scenic, gradual climb that takes you to the park’s highest point. For shorter loops, climb up to The Roundabout, and link up Trails 6 and 7.

Glass House Mountains Loop

Distance: 61km Grade: Intermediate Bike: Gravel/Hybrid

The craggy peaks of the Glass House Mountains are the slalom posts on this loop ride, which combines a rail trail with roads that thread between the striking volcanic mountains. It begins in Caboolture on the Caboolture-Wamuran Rail Trail, a 10.5km sealed path into Wamuran. After a quick pedal (4km) along the D’Aguilar Highway, the ride turns away again, onto the unsealed Wamuran Forest trail, which continues to follow a disused rail corridor through the Beerburrum West State Forest. Approaching the town of D’Aguilar, the ride swings north, beginning the approach to the Glass House Mountains.

Weaving through more state forest, the ride takes to Beerburrum-Woodford Rd, finally arriving at the mountains on Old Gympie Rd, which is laid out like a grey carpet between the peaks. Through breaks in the forest along this sealed road, Mt Tibrogargan rises to the east, with Mt Coonowrin and Mt Ngungun beckoning you on ahead. It’s worth making the 1.5km detour to the Glass House Mountains Lookout Cafe, with its caffeinated view of Coonowrin. The Glass House Mountains Lookout is another 1km beyond if you really fancy another view – and another 70m of climbing.

Turning towards the town of Glass House Mountains on Coonowrin Rd, there’s a roadside bike path, squeezing between Tibrogargan and Ngungun, with the chance to double back to Ngungun, where a 2.8km return walking trail ascends to the summit for one of the area’s signature views. Joining busier roads in the Glass House Mountains township itself, it’s a single-minded 20km return to Caboolture, passing through the town of Beerburrum.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Mawson Trail

Distance: 900km Grade: Advanced Bike: MTB/Gravel

Stretching from Adelaide’s outskirts to Blinman, this mighty off-road ride is as challenging as it is scenic, traversing the Adelaide Hills, cutting through the wine regions of the Barossa and Clare valleys, and rolling towards its finish beside the outback peaks of the Flinders Ranges. It begins at the foot of the Adelaide Hills, setting off immediately into perhaps its most difficult climb to Lobethal – there are pinches above 20 per cent gradient to test your early resolve.

Beyond Mt Crawford, the trail dips into the Barossa Valley, passing through a world of cellar doors as it wriggles through Tanunda and Nuriootpa to Kapunda. In Auburn, 65km beyond Kapunda, it momentarily takes things easy as it joins the sealed Riesling Trail to Clare (another day, another wine region), before beginning a wildly circuitous path across the Mid North – between Burra and Spalding, the trail covers around 130km, though the towns are just 40km apart by road.

From Laura, the trail rolls along beside the mountains, passing beneath Mt Remarkable (the Southern Flinders Ranges’ highest peak) and making its way towards the desert country – and the associated sandy and corrugated tracks – of the Flinders Ranges. The final 300km are the Mawson Trail’s coup de grace, following the red line of the Flinders Ranges past Wilpena Pound and up to the pub door in Blinman.

Towns appear regularly, though there are gaps of more than 100km, making detailed planning prudent, especially around access to water and accommodation. Avoid riding this trail through the baking summer, while the winter mud can be thick and impassable – I once snapped two rear derailleurs in a day in the Mawson’s gelatinous mud.

Melrose

Distance: 230m-6.6km Grade: Easy to Advanced Bike: MTB

Scratched into the slopes of Mt Remarkable, the tallest peak in the southern Flinders Ranges, the Melrose trail network covers around 100km, split into three sections: Melrose Town Trails, Bartagunyah and Willowie Forest. The Melrose Town Trails form the heart of the network. Leaving from the very centre of town, they set off in all directions across and up the slopes of the mountain. The signature trails are arguably Weaving Camels and Dodging Bullets. The former is a 1km blue (intermediate) trail that rolls along the banks of Willochra Creek, set beautifully among large river red gums and functioning as an access trail to the southern end of the network. Here, the blue Big Rhua and a selection of black trails coil up the slopes to Wilburs Watch, a ridge-top building with extensive views over Melrose and the flat earth well beyond.

Dodging Bullets is a playful Black run that dips through a concrete pipe and, near its end, cuts through the middle of a tumbledown farmhouse – how many chances will you ever get to ride through a house? The Town Trails are, by nature, exposed, with trails hanging over steep drops. The giddying sense of exposure, more than any technical trickery, means many trails are graded higher than they might be on less precipitous terrain.

Willowie Forest, 8km north of town, has good offerings for novice riders, especially on the flowing Twisted Sisters. Bartagunyah, on a private property 5km south of town, is a more unmaintained, rough-and-ready collection of trails.

Encounter Bikeway

Distance: 31km Grade: Easy Bike: Any

Showing off one of South Australia’s favourite holiday coasts, this seaside cycle stretches along the southern edge of the Fleurieu Peninsula, taking in the likes of Victor Harbor, Port Elliot and Middleton Beach as it journeys from The Bluff to Goolwa. From a car park on the slopes of The Bluff (it’s worth walking to the top of the 97m-high headland for a view over Encounter Bay and much of the ride ahead), the bikeway drops to the shores of Encounter Bay, following a foreshore path into Victor Harbor.

As Victor’s causeway stretches across the water to Granite Island, the ride turns with the coast, continuing to run pinched between the sand and the town. Crossing under a railway bridge and over the Hindmarsh River, the ride becomes a combination of bike paths and streets, but it always stays close to the coast – if you’re riding between May and September, keep a watch on the sea, especially along Boomer and Basham beaches, where southern right whales are regularly sighted.

The ride stays with the coast to Middleton, where it cuts briefly inland to Goolwa, the town sitting on the final bend in the Murray River’s long journey – the river mouth is just 10km away from here. The bikeway heads upstream from Goolwa, finishing abruptly and anticlimactically at Laffin Point. A more fitting finish is at the Goolwa Wharf (3.5km before Laffin Point), beside the Hindmarsh Island Bridge. It’s home to a distillery, eateries and a cellar door/craft brewer. Time the ride right and you (and your bike) can return to Victor Harbor on the Cockle Train, riding Australia’s oldest steel-railed railway.

Want more awesome bike rides? Grab yourself a copy of Australia’s Best 100 Bike Rides here.

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Until as recently as the early 1900s, those traditional tide drifters were navigating the whirlpools here, riding over giant bubble-pop boils and whooshing past hamster-wheel waves kicked up by submerged rocks. They harnessed those monstrous currents to travel, trade and forage in one of the most remote places on earth. Yet their saltwater story is only just being told to a modern audience – over the sound of twin-propeller engines labouring against those same powerful currents like a four-wheel-drive churning through sand. Dressed in a bright turquoise shirt that matches the colour of the water, Rosanna retraces the aquatic journeys of her ancestors and invites the curious onto Sunday Island. She knows it as Ewuny, a boulder-stacked place where three clans once lived – a place that can now only be accessed with a Traditional Owner (TO). En route, Rosanna hands me a binder folder bloated with plastic slips. I leaf through black-and-white photographs of people wearing hair belts threaded with riji (carved pearl shells), of rectangular, round-edged grass huts, and of the mission established after first contact in 1899. Nature and storytelling act as a bridge across time.

Access to such other-worldly stories is not what Broome and its surrounding baked red lands are known for. The bustling holiday town’s image is one of lustrous pearls, “flop-and-drop” poolside escapes and camel trains on Cable Beach. Yet more than 40,000 years’ worth of history is in Broome’s palm and at its ochre fingertips. Although hordes of jetsetters and cruise travellers swoop in on Kimberley bucket-list sites, comparatively few venture beyond the town’s sandy perimeter and even fewer onto traditional lands. Visitors might notice the town’s visibly multicultural mix, which is a legacy of frontier fortune-hunters and indentured workers. But there’s little recognition that some 84 First Nations communities are in the sweeping net thrown by the Shire of Broome. That’s despite the latest visitor research showing more than 80 per cent of people coming to WA want an experience with the world’s oldest continuing culture. Desire hasn’t translated to success, with less than 17 per cent of visitors managing to have that experience. 

But those giant Kimberley tides are turning. A record 10 Aboriginal tourism businesses are now operating in Broome, and another 22 speckle its northern reaches, making genuine First Nations interactions more accessible than ever before. The WA Indigenous Tourism Operators Council (WAITOC), in step with the WA state government, has an ambitious goal for the state to become the nation’s leading destination for authentic Aboriginal tourism. Called the Jina Plan, which broadly translates to “discoveries”, it will allow more TOs to share their stories and stay on Country. And that means a different picture is being painted that’s changing the face of Rubibi, the destination otherwise known as Broome.

Before the town’s establishment was even dreamt of, Aboriginal clans lived seasonally along Roebuck Bay, where Broome’s resorts, pubs and pearl boutiques now stand. The region’s pearl shell had sacred status and, astonishingly, has been found right across Australia, including in the desert. There’s evidence it was carved, worn and traded, and used for ritual, ceremony and law, for more than 22,000 years. This makes it one of the world’s earliest forms of currency. Disruption of Aboriginal occupation began in the mid-1800s. There were bloody frontier conflicts with explorers and pastoralists, but it was the ‘discovery’ by Europeans here of the world’s largest mother-of-pearl shell species that changed the First Nations story forever. From the 1860s onwards, many Indigenous people were used as slave labour to dive deeper and for longer than what, in many cases, was humanly (or humanely) possible. After the turn of the century, 80 per cent of the world’s mother-of-pearl shell – fashioned into buttons – came from about 400 luggers working out of Broome. The impact on the landscape and its people was dramatic.

“The pearling fleet used the site where the Mangrove Hotel is now as their landmark; it was a beacon when coming in from the sea,” says Yawuru man Bart Pigram as he leads a gang of adventurers in neoprene booties to places they’d never otherwise go. We walk along a red sandy stretch below a row of pool-fronted hotels. The 2km route Bart traces several times a week runs through the low-tide ecosystem edging Roebuck Bay, where the luggers once crowded. “From here you can look back to a dune that’s a protected site. Cockle and pipi shells are strewn everywhere there, showing evidence of Aboriginal activity over millennia,” he says. “You’re looking at the first contact site right there.”

Turning into a wide swathe of mangroves glowing in hues of chartreuse, we’re met with limbs that stretch above our heads and roots that loop from our ankles to our knees, and we connect with the time before Broome was Broome. We squelch through mudflats, listening to Dreaming stories explaining the placement of freshwater springs and how a lone rock island came to be. We happen across a rare baler shell, a snail-like sea creature the size of a child’s head. It was so called by Europeans who saw Aboriginal people bailing water out of canoes with them. “I’ve only seen three of those in the past 20 years here; they’re very, very rare,” Bart says, as he snaps a photo. “They used to be everywhere.”

Bart is the first of a new breed of younger operators testing Broome’s tourism waters. In 2015 the 41-year-old co-curated a podcast project designed to act as a free, self-guided walk for visitors. It sparked something in him he hadn’t expected. “Hearing the stories of 27 Elders of Broome – of all different races – made me feel like we needed to do more on this area,” he says. “A lot of the focus was on Cable Beach.” Hearing people still wanted live commentary, he began running cultural walking tours – Narlijia Experiences Broome – that same year. “There was a massive gap and a huge demand,” he says. “The market was crying out for Aboriginal experiences. It just hasn’t been accessible.” 

In the past five years, Bart says the number of cultural businesses has jumped significantly. Once COVID restrictions lifted, word began to spread. He’s hopeful it’s the dawning of a new age. “I’ve always had the vision of – instead of having camels on Cable Beach – Aboriginal tourism being just as iconic to the Kimberley and Broome as camels or pearls,” he says. “I think we’ll get close in the next five years.”

Bart is well placed to realise his vision. In 2023 he became the first Aboriginal person to be appointed to Australia’s North West Tourism Board. He sees his role as a cultural go-between, connecting Indigenous and non-Indigenous tourism players so the two can build mutual understandings and prosper together. “The Kimberley is 98 per cent native title land,” he says. “Now we are stakeholders. A lot of Broome’s big businesses want to work with Aboriginal communities and operators.”

The town’s first Indigenous co-owned craft brewery is a prime example. Spinifex Brewing Co. is no backyard operation, with the business entering the export market this year. Their products are stocked in 60 IGA stores in WA, and the company aspires for them to be served on national flights. The CEO, Adam Barnard, says its focus on developing Indigenous employment is as strong as its love for making low-alcohol beers infused with native produce. Launched in 2019, Spinifex Brewing has engaged some 200 First Nations people to collect gubinge (Kakadu plum), a fruit used in its non-alcoholic ginger beer, and partners with an Aboriginal family-owned farm growing lemon myrtle, Geraldton wax and wattle. When it swapped its pop-up premises for a 4500sq.m dedicated space a block from Cable Beach in December 2023 (supported by a WA state government grant of almost $2 million), the brewery planted a food forest of Indigenous botanicals that will soon be harvested and used as an education resource. Fittingly, the spent grain will be fed to the Red Sun camel trains that pass the location each day. 

Perhaps most significantly, Spinifex Brewing is working with Broome’s North Regional TAFE to provide apprenticeships and employment for Aboriginal hospitality students. As I sip a Cable Beach Sunset Ale in Broome’s balmy air, Adam says the brewery aims to create supply chains that will fuel First Nations enterprise. “The bigger picture is that we’re trying to create change,” he says. “We want to support the formation of new Aboriginal businesses, and empower them to separate from the business so that we can then subcontract them.” 

Crocodile wrangler Johani Mamid is another driver of Broome’s new identity, where business smarts and social enterprise combine with the poetry of culture. The Yawuru, Karajarri, Nyul Nyul and Bardi man, who was born and raised in the town, started Rubibi’s only public maru (corroboree) experience in 2022. The dancing ground is found on Broome’s outskirts, fringing the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park where Johani works. 

A small sign for Mabu Buru Tours winks from the highway, catching my eye as I overshoot the entrance. I relatch the gate after entering and follow a dirt track through the bush to a clearing, where damper cooks on coals and water boils for billy tea. 

Traditional maru is rarely shared beyond language groups; unveiling it, Johani says, is part of a gentle reconciliation. “What we share is what we do when we’re catching up with family,” he says. “We’re actually practising our culture; it’s not put together for the sake of tourism. We invite you to be part of our family for the afternoon.” The performance is true to form: as Johani recounts Dreaming stories, Karajarri Elder Uncle Mervyn Mulardy interjects, ironing out creases in the tale. “Our mob never had a library; it’s up here,” Johani says as he taps his head. “So we’ve got to pass on the knowledge of that library.”

The duo tell their lighthearted stories in stages, interspersed with song and dance. It’s slow paced, almost meditative; a sense of calm falls over us as the sting of the dry-season sun softens. Two Pintirri dancers emerge, holding white-painted spears adorned with feathers. White body paint frames their faces and torsos, with white cloths doubled over at the knees and tied at the waist. They sing and stamp their feet, using boomerangs as clapsticks. Each role, from damper to dancing, is designed with empowering outcomes in mind. “Adding the cooking element brings in more family,” Johani says. “With the dancing, the younger fellas do it better than the older men. They’re practising their culture at the same time and that builds pride.” 

It goes further. Mabu Buru has been set up as a foundation, with 50 per cent of its earnings going towards ceremonial practices and the community. Families have been brought out on Country for the first time in decades. “The legacy of Mabu Buru Tours has been to become a social enterprise with self-determination, finding solutions for ourselves,” Johani says. “We’ve found a potential solution to living in these two worlds.” 

A minute or two by car from Mabu Buru’s base camp  lies the start of the long, outback road into Ardi, the great north-eastern slab of cinnamon-stained land commonly known as the Dampier Peninsula. For decades, the main arterial route linking Broome with First Nations communities, remote coastal camps and a pioneering pearl farm was etched with deeply corrugated red dirt – the kind that makes your teeth jar. The decision to lay some $65 million-worth of bitumen on the 200km stretch was a big deal, and took two years to complete. The sealed Broome–Cape Leveque Road was finished in November 2020, only for COVID to prolong its widespread use until WA’s hard border reopened in March 2022. Its significance can’t be overstated. It opens up access to First Nations culture like never before. 

For Bardi woman Pat Channing and her husband, Dave, the newly sealed road has halved her travel time to her ancestral land. “It’s an enormous difference with the road being sealed,” she says. “The number of people visiting now has increased three or four times. The other day I even saw a motorbike!” 

Indeed, the Cape Leveque Road can now be tackled in a 2WD, so long as dry seasonal conditions prevail. A 4WD is still recommended for destinations along its longer, sandy side routes. The Channings’ Mercedes Cove Exclusive Coastal Retreat is one such spot, found 33km off the bitumen. The couple cleared a bush site to build their home more than two decades ago. “The road was terrible when we first came up,” Pat says, remembering blown tyres. “It would take three hours if I was driving – four if someone else was,” Dave chimes in. The couple opened their headland perch to camping in 2007 and added cabins soon after. Their maximum capacity is 18. “I wanted to share Country with people and teach them a little about bush foods, or who I am and where I came from,” Pat says. “I wanted to show wider society that, as Aboriginal people, we can achieve what we want to achieve, using the land as a tool to get where we want to go.”

Bardi woman Pat Channing (left) has run Mercedes Cove Exclusive Coastal Retreat with her husband, Dave, for 16 years; Master hunter Bolo Angus (right) is a Bardi Jawi man whose warm, inclusive nature makes those on his foraging tours feel at ease. His 4WD adventures finish with a feast of treacle-laden damper and hot-to-touch crab claws, all cooked over a crackling fire.

Pat’s story is typical of many families who grew up in pre-1967 racially segregated Broome. Her Malaysian father, who arrived with the pearling fleet, was often torn away at night by police, whose torchlight flashed around the family home as they searched for him. Pat’s Aboriginal mum could only marry Pat’s father with the approval of a white Australian. 

It wasn’t until Pat was born, the third of 10 kids, that the two gained permission – until then, her dad was regularly thrown in jail for spending nights with her mum. “I got upset by that for maybe a couple of years, then I decided to use it as a tool to go forward,” says Pat, who is comfortable recounting her personal history, including her grandmother’s Stolen Generation experience, to guests. “I don’t open up and talk about it, but if they ask, I will,” she says. Pat says her mother, Mercedes, pushed her kids to learn and ensured they spoke English. “She’d say, ‘Education is your key: you’ve got to do better than, or equal to, a white person.’”

Pat’s strong work ethic has seen her recently invited to be a tourism mentor. It’s something “Mum Pat” has long been doing informally with Rosanna Angus, of the tide drifters, who was named Australia’s best tour guide at the Top Tourism Towns Awards in September 2023. Pat also encourages Rosanna’s equally enigmatic brother, Bolo, who is teaching the next generation – his daughters, Makah, Malati and Maureen – how to lead his popular tag-along 4WD tours, spearing mud crabs in mangroves, digging up edible tuber roots and racing hermit crabs. As an experienced business owner, Pat understands the importance of reliability – something Aboriginal tourism in the region has often grappled with. “You’ve got to be 110 per cent committed,” she says. “You can’t just decide you don’t feel like it one day.” 

With traffic increasing along the Cape Leveque Road, consistency will undoubtedly be tested. Further north, Lombadina Aboriginal Community is expecting tourism numbers to rise dramatically once its new camping ground, part of WA’s Camping with Custodians initiative, opens in May this year – the second on the peninsula in as many years. It’s only 3km off the bitumen. 

“A lot more people have come already – a lot more caravans and campers – because with the sealed road, they can,” says Garry Sibosado, a pearl shell carver who carries on the Bardi people’s unbroken riji tradition from a tin shed with his brother, Darrell. The two are widely exhibited artists and plan to incorporate large-scale public art into the new camping ground, creating a trail leading guests into the community. “It’s educating people,” Darrell says. “People assume Aboriginal art is dots – that’s what they know. People also don’t realise they’ve travelled through five different nations to get here.” 

If anyone straddles two worlds, it’s Terry Hunter and James Brown. Best friends since childhood, the barefoot pair went to school in a corrugated tin hut on James’s family pearl farm, a 20-minute drive from Lombadina. Terry’s Bardi Jawi family showed James how to spear, fed him hot damper with tinned jam, and taught him the sentiment of liyarn, which he says is “making a decision so the feeling inside you is right”. 

The Brown family, who began pearling in 1946, have a long history of positive collaboration with Aboriginal people – so much so that they were shunned by the white community. “The Brown family did something that no other European had done in that era: go out and look for Aboriginal families and hold them close,” Terry explains. 

James, who is Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm’s managing director, is quietly continuing that legacy. “The plan was that the next generation would always have somewhere they could work,” he says. Terry is the fourth generation of his family involved with the property. “Terry’s the first to have started his own business, a tourism business,” says James, whose team supports Terry, Rosanna Angus and other Traditional Owners with booking systems, boat access, staffing, locations, venues and marketing, helping ensure their product is reliable, accessible, and possible. “I see it as a natural evolution of the relationship that’s been there for a long time,” James says.

Terry delivers lively pearl-farm tours and, for the past three years, has been leading his own experience, Borrgoron Coast to Creek Tours, seeking out traditional food while sharing bush magic. 

“This out here is my school,” he says, sweeping his hands around the ribbed tidal flats revealed by receding sea water that has also uncovered rocks made gritty and sharp with oyster shells. “People think the oysters are dead when the rocks are dry. But they’re all alive and good to eat.” At first, Terry employs modern harvesting methods. “I’ve got good traditional tools here – a hammer and chisel from Bunnings,” he deadpans, while tapping a rock-bound shell until the lid lifts off. 

Next, he demonstrates the traditional way. Gathering a swag-sized bundle of spinifex, he lays the needle-tipped grass over an oyster-smothered rock and sets it alight. “You’re told never to play with fire, right? As kids, one of the first things we learn is how to use fire. It’s very important,” he says, stepping back from the intense heat as oysters whistle and fizz. “At every camp along the coast you won’t find any rock oyster shells,” he says. Lids pop while shells remain in place; I scoop the hot oyster flesh, sweet, salty and infused with smoke – it’s staggeringly good. “I don’t see this as work,” Terry says. “I’m just home.”

As with every operator I speak to, Terry senses that the growth in First Nations tourism is changing the way people see Broome and its environs. “I’ve seen a difference in the way travellers interact now with Broome. People are looking for culture and history,” he says, happy that access to it is growing. “Personally, it makes me feel so proud. I get to express myself and share my knowledge that has been handed down to me, so if someone walks away with that better understanding, it makes my day.” With that, Terry says, his liyarn blooms. “I want you to come with it, and leave with the liyarn, the good gut feeling,” he says. “It’s all about sharing.”

Australian Geographic Travel is proud to be partnering with Rosanna Angus on a Women-Only Exclusive Oolin Sunday Island Tour. Read more about this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

The post A new Broome appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Drake Passage is, well, an explorer’s milestone, for most travellers to Antarctica keen to view the world’s last truly untamed wilderness. But it’s not always pleasant. Voyaging across Drake Passage can be a tumultuous trip lasting days which discourages many from visiting the White Continent. While the timeless appeal of exploring the endless kingdom of ice, snow and dramatic mountains which soar thousands of metres above sea level is indisputable, this ocean crossing trepidation is a very real deterrent. There’s also the consideration of ‘losing’ valuable holiday time while crossing the Drake when you could be exploring Antarctica instead. If you’re prone to seasickness, a multi-day ocean crossing seems even less appealing.

What if you could avoid the ocean crossing altogether and fly to Antarctica instead? Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic has created alluring Antarctic expedition cruises on National Geographic Explorer which do just that, starting in November 2024. Enticing options are available to cruise one way and fly the other or fly both ways. You can now bypass the infamous Drake Passage altogether and take a scenic two-hour flight instead with the 8-Day Antarctica Direct: Fly the Drake Passage. Flights depart from Puerto Natales in Chile, landing at King George Island in the South Shetland Islands. Flying to Antarctica offers not only offers a less time-consuming way to travel, but you’ll also enjoy a rare aerial view of both Chile and Antarctica which only a privileged few get to see.

Your Antarctic adventure departs from the small fishing town of Puerto Natales, which is also the gateway to the famed Torres del Paine National Park and the Patagonian Fjords – a win-win if you want to combine your Antarctica expedition with a Chilean hiking adventure. From Puerto Natales it’s just a two-hour flight across Drake Passage to King George Island where National Geographic Explorer awaits. King George Island is home to large numbers of Weddell and elephant seals along with important penguin breeding colonies, so your Antarctic adventure begins immediately.

Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

If you choose to cruise one way and fly the other on the 10-Day Antarctica Direct: Sail and Fly the Drake Passage voyage, you’ll feel the excitement build crossing Drake Passage as the magnificent White Continent looms on the horizon. During the crossing, take advantage of leisurely sea days to look for sea birds which soar gracefully above ocean swells or simply savour the views of ocean and sea all the way to the horizon. Visit the bridge for the best view of wildlife such as South American sea lion or brush up on polar history and exploration in the extensive library. Lectures too are an integral part of Drake Passage crossings as naturalists and Antarctic experts provide fascinating insights into all that lies ahead as National Geographic Explorer approaches Antarctica.

Image credits: Lindblad Expeditions.

From November 2024 Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic offers two time-efficient Antarctic expedition options with Antarctica Direct: Fly the Drake Passage (8 days) along with Antarctica Direct: Sail and Fly the Drake Passage (10 days). Both incorporate dedicated charter flights – one way or return – between Puerto Natales and King George Island, which is a short hop across to the Antarctic Peninsula proper.

These all-new expeditions encourage adventurous, inquisitive travellers to share in the thrill of uncovering untouched places and the wilderness secrets of the peninsula’s northwest coast. Taking full advantage of extended daylight hours between November and February, days are filled with Zodiac excursions which sometimes depart late in the evening when icy landscapes are tinted in dusky sunset pastels. Excursions are led by expert guides and naturalists with specialist knowledge of Antarctica, its intriguing history and unique wildlife.

Image credit: Lindblad Expeditions

Lindblad Expeditions was founded on responsible ecotourism more than 55 years ago with a belief that travel can be a transformative force for good. Expeditions are equally entertaining, educational and informative. Supporting research and conservation projects which align with responsible tourism lies at the forefront of all expeditions. For example, Lindblad collects hydrographic data to map fragile Antarctic Peninsula regions, is a founding member of IAATO (the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators) and supports global conservation, visiting scientist research programs and provides a platform for citizen science research through Happy Whale and e-Bird projects. Preserving Antarctica’s pristine environment while also providing immersive experiences led by expert guides is at the heart of all expeditions. Visiting these wild places with Lindblad encourages travellers to create treasured memories but so too helps minimise their own environmental footprint in delicate wilderness areas

“Antarctica is so powerful as a destination,” says Founder and CEO Sven-Olof Lindblad. “On my first visit I didn’t sleep for two days I was so mesmerised.” He adds that Antarctica is a life-changing experience which is now available to all travellers with the addition of Drake Passage flights. “I have seen a lot of travellers over the years transformed by their Antarctic travel experience. Now, we are broadening the opportunities for a wider segment of society to have that same life-changing experience.”

Operating as a carbon-neutral company committed to reducing its footprint, Lindblad Expeditions-National Geographic operates a fleet of ice-strengthened ships. National Geographic Explorer has travelled from Arctic to Antarctic regions and is equipped with polar-specific equipment such as kayaks, a fleet of Zodiacs and a Remotely Operated Vehicle (ROV) which offers low impact viewing and research into Antarctica’s little-seen undersea world.

Bypassing Drake Passage allows travellers to spend more time viewing these wild places. But it wasn’t always so. Drake Passage is a 1000km wide deepwater passage (which is considered narrow in oceanographic terms) between Tierra del Fuego’s Cape Horn and the Shetland Islands. The passage played a significant role during the heady days of maritime trade during the 19^th and 20^th centuries before the Panama Canal opened in 2014 and provided a more efficient trade route. Its formidable reputation comes from Southern Ocean swells and prevailing westerly winds which meet at the confluence of the South Pacific and Atlantic Oceans in a sort of choke point. Wind and waves get ‘squeezed’ into Drake Passage as they surge around the globe. Today’s modern expedition ships offer a monumentally different experience to explorers of old. Modern technology such as stabilisers and fuel-efficient power systems ensure a significantly more comfortable and sea-kindly motion which enhances passenger comfort and ensures a relatively swift crossing. Whether conditions are benign – known as the Drake Lake – or boisterous – known as the Drake Shake – crossing Drake Passage is one of those rare, treasured memories to last a lifetime. It is indisputably a highlight of any Antarctic voyage, whether by sea or by air.

Take advantage of this rare opportunity to fly across Drake Passage and begin your Antarctic adventure refreshed, relaxed and ready to explore from the moment you first glimpse the White Continent.

This article is brought to you by Lindblad Expeditions. For more information call 1300 362 012 or email expeditions@adventureworld.com

The post A new way to discover Antarctica: Fly over Drake Passage appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For wildlife spotters, the Northwest Territories is chock-full of amazing experiences. Seeing the huge reindeer herds of Inuvik, the muskox at Thaidene Nëné National Park Reserve, grizzly bears, wolves and caribou in a number of national parks, plus the famous wood bison, are all top-tier viewing experiences for wildlife aficionados – and they’re all found here in the NWT. Photo: Adam Pisani/NWTT

Remote river heaven

Naats’ihch’oh National Park Reserve contains another paddling epic, the Broken Skull River, a remote tributary of the Nahanni River that begins higher up in the alpine area of the Mackenzie Mountains. This river is ideally suited to intermediate paddlers, while offering a similar experience to the Nahanni, with  plenty of wildlife spotting, rapids-running (Grade II and III) hiking, and sublime riverside campsites each day.

Land of the ancestors

Thaidene Nëné (“Land of the ancestors”) National Park Reserve is Canada’s newest national park and covers 27,000km² of the East Arm of Great Slave Lake. Here, adventure is endless, with paddling, hiking, ice-fishing and snowshoeing, cultural experiences and fishing all available, thanks to the beautiful wildlife lodges, including that are found in this area. Yep, it’s definitely an outdoor heaven-on-earth.

The North’s workhorse

The vast expanse of the Northwest Territories, and the often rugged terrain, means bush-planes, either equipped with skis for landing on frozen lakes in winter, or floats for summer, are the go-to for supplying remote communities. They are also the best way to transport travellers to lakes, rivers and national parks for the start of their adventures. You can also jump on board for scenic flights, too, with these being a very popular way to see and understand the sheer size of the territory and some of its most famous natural wonders, such as a flight from Fort Simpson out to Virginia Falls and the Cirque of the Unclimbables, in Nahanni National Park Reserve.

The mighty Nahanni

Acclaimed around the world as “the greatest wilderness river on earth”, the South Nahanni River, winding through the Nahanni National Park Reserve, is (along with the national park, itself) not only one of the NWT’s natural wonders, but also one of its adventure jewels. It’s not hard to agree with that claim, either. When you can spend between seven and 21 days on this waterway, in a raft or a canoe, passing majestic rock formations (such as The Gate, pictured here), floating between 1000-metre tall cliffs, enjoying hikes to mountain-top viewpoints, spotting grizzly bears, wolves, bald eagles and more, you know it’s pretty darn special. Add in the majestic Virginia Falls which, at 90 metres tall, is twice as high as Niagara, and you can understand why this iconic wild waterway is on every active traveller’s bucket-list…

Unexpected delights

The Rabbitkettle tufa mound, in Nahanni National Park Reserve, is Canada’s largest. These mounds are created through the hardening through precipitation of dissolved minerals from thermal spring water (there are hot springs here as well), forming these natural terraces (some up to 30m high). They can be visited on a scenic flight tour into the national park. Colin Field/NWTT

Strength in culture

Experiencing the thriving Dene culture in NWT is an absolute must for visitors to fully appreciate the province, its land and people. From stories from long ago, to festivals and cultural-focused tours, visitors to the NWT have plenty of choices when it comes to cultural education – and having fun while doing it!

Great Canadian Trails presents: Canada’s Subarctic Aurora Borealis and National Parks

Guided walking, off-the grid cultural experiences and sightseeing out of the Northwest Territories’ world-renowned aurora-viewing capital.
Experience the spectacular sights of one of Canada’s most pristine and wild provinces with Great Canadian Trails. Amidst the mesmerising colours of the Northern Lights and the untamed wilds, this journey will take you through spectacular Thaidene Nëné, Wood Buffalo and Nahanni national parks. An impressive array of flora and fauna exists throughout this province, known for its nature photography and wildlife viewing. Bald eagle and bison, loon and muskox, bear, moose and wolf all make the province’s remote northern tundra regions their homes. Its location directly beneath the Earth’s “Auroral oval,” ensures many successive nights throughout the autumn and winter to marvel at the aurora’s intense and flickering dance. Your tour is timed to provide ample viewing opportunities of this natural wonder. A thrilling bush plane flight amidst breathtaking canyons will lead you to Nahanni NP’s awe-inspiring Virginia Falls.
Date: September 2022
Length: 17 days / 16 nights (hotels, B&Bs and private cabins), September 2022.
More info and bookings: www.greatcanadiantrails.com/private/KUVGKV

FACT FILE

Getting there: The NWT is reached via daily direct flights from Vancouver, Calgary and Edmonton. There are direct flights from Australia’s eastern seaboard to Vancouver.

Accommodation: Yellowknife has a range of quality hotels and other accommodation types. For those looking for hotel accommodation, both The Explorer Hotel and Chateau Nova Yellowknife are excellent.
To book any of the remote lodges mentioned or a Yellowknife hotel and aurora experience, contact your preferred Australian tour operator or travel agent specialising in Canada.

More info: NWT Tourism has an excellent website that is packed with info on traveling in the territory and how to experience it across all seasons. See www.spectacularnwt.com

The post The Northwest Territories: Head to Canada’s Far North for your next adventure appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In Western Australia you can savour the flavours of the Margaret River Region and wander through world-class vineyards cooled by ocean breezes. Or dive into an enchanting marine wonderland of colour and coral on the world’s largest fringing reef. Take time to breathe in the magic of the Kimberley where ancient stories meld with contrasting colours and textures. Feel the freedom of secluded sandy beaches or float in tranquil swimming holes. Hit the road less travelled and meet friendly locals eager to share their stories, bringing the landscape to life.

Though there are a million dreamlike reasons to experience Western Australia’s natural wonders, its ancient stories and tantalising cuisine, we’ve limited ourselves to eight. For now though, we’re pretty sure you’ll find it hard to stop at eight too.

1. See the wild dolphins of Monkey Mia and view UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Reef

For more than 50 years, wild bottlenose dolphins have been coming into the shallow waters of Monkey Mia. A daily feeding program is managed by the Parks and Wildlife Service, offering a unique opportunity to see these wondrous creatures in the wild. Take a wildlife cruise in Shark Bay World Heritage Area (Gathaagudu / Gutharraguda) on a purpose-built boat equipped with underwater observation windows, viewing vantage points and a boom net for those keen on ocean immersion.

To the north of Monkey Mia lies Ningaloo Reef (Nyinggulu), given UNESCO World Heritage status in 2011 for its diversity of marine life, striking cave fauna and the spectacular contrast between colourful underwater seascapes and the rugged landscape of Cape Range National Park.

Aerial view of the Ningaloo Reef coastline near the North Mandu campground; Aerial view of Monkey Mia, including the RAC Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

2. Admire the contrasts of Karijini National Park

Karijini National Park in the Pilbara region is part of the Hamersley Range and is Western Australia’s second- largest national park, covering a staggering 6274sq.km. Walking trails wind through the park, offering chances to see the park’s plentiful flora and fauna up close. Look for red kangaroos and rock wallabies. Echidnas and dingoes too. Waterholes and streams lure birdlife including the endemic spinifex pigeon with its prominent head crest.

Over 500 flora species have been documented, some of them extremely rare, across ecosystems which vary from semi-arid to tropical. Between June and September each year grass plains and fields burst into colour as the Pilbara wildflowers bloom. Look for purple mulla mulla, scarlet red Sturt’s desert pea and Wickham’s grevillea, the pink, purple and blue of Ashburton peas and the sunshine-yellow of Karijini wattles.

Natural spa pool located at Hamersley Gorge, Karijini National Park; Joffre Gorge, Karijini National Park. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

3. Soak in natural thermal springs and hike to Emma Gorge

Geothermal hot springs are the reward for a short walk through a pre-historic forest of livistona and pandanus palms at El Questro. Zebedee Springs is a series of year-round thermal pools and small waterfalls surrounded by a towering, lush rainforest. Feeling energised after your soak? Emma Gorge too rewards hikers with a waterhole fed by a towering droplet waterfall cascading down a 65-metre-tall sheer cliff.

Emma Gorge, El Questro Wilderness Park. Image credit: Tourism Western Australia

4. Watch the sunset over the Bungle Bungle Range

Dotted across 450sq. km, the mammoth domes of the Bungle Bungle Range are the red-carpet poster child for Purnululu National Park. The range commands the attention of nature lovers and photographers from across the globe. Deservedly so. Beehive-shaped massifs rise from river beds and valley floors eroded over 20 million years to construct an awe-inspiring majestic landscape.

The Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park; Cathedral Gorge, Purnululu National Park. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

Burbling creeks wind through gorges in the aptly- named natural amphitheatre of Cathedral Gorge, a vast cavern with acoustics to rival the best man-made opera houses. Walking trails follow the natural courses of streams such as Piccaninny Creek. Overhead, the famed orange and black horizontal ‘stripes’, or bands, of the Bungle Bungle domes cast an ochre hue across the landscape.

5. Swim in crystal clear waterholes shaded by paperbark trees

Deep in the heart of the Kimberley, gorges carve a swathe through the landscape, waterholes are filled with fresh water as clear as air and paperbark trees cast a shadow across rocky shorelines. Listen for the call of abundant birdlife lured to Manning Creek while you swim in the cooling water. Hike to another waterhole at Galvans Gorge where the pristine waters of the swimming hole lies beneath boab trees clinging to the sandstone escarpment above. Nearby, the mighty Durack River scribes a twisting route through Emma Gorge and the 2800-odd sprawling square kilometres of El Questro wilderness.

Tunnel Creek National Park (Dimalurru). Image credit: Tourism Western Australia

6. Admire the striking limestone karst of the Pinnacles

A short distance from the sparkling Indian Ocean which lines the Western Australian coast, striking limestone pillars rise from ever-shifting desert sands like golden-hued monoliths. Midway between Perth (Boorloo) and Geraldton (Jambinu), the Pinnacles of Nambung National Park are formed by wind erosion and water corrosion. In this dramatic landscape which resembles a petrified paleolithic garden, some formations stand several metres tall and wide. Speckled with shells, fossils and algal structures, these dense fields of spires are particularly attractive when the sun is low on the horizon and casts elongated shadows across amber sands.

The Pinnacles in Nambung National Park at sunset. Image caption: Tourism Western Australia

7. Admire ancient Aboriginal rock art of the Kimberley

The ancient rock art of the Kimberley, known as Gwion Gwion, were created by ancestors of the Balanggarra people. In 2020, Archaeologists with the Australian Research Council dated Gwion Gwion art to be between 12,000 and 17,000 years old. Wandjina paintings with their typically halo-like headpieces and mouthless faces are mere youngsters at around 4,000 years old.

Some of these galleries are best seen from off the coast, including sites such as Bigge Island where a network of caves are adorned with art created by the Wunambal people, including first contact pieces. See stunning Gwion Gwion and Wandjina art at sites amongst the maze of islands, inlets and peninsula of Swift Bay where art adorned rock overhangs.

Wandjina Aboriginal rock art, near Raft Point; Windjana Gorge, Windjana Gorge National Park. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

8. Taste the Margaret River Region’s world- famous wines

At the opposite end of the state, the coastal Margaret River Region is all about vines and wines with over 200 vineyards under production. The region’s maritime-influenced climate, soils and geographical landscape conspire alluringly to create ideal grape-growing conditions.

Cellar doors are dotted across the rolling hills between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, many with tasting rooms and restaurants to entice visitors to linger over tantalising lunches. The region is best known for its world-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, though in truth it’s hard to find a less-than-fabulous wine across any of Margaret River’s varietals.

Aerial view of car driving along Point Picquet at Eagle Bay Beach, Dunsborough. Aravina Estate, near Yallingup. Image credits: Tourism Western Australia

Vineyards such as Aravina Estate have created exceptional visitor experiences with winemakers conducting tours that include sampling wines direct from the barrels, or blending your own bottle before receiving a custom label. It’s a unique opportunity to take home your own bottle to share with friends or family.

Are you ready to step outside the everyday in Western Australia?

Get away from the well-known and well-trodden and recharge your spirit as you journey through this otherworldly landscape fringed by 12,500km of coastline, billions of years in the making. Start planning your dreamy Western Australia holiday today.

This article is brought to you by APT Luxury Travel. Visit us online, call 1800 829 896 or contact an APT Travel Expert.

The post Western Australia’s magical wonderland awaits – here are 8 experiences not to miss appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Time tends to stand still in the Kimberley, its wild and vast landscapes sculpted over thousands of years and are still relatively untouched. Waterfalls, gorges, eye-achingly beautiful coastlines, dimpled rock cliffs, momentous tides, ancient rock art and wildlife. The 30-minute EXPEDITION: Kimberley documentary shows in living, breathing, majestic colour – vibrant blues, verdant greens, ochre-red and sunset orange – what you can experience on a 10-day Kimberley adventure with Coral Expeditions.

An Australian-owned and operated company, Coral Expeditions has been exploring the ethereal Kimberley coastline for three decades. On those early exploratory voyages, Coral Expeditions’ crew relied on hand-drawn mud maps crafted using the expertise of local fishermen, to navigate this rugged, unknown coastline. Today, the knowledgeable Coral Expeditions team shines with Kimberley experts, who have all the tidal charts, maps, landing notes and local know-how that has evolved into incredible itineraries that allow guests to really experience this untamed land, from the spectacular views from the ship to the incredible adventures on the shore.

Expert Australian crew guide the way; Unique Xplorer tenders transport guests to shore in comfort. Image credits: Coral Expeditions

The documentary

The 30-minute EXPEDITION: Kimberley documentary, created by the team at Igloo Media, follows the journey of Coral Expeditions’ 10-night voyage along the Kimberley coastline – one of the most remote places on Earth. You will get a taste of what it is like to experience this cultural wonder, excitement mounting with every minute that you watch, knowing that you can see it for yourself by booking this unforgettable voyage. On the documentary, guests talk about feeling the spirituality of Country, with its history, geology and wildlife combining in a landscape that not many people get to see. It is a privilege to learn about the oldest culture in the world in this special place, learning about the ancient rock art galleries that go back 20,000 years.

As for the Coral Expeditions’ crew, they are grateful for the opportunity to introduce the remote and majestic Kimberley to new guests via small ship, which gives access to places that are hard to reach.

Red Cone Creek is a serene freshwater swimming hole. Image credit: Coral Expeditions

What you’ll experience on this expedition

This wondrous 10-night Kimberley expedition, departing from either Broome or Darwin, will unwrap the beauty of the Kimberley. Marvel at the magnificent King George River as you meander through steep-sided gorges to the towering twins of Oomari Falls. Cruise the Prince Regent River to the King Cascades waterfall, with its ‘hanging garden’. To see Mitchell Falls, the star of Mitchell River National Park with its emerald-hued rockpools, book the optional helicopter flight that shows you this breathtaking landscape from the air – it is well worth the extra cost. The park is home to mammals, amphibians, reptiles and bird species.

Cruise through healthy mangrove lined creeks spotting wildlife. Image credit: Coral Expeditions

Prince Frederick Harbour is another spectacular location at the southern end of York Sound. The harbour hosts islands fringed by mangrove and monsoon rainforests with an ochre-tinged escarpment as a backdrop. Immerse in history visiting Indigenous rock art galleries in Vansittart Bay to learn about ancient Gwion Gwion art, estimated to be 20,000 years old. More history is etched in the walls at the Wandjina galleries of Doubtful Bay, the traditional country of the Worrora people.

High and mighty

Still more magic awaits when you visit Montgomery Reef – Yowjab, with its diverse marine life. When the 11-metre tide drops, the reef seems to rise up out of the Indian Ocean fringed by cascading curtains of water. The tides are also responsible for the Horizontal Falls – Garaanngaddim, which you can ride in one of Coral Expedition’s Zodiacs, which have been built for the Kimberley and its natural intricacies, ensuring seamless access to the many wonders on shore. Naturalist David Attenborough described the Horizontal Falls as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world.”

Get up close to Montgomery Reef and discover the tidal reef’s diverse marine life on Zodiacs. Image credits: Coral Expeditions

Everywhere you go with Coral Expeditions, you can spot native wildlife and birdlife in their natural habitat, with dolphins, white-bellied sea eagles, turtles, dolphins, dugongs and sawfish, just to name a few. The Lacepede Islands are a protected class-A nature reserve and are a seabird nesting rookery for brown boobies and roseate terns. Other species sighted at these four low-lying islands include Australian pelicans, frigate birds, egrets and gulls, as well as being an important breeding and nesting habitat for green turtles.

Coral Adventurer cruising in the Kimberley. Image credits: Coral Expeditions

The added advantage of cruising on a small ship is that it is easy to socialise with everyone – passengers and crew – bonding like a family over the course of the trip and its glorious sights. Nothing beats stopping at a deserted beach to enjoy sunset canapés and drinks on the beach with your new friends as dusk settles over this ancient region.

Seeing the Kimberley with Coral Expeditions is sure to leave you in awe.

Head to our website to watch EXPEDITION: Kimberley – A documentary following the journey of a 10- night voyage along the remote Kimberley Coastline. WATCH NOW!

This article is brought to you by Coral Expeditions.

To book call 1800 079 545 or +61 7 4040 9999, or visit www.coralexpeditions.com.

The post Unveiling the experience of Kimberley cruising in an exclusive documentary appeared first on Australian Geographic.

We all know the feeling. Come Monday, we drag ourselves to work with a tired mind, body and soul and no amount of oat milk cappuccino can help. By lunchtime, our minds are wandering into the outdoors with all that fresh air and greenery and maybe even waterfalls that we can pose in front of, stand under or just admire. The lightbulb moment slides into your personal DMs – otherwise known as your brain – by late afternoon. Flights are booked, accommodation arranged, your partner or partners in crime are onboard. And the mid-week getaway AKA the ‘Sneeky Mid-Weeky’, has the green light. 

Take a cue from that inspiration and immerse yourself in the lush beauty of the Gold Coast Hinterland. There’s a never-ending variety of possibilities to explore, venture out and unearth tranquil hiking paths and breathtaking waterfalls that promise to rejuvenate your spirit. Disconnect from the digital world by activating your out-of-office early and embrace the serenity of Tranquil Tuesday, granting yourself the precious opportunity to recharge. The unique adventures awaiting you in the Hinterland empower you to tailor your midweek escape to your preferences, ensuring a getaway that resonates with your individuality and gives you the gift of being truly present. Amid the midweek majesty, you can fully reconnect with yourself, free from the looming pressures of daily life, allowing nature’s serenity to slow your pace and nourish your soul.

Twin Falls, Springbrook. Image credit: Destination Gold Coast

Green behind the Gold

For this rejuvenating, soul-stirring getaway far away from mouse clicks and spreadsheets and meetings and deadlines, exploring in nature is the best boost imaginable. And being mid-week, you could find yourself enjoying nature’s delights virtually crowd-free.

The Gold Coast Hinterland is a lush oasis, with subtropical rainforests, misty waterfalls, charming villages and fertile farming grounds. Go for a hike, hang out in the tree tops, breathe in all that fresh air and balance that out with stops at cool cafes, and maybe even a winery visit. The choices are endless.

Play on the Tamborine

Instead of walking to the office printer or photocopier, hike through tangles of trees in ancient forests. Make the most of your short escape by getting up early for a sunrise stroll up Tamborine Mountain. There are a number of trails to explore, and several waterfalls to spice up your socials. Check out the watery wonders at Witches Falls, Curtis or Cameron Falls.

Curtis Falls, Tamborine Mountain. Image credit: Destination Gold Coast

Reach for the sky under a blanket of green at the Tamborine Rainforest Skywalk, an elevated bridge that takes you through ethereal rainforest on what is the longest canopy walk in Southeast Queensland. If you want to stay high, tackle The Treetop Challenge at Thunderbird Park. Unleash your inner Tarzan and take on some of the 85 challenges, from flying foxes to high ropes courses. 

The legendary O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat can also elevate your stay with its Tree Top Walk featuring nine suspension bridges and two observation decks to show off this wild canopy with its orchids, ferns and trees and the birdlife flitting around this avian playground.  A visit to Morans Falls at sunset is another must. While in this part of the world you can stay at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat, and even treat yourself to a massage at the Lost World Spa. 

Waterfall view at sunset at O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat. Image credit: Destination Gold Coast

Golden glow

World Heritage-listed Springbrook National Park is another natural wonder, a jewel accessed through the verdant Numinbah Valley. Spreadsheets and Word documents will be a distant memory as you go for a walk through the ancient Gondwana rainforest with Antarctic beech trees dating back over 3000 years. Make your way to the spectacular Natural Bridge, an ethereal hideaway with its waterfall. Sign up for a guided walk to the Natural Bridge at night, to marvel at the magical glow worms that light up this spiritual place. 

Springbrook National Park. Image credits: Destination Gold Coast

Stretch your legs and blow out the work cobwebs on one or more of the 160 kilometres of bushwalking trails in Woonoongoora – Lamington National Park. Go easy, or go hard, as you discover caves, creeks, rainforests and soak up the serenity that will make the mundane work week goings on feel like they are a world away. 

Stay, play and dine

It’s not just what you do on your ‘sneeky mid-weeky’, it is where you stay, where you dine and where you caffeinate. After all, a good coffee is just as important in the scenic Gold Coast Hinterland as it is in the city. 

For accommodation, take your pick of romantic retreats, lodges, chalets, bed and breakfasts and plenty of holiday homes. On Tamborine Mountain, check out Cedar Creek Lodges – a great base for bushwalkers, and fine dining to boot at the Miner’s Lantern Restaurant. Binna Burra is also a wonderful option for adventure seekers, with its hilltop location ensuring striking views. Stay in one of the brand new Tiny Wild Houses atop the idyllic Bellbird clifftop. They are brilliantly decked out and even have fully-equipped kitchenettes. The floor-to-ceiling glass wall brings the outside in so you can make the most of your country stay. If you don’t feel like cooking, treat yourself to dinner at the Binna Burra Tea House, and have your favourite cocktail at The Groom’s Cottage Bushwalker’s Bar.

A fine drop

Toast to your adventurous pursuits and to your cleverness at breaking your work routine, by visiting one of the many wineries on the Gold Coast Hinterland. Consider Cedar Creek Estate with its idyllic setting and tranquil lake views, or have a fine drop at Witches Falls Winery, where you can admire the beautiful gardens, listen to the bird song and taste their small estate wines. Add a grazing platter featuring locally-produced cheeses, patés, relishes, and other nibbles to make the most of the gorgeous location and quiet mid-week setting. Mount Tamborine Vineyard & Winery will please Chardonnay drinkers, while Albert River Wines is a boutique winery in a historic homestead.

Wine tasting at Witches Falls Winery. Image credit: Tourism Australia

Wine not your thing? Never fear, beer lovers are catered for as well. Fortitude Brewing Company crafts session beers from premium ingredients, while The Tamborine Mountain Distillery is a charming distillery nestled within a beautiful English Tudor-style estate, producing a range of fine liqueurs, schnapps and vodkas that have scooped up over 400 awards.

As we all say, YOLO. We only live once so take a break from the routine, get away from the city and let nature be the antidote to your work woes. Being immersed in nature can help improve symptoms of anxiety and stress, and enhance your sense of well-being.

What are you waiting for? Check your calendar, break those chains, and book your ‘Sneeky Mid-Weeky’ escape in the Gold Coast.

This article is brought to you by Destination Gold Coast.

The post Trade in the office hours for the outdoors with a mid-week escape to the Gold Coast hinterland appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Canowindra has an old-world charm, and it’s rich in both human and natural history. The award-winning Age of Fishes Museum, which has remarkable 360-million-year-old fish fossils on display, is one of the town’s major drawcards.

Canowindra’s main thoroughfare, Gaskill Street, is a genuine time warp, a curiosity that still follows the winding route of the old bullock track. The street’s commercial precinct, with its ornate verandahs and Victorian-era architecture, is listed by the National Trust as a Heritage Conservation Area.

The town was built on rich river flats and lies beside the Belubula River. Today, it’s a service centre for the fertile lands that surround the town, where lucerne, wheat, sheep, beef and canola are all successfully farmed.

Located between the larger centres of Orange and Cowra, Canowindra has featured often in film and television as a typical Aussie country town – most notably in an episode of the British TV show Inspector Morse, the 2003 American-Australian film Kangaroo Jack, and episodes of the ABC TV series Escape to the Country and Back Roads.

Places of interest

1. Hot-air balloon flights

Canowindra is proud of its reputation as Australia’s go-to place for hot-air ballooning. Floating above the countryside is a charming adventure – and definitely one of the best ways to experience Canowindra.

2. Experience Gaskill Street history

Gaskill Street, Canowindra’s main street, is something of a rarity – a former bullock track lined with architecture from the Victorian and Federation eras. Today, these beautifully preserved and restored buildings house boutiques and other local businesses. They include the Melissa Barber Galleries, Finns Store and Perennialle Plants Emporium Cafe and Nursery. Don’t miss the Royal Hotel, built in 1910 on the site of Robinson’s Hotel, which was famously taken over for three days by bushranger Ben Hall and his gang in 1863.

3. The Age of Fishes Museum

Canowindra’s 360-million-year-old fish fossils were discovered by chance in 1955, about 10km west of Canowindra. The fossils are some of the most significant from the late Devonian Period (383–359 million years ago). They formed when a body of water dried up during a drought, killing thousands of fish. Over time, the fish were covered in silt and buried for millions of years. Some 4000 fossilised fish from eight species have been discovered at the site, including armoured placoderms and lobe-finned fish. When Sir David Attenborough visited the award-winning Age of Fishes Museum in 2013, he described the collection of fossils as “world class”. The museum has some excellent hands-on educational displays and an exciting range of permanent exhibitions and activities.

4. Canowindra Historical Museum

Situated beside Memorial Park at 117 Gaskill Street, this museum – operated by dedicated volunteers – narrates the evolution of Canowindra from a frontier township to a pivotal rural center. Noteworthy exhibits include a shepherd’s hut c.1828, a fully preserved 1930s dental surgery, a collection of wedding gowns dating from the early 1880s, a reconstructed woolshed, 19th and 20th-century agricultural machinery, an extensive photo collection, and the Pioneers’ Wall.

5. Blind Freddy’s Bushranger Tours

Step back in time to the 1860s and discover Canowindra’s history and thrilling bushranger lore with Blind Freddy’s Bushranger Tours. Visit the locations where Frank Gardiner, Johnny Gilbert and Ben Hall roamed, robbed and roistered. There are a number of tours to choose from, including the Canowindra walking tour.

History

The district is home to the Wiradjuri First Nations people.

James Collits established a settlement at “Canoundra” in 1831.

By the 1840s Canowindra was a frontier settlement.

The post office opened in 1847 and the Canowindra Inn was built soon after.

The town was surveyed in 1860.

In 1863 Canowindra was twice raided by a notorious gang of bushrangers, led by Benn Hall (pictured).

In 1874 the first bridge across the Belubula River was built. The bridge was opened in 1875.

The Eugowra branch of the railway, leading to Canowindra, opened in 1910. Within a year the town’s population swelled to 1500.

In 1955 a rock slab bearing dozens of fossilised fish was discovered by a roadworker, about 10km west of the town.

In 1988, to mark the Australian Bicentennial, Canowindra hosted its first National Hot Air Balloon Championships.

A 1991 episode of the British detective series Inspector Morse was filmed in the town.

In 2013 Sir David Attenborough described Canowindra’s fossils as “world class”.

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Image credit: Freeman Brothers/State Library of New South Wales

RELATED STORY: The best star gazing locations in 2021 in Central NSW

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Canowindra, NSW appeared first on Australian Geographic.

However, where the colourful rainbow trout – which has welcomed shivering visitors to the village’s main street for the past four decades – should be, there is instead a metal tower, draped in blue plastic, which is billowing in the stiff southerly. It’s also ringed by metal fencing. But for a lack of police tape, you could be excused for thinking it was a crime scene.

Has Adaminaby’s pride and joy been trout-napped? Surely not. 

Where would you hide a fish that big? Maybe she just got sick of camera-toting tourists jumping on her tail and she wriggled her way to one of the nearby streams laden with her (much smaller) namesakes? 

“Perhaps you should have checked out the Big Banana [in northern New South Wales] instead,” quips my wife, still in the passenger seat. “It sure would have been warmer,” she adds, before hastily closing the window.

Suddenly, a movement near the top of the scaffolding catches my eye. A man peeks out, clad in overalls, beanie pulled low over his ears and paintbrush in hand. “Can I help you?” he asks, while trying to remove a safety mask from his face. It’s Mark Burns from Cooma Crash Repairs, who, along with workmate Chris McCullough, is undertaking “urgent repairs” to Adaminaby’s fabled big fish. Stopping for an early smoko, the pair generously invite me inside for a peek. 

“If we didn’t start work on her, she probably would have collapsed,” Chris says guiding me through the trout’s more delicate regions, then up a rickety ladder to her snout. “She had a pretty bad diagnosis,” Mark adds. “If you think she looks bad now, you should’ve seen her when we started work on her six weeks ago. She had everything from fin rot to gangrene.” Oh dear. The panelbeaters/trout whisperers show me where they’ve filled cracks and fixed fractures with a special poly-compound made for extreme weather conditions. It’s meticulous work. And yes, they let me take a photo. It’s not the iconic exterior shot I was after, but even better: a close-up of her freshly reconstructed eyeball, ready for repainting. Before this intimate encounter 10 years ago, the Big Trout was just another 3D billboard erected to lure travellers off the highway and spend a few dollars in fledgling businesses. Becoming entangled in her entrails, and seeing dedicated locals risking frostbite to maintain her, changed all that. I was…hooked. 

My wife still laments, “You don’t even like fishing!” when, on each trip to the snowfields, we make a lengthy detour to make “yet another pilgrimage” to the Big Trout. It’s funny how you can get attached to an oversized fibreglass fish.

As with many other BTs, Australia has multiple Big Trouts. One is in Oberon, 340km north of Adaminaby, where, while recently at the front bar of The Royal Hotel, I suggested to a barfly that his town’s Big Trout didn’t stack up to the one in Adaminaby. 

It was a genuine attempt at friendly chit-chat but I may as well have maligned his mother’s character on national television. To my wife’s disdain, it almost ended in fisticuffs, and even shouting a round of drinks didn’t placate him. It turns out I’m not the only victim of a spirited tirade from a parochial local sticking up for their town’s claim to fame. “People can get really protective and territorial about their BTs,” says Dr Amy Clarke, a senior lecturer in history at the University of the Sunshine Coast. And if anyone should know, it’s Amy. She specialises in built heritage and material cultures and has earned the enviable moniker of Australia’s “BT expert”.

“A few years ago, during a talkback segment on ABC Radio, I was labelled “un-Australian” because I refused to call the Big Uluru [which burnt down in 2018], at Leyland Brothers World at North Arm Cove near Newcastle, a BT,” Amy explains. “Because it wasn’t bigger than the rock it was imitating, actually only 1/40th the size, it clearly couldn’t be classified as a Big Thing.

“I thought my statement was uncontentious, but it received an irate response from some listeners who promptly called the station, including one furious local who roared ‘How dare you!’ down the phone line.”  Unlike my piscatorial face-off in Oberon, which compared two similar BTs, in Amy’s case it was about definition.

If there was a competition for the Big Things that most closely resemble their real-life namesakes, the koala at Dadswells Bridge, in western VIC, would be a top contender. 

To her, the object must satisfy four key criteria: “It must be human-made, three-dimensional, located outdoors and be obviously bigger than the real-world thing it is imitating.” Surely it also needs to be beside a highway as well. “No. Roads move, so I don’t include that as a criterion,” she says. 

So, how many BTs are dotted around our country? According to Amy’s broad definition, “At last count, there were 1075.” Yes, that many, but that number includes commissioned works of public art, which Amy says inflates the total by about 25 per cent.

“People interested in BTs reflect the full spectrum of society, not just art historians and academics, so debating what is and isn’t a BT is a great way for people to have conversations about heritage,” she says, adding, “Many of them may be ‘lowbrow’, but they also hold a deeply personal resonance with the people who have lived near them, and visited them.”

Although many artists and builders have dabbled in the creation of BTs, there are a handful of entrepreneurs who can boast multiple BTs on their resume. These include brothers Attila and Louis Mokany, who were responsible for three of arguably our nation’s most eye-catching roadside sculptures. First up, in 1985, to encourage motorists to stop at their Goulburn service station and restaurant, and as a less than subtle nod to the area’s fine-wool industry, the Mokanys cobbled together the 15.2 x 18m Big Merino. That’s seriously big – no-one could argue it’s not bigger than the animal it’s imitating! Buoyed by the success of Rambo, as the anatomically correct (and well-endowed) ram was soon named, next off the production line was the Big Prawn at Ballina in 1989, then the Big Oyster at Taree the following year. Much to their disappointment, the Mokanys’ subsequent proposal in Albury for a Big Murray Grey, a breed of cattle, didn’t get the green light.

Although the Big Oyster has seen better days (it’s now part of a new car dealership), Rambo and the oddly nickname-less Big Prawn continue to entice travellers for that must-have selfie, even though they’re no longer bolted to their original locations.

In 2006, 14 years after the Hume Highway bypassed Goulburn, Rambo got itchy feet. Under police escort, and the watchful gaze of an entire town, the 100t (yes, a leading contender for our heaviest BT) ram was hauled to its current home on the new highway. Rambo’s owners, who’d lost more than 40 busloads of tourists a day after the bypass opened, weren’t the only winners in the move. A handful of residents who were often the, er, butt of many jokes, having lived with uninterrupted views of the concrete ram’s huge backside for many years, were also cheering. 

Standing more than 17m tall, Kingston SE’s Larry the Big Lobster, in SA, is one of Australia’s biggest and most conspicuously kitsch Big Things.

While Rambo was a hit with Goulburnites from day one, the much more conspicuous prawn, resplendent in bright orange paint, was viewed by its many critics as nothing more than a bad smell. The fact it was minus a critical part of its anatomy – its tail – probably didn’t help. “When it was first erected, lots of locals opposed it, but in 2010, after the service station it was attached to was approved for demolition, supporters came out of the woodwork,” Amy says. “Residents essentially stormed the council chambers, pleading for their prawn to be saved.” Eventually Ballina’s Bunnings came to the rescue, and the previously condemned crustacean now stands sentinel over the hardware store’s fundraising barbecues, no doubt hoping no-one hollers, “Throw another shrimp on the barbie!” Oh, and yes, they even added a tail.

The gong for the most-moved BT is safely stashed in the pouch of Matilda, the 13m-tall kangaroo who, after her stint as the 1982 Brisbane Commonwealth Games mascot, retired to a Gold Coast water theme park.  When that site was redeveloped, she hopped 200km up the M1 to a truck stop in Kybong, near Gympie. Today, she stands outside another petrol station, at neighbouring Traveston. Even though Matilda can no longer wink or wiggle her ears with the grace she once did on the big stage, there’s no mistaking she’s a giant kangaroo. The same cannot be said for all BTs.

Taking up a whole block in the main street of the sleepy NSW Southern Highlands village of Robertson, where farmers have been growing famous red-soil potatoes for years, is – you guessed it – a big spud. Unless you’ve seen it yourself, you’d wonder why the terrific tater is so maligned. 

Here’s a clue. Since it was unveiled in 1977, not one single highlander has referred to the 10m-long, 4m-high tuber by its official name, preferring instead to call it the, ahem, Big Poo-tato. I’m sure you get my drift.

Amy is sorry for the spud: “I like things people have genuinely set out to do and unfortunately in this case it didn’t quite translate into reality. I actually think it’s quite beautiful. There’s even been talk of it being heritage-listed, like Queensland’s Big Pineapple.” 

When her parents bought the much-mocked giant vegetable in 2014, “to stop developers moving in and turning it into a supermarket”, celebrated Sydney playwright Melanie Tait enthusiastically and bravely adopted the title of the “Big Potato Heiress”. Despite having to endure eight years of unwanted puns directed her way, when Melanie discovered in late 2022 that her family was selling up, she felt obliged to pen an article for The Guardian. 

“Generations have grown up with it as a landmark and sign of stability in a place that’s forever changing,” she reflected, before expressing hope that “the new owners realise how special this construction of cement and soil is”. Aww.

At the opposite end in the popularity stakes is Larry the Big Lobster, in Kingston SE, South Australia. Persistent rumours suggest Paul Kelly, the artist who built the 17m-tall spiny lobster, misunderstood the plans and laid out Larry in metres instead of feet – hence his leviathan size. Paul dismisses the claims as scurrilous. The gigantic steel-and-fibreglass lobster regularly wins polls as Australia’s favourite BT, so if Larry’s measurements were an oversight, it was probably a blessing in disguise. “No-one wants a small Big Thing,” Amy jokes. 

As one of the biggest BTs, if you wanted to pilfer Larry, you’d need an army of angle grinder–wielding assailants and a semitrailer fleet. There’s a parade of other, easier to transport BTs that have mysteriously gone missing in the night. These include Bowen’s much-loved Big Mango, which disappeared from its pedestal on the side of the busy Bruce Highway on a hot summer night in February 2014. Search parties led by miffed mango munchers scouted all roads in and out of the north Queensland town. But they needn’t have worried. The 10m-tall missing mango was soon located, partially hidden under a tarpaulin in nearby bushland. A chicken restaurant chain had temporarily fruit-napped it as a publicity stunt for a new menu item. Really.

Then there’s the case of the oversized fibreglass bull that stood for many years outside a butcher’s shop in Bangalow in northern NSW before vanishing – but not without trace. After it was filched, owner John Herne received reports from eyewitnesses who spotted the big bull at numerous locations, including a beach at Port Macquarie and grazing outside a service station near Newcastle. It was also spotted at the Big Prawn in Ballina, prompting speculation of a BT meet-up. When John received a photograph in the mail of the missing bull alone in a paddock at an unknown location and plastered in psychedelic-coloured dots, it almost sent him over the edge.

The broken-hearted butcher was only reunited with his prized bull when, after an anonymous tip-off, he enlisted the help of a vigilante bunch of Bangalow tradies who tracked down the bull in a paddock between Casino and Tenterfield.

“When he went missing, he weighed 682kg, but on his return he was less than 600kg,” John says. “He was sporting a large gash on his side and was minus his ears – he must have put up a good fight.”

About 800km north, in Rockhampton, half-a-dozen big bullocks celebrate that city’s status as Australia’s beef capital and perhaps wouldn’t mind having an ear nicked, instead of their testes, which have been an irresistible target for pranksters. A cabinet-maker by trade, Chris Murphy worked as a slasher driver and an artificial insemination technician for cattle, before the mid-1990s, when he joined the Rockhampton Regional Council and volunteered to look after the bulls. Since then, he’s carefully crafted dozens of replacement testes – each weighing about 5kg – using a special concrete mould. “I’ve even invented a new way to attach them to the bulls using a metal rod that makes them harder to steal,” he proclaims. Tony Williams, Rockhampton Region mayor, is just as proud: “Our bull statues are iconic. Often if there’s one thing a person knows about Rockhampton, it’s the pride of place our bull statues hold at the entry points to our city.” 

While the heritage-listed Big Pineapple at Woombye in QLD (left) grabs all the headlines, there are several spiky spin-offs, including the much more modestly proportioned fruit at Ballina, NSW (right).

There must be something in the water in Queensland because,  no matter how you define a BT, the Sunshine State is indisputably “Australia’s BT capital”. It has all manner of oversized fruit, vegetables and animals, and the Bruce Highway is littered with quirky BTs, including Tully’s 7.9m-tall Big Gumboot (officially the Golden Gumboot). Tully, the state’s wettest town, receives an average annual rainfall of more than 4m, and it holds the national record for the most rain in a year – 7933mm, in 1950. Lucky the concrete gumboot has drains in the bottom or it would fill up.

Meanwhile, Western Australia fails to pull its weight in the BTs stakes. Among its best-known BTs are the Big Western Rock Lobster at Dongara, a Big Prawn in Exmouth that’s small fry compared with Ballina’s colossal crustacean, and a somewhat incongruous Big Lollipop at Ravensthorpe. Apparently, it’s the world’s biggest free-standing lollipop. Sure, it’s propped up outside a sweet shop, but sugar on a stick is hardly synonymous with this far-flung town. But the 8m-tall aluminium-and-steel lollipop is nowhere near as out of place as the Big Ned Kelly in Maryborough, Queensland, where it blatantly promotes a hotel. Ned, who never ventured within cooee of Queensland, would be turning in his grave.  If you must eyeball a more appropriately positioned Big Ned, then beat a path to Kelly heartland in Glenrowan, Victoria, the location of the infamous bushranger’s last stand, where a 6m-tall Ned, clad in iconic armour fashioned from old farm ploughs, bails up visitors to town. 

Back in WA, and hardly worth a detour to see, you can pour acid on the Big Periodic Table plastered on a wall of a science faculty building at Edith Cowan University. The same goes for the World’s Tallest Bin in Kalgoorlie. What rubbish. It’s a pity there’s not a bigger bin to toss it into. WA is also home to one of the strangest BTs – the Big Camera, built into the facade of a former service station/camera museum at Meckering, 135km east of Perth. Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and as more BTs pop up along our highways, there will always be debate as to how they compare with the existing stock of BTs.

Amy Clarke reports, during the past decade or so, we’ve been enjoying a renaissance in BTs. “New ones are being unveiled at a much faster rate than those being demolished,” she says. This is good news for BT afficionados because it means there are even more to visit, even for Amy (who has seen more than most). 

“When my brother recently got married, I drove past the Big Apple in Stanthorpe for the first time, as well as some other new BTs in northern NSW,” Amy says. “I confessed to my brother, I was way more excited taking photos of all of them than attending his wedding… He was none too impressed.” 

I’ll bet. A feeling I’m sure my wife can relate to. 

Mint recognition

The Big Oyster at Taree didn’t make the cut, nor did Robertson’s Big Potato – possibly for obvious reasons – but Swan Hill’s Giant Murray Cod did, twice. So did the Big Lobster at Kingston SE in SA.

If you’re a stamp or coin collector and a fan of Australian Big Things, then your passion has been catered for three times since 2007. That was when Australia Post issued its first collection of BTs, five 50c stamps with distinctive illustrations by renowned artist Reg Mombassa. A further set of five, of $1.20 denomination, was issued in September 2023, illustrated this time by Nigel Buchanan. 

A set of $1 uncirculated coins was released earlier in 2023 by the Royal Australian Mint. Uncirculated coins are created just for collectors, as the name suggests, so you aren’t likely to get a Wak Wak Big Jumping Crocodile in your change at the servo, more’s the pity.

According to Australia Post, stamp designs must appeal to more than a narrow section of the community – in fact, they must be of “outstanding national or international interest” and not be likely to cause “public divisiveness”. So don’t be drawn into an argument over whether Canberra’s Big Swoop magpie is more likely to have a nip than Muswellbrook’s Blue Heeler, or you might cop the rough end of a Big Pineapple.

Photographer Trent Mitchell‘s book Australian Lustre will be launched later this year.

RELATED STORY: Australia is littered with aging super-sized statues

The post The bigger they come appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Who are the Makassans? They live on the South Peninsula of Sulawesi, in Indonesia, and from the 16th century, they ventured forth across the seas to find and catch trepang, or sea cucumbers, thus becoming known as ‘trepangers’. They sailed through the Flores and Savu seas, and travelled as far as Arnhem Land and the Kimberley.

They sailed off into the unknown on traditional perahu boats – but you can join Coral Exhibitions on this fascinating 14-night itinerary onboard the Coral Geographer.

For four decades this Australian-owned company, based in Cairns in Queensland, has been a quiet achiever. Coral Expeditions offers small ship, expedition-style cruising in the Great Barrier Reef, the Kimberley, Indonesia, Papua New Guinea and the islands of the South Pacific.

There is an exceptional opportunity to explore places you may not have visited before. The itinerary, a special Australian Geographic Society departure, will set sail from Makassar on 23 April 2024, and take you on a voyage of discovery as you island-hop all the way to Darwin.

All aboard

Boarding Coral Geographer in Makassar – the capital of the South Sulawesi province – you’ll be thrilled with the comforts of your floating home. The newest ship in Coral Expeditions’ fleet, Coral Geographer can carry up to 120 guests, with the company’s renowned Australian hospitality and friendly service obvious from day one. The ship was launched in 2021, and was purpose-designed and -built to access remote shores that are often inaccessible to larger vessels. Another important fact is that this small boutique ship does not overwhelm local communities or the environment at these far-flung places.

The ship boasts 1000sq.m of open deck space, several bars and a well-equipped gym, while the majority of the staterooms and suites have balconies from which to watch the ocean and landscapes drift by. The onboard chefs have the creative freedom to prepare small-batch meals from fresh seasonal produce, with no set times to dine. When it comes to disembarking to go ashore and explore, Coral Geographer is equipped with lightweight, dual Xplorer tenders, referred to as ‘safari jeeps of the sea’ because they are fast, sturdy and comfortable on the water and allow for easy access to get on and off, both ashore and from the ship.

Clockwise from left: The Vista deck; the Explorer Deck Stateroom and the lecture room onboard Coral Geographer. Image credit: Coral Expeditions

Makassar to Komodo

On the first sector of this stunning itinerary, you will visit the island of Tana Beru, where traditional wooden pinisi ships have been constructed by the Bugis boatbuilders. The method of boatbuilding – handed down through generations since the 14th century – is incredible, using no nails. You will also hear tales of this seafaring community, and board one of the pinisi boats for an inspection.

Then travel overland to Tana Toraja – a highlight of this itinerary – in the highlands of Sulawesi, where you will experience the ancient culture and traditions of the Torajan people. Visit the Tongkonan houses at Marante, the stone graves with Tau-tau effigies at Lemo and the hanging burial sites of Bori Parinding. Wander through a local Torajan market and discover where buffalo and pigs are purchased for funerals, and explore Kete Kesu, a 400-year-old village high in the mountains, where you will stay overnight and join the locals in music and dancing. This is an unforgettable, off-the-beaten-track experience.

Back on the sea, the island of Sogori, home to the Bajo and Bugis peoples, is perfect for swimming, snorkelling and diving, or just strolls along the idyllic white-sand beach. The brilliant blue waters of Tinabo Island will introduce you to the village way of life, while at Tinabo Besar, you can help with the important conservation programs by tree planting or coral transplanting, under the expert guidance of the staff at Taka Bonerate Marine Park.

Komodo to Darwin

Komodo Island, in Komodo National Park, is known for its ancient – and slightly fearsome – Komodo dragons, only found in this part of Indonesia, in a handful of places. Walk with local rangers to spot dragons, and hear all about their habits and how villagers live with them. Visit a local village, and later in the day, marvel at the dusky pink sands of Pink Beach and dive into the turquoise water to swim, float or snorkel.

For more panoramic beauty, visit Padar Island, also in Komodo National Park, where you can tackle the climb to the top of the peak. Get your breath back while you take in the astonishing views over the blue sea and the verdant islands. If a challenging hike is not for you, you can hop in the tender and explore the island from the water.

From crystal clear water to misty mountains, you are bound to love the excursion from the coastal town of Ende up to Kelimutu. Stop at a orphanage on the way for refreshments with the nuns and orphans, and then carry on to the spectacular tricoloured Crater Lakes, where the custom is to throw a stone into the water for good luck.

The village of Lamalera, on the island of Lembata, is rarely visited and is known worldwide as the home of traditional whaling. Meet the locals who will welcome you and share their way of life, ancient beliefs and taboos, and traditional methods for Ikat weaving and other local crafts. The hunters still use simple sailboats to feed the village, as they have since before the Portuguese came in the mid 1600s.

Your last stop, before pulling in at the wharf in Darwin, is Tablolong Bay in Kupang. Go for a swim or a snorkel, and listen to the gentle music of the sasando, an instrument that produces harp-like sounds.

This article is brought to you by Coral Expeditions.

Expedition In The Wake Of The Makassans

Join the Australian Geographic team onboard Coral Geographer for a 14-night expedition voyage departing on 23 April 2024. On this voyage, follow ancient Makassan trading routes and witness the confluence of cultural heritage and natural beauty of Sulawesi sailing, as you cruise from Makassar to Darwin.

East Indies (Makassar to Darwin AG Hosted Voyage departing on 23 April 2024)

To book call 1800 079 545 or +61 7 4040 9999, or visit www.coralexpeditions.com.

The post In the wake of the Makassans appeared first on Australian Geographic.

You’ve ticked off some of the world’s most incredible wildlife adventures. Perhaps you’ve peered through the mist to admire gorillas in Rwanda. You’ve possibly hiked somewhere dramatic like Alaska’s high country looking for caribou and moose. If you’ve an interest in Polar travel it’s likely you’ve laughed at comical penguins on the Antarctic Peninsula or applauded the salmon-hunting prowess of grizzly bears in Alaska.

Yet, have Canada’s wild places ignited your soul? Got your blood pumping and your heart racing? Have you stared into the soulful eyes of a polar bear? Or watched the mist from a bear’s breath dissipate into thin air? Have you followed in the footsteps of the world’s largest carnivore, whose paws are the size of dinner plates? No? Stay with me and read on.

Viewing polar bears in the wild, on their terms, is one of the rarest of experiences. Yet, in Canada’s north, it is actually pretty easy to see these apex predators up close and very personal.

Just ask the 1000 or so intrepid residents of Churchill, Manitoba, who share their home with a similar number of polar bears, particularly during seasonal changes. The remote outpost of Churchill, approximately 2000km north of Winnipeg, grew from an 18^th century fur-trading outpost.  The world’s oldest commercial operation, Hudson’s Bay Co which was founded in 1670, was long established by the time commercial fur trading peaked. Artefacts thousands of years old, such as kayak stands and tent rings from semi-nomadic Inuit people who traded furs, have been found around Churchill.

Bears of Churchill

Today, Churchill is known as one of the best places in the world to see polar bears. Tundra buggies are the chariot of choice for savvy travellers. These specially designed vehicles easily traverse the rugged terrain beyond Churchill, allowing travellers to view polar bears up close and in complete safety on a Classic Churchill Polar Bear Adventure.

Churchill is known as the Polar Bear Capital of the World for good reason. There’s even a polar bear ‘jail’, a holding facility which helps humans and bears to co-exist in safety. Churchill sits smack bang in the middle of the polar bear highway – the natural path that bears take moving to and from the ice on Hudson Bay. During the winter months bears hunt seals on the frozen bay. As the ice melts during the warmer months, they are forced ashore to hunt for food on land. Churchill just happens to be in the way of hungry bears trying to survive. Bears which become a little too familiar and begin to associate human habitats and their discarded rubbish as a food source are held in the holding facility until the sea ice returns and they can be safely relocated to their natural environment.

The brutal truth is, polar bears need our help. Numbers are in decline as the ice melts earlier each year, depriving bears of essential hunting grounds. Partnerships between Adventure World and non-profit organisations like Polar Bear International (PBI) help to halt the decline of the species. According to Polar Bear International, approximately 20,000 to 26,000 polar bears remain in the world. That’s a drop of 27% in five years, according to a 2021 Canadian government survey. Adventure World’s itineraries such as Polar Bears at Tundra Buggy Lodge or Canada’s Big Five Safari contribute to the ongoing protection of these magnificent creatures and their natural habitat.

Belugas at play

Canada’s north is home to many Arctic wildlife species, some are endemic, and all rely upon an unspoilt environment in which to thrive. During the summer months it’s possible to see curious beluga whales which aggregate in the shallow waters of Churchill river on Adventure World’s Belugas, Bears & Blooms itinerary. Here, in the southern reaches of Hudson Bay, bump-headed belugas are masters of disguise during the winter when their Arctic-hued skin blends in with the icy seascape. Not so much during the summer, when their whiteness and comical grins makes them a photographer’s favourite. Belugas are vocal creatures too (which kind of blows their cover), chirruping and chirping incessantly, which instigated the affectionate moniker of ‘sea canaries’. They use Churchill River as a breeding nursery where they feed, mate and give birth in the warmer waters before returning to icy northern waters as winter descends.

Ribbons of light

While belugas are migrating northwards, humans too are lured north in winter. To Yukon to be precise. The reason? It has nothing to do with belugas, nor bears. Rather, the attraction is atmospheric. The Aurora Borealis, otherwise known as the Northern Lights, lures travellers to Yukon’s wide-open skies for the best possible chance to view this natural phenomenon. Adventure World’s Yukon Winter Dream itinerary puts you front and centre from your Whitehorse base. When not admiring the dancing curtains of light, you’ll likely be readying yourself for a thrilling insight into the toughest dog sled race in the world.

Nature’s most coveted light show is generally visible from mid-August to mid-April, while the best time to see them is during the first few weeks of winter, when clear dark skies make ideal viewing conditions. Winter in Yukon is also the best time to experience the thrill of snow mobiling and mushing, or dog sledding. Mushing has a long history in Canada’s North, when the only way to move around has traditionally been by using dog team transportation. It’s how news was passed between remote communities and supplies were delivered. In some communities it’s still the most reliable link between far-flung outposts.

The international sled dog race, the Yukon Quest, grew out of the tradition of mushing, with racers covering a 1000-mile route between Whitehorse, Yukon and Fairbanks, Alaska. The race traverses what is arguably some of Canada’s most beautiful, yet unforgiving, terrain. But fear not, you won’t have to undertake such an endurance feat. After a session learning the ropes on a mushing adventure, the only thing you need be concerned about is which hot springs to soak in, or what time the Northern Lights are likely to appear.

Like much of Canada’s North, some of the experiences you’ll encounter here are like nowhere else on this planet. There’s only one polar bear jail. There’s only one Tundra Buggy Lodge. The Northern Lights dance across Yukon’s skies in vivid curtains of colour. There’s only one way to see Canada: on an Adventure World authentic, custom-made journey. Unlike those recalcitrant polar bears who likely regret the decision to forage through Churchill’s rubbish bins, you won’t regret your visit to Canada’s North.

Discover extraordinary adventures with Adventure World. We’re travellers like you, offering authentic experiences. Let’s explore together!

Unlock the world with Adventure World – your passport to extraordinary adventures.

This article is brought to you by Adventure World.

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Ramses II was a phenomenon – a man for the ages in so many ways. Thanks to the Australian Museum and major partner, Adventure World, we can dive into his realm by visiting the much-anticipated exhibition – Ramses & The Gold of the Pharaohs.

The exhibition, in Australia for the first time, will feature 182 antiquities direct from the pyramids and museums of Egypt. As well as experiencing the treasures, you can learn the stories of the pieces, the history, and what life was like in the days of the pharaohs. It is an incredible opportunity to capture this glimpse into ancient times without leaving our shores.

The exhibition

Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs opened on 18 November 2023 to great, deserved fanfare, and will thrill and inspire visitors until 19 May 2024. Plenty of time for you to visit and take a ride back through thousands of years to the sands of the Sahara and the banks of the Nile. The new multisensory museum experience looks at the life and accomplishments of Ramses the Great who ruled Egypt for 67 years, the second longest reign for any pharaoh. In an astonishing fact, Ramses II lived for 92 years and fathered about 100 children.

Ramses was an impressive leader, a renowned warrior who secured peace with his neighbours and led a massive building campaign with some of those buildings still standing.

A highlight of the exhibition will be the sarcophagus of Ramses II, perhaps the most impressive royal coffin from ancient Egypt. This invaluable artifact rarely leaves Egypt. Apart from Sydney, it has only been displayed in one other foreign city – Paris. The reverence Egyptians of the time had for Ramses is evident in the craftmanship of the carved cedar coffin, discovered in 1811 at the Royal Cache at Deir el-Bahari archaeological site on the west bank of the Nile River, opposite the city of Luxor and east of the Valley of the Kings. It is staggering to think we can see it firsthand.

The exhibition also showcases other treasures and one-of-a-kind relics, some of which have never left Egypt before. Visitors will be taken aback by the stunningly preserved collection of artifacts, including sarcophagi, animal mummies, striking jewellery like the necklace of Psusennes, the coffin of Sennedjem, royal masks including the golden mask of Amenemope, exquisite amulets and opulent golden treasures of the tomb that show the superb workmanship of Egyptian artisans. All of the objects in the exhibition have come from museums and historical sites in Egypt and are on loan from Egypt’s Supreme Council of Antiquities.

Visitors to the exhibition can experience a virtual reality tour of two of Ramses’s most impressive monuments, the Tomb of Queen Nefertari, his favourite Royal Consort, and the temples of Abu Simbel. The only thing better than viewing this is to see them in real life – something you can do with Adventure World.

See the Egypt that Ramses built

Egypt is home to the only remaining Ancient Wonder of the World – the Pyramids of Giza. The architectural genius it took to build these majestic, mesmerising structures has fascinated the world for generations. Adventure World can take you to Egypt to take in the history and storied wonders of this ancient land. The 10-day Authentic Egypt itinerary will leave you awestruck as you take in the scope and size of the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, and learn about their secrets from your private Egyptologist tour guide. Visit the long-awaited Grand Egyptian Museum, the world’s largest archaeological museum dedicated to ancient Egyptian history and culture with an astonishing treasure trove of artifacts – including those from the reign of Tutankhamun. The itinerary also includes a four-day cruise of the Nile, during which you will explore the many jewels of Luxor. They include the Temple of Luxor and the Temple of Karnak, with the latter covering 40ha and having a history spanning a mind-boggling 13 centuries. Visit the Valley of the Kings, where the tomb of Ramses the Great was found, Aswan, and the masterful rock temples of Abu Simbel, constructed during the reign of Ramses II.

The significance of cats

Cats were important to the ancient Egyptians and were often placed in tombs as a sacrifice to the goddess Bastet, who was often shown as a woman with the head of a cat. They also revered lions, and it is said that Ramses II had a pet lion that even accompanied him to the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites. In Ramses & The Gold of the Pharaohs, there are several animal mummies on display, including crocodiles, mongoose, and a 10-month-old lion cub.

If you’d prefer to see lions on the move, Adventure World has a 13-day Authentic East Africa itinerary that will take you up close and personal with wildlife as you visit many renowned national parks and conservation areas, from the legendary Serengeti and the Masai Mara, to Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Nairobi National Park.

The itinerary, which is meticulously curated and can be tailored to your interests, starts in Nairobi, where a highlight will be searching for rhino in the only national park in the world that is within a city. At the Sheldrick Trust Elephant Orphanage, you can see for yourself how the Trust works with the Kenya Wildlife Service to raise orphaned elephants rescued from various places throughout Kenya.  

In the Mara Reserve, pinch yourself as you see an A to Z of wildlife on several game drives, returning to your luxurious tented suite to sleep while being serenaded by the animals of Africa. You might want to do a hot-air balloon safari or enjoy a cultural visit to a Maasai village to learn about and be inspired by their traditions. During the migration season there is the prospect of waiting in anticipation for herds of wildebeest and zebras to cross rivers and tributaries where predators lie in wait for their annual buffet. In Tarangire, see elephants and other game including lion prides and perhaps an elusive leopard, while in Lake Manyara you’ll stay in a stunning lodge perched on the edge of the spectacular Rift Valley. Visiting the Serengeti is akin to living in a wildlife documentary, particularly if you are there during the calving and migration season. Thousands of zebra and wildebeest move in large herds across the savanna, grazing and following the circuit they have made annually since birth. The Serengeti is magical at any time of year, with its vast open plains and array of wildlife big and small, from elephants to hippos, warthogs to servals and a multitude of feathered friends. It will leave you breathless at nature’s beauty.

Whether you choose to go to the ancient lands of Egypt or elsewhere in Africa, Adventure World has you covered, with 40 years of experience delivering authentic, trusted and thoughtful service.

This article is brought to you by Adventure World.

Unlock the world with Adventure World – your passport to extraordinary adventures.

Discover extraordinary adventures with Adventure World. We’re travellers like you, offering authentic experiences. Let’s explore together!

The post Turn back time appeared first on Australian Geographic.

January

Rock the Cradle
Cradle Mountain, Lutruwita/Tasmania

This mystical, wild wonder sits in the heart of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area, with its moss-covered ancient rainforests, dramatic river gorges, soaring peaks and glacial lakes. Walk around Dove Lake, with its stunning vistas looking back to the jagged peaks at Cradle Mountain. Here you might see an array of wildlife including Bennetts wallabies, echidnas and pademelons, as well as wildflowers that bloom in summer. Reflect at Waldheim Chalet, once the home of Gustav and Kate Weindorfer, who were pivotal in the park’s establishment.

Discover Cradle Mountain on the AAT Kings 13-day Perfect Tasmania itinerary.

February

Sealed with a kiss
Kangaroo Island, South Australia

Excitement will build on the ferry ride to Kangaroo Island, an unfiltered, untamed jewel of nature. Admire the stark, sculptured Remarkable Rocks and neighbouring Admirals Arch with its long-nosed fur seals. Learn about the colony of Australian sea lions at Seal Bay Conservation Park, see koalas in the wild and help with bushfire recovery. At the Kangaroo Island Brewery, built with recycled materials, taste craft beers made with rainwater collected from the roof. If you don’t like beer, sip wine or cider.

See Kangaroo Island’s amazing wildlife and try some delicious craft beer on AAT Kings 11-day Tastes of Southern Australia tour.

Cradle Mountain, Tasmania, from above; Kangaroo Island Brewery, KI, South Australia. Image credits: Jason Charles Hill; Josie Withers

March

Wine and vines
The Barossa, South Australia

As summer winds down into autumn, head for the hills… the Adelaide Hills, as well as the renowned Barossa. While heavenly for wine connoisseurs, this part of South Australia is gorgeous, with its vine-covered slopes and scenic vistas. Stop in charming Hahndorf, the oldest German settlement in Australia, known for its bakeries, and quaint shops. Dive into these local flavours and tastes over lunch at Lambert Estate, a family-owned and -run vineyard nestled among the vines and trees in Angaston.

Indulge in the Barossa’s award-winning wines on the seven-day AAT Kings Great Ocean Road and Kangaroo Island Escape tour.

April

What lies beneath
Coober Pedy, South Australia

This outback gem doesn’t look like much from above ground, but venture under the earth’s surface and you will strike it rich, in more ways than one. Australia has 95 per cent of the world’s supply of commercial opal and the largest percentage still comes from the 70 opal fields around Coober Pedy. Due to the heat, many locals live underground. Try your hand at fossicking for opals, explore the town, head out to Indigenous-owned Kanku-Breakaways Conservation Park, and visit perhaps the most unusual golf course in Australia.

A town unlike anywhere else in Australia, Coober Pedy is part of the eight-day South Australian Outback Adventure tour.

A kangaroo spotted in the vineyards in the Barossa Valley, South Australia; Coober Pedy, South Australia. Image credits: Tourism South Australia

May

Spiritual heart
Uluru, Northern Territory

There are some places that stir your soul, warm your heart and inspire the thirst for knowledge. Uluru – home to the Anangu people, who have called the region home for millennia – is one such place. See the world’s biggest monolith in different lights – see it at sunset, then rise in the silence of the pre-dawn to explore the base of this serene place at sunrise. Take to the skies for an aerial sightseeing tour, or perhaps book into Bruce Munro’s exceptional Field of Light.

Feel connected to Australia’s heart on this 11-day Northern Territory Explorer tour.

June

Time traveller
Karijini National Park, Western Australia

The cooler months are a perfect time to pay homage to the wonders of Karijini National Park, part of the Hamersley Range. You will be left speechless as you take in the striking red escarpments, waterfalls and tranquil sculpted gorges, all created over billions of years. Venture into the park for a day, pausing your exploration to swim in pristine waterholes, from which you can admire nature’s finest work. After dark, look up to see a starlit sky untouched by ambient light.

Discover hidden nooks and waterholes, just begging you to swim in them on the 13-day AAT Kings Wonders of the Pilbara and West Coast tour.

Pink hues over Uluru at sunrise, Northern Territory; Karijini National Park, Western Australia. Image credits: Tourism NT; Tourism Western Australia

July

Ancient gallery
Kakadu, Northern Territory

Australia is home to some of the oldest art in the world, and you can see some of it on the ancient rock walls of Ubirr Rock, in Kakadu National Park. This mesmerising site houses Aboriginal rock paintings and carvings dating back more than 20,000 years. As for Kakadu, view the eye-wateringly beautiful panoramas from the escarpment or perhaps from a helicopter, see the iconic waterfalls and birdlife, go croc spotting on a Yellow Water Billabong Cruise and connect to the humbling First Nations history.

See the dramatic escarpments, waterholes and abundant wildlife of Kakadu looming large on a six-day AAT Kings Top End Highlights tour.

August

Coast with the most
Margaret River, Western Australia

Margaret River is blessed with nature’s gifts, from its wondrous coastline known for surf breaks and hiking tracks, to its wildflowers that bloom in Dhilba season (August–September), one of the six seasons of the Wadandi Boodjah. It’s also, of course, famous for its wine. Margaret River’s 200 vineyards produce 25 per cent of Australia’s premium wines, along with incredible fresh produce, from gourmet olive oil to chocolate. In Busselton, stroll along the longest wooden jetty in the Southern Hemisphere, at 1.8kms long. Sample amazing wine and enjoy the spectacular coastal views on a 15-day AAT Kings Western Wonderland tour.

A woman admires Aboriginal rock paintings in Ubirr, Kakadu National Park; Busselton Jetty, Busselton. Image credits: Helen Orr; Tourism Western Australia

September

Have a blooming good time
Floriade, Australian Capital Territory

September sees an explosion of colour and fragrances, around the banks of Canberra’s Lake Burley Griffin and into the suburbs, when Floriade takes centre stage from the goings on at Parliament House. With more than a million bulbs on display, Floriade runs for a month and is the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere. You will need plenty of time to take in the many garden beds, displays, market stalls and entertainment, marking a great start to spring.

Be mesmerised by the beautiful bright florals springing to life during Floriade, which can be enjoyed on AAT Kings three-day Capital Blooms tour.

October

Cultural immersion
Great Barrier Reef, Queensland

Expand your knowledge of the World Heritage-listed Great Barrier Reef on a fascinating tour that tells the story of the Reef through First Nations’ eyes. Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel conduct tours on the Great Barrier Reef, with their Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander sea rangers telling the story of the Reef through 65,000-year-old Dreamtime Creation stories. You will cruise to Moore Reef, where you can go swimming or snorkelling in the turquoise water among a kaleidoscope of fish and coral.

Experience a Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel Catamaran tour, an AAT Kings MAKE TRAVEL MATTER® Experience, on the 13-day Aboriginal Culture and Australian Highlights guided holiday.

Full bloom at Floriade, Canberra; Dreamtime Dive & Snorkel tour. Image credits: Visit Canberra; Tourism & Events Queensland

November

Glass and a half
Wineglass Bay, Tasmania

One of the most beautiful parts of Tasmania, the Freycinet Peninsula is home to the magnificent Hazards Range, its sawtooth peaks a dramatic backdrop. Even more striking is the mesmerising Wineglass Bay, its curving golden sands and blissful blue water making it one of Australia’s most beautiful beaches. Go for a cruise into Wineglass Bay, taking in the granite coastline, sea caves, waterfalls, and blowholes along the way. Back on land, marvel at the verdant patchwork of Cape Tourville’s forest.

Drink in the Wineglass Bay views on an AAT Kings seven-day Tassie Getaway.

December

Purple reign
Bridestowe Lavender Estate, Lutruwita/Tasmania

The world’s largest privately owned lavender farm Bridestowe Lavender Estate will tantalise your senses with an astonishing 650,000 plants. Visit this beautiful fragrant farm, that started in 1921 using lavender seeds from the southern French Alps, and stroll through the sea of purple. The lavender oil is free of additives, and is infused into ice cream, teas and jams, with plenty of other lavender products available. Afterwards, visit the Legerwood Carved Memorial Trees, sculpted into WW1 soldiers, and see little penguins in Bicheno.

See a purple lavender dreamscape on AAT Kings 10-day Tasmanian Wonders itinerary.

Wineglass Bay, Tasmania; Bridestowe Lavender Farm, Tasmania. Image credits: Tourism Australia; James Horan

View all of AAT Kings latest offers here.

This article is brought to you by AAT Kings.

To book your next adventure visit: Call 1300 228 546, or visit www.aatkings.com

The post Australia: The best places to visit in 2024 appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Photographer Lewis Burnett and I arrive on Wirruwana via a charter flight from Denham – population 750, give or take a few. On the ground here, it’s all red dirt, stunted samphire, tin-can fishing shacks and an impressive array of new-money mansions built to withstand cyclone season.

In the air, a different tapestry unfurls. The very same red dirt acquiesces to an aquamarine sea, its currents shaping and reshaping the sandbars and inlets of Shark Bay, and a seagrass meadow that in 2022 was identified as the world’s largest plant. This ribbon of Posidonia australis covers more than 200km2 of the bay and began life about the time the ancient Egyptians were building the Great Pyramids, some 4500 years ago.

Flinders University ecologist Dr Martin Breed, who co-authored a study on the ribbon weed, says it’s like someone’s lawn: “It grows through rhizomes, underground suckers, and then it pops up and green shoots appear. What we’ve observed in Shark Bay is essentially an extremely large lawn that has expanded and grown across a very large area. There are some parts of the lawn that have died, but there are lots of parts that are still alive.”

After taking off in our little Cessna, we bank west towards Wirruwana and the enormity of the “lawn’s” reach is revealed. To the north and south, meadows stretch – a shorthand of dark dashes, dots and swirls; and among these are the outlines of something else: dugongs and dolphins and turtles and rays and a thousand fish species drawing sustenance from the rich pickings.

The Coral Coast of WA stretches – roughly speaking – 1200km from north of Perth to Exmouth, along idyllic and largely deserted beaches and through nature reserves bursting with plant life and bustling with native animals. The strip is punctuated by charming coastal towns nestled beside the shimmering Indian Ocean.

Our seven-day journey begins in WA’s capital, at Perth’s Kings Park and Botanic Garden, with Belinda McCawley, a forest-bathing specialist. “We’re going to hang out with this tree here for a while,” Belinda says, her words mingling with the calls of red-tailed and Carnaby’s black-cockatoos. “I’m going to invite you to be really curious about everything around you. This next practice is all about slowing down and taking in all the beauty around you.” We stand, silent, steeping our senses. I feel the wind, conductor of leaves; hear the birds, masters of song; and smell the nectar, sweet notes of natives.

Belinda grew up in Busselton, a 2.5-hour drive to the south, and spent her childhood playing in nature. “And when I was older,” she says, “it helped me through those tough teenage years. Although I didn’t realise it back then, it was this time in nature that made me aware of its therapeutic benefits and inspired me to study environmental science, so I could give back.”

It was 20 years into her career that she decided to turn over a new leaf and began the transition from corporate worker to woodland sprite. “Forest therapy was a lightbulb moment for me,” Belinda says. “I revelled in that deep connection and playfulness. I’ve been doing it for three years now.”

As a movement, forest bathing has been around for more than 40 years, when it was introduced in Japan as ‘shinrin-yoku’, which means taking in the forest atmosphere.

“First proposed in 1982 by the Forest Agency of Japan as a public health initiative, shinrin-yoku is now a recognised relaxation and stress-management activity and the practice is spreading around the world,” Belinda says. “It’s proven to decrease the stress hormone cortisol, and improve mood.”

And it’s not just anecdotal evidence that supports these claims. “Research shows trees emit phytoncides [wood essential oils], which are antimicrobial volatile organic compounds, such as alpha-pinene and limonene. Trees emit phytoncides to protect themselves from bacteria and disease. When we’re in the forest, we’re actually breathing them in, too, and they’ve been found to be beneficial to human health. They have all the antis – anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal – and during the pandemic, research was conducted into phytoncides’ antiviral properties as well. So there’s scientific evidence to support why we feel so good when we’re with trees and in nature.” To reinforce her point, Belinda pulls a handful of leaves from her backpack. “These are the phytoncides,” she says. “Take a deep breath – it’s lemon-scented gum.”

I bury my nose. The smell is intoxicating, and I picture any ‘at risk’ cells within my body being thoroughly doused.
We walk on further, stopping to admire a trio of Carnaby’s munching on nuts in a grand marri tree. “I was here last night, on sunset, and the bird chatter was magnificent,” Belinda says. “When you slow down and just let yourself be, you open yourself up to all manner of magic.”

Pink as a pig’s ear and saltier than its bacon, Hutt Lagoon stops us in our tracks as we head north en route from Cervantes to Kalbarri on Day 2. The 70km2 lake is renowned for its hues of baby pink, salmon and blood-red – the result of Dunaliella salina, an alga that lives in the water and produces beta-carotene when exposed to sunlight.

Hutt Lagoon is separated from the Indian Ocean by a low-lying dune system. Locals such as Gavin Parker, with whom we spent last night stargazing, say you can swim here. But if you do, expect to exit the water somewhat pickled, and keep your thongs on – the bottom is lined with super-sharp salt crystals.

Gav runs tours to the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park, about 337km south of the lagoon, and we meet him about an hour before sunset amid the hundreds of limestone pillars that punch skyward from the coastal desert.
“The Pinnacles are made from golden quartz sand and limestone,” he says. “The latter came from seashells that were broken into lime-rich sands and blown inland. Over time, those sands calcified and turned into rock.

“Evidence suggests tuart forest [composed of the species Eucalyptus gomphocephala, which is a very tall eucalypt] grew out here, and the roots of the trees penetrated the rock, creating channels. Then a fire came through and destroyed all the vegetation. All that remained were the roots. Over time, water in the golden quartz sand seeped down through those channels and hardened, and that’s basically how the Pinnacles were formed.”

The outer portion of each is hard quartz sand while the inner core is softer limestone. “It’s thought they’re up to half a million years old but first appeared above ground 6000 years ago, based on the oldest Aboriginal artefacts that were found in the desert here. Since then, they’ve appeared and disappeared with the shifting sand. Most recently 450–500 years ago.”

According to Gav, the Dutch could see the Pinnacles Desert from the crow’s nests on their ships when sailing down the coast in the early 1600s. “They had it marked on some of their maps,” he says. “They thought it might have been a graveyard – looking like tombstones to them – but didn’t come ashore to have a look because the reef system goes out a long way and it was too dangerous. You can see we’re quite elevated here, above the ocean, so it would have been easy for them to spot.”

While the science of the Pinnacles is fascinating, it’s the Indigenous Creation stories that really captured the collective imagination of the tour group. The first was of the Yued, one of 14 clans of the Noongar, south-western WA’s First Nations people. “Local Elders say that these stories were told to try to discourage kids from coming out to the desert, because they might get lost,” Gav says. “They were told that if they did, the desert would swallow them up. The Pinnacles are the fingertips of the children who disobeyed their parents.”

Another is the story of Mulka and Djoondal, told to Gav by an Elder. “Mulka is the son of an Aboriginal woman and man who weren’t supposed to be together – they were from different skin groups. Because of this, he was born cursed, cross-eyed, and couldn’t throw spears straight. Instead, he used to hunt and eat the local children; they were much easier to catch.

“Djoondal is a spirit woman who lives in the sky. She has beautiful long white hair; it makes up the Milky Way. She saw Mulka eating the children so came down to Earth to save them. She gathered them in her hair and flew them into the sky. The stars you see are the children’s sparkling eyes.

“As the children grew, they scratched Djoondal’s head and their fingernails broke off and fell to Earth, landing in the desert and forming the Pinnacles.”

Landings on Wirruwana can be ‘interesting’. No falling fingernails, but the crosswinds, air-pressure pockets and dirt runway sure make it so. “It’s pretty spectacular flying here,” says our unflappable pilot Kyle, who relocated from flight training school in Tassie to Denham 12 months ago, and gets us down safely on Day 4. “Although on 45°C days [routine in summer] it’s not so much fun.” Agreed. Lewis and I had all windows wide open on the flight and were still dripping; the mercury hadn’t even tipped 40°C. Thankfully, flying over seabeds and channels with evocative names – Angel’s Wings and Tree of Life – was remarkably distracting.

Tory Wardle meets us at the end of the strip. She and husband Kieran have lived on Wirruwana since the early 1990s, raising their three children here, sans shoes, shirts and most of the other trappings of mainland life, while running Dirk Hartog Island Eco Lodge. But the island has been in the family far longer. Kieran’s grandfather, Sir Thomas Wardle, bought it in 1969, retreating from his duties as lord mayor of Perth in favour of fishing the island’s abundant waters. Kieran was seconded to manage Wirruwana at the tender age of 19, and apart from weekly footy trips to Perth to catch up with mates and the odd family holiday, he’s never left. As for Tory, well it’s a classic girl meets boy story. Girl comes to work as a chef on boy’s island. Girl also never leaves.

Up until 2009, the island was also home to 8000 or so sheep, and about the same number of goats. Feral cats were also abundant. In partnership with WA’s Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions (DBCA), the Wardles helped remove all of these (either pontooning them off the island, shooting or baiting them) to make way for a native species reintroduction program as part of the Dirk Hartog Island National Park Return to 1616 Ecological Restoration Project.

When Dutch explorer Dirk Hartog visited the island that now bears his name on 25 October 1616, it was a native animal ark. During the ensuing years, after colonisation (by both European humans and feral animals), 10 species of small placental mammals and marsupials, and the western grasswren, were wiped out. All are in the process of being returned to Wirruwana, with rufous and banded hare-wallabies, the boodie, dibbler, woylie, greater stick-nest rat and Shark Bay bandicoot now thriving.

We see evidence of this firsthand while returning from sundowners at the island’s westernmost point – tiny Shark Bay mice dart across the sandy track, and rufous hare-wallabies (mala) sit stock still, mesmerised by the golden beam of our headlights.

“Along with the native animals, the island’s plants have rebounded brilliantly too,” Kieran says. “Like the Dampier’s rose, which was actually the first botanical specimen ever collected in Australian colonial history, in 1699 by William Dampier, and the native hibiscus.

“The chuditch [western quoll] is the last on the list for reintroduction. It’ll be amazing to see its spots and dots disappearing into the undergrowth in the years to come.”

Eruption!” The cry comes from 5m to my left, followed by a mini stampede. Across the dunes people rush, children and adults alike, eager to witness the event. I hang back. A turtle eruption is a sacred thing – life beginning and oftentimes ending all in a matter of minutes – and I’m concerned all those feet will create chaos for the hatchlings. It’s Day 6 and Lewis and I have come to Jurabi and Bundegi Coastal Park, on the Ningaloo (Nyinggulu) Coast, a short drive from Exmouth, just before sunset in the hope of photographing an eruption. Green, loggerhead and hawksbill turtles breed in the shallow waters here between September and December, with females coming ashore to nest. Roughly 60 days later, hatchlings begin to emerge.

Although the DBCA has published a code of conduct for turtle nesting and hatching, which you can find on its website, it’s obvious that all but a handful of the 60 or so people on the beach this afternoon have either not read it or simply don’t care about following the protocol.

It clearly states that very few turtle hatchlings survive to reach adulthood after the nest erupts, contending with hungry gulls on their perilous dash to the sea and once the hatchlings reach the water.

The code asks people to:
• Let them flow – allow hatchlings to make their own way to the ocean. They take a magnetic imprint of the beach, which allows them to return to their birthplace in adulthood. Don’t get between hatchlings and the ocean, stay still and allow a clear path to the water.
• Stay below the dunes – avoid trampling on nests and emerging hatchlings. Walk along the water’s edge to minimise disturbance.

Instead, people surround the nest as it erupts, blocking both the light of the setting sun and the path to the ocean.

The Ningaloo Coast’s tourism boom during the COVID years has been monumental – WA residents roamed while the rest of the country was locked out, many spending big on luxury 4WDs and boats, towing them north to explore the riches of the region. Social media accounts, too, and the rise of #vanlife, celebrated the region’s exquisite natural beauty – its red earth, turquoise water and dramatic coastal ranges – as well as its extraordinary wildlife, including the world’s largest fish, the whale shark.

We’d spent our morning aboard the 60-foot catamaran, Windcheetah, dipping in and out of the waters of Ningaloo Marine Park, home to one of the world’s largest fringing reefs and one of the most reliable places to swim with these behemoths. The cohort here, mostly juvenile males measuring about 5m, will grow up to 20m in length.

Before swimming, however, our ability was assessed in the park’s relatively shallow inner reef. Underwater, a world of coral bommies and kaleidoscopic fishes revealed itself, and Ash Jansen, our on-board photographer, schooled us in how to best position ourselves for a photo when a shark passes by.

Back on the catamaran, we were divided into two groups – no more than 10 people can swim with a shark at any one time – and the rules of engagement were explained.

“You’re going to be dropped into open ocean and need a level of comfort around that,” Ash said. “And you’re most likely not going to be able to see the bottom. If you’re not okay at any time, your in-water guide will be there with a float for you to hold onto. You can’t try to touch or ride on a whale shark. You can’t get closer than 3m from the head or body, and 4m from the tail. And you can’t use flash photography.”

Working in tandem with our vessel was a spotter plane, and before long it had a swimmer in its sights. The skipper pushed the throttle forward and positioned Windcheetah in the path of the oncoming shark (the minimum approach distance is 30m). And then we jumped in, bobbing like corks as our guide lined us up for optimum viewing. “Heads down, heads down,” Ash yelled. And as we did, it swam by, giant filter-feeding mouth agape and massive caudal fin swinging hypnotically from side to side. Extraordinary indeed.

Our next encounter came just 20 minutes later, with a ‘bubble chaser’, a colloquial term for a whale shark that likes bubbles. “They mistake them for food, so if you get caught in front of one, move to its side as quickly as you can without creating bubbles [from kicking or splashing], otherwise it’ll chase you,” Ash advised. One of our swimmers did, and it did, and the pair had to be separated.

By our fourth shark, we were well versed in the practice, and I swam alongside it, eye-to-eye for a time, marvelling at its inky cloak and glowing white spots until it slid silently into the big blue and finally disappeared from view. Back on the boat it was a slow and splendid return to shore, with one final stop for a snorkel with a wizened sea turtle.

Much like all our days on the Coral Coast, this last one was golden. From forest bathing to pink-lake gazing and shark chasing, we both had a whale of a time.

Top 10 things to do on WA’s Coral Coast:

1. Forest bathe in Kings Park and Botanic Garden – Mindful in Nature

2. Explore the other-worldly landscape of the Pinnacles, Nambung NP – Lumineer Adventure Tours

3. Count the stars and satellites at Kalbarri – D’Guy Charters

4. Haul out on Dirk Hartog Island to swim with sicklefin lemon sharks and toast Australia’s last sunset – Dirk Hartog Island Eco Lodge

5. Hike the extraordinary limestone Cape Range NP – Trek Ningaloo

6. Swim with whale sharks in World Heritage-listed Ningaloo Marine Park – Ningaloo Discovery Tours

7. Witness a turtle eruption in Jurabi and Bundegi Coastal Park, Exmouth – exploreparks.dbca.wa.gov.au/park/ jurabi-and-bundegi-coastal-park

8. Frolic with sea lions at Jurien Bay – australiascoralcoast.com

9. Marvel at the pastel hues of Hutt Lagoon – australiascoralcoast.com

10. Discover the stromatolites and thrombolites at Lake Thetis – visitpinnaclescountry.com.au

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Image: Most of the whale sharks that ply the waters of Ningaloo Reef are juvenile males. You can swim with them via an organised charter from March–August.

Australian Geographic thanks Tourism WA for its assistance with this story.

Related: Western Australian adventures: Three of the best

The post West side story appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Goolwa is at the entrance to the Murray and was a vital transport link between the wool shipped down river from the vast sheep properties of western New South Wales and southern Queensland and their overseas markets. It’s a genuinely fascinating small town and port that offers visitors a series of memorable experiences. These include a historic perspective into the importance of the Murray as a transport route before railway lines were built, and the opportunity to explore the unique and stable culture of the Ngarrindjeri people.

Perhaps most attractively, there’s the opportunity to take a cruise through the barrages, which separate the salt water of the Southern Ocean and the river’s fresh water, across the mouth of the Murray and along the quiet waters of the Coorong wetlands, made famous by Colin Thiele’s much-loved story of Storm Boy and his pet pelican, Mr Percival. The area is noted for its white beaches, isolation, and impressive boutique restaurants, cafes and charming accommodation options.

Note: The Murray is known as the River Murray in SA; in NSW and SA it is called the Murray River.

Places of interest

1. Goolwa State Heritage Area

This estate encompasses 17 noteworthy buildings. These include the Goolwa Hotel, which dates from 1853 and features the figurehead from the Irish sailing ship Mozambique, and the Old Police Station and Court House, built between 1859 and 1874. Also worth visiting are the wharf, originally built in 1852 (later rebuilt and extended), and the former railway horse stables built in 1863 behind the Post Office, for the horses that pulled the train from Goolwa to Port Elliot. They were replaced by locomotives in 1884.

2. National Trust Museum

Housed in a blacksmith’s shop that was built in about 1872 is the National Trust Museum. Offering a fascinating insight into the history of Goolwa and Hindmarsh Island.

3. The Cockle Train

A superb old steam engine, the Cockle Train travels along Australia’s oldest steel railway. It dates to 1854 and was built to provide a link between the Goolwa and Port Elliot wharves and, later, Victor Harbor. The train runs at different times during the year but typically offers three return trips between Goolwa and Victor Harbor on Sundays and Wednesdays. The journey takes 30 minutes.

4. The Goolwa Barrages

The Murray travels 2508km before reaching lakes Alexandrina and Albert and emptying into the sea. These lakes, along with the Coorong (the lagoon that stretches from the Murray’s mouth along the SA coastline) need fresh water to remain healthy. But if too little water flows from the upper reaches of the Murray, salt water can reach hundreds of kilometres upriver. During the 1930s, five barrages were built near Goolwa to help keep the salt water out. You can see them on a local cruise or from the road running beside Lake Alexandrina. There are also cruises to the Murray’s mouth, along the river itself, around Coorong National Park, and upriver from Goolwa. Expect to see many of the region’s 200 bird species, including black swans and pelicans.

5. PS Oscar W Cruises

A one-hour cruise on the historic paddle-steamer PS Oscar-W usually departs from Goolwa Wharf at 11am on a Saturday or Sunday, once or twice a month. Bookings are recommended.

History

Before Europeans arrived, the area was home to the Ngarrindjeri people.

By the 1820s, whalers and sealers were operating here.

Charles Sturt travelled down the Murray in 1829–1830 to its mouth at Lake Alexandrina.

Goolwa, originally known as Port Pullen, was surveyed in 1853.

In 1854 a railway was built between Port Elliot and Goolwa at a cost of £20,000.

The original jetty was built at Goolwa in 1852.

By 1853 paddle-steamers were operating on the Murray from Goolwa to Swan Hill.

The first blocks in Goolwa were sold for about £20.

In 1857 Goolwa was officially proclaimed the first river port in Australia and grew quickly to
service the vast inland of western NSW and Queensland.

By 1860 there was a road connecting Adelaide to Goolwa.

The five Goolwa Barrages were completed in 1940 for £750,000.

In 1981 the Murray River’s mouth closed for the first time in recorded history.

In 2001 the Hindmarsh Island Bridge was opened.

In 2009 the Clayton Regulator was created to increase water in the Goolwa Channel and
Goolwa Marina.

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Image credit: Darryl Leach/shutterstock

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Goolwa, SA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Located between Sydney and Newcastle, the Central Coast is a region brimming with abundant natural beauty best enjoyed with a boat in tow, a surfboard on the roof racks or a picnic hamper in the boot. Here are some of our favourite aqua attractions:

Central Coast beaches

The most famous of Central Coast beaches is undoubtedly Terrigal. Not only has Terrigal been the boutique shopping and dining hub of the region for generations, but the beach has always been a popular family friendly location. The surf club watches over ocean swimmers who meet up as the day breaks, families picnicking on the sand and beginner surfers. It’s worth having a dip at the small, recently restored ocean bath and walking across the multi-million-dollar boardwalk that skirts a cliff-face around to Terrigal Haven. The Haven is perfect for gentle swimming and snorkelling, and you’ll often see beginner scuba divers descending into the calm water. Fishermen love throwing in a line off the rocks, while kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders (SUP) also launch here. Grab a coffee afterwards from Haven Bay Kiosk in the Haven, or Freestate Café in Terrigal village.

Another popular stretch of sand is Avoca Beach, featuring a nostalgic old-world theatre and beach shacks holding onto their views of the waves. This beach is wide and long, with a mix of point and beach breaks for surfers. It’s also patrolled by lifeguards, and the surf club overlooks a large rock pool that’s ideal for toddler and beginner snorkellers. If the swell is too big, wander north along the sand to Avoca Lake (formerly Avoca Lagoon) for a gentle splash or to hire a pedalboat, kayak or SUP from ECO Certified family business Aquafun Avoca Lake.

To the south, other top beaches are Copacabana and MacMasters, best known for their surf and tight-knit communities, while Maitland Bay is a hidden gem for visitors willing to hike through Bouddi National Park.

North of Terrigal, you will find Shelly Beach, a golden stretch that’s partially open to responsible dog walkers and a great spot for diving through waves between the flags. Even further north near Norah Head there’s the first National Surfing Reserve on the Central Coast, with world-class surfable options including two Point breaks, three Bomboras and two Reef breaks. If you’re keen on surfing, head here to get the low-down of the top spots.

Around the corner from Soldiers Beach is Cabbage Tree Harbour, which has a rock pool kids adore. For tips on how to make your beach vacation the best it can be, head to lovecentralcoast.com.

If you’re keen to mingle with locals and do your part in keeping your favourite holiday destination pristine, join a Take 3 for the Sea beach clean-up. The world-famous non-profit has its roots in the region, and has partnered with Central Coast Council to support the region’s ECO Destination journey, encouraging responsible tourism and, regularly holding volunteer days; visit their website to stay in the loop.

Lakes and lagoons

With the ocean to the east and countless waterfalls, rivers, creeks and lakes, it’s no surprise the Central Coast has blossomed into one of Australia’s first ECO Destinations. The certification with Ecotourism Australia recognises the Central Coast as “a world-class destination for sustainable, nature-based tourism” and acknowledges the region’s “superb natural beauty” and residents’ connection to the land.

Take 3 For the Sea is one example of how locals have amassed momentum to look after their environment and beyond, but it’s not the only initiative that encourages people to care for the region’s waterways. Central Coast Council has a Love Our Waterways project that monitors the water quality and more at places such as Terrigal and Wamberal lagoons, and Brisbane Water, ensuring you can enjoy the waterways year-round. Their website offers a treasure trove of ways to learn and explore by bike, foot or watercraft.

When it comes to lakes waterways, the Central Coast is blessed, with the sprawling Brisbane Water receiving most of the limelight. You can’t blame it; it’s a stunning introduction to road-trippers exiting from the M1 into Gosford, where sailing boats nest in its bays. But Brisbane Water stretches far beyond Gosford, spreading its fingers around the mangroves of Woy Woy, and the shallows of Davistown. Whether you’re into fishing, wakeboarding, sightseeing or kayaking, Brisbane Water is an idyllic spot.

Clockwise from left: Bushwalking to Mount Pleasant; Brisbane Water from above; Saratoga from above; Saratoga’s jetties. Image credits: James Horan courtesy of Destination Central Coast.

It’s not the only star attraction though, as in the north you will find Tuggerah Lakes, on the edge of Toukley and The Entrance. If you want to get onto the water, hire a row boat or barbecue boat from The Entrance, or go sailing, canoeing or fishing from Toukley, or SUPing at Canton Beach.

Another top spot from which to enjoy Tuggerah Lake is Long Jetty, where you can cycle along its foreshore, dotted with playgrounds and picnic tables, and wander its timber jetties. The longest jetty of which the suburb takes its name can be found opposite Archbold Road; there you will discover a small sandy beach and reclining chairs for lazy lake-side reading. Long Jetty is also home to a thriving creative community, so it’s worth spending a day there. Stop into Burnt Honey Bakery for a pastry or cookie, before walking or cycling down to the lake. Then head back into the hubbub for lunch at Mr Sha Shas, before strolling along “the strip” to pick up anything from vintage homewares to DIY beauty treatments. You can round out your day with a yoga class at Komuniti.

Rivers and creeks

On the Central Coast’s southern boundary you will find the stunning Hawkesbury River, a waterway that’s home to islands, gentle bays and sustainable oyster leases. Just off the M1 at Mooney Mooney, Broken Bay Pearl Farm – the only pearl farm in NSW. Join a tour to learn how the pearls are grown and harvested and the wildlife and history of the river. For an immersive, ECO Certified experience visit Sydney Oyster Farm Tours where you can dine in the very waters your oysters are harvested from.

Although the majority of the Hawkesbury River is considered part of Sydney, the tiny postcode of Spencer is part of the Central Coast and makes for a relaxing drive along a road that winds its way through bushland and alongside tributaries. Stop at Spencer for a cuppa or bite to eat, join an educational kayak tour, go fishing, or set off on the Old Great North Road to learn about the Dharug Aboriginal peoples and convict heritage.

Spotting a waterfall in Brisbane Water National Park and creek crossing in Piles Creek Loop Brisbane Water National Park. Image credits: James Vodicka

Waterfalls

Autumn, spring and summer are perfect for exploring the Central Coast Hinterland, where quiet walking trails lead to picturesque waterfalls and refreshing swimming holes. The waterfalls attract road-trippers from Sydney and Newcastle, and are popular with local families who often pack their swimmers and a picnic. Although winter rain brings gushing falls, it’s best to leave this time to intrepid travellers, especially if you’re visiting with young children.

Not far from the M1 is Girrakool Falls and picnic area in Brisbane Water National Park, where there are barbecues and plenty of green space for kids to run around. Follow the recently upgraded Piles Creek Loop, which will see you crossing a suspension bridge on your way to the waterfalls. Kids will love meeting the local brush turkeys and sunbathing lizards. The park also features Kariong Brook Falls, reached by a 3.2km (one-way) bush track from Staples Lookout. These falls are off-the-beaten path, and you’ll need an adventurous spirit to reach them as the trail is steep and thickly vegetated – be sure to check NPWS alerts and closures ahead of your trip.

If you’ve visited all of those and are seeking somewhere different, head to Popran National Park, in Mangrove Mountain. Start at Ironbark Falls Reserve and follow a path to the little-known Ironbark Falls. You’ll need a 4WD to reach the picnic area off Ironbark Road due to erosion; if you don’t have one, you can walk the final 850 metres.

A touch to the north is Strickland State Forest, an ecotourism attraction that has been inducted into the Hunter Central Coast Tourism Awards Hall of Fame. No doubt Strickland Falls, one of the region’s most beautiful natural assets, has something to do with this. There are no fees to access the forest, which has plenty of walking trails, a picnic area and even an arboretum.

While exploring the Central Coast Hinterland, it’s worth calling into the region’s celebrated organic farms, such as Grace Springs Farm, Meliora Farm, and Fanelli Organics. Some of the farms have open days, run tours, and/or have roadside fruit and veg stands. Find out more here.

Whether you visit for the beaches or prefer a jaunt through bushland to a hidden waterfall, the NSW Central Coast offers superb natural beauty, connection to the land and a sense of freedom and space.

Hemmed by hinterland, the Pacific Ocean and vast inland waterways, guests can easily immerse themselves in the region’s unique natural environment. Tread lightly and go slow on the Central Coast, a slice of East Coast paradise.

Visit Love Central Coast’s new waterways and coastlines hub now.

This Love Central Coast project is brought to you by Destination Central Coast and jointly funded by the Australian and NSW governments under the Bushfire Local Economic Recovery Fund.

The post The way of the water appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Train journeys have always had an air of romance as the trains huffed and puffed to scenic places while those on board sipped and supped, dressed in their finery. Trains were sublimely elegant, with regal dining cars and impeccable service. And out of the window, an endless display of stunning scenery kept passengers enthralled. Fast forward a century or two, and nothing much has changed. Train journeys are still in demand, are still luxurious, and still offer a world of majesty out the window…especially when you are talking about Rocky Mountaineer.

Rocky Mountaineer combines the heritage of the glamorous rail journeys of old with modern-day innovation, creature comforts and gourmet cuisine. Then add the resplendent landscapes that will be streaming by, live and in thrilling colour, out of the panoramic window on numerous Rocky Mountaineer rail journeys through Canada’s west. Adventure World’s Authentic Canada Collection showcases these rail journeys on beautifully curated itineraries that highlight some of the best of Canada.

While onboard their custom-designed glass-dome coaches in GoldLeaf or SilverLeaf Service, you’ll wind through mountain passes and hug the cliffs of majestic canyons, take in awe-inspiring vistas across rich, rural landscapes and verdant forests. You may even see bears and other wildlife. Add to that the impressive gourmet cuisine, which the award-winning Rocky Mountaineer chefs have curated from local produce and fine wines grown in the areas through which the train cruises through. Add vibrant storytelling from the wonderful crew on board, and impeccable, friendly service, and you’ll feel a deeper, more heartfelt connection with Canada. From vibrant cities to idyllic wilderness, Adventure World can unlock the essence of Canada for you with four itineraries, all of which can be customised to fit your style, your pace and your interests. It will be a life-changing experience.

Authentic Canada

On this 22-day Authentic Canada itinerary, journey from Vancouver on the Pacific Coast across to the French province, Quebec, with an incredible array of experiences along the way. Spend two days onboard Rocky Mountaineer, venturing from Vancouver to Banff (via Kamloops), where you’ll take to the skies in a helicopter for an eagle-eye view over this most beautiful of places. Marvel at the wonders of three national parks, Banff, Yoho, and Jasper, before venturing to Toronto. Be totally awestruck with a tour of Niagara Falls and the postcard-pretty Niagara Peninsula, then it is on to Ottawa, Canada’s capital, where you can go on an electric-boat tour on the heritage-listed Rideau Canal, visit the New Gothic parliamentary buildings and perhaps visit one of the many excellent museums. From Ottawa, travel to Montréal in Québec Province. This historic and beautiful city sits on an island in the Saint Lawrence River and is known for its architecture and burgeoning food scene. After taking in some of the sights on this overnight stay, journey to Quebec City, spending several days soaking up its history before it is time to fly home.

Authentic Canadian Rockies

For 10 days and nine nights, Adventure World’s Authentic Canadian Rockies itinerary will show the best of the best of the majestic Rocky Mountains. Spend a few days enjoying some of Vancouver’s many delights before boarding Rocky Mountaineer for two-days of sightseeing wonders onboard a GoldLeaf Service carriage from Vancouver to Jasper, with a night in Kamloops on the way. The achingly beautiful sights of Jasper, Lake Louise and Banff, as well as the spectacular glaciers along the Icefields Parkway, are momentous. Experience the magical scenery and wildlife of the Rocky Mountains and the charming towns of Banff, Jasper and Lake Louise. Go for a hike, take the tongs for a backcountry cooking tour, do a bike tour, and see what you can spot on a wildlife tour. Turn up the cool factor on a tour of the Columbia Icefield down the Icefields Parkway, and see many of the famous lakes with the striking blue colour that looks almost too blue to be true. This itinerary is not just about showcasing the finest of Canada’s wilderness and culture, but it is also about the exceptional accommodation. Your experience will be totally elevated staying at the world-renowned Fairmont Resorts that are destinations in their own right – jewels in the Rocky Mountains’ crown.

Sip and Savour

Perfectly named, this 12-day, 11-night Sip and Savour experience is a culinary themed journey that should be on the menu for foodies. It will be a delectable journey through Western Canada, with the first bite taken on Victoria Island which is known for its old world charm, and its culinary scene. From here, experience an exhilarating sea plane transfer to Whistler for a feast in the mountains, and in Vancouver, immerse in the foodie hot spot of Gastown, Vancouver’s number one foodie district. Granville Island is another taste sensation, with its public market a veritable gourmet buffet.

From Vancouver, board the Rocky Mountaineer for a two-day trip enjoying SilverLeaf Service to Lake Louise, via Kamloops. From Lake Louise, visit Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks, one of the most magnificent photo opportunities in the Canadian Rockies. More spectacular sights await in Yoho National Park and in Banff, saddle up for a western style cookout on horseback or on a covered wagon, go animal on a wildlife tour and ride up Banff Gondola for mesmerising panoramas. From Banff, travel the Icefields Parkway to Jasper, venturing onto a glacier on an Ice Explorer tour, and be awestruck by the landscapes below the Glacier Skywalk. In Jasper, hike to a mountain peak for a hands-on backcountry cooking lesson, where everything will taste better in that pristine mountain air.

Mountain Peaks Rail Loop

Discover the spectacular scenery of British Columbia’s interior and the Canadian Rockies on this circular adventure. Encounter the wild and the wonderful on the 14-day round-trip Mountain Peaks Rail Loop itinerary, with the potential to spot bears, moose, elk and bighorn sheep in their natural habitat. Ride the rails with Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver to Banff, with that an overnight stop in Kamloops. Enjoy SilverLeaf Service as you get swept up in the majestic scenery of the Fraser Valley, Hell’s Gate in the Fraser Canyon, and the steep slopes along the Thompson River. In Banff, marvel at the always beautiful Bow Falls, Surprise Corner Lookout, Hoodoos Viewpoint and Lake Minnewanka, take in the scenery alongside the Bow River on horseback, do a wildlife tour, and drink in the view from the top of the Banff Gondola at Sulphur Mountain. Lake Louise, Moraine Lake and the magnificent Takkakaw Falls deliver more awe-inspiring vistas, as do your activities in Jasper, including Maligne Canyon’s waterfalls, Medicine Lake and Maligne Lake, where you will do a scenic cruise and pedal through eye-wateringly beautiful country on an e-bike tour in Jasper National Park. Head back to Vancouver and venture up the Sea to Sky Highway to Whistler for mountain views that will leave you breathless, including those from the challenging Sky Pilot Suspension Bridge.

From Whistler, it is back to Vancouver, where your Authentic Canadian experience might end – however, the sights you have seen will be forever imprinted in your memory.

More trackside adventure

If you want your Rocky Mountaineer train journey to continue, consider adding on the newest route, Rockies to Red Rocks – Peaks to Canyons. This spectacular train journey takes you through majestic countryside between Denver, Colorado and Moab, Utah, with an overnight stop in Glenwood Springs. Adventure World has a wonderful 14-day itinerary comprising visits to six national parks – including the Grand Canyon.

2024 Black Friday Promotion

AU$425 / NZ$450 off per person when booking a GoldLeaf or SilverLeaf 2024 two- or three-day Rail Only journeys on our Canadian routes.

Can apply to all our Canada packages – Authentic Canada, Authentic Canadian Rockies, Sip & Savour, Mountain Peaks Rail Loop.

AU$565 / NZ$620 off per person when booking a SilverLeaf Plus or SilverLeaf 2024 two-day Rail Only journey on our Rockies to the Red Rocks route. Applies to Rockies to Red Rocks – Peaks & Canyons itinerary.

T&Cs: On sale from 10 November until 4 December 2023. Not available in conjunction with other in-market consumer offers. Offer has no cash value and is non-transferable. Offer applicable for all travel dates in 2024. All figures advertised are expressed in AUD & NZD as a guideline only and may vary at the time of booking based on changes in exchange rate with the CAD for our Canadian routes and USD for our US route.

Discover extraordinary adventures with Adventure World. We’re travellers like you, offering authentic experiences. Let’s explore together!

Unlock the world with Adventure World – your passport to extraordinary adventures.

This article is brought to you by Adventure World.

The post Moving mountains in Canada appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Storytelling is an art form and can be done in many ways, through talk, words, art, music, dance and light. An ancient story is being told in a new way in our red heart at Uluṟu, and it intertwines people, culture and history in a beautifully creative and important way. If you’re looking for a transformative trip, then look no further. Because something truly special is happening in Uluṟu and you need to see it… now.  

Called Wintjiri Wiṟu, which means ‘beautiful view out to the horizon’ in the local Pitjantjatjara language, this incredible and dreamlike experience is a meticulous reimagining of the Mala story. A new cultural storytelling experience developed in beautiful collaboration with the Anangu people who have one of the oldest living continuous cultures in the world. They have been the custodians of this Country and its many stories, since time began. It is the first time in the world that an Indigenous story has been performed on this scale, and on a regular basis. 

The story of Wintjiri Wiṟu

This story is not just pages in a book, or delicately plucked from distant memory. It is a story rooted in the land, the waterholes, the animals and the history in the landscape.  As custodians of the land, the Anangu people hold the Mala story from Kaltukatjara to Uluṟu. To share their story, RAMUS designed and produced an artistic platform using drones, light and sound to create an immersive storytelling experience. The story is shared through the clever and innovative use of exquisitely choreographed drones, lasers and projections.

The scale is huge. Imagine over 1100 drones lighting up the sky as they dive and wave and change from various patterns and colours to the shape-shifting Kurpany – the ‘devil dog’ with his red eyes glaring – all performed in a natural, open-air desert theatre. Wintjiri Wiru was respectfully curated over many years by senior Anangu people from Docker River and Uluṟu, Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia and media architecture studio, RAMUS. Watching on, guests will feel a powerful connection to Country with the mesmerising visuals accompanied by narration in Pitjantjatjara and Yankunytjatjara languages, and complemented by a soundtrack of traditional inma recorded by members of the community.

It will be a special experience, with a story passed on for thousands of generations from the world’s oldest living culture, now passing to you.

The Wintjiri Wiṟu experience

There are multiple ways to see this visually stunning and culturally-important experience. Choose the Sunset Dinner experience where you can enjoy a gourmet hamper that shines a spotlight on native ingredients while marvelling at the incredible sunset, select the Twilight performance where you’ll enjoy Australian wines with delicious cheese and dessert selections, or opt for the After Dark show, which offers light refreshments. You’ll view the show from a sustainably-built platform on a dune top with breathtaking panoramic views of both Uluṟu and Kata Tjuta. Another great initiative is the artwork from local Anangu artist and community member, Christine Brumby, that has been cut into elements of the steel separating the seating levels of the platform.

It is not just this skyscraping, ground-breaking cultural experience that will leave you starstruck – there are other wonderful culturally enriching activities to enjoy and appreciate. With the focus on Wintjiri Wiṟu being in the sky, turn your focus downwards for the renowned Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro. Immerse further into Indigenous culture by joining a dot-painting workshop, and leave time to experience the spiritual wonder of Uluṟu. Choose to wander around the base of this majestic monolith on foot, on a bike or on a Segway. It is an ethereal experience – the textures of the rock, the beauty of the waterfalls and the meaning of the ancient art will stir your soul.

Back at the resort, enjoy a range of restaurants and resort bars, take a dip in the pool or just relax and think about what you have seen and the cultural learnings you will take home.

Visit Uluṟu and make a difference

Visiting Uluṟu to see Wintjiri Wiṟu will not only impact you, but will also make a big difference to Indigenous Australians. Voyages has long had a major focus on supporting Indigenous Australians, by feeding profits back into education, training and employment through their National Indigenous Training Academy. Voyages also supports Indigenous enterprises such as food and beverage suppliers through experiences like Wintjiri Wiṟu, and supports local artists as well, through the Gallery of Central Australia, and through support for remote art centres by providing commercial avenues for their work. These partnerships with the Anangu people shines a spotlight on their culture, which in turn engages younger generations of the Anangu people as well as non-Anangu people. By going to Uluṟu and witnessing Wintjiri Wiṟu, you are supporting Indigenous Australians and their stories, and that will make you feel good.

What are you waiting for? Take our word for it and book to visit Uluṟu to see Wintjiri Wiṟu, where an unforgettable connection to Country awaits.

Book a spectacular holiday to experience the Wintjiri Wiru with the whole family.

This article was brought to you by Ayers Rock Resort.

The post Collaborative storytelling through 1000 drones lights up the sky at Uluru appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Cue was established in the 1890s by miners determined to make their fortune on the rich gold reefs surrounding the town. Its population waxed and waned, depending on the changing fortunes of the gold industry, but at its height, Cue boasted a population of more than 10,000. By 1894, permanent buildings were constructed from locally quarried limestone slabs, suggesting that the “metropolis” was predicted to last for generations, if not centuries.

Today, these stone buildings – most notably the Gentlemen’s Club, Old Gaol, Courthouse, Police Station and Masonic Lodge – are easy to find (most are on the main street). The remote town is surrounded by the blood-red sand of WA’s Mid West region, as well as salt lakes and breakaways. Each spring, the district blooms with spectacular displays of wildflowers.

Location:

Cue is 642km north-east of Perth via the Great Northern Highway and 420km east of Geraldton.

Origin of Name:

In 1893, Cue was officially named after the prospector Tom Cue, who travelled to Nannine and registered a gold claim. Ironically, Tom Cue was not the person who discovered gold at the site, but he did find gold at what is now called Agnew.

Visitor Information :

Cue District Visitor Centre
72 Austin Street.

Useful Websites:

cue.wa.gov.au

westernaustralia.com

Places of interest

1. Masonic Lodge

In Dowley Street stands the Masonic Lodge, one of the few buildings in Cue not built from stone. The plaque outside details its history: “Built in 1899 of timber and galvanised iron with a pressed tin interior, this unusual building is said to be the largest corrugated iron structure in the Southern Hemisphere.” Monthly meetings of Masons were held here until the early 1970s. The lodge closed in 1979 and was later bought by the National Trust.

2. Band Rotunda

The band rotunda is a beautiful monument in Austin Street, built over the “Old Well”, which was sunk in 1893 and became the lifeblood of the town during the goldrush. The rotunda was built in 1904 and is dedicated to the pioneers of the Murchison region. The octagonal bandstand was once a popular meeting place. In the early years of the settlement, bands played here every Saturday night.

3. Cue Shire Office – Gentlemen’s Club

At the northern end of Austin Street is the Shire Office. This handsome stone building was financed by the London and Western Australian Investment Company and had 18 offices and two shops. In January 1901 the upper floor became home to the Murchison Club, used by Cue’s leading business, mining, pastoral and professional men. It later became known as the Gentlemen’s Club.

4. Ruins of Cue Hospital

Cue’s first hospital was a canvas and bough shed erected north of the town in July 1892 after an outbreak of typhoid fever. Three years later, a new hospital was built from local stone and boasted spacious wards and shady verandahs. The hospital closed in 1942 and fell into ruins. Several walls still stand, including the crumbling remains of the hospital crematorium’s chimney.

5. Aboriginal Art – Walga Rock

About 50km west of Cue is one of WA’s finest galleries of Aboriginal rock art. Of particular interest is a painting of a white, square-rigged sailing ship with two masts and square portholes – interestingly, this area is more than 300km from the sea. No accurate date can be placed on the art, but it was almost certainly painted before 1900.

6. Government Buildings

Impressive government buildings, built between 1895 and 1897 – including the Warden’s Court, old Post Office and Police Station – are found on Austin Street.

7. Old Gaol

The Cue Caravan Park now houses the Old Gaol that was built in 1896 to a design provided by the WA Architectural Department. It was not designed as a permanent gaol but rather as a temporary place to hold prisoners being transported to the larger centres on the coast. The gaol officially closed in 1914, but it was still used as a lock-up until the 1930s.

History

Before European settlement, the area was home to the Wajarri First Nations people.

Gold was discovered at Cue in 1892. Within days, 400 miners had arrived in the area.

The town of Cue was gazetted in 1893.

In 1894 Premier John Forrest visited Cue and promised to build a telegraph line, a railway and permanent government buildings. The telegraph was completed that year.

By 1895 another town – Day Dawn – was established south of Cue, close to the Great Fingall Mine (pictured).

By 1896 Cue and Day Dawn boasted three newspapers between them: The Murchison Miner, The Murchison Times and Day Dawn Gazette and The Murchison Advocate.

Cue Railway Station opened in 1897.

By 1900 Cue had a population of about 10,000.

The Great Fingall Mine at Day Dawn closed in 1918.

By 1933 there were fewer than 500 people living in and around Cue.

In 2006 Cue was classified by the National Trust.

The town won WA’s Tidy Towns award in 2006 and the Tidy Towns National Litter Prevention category in 2007.

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Image credit: courtesy State Library of Victoria

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Cue, WA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For a true traveller, it is the little things that make a trip. It is the unexpected scenic delights pictured out a vehicle window. The stops in charming rural towns that always have quirky shops and colourful, friendly characters. It is the many things that are not the highlights of an itinerary, but a beautiful, meaningful, complement to the main show.

Ontario, Canada’s second largest province covering an area larger than France and Spain combined, is home to the capital, Ottawa, which might be the centre of Canadian politics but is not staid, or at all dull. This impressive province has a rich history, with Algonquian and Iroquoian people settling on this land as far back as 12,000 years ago. In fact, the name Ontario is said to come from the Iroquois word for sparkling water. Considering there are over 250,000 lakes in this vast province, it is an apt name.

Treadright in Ontario with Adventure World

Adventure World can help unlock the delights of Ontario on a range of thoughtfully curated itineraries. With over four decades of experience, Adventure World knows its destinations inside out and back to front. They know what their guests want, and as their itineraries are custom, they can be tailored to suit the client. After all, every guest is different and has varied interests. You can count on Adventure World to create the perfect itinerary, working with partners that they have forged relationships with over 40 years. Another plus is that Adventure World is part of The Travel Corporation and is intertwined with the innovative Treadright Foundation. This means that the company aims to have a positive impact on the people and communities visited, to care for the planet, and to protect wildlife and marine life. As we all care about our imprint, travelling with Adventure World is a win win for all.

Authentic Ontario

Adventure World’s new Authentic Collection opens up Ontario with itineraries that allow thoughtful travellers to immerse in the vibrant beauty and rich culture of this province during Mother Nature’s show stopping autumn season.

Choose the Ontario’s Heartland itinerary, which is a round trip journey from Toronto. The 11-day journey is a self-guided curated road trip that winds its way from the city lights of Toronto through charming cottage country, admiring ethereal old-growth forests and swimming or paddling on crystal-clear lakes.

Explore beautiful and historic Kingston on Lake Ontario. Dig deep into Ottawa’s heart as well as its many natural attributes, which include either strolling alongside, riding a bike or taking a boat tour on the magnificent and UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rideau Canal. This historic and incredibly scenic canal links the Ottawa River and Lake Ontario with many of its locks still operated by the original hand-cranks. Go white water rafting on the Ottawa River and go wild in Algonquin Park with its postcard-pretty scenery and diverse wildlife. Be in awe of the sublime beauty of Muskoka.

One of the hand-picked accommodations is Elmhirst’s Resort near Keene, which goes the extra mile for the environment, being platinum certified by GreenStep Sustainable Tourism. Go kayaking or canoeing, cycling or hiking, in this fifth-generation family owned and operated resort that prides itself on its locally sourced farm-to-table cuisine.

A sweet taste of Authentic Eastern Canada by Rail

This 10-day itinerary is one of discovery blending the thrill of known sights with cultural visits, a taste of France in Montreal and experiences you might not have been aware of. Known as Canada’s historic heartland, it is also one for lovers of all things sweet, as it is the land of maple trees, and the home of maple syrup. Departing from Toronto, you’ll have time to explore its many charms, from its culinary gems to the Toronto Islands, Little Canada, and the Distillery Historic District. A day exploring the Niagara Peninsula will shine, showcasing not just the magnificent Falls, that you can admire on a Hornblower Cruise or Journey Behind the Falls (season dependent), but also experiencing the stunning Niagara Parkway which weaves its way along the Niagara Gorge, taking in the Floral Clock, Queenston Heights and the historic town of Niagara on the Lake, voted “Canada’s Prettiest Town”.

Ride VIA Rail from Toronto to Ottawa, where you’ll spend an afternoon cruising down the Rideau Canal on a 100 per cent electric passenger boat, watching Ottawans at play along this spectacular waterway. Continue by train to Montreal, taking in forests of maple, fjords and rivers along the way. Montréal is the largest city in Canada’s Québec province, and sits on an island in the Saint Lawrence River. Get ready for a feast, from poutine to Arctic Char, and learn how maple syrup is collected and made before having a tasting. After dark, make sure your phone is charged before you watch the immersive and luminous light show at the Notre-Dame Basilica.

Via Rail will take you from Montreal to Quebec City, the oldest walled city in North America – around 400 years old. Most of the original architecture and buildings have been lovingly preserved, with its elegance and beauty absolutely stunning. Stroll through Old Quebec to learn about its history, from its and location to its people. A highlight of the itinerary will be Onhwa’ Lumina, an enchanting night walk that celebrates and educates about the Huron-Wendat Nation and their way of life. The 1.2-kilometre pathway lights up in an immersive multimedia experience bridging the founding myth to a vision of a bright and promising future. Stepping inside the Great Circle under a star-lit sky, will be an emotional experience, enriching your journey through ancestral rhythm and song.

A fitting end to your journey in Canada, that will leave you uplifted, informed and inspired. And that is the Adventure World way.

Unlock the world with Adventure World – Your passport to extraordinary adventures!

This article is brought to you by Adventure World.

The post Ontario: A world of colour appeared first on Australian Geographic.

There’s a softness in the ocean this morning as we step from our mothership, the Heritage Adventurer, onto Zodiacs, the rugged inflatable craft used for explorations here along the remote Kimberley coastal region of Western Australia. Encircled by craggy, rust-coloured cliffs, this vast ancient land holds many secrets of the world’s creation story, while presenting an impressive canvas of rugged ranges, mighty rivers, phenomenal reefs, giant whirlpools and remarkable wildlife. It can also pack an adventurous punch. We had no inkling that things were about to get a bit more lively on our peaceful morning outing along the broad Hunter River.

Dusky pink dappled light creates faultless reflections of the riverbank as we seek to spot crocodiles, dolphins, mudskippers and myriad other species that call this juxtaposition of environments their home. So many organisms live together here – mangroves, seagrass and other marine plants, animals, algae, and corals and crocodiles – and are recorded in the region’s greatest numbers.

It doesn’t take long for us to find our first adolescent crocodile, roughly 1.5m in length, with only the interconnected dorsal plates of his back and the vertical, sail-like scutes of his tail visible. But as quickly as we see him, he’s gone with nary a ripple.

Surrounded by mangroves, Steve Bradley, our Zodiac pilot, turns off the engine to savour the stillness of the river and listen for the calls of kingfishers flitting through nearby low-hanging branches. Unbeknown to us, beneath the surface a well-planned ambush is about to be executed.

Without warning, a flying, would-be ‘assassin’ mars the peace. Steve is struck in the chest by an unknown critter, causing a minor commotion. Amid amused passengers, a bit of banging and a yell or two, he pats himself down, obviously unhurt but possibly thinking he’s been hit by a flying croc.

“Can you imagine?” says Steve, recalling the encounter later over a well-earned beer. “We had just observed this young crocodile disappear, and then out of nowhere I’m blindsided by a flying missile. What would you have thought?”

As the calm reappears on the Zodiac, we realise a panic-stricken barramundi is flapping at our feet. The huge fish has successfully launched itself into the craft, away from the jaws of a hungry crocodile.

My 10-day voyage from Broome to Darwin with Heritage Expeditions, a New Zealand family-owned company, is packed with unpredictable stories, just as we learn each wall rock, cliff, cave, and river has its own unique tale to share. Heritage Adventurer carries just 140 passengers and sails around this timeless land, an area of 423,517km2, taking passengers to places that are largely unreachable via terra firma and are recognised as some of the world’s last undamaged coastal habitat.

Our itinerary provides a daily assault on the senses that begin the moment we pull away from Broome dock, heading towards a blood-red horizon. We are accompanied by humpback whales diving and splashing beside us, silhouetted by the sunset. A direct route across the top of the Kimberley is approximately 800km by sea, but there’s actually 12,800km of detailed coastline to explore if you follow the nooks, crannies, bays and inlets.

Life here is dictated by the tides. A giant tidal range of up to 12m means that if you get your calculations wrong, even by half an hour, you can find yourself high and dry on a mud bank, or marooned on a reef with a six-hour wait to be refloated. We witness the power and might of this on our first day in Talbot Bay, where a natural phenomenon of tidal water rushes through two narrow rock gaps in the McLarty Range, forming a horizontal waterfall (known as Garaangaddim to the Dambimangari people), within the Lalang-garram/Horizontal Falls Marine Park. Huge whirlpools, up-currents and rapids power through the gaps at a rate of 10–15 knots, reversing as the tide changes, and providing an exhilarating look into the turbulent flows that are most evident during the two spring – or king-tide periods of each lunar month.

In the past, this was marketed as a thrilling boat adventure, but due to a series of accidents and the Dambimangari Traditional Owners’ request to not negotiate the falls by boat when the tide is rushing (they believe the tide rushing is the Woongudd – the creator snake), visitors are now encouraged to witness this event without the rush of the ride.

Our Zodiac continues up nearby Cyclone Creek for a deeper look at the astounding rock wall formations of the area, displaying a history of the earth’s movements, hundreds of millions of years ago, when the main horizontal formation of the Kimberley Basin folded into mountains and valleys.

Day after day there are new things to see and experience. At Widgingarra Butt Butt (Freshwater Cove), the local Arraluli people perform a welcome ceremony and walk us upwards through the spinifex to an overhanging cave filled with rock art – stories left by their ancestors.

“This is like a library,” says Leon, a local Worrorra youth, with a huge gleaming white smile. “These caves are like your computer. This is a learning site, that’s why we’re allowed here. Each painting has a deep story connected to it. Like these two nightjars painted here. This is the story of our skin groups, our blood groups, this is how we know who to marry. It’s a story of our kinship.

“Later on, when we finish here, we will walk you through a smoking ceremony. This ensures you leave any bad spirits here and keeps you safe as you travel. We use this for all kinds of stuff,” he adds.

There is much to learn about this, the oldest continuing culture in the world. There is no written history. This living culture has been passed down with song-line, dance, stories and art. We visit several other rock-art sites as we journey through the Kimberley, witnessing different styles of art, including Wandjina paintings and remarkable walls of Gwion Gwion rock art, said to date back anywhere from 5000 to 60,000 years.

From the art, we move to reef. There’s an air of excitement around Montgomery Reef, as our arrival is timed to a dropping tide. Over the next couple of hours, before our eyes, we watch as the world’s largest inshore reef system emerges from the ocean.

The scene begins mildly, with water draining from the top of the reef. Birds fly in, alerted and sensing it’s tucker time. As the tide continues to drop and this ancient terrestrial tableland becomes more exposed, water gushes and cascades off the reef edge, forming a line of waterfalls off the sides. The high-velocity tidal flow forms a rich bowl of nutrients at the base of the reef, attracting all sorts of feeding wildlife. Below our Zodiac, huge, plump, batfish hang in the current, a shark feeds in the shallows, and turtles’ heads pop up all around. Landing in front of me, a stark-white eastern reef egret plucks a tiny fish from the rapids, the afternoon backlight accentuating every detail of its feathers.

One of our guides makes a radio call. “Guys, I have a sea snake here. Actually, he’s following us. Staring at us. Should I be worried? Joking!”

It’s a reef system like no other, described by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”, formed some 1.8 billion years ago, and recognised as one of the most significant geological marine environments in the Kimberley.

Then there are the birds. Our itinerary takes us 630km north of Broome to the rarely visited Ashmore Reef Marine Park, in the Australian External Territory of Ashmore and Cartier Islands. The park has the largest emergent oceanic reef in the north-eastern Indian Ocean, surrounded by vegetated islands. Long before we arrive at our mooring, the skies begin to fill with passing terns, boobies and frigates. These islands teem with 100,000 breeding birds each year and provide a stop-off point for many migratory species.

Most of this area is a sanctuary zone, so we have strict guidance laws for access. Our Zodiacs aren’t permitted to land, but at high tide we can cruise relatively close to the islands. Flocks of noddy terns, sooty crested terns, brown boobies and frigatebirds rest on the vegetation and shoreline. There have been 179 bird species recorded here; above us, the sky is thick with wings. Hovering over my head, a brown booby just an arm’s length away eyeballs me. With no fear of humans, another lands on a guide’s head and proceeds to sit there for 10 minutes, just taking a rest.

Deemed far enough away from the mainland not to encounter a crocodile, we also get to snorkel here. In the past, Ashmore Reef sustained a period of heavy illegal fishing activities, but with Australian Border Force now near-permanently stationed here, it’s heartening to see a huge diversity of colourful corals showcased through the window of my mask. Fish life is returning, and it’s an absolute privilege to visit such a pristine and abundant outpost – one of the many benefits of travelling by boat.

Returning to the Kimberley coastline, we rise before the sun to catch the tides, venturing into crystal-clear bays and bathing beneath waterfalls. I learn about mangroves (and they grow on me) – these intricately interesting and hugely important little forests where mudskippers and fiddler crabs hang out are not muddy, smelly, mosquito-infested swamps. Mudskippers are my new favourite thing; I make our Zodiac pause for longer than I should while we watch fights over territory and potential mates, the males intermittently sucking their huge, bulbous eyes right back into their heads and rolling over in puddles to keep themselves moist.

If you are a history buff, it’s here in buckets. At Vansittart Bay on the Anjo Peninsula, we walk across a mudflat to a World War II C-53 aircraft crash site, and at Careening Bay we learn about Lieutenant Phillip Parker King, the first man to accurately chart the Kimberley coast. We wander through aged cabbage-tree palms and admire ancient, fecund-looking boab trees, caressed by the soft sea breezes.

We are escorted up the King George River by 80m-high sandstone cliffs, to be met by twin waterfalls, tumbling from the plateau above. In the estuaries, we spot snubfin and humpback dolphins, even a manta ray. And, of course, we are always on the lookout for a flying croc.

In fact, at Jar Island we rounded a mangrove-clad corner, towards the jaws of the biggest crocodile I have ever seen. It was sunning itself on the bank, mouth open and pointed teeth twinkling like a Colgate commercial on steroids. By popular poll, we decide there is no way that crocodile will ever fit in our boat, so we politely turn and leave. We didn’t ask if he was fishing.

Cruising onboard Heritage Adventurer is akin to a mythical quest, and the Kimberley region is a dreamy insight into what feels like the pulsing heart of the beginning of time. I feel small, but intrinsically connected to this big, bold, beautiful land. At the end of my journey, it is fitting to listen to a video where a local extends an invitation, “We all have the ability to connect with Country. It’s whether we allow ourselves to do this.
“I offer you to sit on Country and share your story.”

The article is sponsored by Heritage Expeditions.

The post Connecting with Country appeared first on Australian Geographic.

As well as this made-for-it landscape, the adventure infrastructure on the South Island is top-notch. NZ’s Great Walks track network (six of the 10 Great Walks are on the South Island) is world-renowned for its “ease of use” when it comes to getting over there and walking. And while both islands of NZ are also famous for their respective mountain biking scenes, the South Island is, literally, crisscrossed with both MTB trail networks and cycle touring opportunities. In fact, 13 of NZ’s 23 Great Rides are located on the South Island. Add in the fjords and rivers for paddling and – of course – the mighty Southern Alps for mountaineering and ice climbing, and you could spend nearly a lifetime in pursuit of outdoor perfection ‘down south’.

Feet first: Walking in the South Island

For keen multi-day hikers, the South Island is pure gold. With six of NZ’s Great Walks dotted around the island, from the northern coast’s Abel Tasman Coastal Walk and the nearby Heaphy Track (an AGA favourite) to Fiordland’s Kepler and Milford tracks, plus Mt Aspiring NP’s Routeburn Track in the south and the ‘new’ Paparoa Track in the west, you can pick and choose your desired experience in terms of which landscape you wish to walk through. In addition to these Great Walks, there are plenty of other backcountry hikes.

The set-up of the Great Walks is, really, the envy of the rest of the world; book your hut tickets and transport online via the NZ Department of Conservation (DOC) website’s Great Walks portal, then all you need to do is pack your gear and food, sort your flights, and you’ll soon be walking through an alpine or coastal wonderland. As mentioned, it is this ease of use when it comes to organising a multi-day walk that is the icing on the cake of what is a guaranteed epic experience. A heads-up, though, and reflecting their popularity, experiences such as the Milford and Routeburn tracks – along with the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk – are incredibly popular. To avoid disappointment, make sure you’re on the DOC booking site first thing on 1 July (when bookings open) to secure your desired dates. There are also guided options on the Milford and Routeburn tracks if you’re keen to explore that option.

Of course, there are far more than just the Great Walks. The proliferation of DOC backcountry huts throughout the South Island means you can opt for a more remote experience. Some of our favourite non-Great Walk multi-day walks include the four- to five-day Rees-Dart Circuit in Mt Aspiring National Park (NP), the Greenstone-Caples Circuit, and the remote (and mighty) eight- to 10-day Dusky Track, in Fiordland NP. These tracks are less popular than the Great Walks tracks as they are more rugged – and the huts are not as large, with no stoves (bring your own) – but the extra effort is worth it for those who are keen on more challenging, less crowded, routes. Transport to and from the more popular tracks’ end/start points is also easily organised via operators (these, as well as all DOC hut ticket pricing, can be found on the DOC website), which makes planning easy.

There are so many great tracks to choose from on the South Island that it’s near-impossible to name a stand-out. But, if we could only go with one, it’d be the three-day Routeburn Track. The neighbouring Milford Track gets a lot of attention, but the Routeburn is the perfect microcosm of the South Island hiking experience. Terrain ranges from wild rivers and deep alpine lakes to lush green rainforest and open alpine clearings with epic snow-capped mountain views. The DOC huts along this walk are fantastic, with one nestled beside a huge waterfall (Routeburn Falls Hut). Throw in some majestic alpine lakes (Lake Mackenzie Hut is located right beside its namesake), a fantastic side trip to Key Summit with its alpine tarns and Southern Alps views, and you have a crackerjack three days of walking in the wild. A bit further north you will find a big, challenging week in the wild, in the form of the eight-day Gillespie-Rabbit Pass Traverse.

For an enthralling, but more chilled walk, there is the Queen Charlotte Track, in the Marlborough Sound region at the top of the South Island (see more below). Here, you can either walk the 73.5km from the northward start point of Ship Cove to Anakiwa, before making your way back to the harbour town of Picton, admiring the waters of the Marlborough Sounds along the way, or you can ride it on a mountain bike. You can also kayak part of it/all of it, if you so wish. Accommodation along the track is in lodges and you can have your luggage transported between each lodge (via boat), so you just walk with a day-pack. Yep, the experience is amazing.

Pedal power

From crackers downhill runs and winding cross-country trails to famous cycle touring routes that range from one day to multiple – as well as heli-bike trails – the South Island packs in plenty for two-wheeled adventurers. Mountain bikers are confronted with (excuse the pun) a mountain of options; Queenstown has its brilliant bike park right in town, complete with DH track and pump track. Nearby Wanaka is surrounded by trails of varying grades that can be ridden – or, as per Queenstown, accessed via helicopter – for epic days out on the bike, before returning to your accommodation in town for the obligatory post-ride beverages (this writer is a massive fan of Speight’s Old Dark Ale. Just sayin’…) and planning of the next day’s riding adventure. A fantastic intermediate-level ride just outside Queenstown is Skippers Canyon, while Wanaka’s Sticky Forest offers sublime singletrack, and Bike Glendhu MTB Park (at Glendhu Bay, just out of Wanaka) is also a great way to spend time on two wheels. Cycling families can enjoy the Hawea River Track, connecting Wanaka to the nearby township of Lake Hawea, as it is both fun and scenic.

Further afield, on the South Island’s West Coast, around an hour from the town of Westport, is a true MTB big-bopper: the two- to three-day Old Ghost Road, touted as “NZ’s longest singletrack”. This 85km challenge (one of NZ’s 23 certified Great Rides) takes riders from deep in Buller Gorge through subalpine terrain all the way up above the tree line, staying in backcountry huts each night. Not too far from the Old Ghost Road is the Paparoa Track, the 10^th Great Walk that is also a bike ride. The 56km two- to three-day ride takes you over the high range of the same name, with epic views (and great riding) along the way.

Two other multi-day MTB adventures, further north, are the Heaphy Track (seasonal access: 1 May-30 Nov) in Kahurangi NP, staying at DOC huts (or campsites), and parts of the beautiful Queen Charlotte Track (QCT), with only the first QCT section from Meretoto/Ship Cove to Camp Bay being closed in the peak summer season (1 December–28 February; for the rest of the year, water transport can be arranged to drop off at Camp Bay to start). This awesome adventure starts from Picton on the South Island’s northern coast, where you catch a ferry form Picton Harbour to the start of the track before riding back along the QCT to town. The Heaphy is a three-day adventure, while the QCT can be ridden in two to three days (or longer). Accommodation on the QCT is in lodges overlooking the Marlborough Sounds each night or in campsites. And yes, it is fantastic.

Of course, no story on cycling adventures on the South Island could be written without mentioning that most famous of NZ cycle trails: the easy-graded Otago Central Rail Trail (OCRT). Touted as NZ’s “original” cycle trail, the OCRT offers a brilliant tour of majestic Central Otago for riders of all ages and skill levels. Travelling through a landscape that alternates between mountainous terrain, to river gorges and high-country sheep stations, it is a true bucket-list cycle tour. The Full-Monty three- to five-day version (roughly 150km) connects the towns of Clyde and Middlemarch (you can ride in either direction) and you will pass through 20 towns along the way, so can either camp or stay in more luxurious digs. The gentle gradient and wide gravel trail ensure there’s plenty of time to look at the scenery as you roll past and, if you want, you can even buy a Rail Trail Passport as proof of this achievement. Nearby is another Central Otago must-ride: the one-day Lake Dunstan Trail.

Another South Island big-bopper ride is the easy-intermediate Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. This six-day, 312km epic takes riders from Mt Cook National Park (with its awesome views of that famous peak) across eight sections of trail that meander through forests, grasslands, beside rivers and lakes and (finally) beaches near the east coast town of Oamaru. The trail surface ranges from gravel to bitumen roads; for those with less time you can also drop in and out along the different sections for day rides.

Going high: Climbing in the South Island

The rugged Southern Alps stretch some 500km – nearly the entire length of the South Island – and the area is highly regarded by the global mountaineering community as a top-notch and challenging climbing destination. For Australian mountaineers, the South Island’s many peaks and the routes up them offer sublime climbing during summer (mainly) or, if you are an ice climber, you’ll be over there in the winter, chasing frozen waterfall routes. For ice climbing fanatics, winter in the Southern Alps is gold. Whether you opt to do an ice climbing course, or a guided trip, there are great locations dotted around Queenstown and Wanaka.

NZ’s highest peak – Mt Cook – is ‘just’ 3724m, but the mountains here can be very challenging; even though lacking in total height, the vertical gain – as in the actual distance you climb up – is equivalent to far taller peaks in the Himalayas, as climbing in NZ often starts from near sea-level (the Southern Alps in summer are popular with Northern Hemisphere climbers due to the technical challenges they offer). This makes for big days of climbing, and the weather is also volatile; get stuck on a peak up here and you can be snowed in/stranded for days.

All this shouldn’t take away from the awesome experience of climbing in the South Island’s alpine regions. Mt Cook, Mt Aspiring and Mt Tasman are the most well-known objectives for visiting mountaineers, but there are plenty of other mountains in the Alps that offer similar rewarding climbing, such as Mt Earnslaw and Mt Sefton. Thanks to NZ’s DOC backcountry and alpine hut system, you can base yourself out of a hut, such as Pioneer Hut, on the west coast, and pick off the summits of the many surrounding peaks.

NZ is obviously famous for its mountaineers (yep, Sir Ed Hilary, of course) and it also has fantastic climbing guide companies such as Adventure Consultants, Aspiring Guides (both based in Wanaka) and Alpine Guides (based out of the Mt Cook area). Each offer guided climbs of famous peaks such as Aspiring and Cook, and fully guided ‘Summit Weeks’ in the mountains where you are based out of a hut and can climb (or tweak your technique) over seven days up in the Alps. AG Adventure has been fortunate enough to tackle a few peaks with these companies over the years and cannot recommend them all highly enough. If we had to suggest any one peak, we’d opt for Mt Aspiring, located in the national park of the same name, and known as the southern hemisphere’s ‘Matterhorn’ owing to its similar profile to that of the famous European peak.

For those just looking to get started in alpine adventures, the South Island has some great high-altitude trekking routes. Ball Pass and Jubilee Pass are two, with the Jubilee Pass offering a crossing of the Southern Alps (it replaced the infamous Copland Pass as the preferred route).

Another option for families is a day trekking on Fox and/or Franz Josef Glacier. Guided trips run most days over summer and having the opportunity to explore these amazing features is awesome – the kids will love it.

Water, water, everywhere

Mention the South Island and most people think of the hiking, climbing and biking opportunities, but the island is also a popular paddling destination. For sea kayakers, the northern coastline is the draw, with a multi-day Abel Tasman coast paddle Kaiteriteri and Golden Bay’s Tata Beach. This trip follows (roughly) the Abel Tasman Coastal Walk route; there’s plenty of camping available at beaches along the way (or you can book into a DOC hut), it offers the chance to paddle alongside always-curious New Zealand fur seals.

The Queen Charlotte Track is known as a hike or bike route that winds through the Marlborough Sounds region on the north/northeast coast of the South Island. You can also kayak here, with options ranging from single-day guided paddles through to multi-day adventures (guided or independent) where you can spend the night in a variety of accommodation options and even have your gear transported there each day via boat, so you only have to pack your day’s equipment in your kayak.

Venture further south to the Fiordland region (note: Kiwis spell ‘fjord’ as ‘fiord’) and you have the choice of canoeing, rafting, or kayaking some of this region’s white-water, including the Landsborough River, or you can once again jump in a sea kayak and explore the ‘big four’ waterways – lakes Manapouri and Te Anau, and Doubtful and Milford sounds – either as day trips or multi-day adventures. Lake Manapouri is often described as NZ’s most beautiful lake, and with more than 30 islands, plenty of quiet bays to explore and brilliant beach camping, it’s a great multi-day kayak trip for keen independent paddlers.

Milford and Doubtful sounds offer fantastic kayaking. For families and those with less time, a day paddle on Milford Sound is memorable, albeit a bit busy in terms of additional boating traffic, but you can still escape the crowds and score random seal and penguin encounters. For a genuine wilderness paddling experience, however, we’d opt for Doubtful Sound. This fjord is far more remote, there is no commercial boating there and you can opt for a multi-day paddle with camping that will make you feel like you’re the last person on earth. The best option for both fjords is a guided trip, with all equipment supplied and experienced guides on hand.

With all that snowmelt from the Southern Alps feeding numerous waterways, white-water rafting fans are not left out on the South Island. Famous day rafting trips, such as those down the Kawarau and Shotover rivers near Queenstown, or the Rangitata River just outside Christchurch, provide a huge adrenalin rush. For more experienced white-water kayakers, there are several more remote rivers to explore and enjoy on day- or multi-day paddles, while canoeing families can cruise in inflatable canoes (dubbed ‘funyaks’) down the pristine Dart River.

And there’s more…

If we had 100 pages, it would not be enough to cover all the adventure opportunities on NZ’s South Island. As well as what we’ve listed, there is obviously the island’s epic ski season in winter, with some of the best ski fields in the world found here.

There is also plenty of brilliant camping to be had; just pitch a tent or, if you have a young family, hire a campervan, and explore the South Island for a fantastic and memorable experience. The campgrounds and caravan parks in NZ are very well set up to cater for vehicle-based visitors, with most of them having games rooms/playgrounds and usually located in pristine spots. Most of the natural attractions are very easy to access and there are numerous day walks, lookouts, swimming locations, farm stays and short bike trails (several Great Rides are geared toward family cycling) spread throughout the island to keep both the parents and their young’uns enthralled.

It is the South Island’s fantastic – and brilliantly effective – tourism infrastructure that just adds that cliché of “icing on the cake” to any visit there. And this is the concluding reason – on top of all the other awesome ones in this yarn – for why my next family adventure will be a road-trip through this outdoor wonderland: there’s an adventure waiting for all ages on the South Island – you just need to get over there and it will find you.

Fact File

Getting there: Air New Zealand and Qantas fly to NZ, with Christchurch and Queenstown the two main destinations.

When to go: You can visit the South Island all year with summer and winter especially popular. We’d highly recommend autumn and spring; fewer visitors and still-fine weather make these two seasons the best-kept secret for those looking for a fun (and less crowded) adventure in NZ.

Walking: The Department of Conservation is a treasure-trove of info on all walks through the South Island.

Cycling: The Great Rides of New Zealand is a collection of 23 cycling routes, ranging from challenging MTB trails to road touring options, and there are 13 of these on the South Island. Mountain biking is massive in NZ, with guided and independent options available.

Climbing: For keen mountaineers, the Southern Alps is alpine heaven. For climbing courses and guided climbs, Adventure Consultants, Aspiring Guides and Alpine Guides are all excellent.

Paddling: Whether it is sea kayaking, canoeing, SUP or white-water rafting, the South Island has a waterway for any paddling skill level.

Guided adventures: World Expeditions offers guided walking, climbing and cycling adventures in the South Island.

More info: See Tourism New Zealand for more info on all things South Island.

The post Adventure Isle: A guide to the best of New Zealand’s South Island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Departures & Fares

One-time Partner Voyage: 5 October 2024, from $9200pp twin share

Highlights

• Signature event: Experience a signature six-course winemakers dinner at historic Leeuwin Estate, featuring the iconic Art Series wines expertly paired with regionally inspired cuisine. 
• Enjoy an invigorating swim in the pristine waters of Hamelin Bay, surrounded by curious stingrays and
  other marine species.
• Learn about Indigenous coastal culture and traditions of the region and share stories while we forage for native foods on ancestral lands.
• Walk among native wildflowers in bloom around the coastal landscapes from Dunsborough to Esperance.
• Spend a morning whalewatching at Flinders Bay, renowned for its frequent whale sightings and explore the sheltered haven of Point Ann in search of southern right whales and their calves.
• Stroll silica-white sands in the company of native kangaroos at Lucky Bay – voted #1 beach in the world.
• Wander the community-led art trail of Ravensthorpe and hear how collective community engagement changed the face of this historic goldfield town.
• Gain valuable insights from onboard guest lecturers, Micheline and Curt Jenner, who will share their scientific and conservation knowledge of whale research in WA. 

Your Expert Guide

Karen McGhee has been a science and environment writer and editor for more than 20 years.

With a background in the natural sciences, she has worked on books, magazines, documentaries and museum exhibitions for Australian and overseas audiences, and is presently the Editor of Australian Geographic magazine.

For more information head to Coral Expeditions or call 1800 079 545.

The post Travel With Us: Whales and Trails of WA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Departures & Fares

Partner Voyage: 18 January 2025, from $7920pp twin share

Other departures: 18 January 2024

Highlights

• Spend two full days exploring Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour. Kayaking, birdwatching, and hiking reveal the secrets of this stunning wilderness.
• Explore the beautiful Freycinet National Park. Stroll the sweeping white sand of Wineglass Bay and hike to the lookout for a spectacular view.
• Visit Maria Island – the “Noah’s Ark” of Tasmania – and spot wombats, wallabies, endemic birds, and other wildlife.
• Enjoy a tour at World Heritage-listed Port Arthur to gain deep insight into Tasmania’s convict history.
• From the sea, have a breathtaking view of the dolerite columns of the Tasman Peninsula, the highest sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere.
• Taste Tasmania’s remarkable fresh produce, cool-climate wines, and artisanal spirits throughout your expedition and at special wine-tastings and events.

Your Expert Guide

Tasmanian botanist Danah Leary grew up with prehistoric rainforests and majestic dolerite mountains as her home. She drew early inspiration from the fieldwork of her parents. Later, it would be extensive overseas travel that fuelled her passion for places of cultural and natural significance.

Danah studied fine arts at the University of Tasmania before qualifying as a horticulturist and completing her studies in conservation. From a young age Danah created botanical drawings, deriving endless inspiration from the endemic alpine plants, fungi and fish she saw along the way. Her passion for botany grew with each trip she guided on the Overland Track. She holds a special interest in alpine flora and the symbiotic relationships that have developed over many years.

For more information head to Coral Expeditions or call 1800 079 545.

The post Travel With Us: Coastal Treks of Tasmania appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Departures & Fares

Partner Voyage: 23 April 2024 (Makassar to Darwin) from $14,120pp twin share

Other departures: 20 March 2024 (Darwin to Makassar) and 9 January 2025 (Makassar to Darwin)

Highlights

• Special event: Meet the people of Torajaland, high up in the mountains of Sulawesi, and encounter their astonishing cultural traditions and funeral rituals.

• Explore 17th-century Fort Rotterdam in Makassar, which now houses museums and cultural wonders.

• Meet the beachside boatbuilders of Tana Beru and admire the skillful construction of Phinisi ships.

• Explore the turquoise waters and tiny islands of Takabonerate Marine Park.

• Walk in the tracks of endangered komodo dragons and spot this iconic monitor lizard in the wild with local guides.

• Meet the Abui people of Alor Island and watch their traditional lego-lego dance in their village.

• Gaze out over the tricoloured crater lakes of Kelimutu National Park. 

• On Padar Island, hike to the summit to enjoy breathtaking panoramic views.

Your Expert Guide

Liz Ginis has been a writer and editor for more than 20 years.

She has worked on books, magazines, documentaries, websites and social media platforms for Australian and overseas audiences.

She is the former Director of Content for Australian Geographic.

For more information head to Coral Expeditions or call 1800 079 545.

The post Travel With Us: In the Wake of the Makassans appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Established on a green site in the 1910s – with an essentially circular design with four street precincts radiating out from the town centre – its orderly layout, Art Deco buildings, tree-lined streets, 102ha of public recreation reserves and surrounding orchards and rice fields have been central to its appeal as a service town for an agriculturally-rich area.

Construction of the irrigation scheme began in 1906, and when the water started flowing in 1912, it transformed the barren plains of the Riverina into a fertile oasis. It is now the richest tract of agricultural land in Australia.

Location:

Leeton is 556km west of
Sydney via the Hume and
Burley Griffin highways.
It’s 152m above sea level.

Origin of Name:

Leeton was named after the
prominent MIA supporter
Charles Lee who was the New
South Wales Minister for
Public Works when the
irrigation scheme
opened.

Visitor Information :

Leeton Visitors
Information Centre

10 Yanco Avenue Leeton NSW 2705

02 6953 6481

Useful Websites:

visitleeton.com.au

https://www.visitnsw.com/destinations/country-nsw/riverina/leeton

Places of interest

1. Leeton’s Art Deco architecture

Leeton has 21 buildings listed in the Art Deco Society of NSW register. Most of the buildings are on Kurrajong and Pine avenues. With Art Deco, the functional aspects of buildings are made aesthetic and beautiful in a rather extravagant way by various forms of decoration. Typically, facades are rendered, parapets are elaborately sculptured, awnings are suspended, ceilings are ornate, and shop doorways are recessed with curved display windows and leaded lights.

2. Roxy Theatre

The Art Deco centrepiece of the town, the theatre opened in 1930. Proprietor George Conson employed specialist theatre architects Kaberry and Chard to build the 1091-seat theatre. It was named Roxy after the Roxy in New York, the largest picture theatre in the world at the time. In 1933 the red neon sign was lit and later that year a stage was added. Today it is one of the few remaining rural Australian movie palaces and the town’s finest example of Art Deco architecture. It is particularly impressive at night. Movies are shown on Friday and Saturday nights.

3. Hydro Hotel, now Hydro Motor Inn

The impressive Hydro Hotel (1919) was originally built to house executives of the Water Conservation and Irrigation Commission who were supervising the construction of the MIA. At the time it was liquor-free, although alcohol could be purchased with meals. In 1924 the building was sold to Daniel McLeish, who built a bar and started selling alcohol. Today the bar features murals by local artist Lee Blacker Noble.

4. Henry Lawson’s house

Henry Lawson was sent to Leeton in 1915 by a group of influential friends in Sydney in the hope that he would dry out because he was a hopeless alcoholic by this time. He was to be paid two guineas a week and given a house in return for writing articles and poems publicising the MIA. He lived at Leeton from January 1916 to September 1917, publishing a number of articles, which were not always favourable.

5. Chelmsford Place and the water towers

Chelmsford Place radiates out of the centre of Leeton to the north. There is a band rotunda and a beautiful tree plantation. Next to the rotunda are three water towers (1912, 1937 and 1974) decorated with Art Deco motifs. Walter Burley Griffin wanted this to be the cultural and entertainment centre of the town and he saw the two smaller water towers as “a high portal to the new town square”. He envisioned a plaza with a fountain and ornamental pools.

History

Before European colonisation the area around Leeton and Griffith had been Wiradjuri country for more than 20,000 years.

The first European to pass through the area was the explorer John Oxley in 1817 followed by Charles Sturt in 1838. Neither saw much potential in the land here.

By 1839 there was open warfare between settlers and the local Wiradjuri. Massacres and
atrocities occurred.

The railway arrived in Yanco in 1882 and a township, 6km south of present-day Leeton, began to develop around the station.

In 1900 Irish-born pastoralist Samuel McCaughey developed a successful irrigation system at North Yanco Station.

The government began the construction of the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area in 1906.

The first blocks of land for farming were made available in 1912. Italian migrants were drawn to the area by the similarity with areas of Italy.

Leeton was gazetted in 1913. The Letona (soft
fruits) Cannery (pictured, right) was opened in 1914.

Leeton became a prohibition town in 1914.

From 1919 many returned servicemen settled on the new farms.

In 1922 the railway reached Leeton.

The rice industry was founded in 1924 and the first rice mill opened in 1951.

---

Image credit: courtesy National Library of Australia

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to Leeton, NSW appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The Oxford Dictionary says the definition of adventure is ‘an unusual and exciting or daring experience’. Greenland is all of that and more.

An autonomous part of Denmark, Greenland (Kalaallit Nunaat) is vast. Unbounded. Monumental. It is also empty, when it comes to humans, but crowded with wildlife. The figures speak for themselves. Greenland spreads out over 2,166,000 square km and has a population of just 56,171. Nature definitely rules in Greenland and for the curious traveller, wanting to see more, do more, and go beyond the norm, staring at the rugged wilderness will fill you with a sense of wonder and awe.

The world’s largest island, two thirds of Greenland sits above the Arctic Circle and the best way to explore its many breathtakingly beautiful landscapes is with Quark Expeditions. Experience definitely pays in The Arctic, and Quark Expeditions have been leaders in Greenland since 2000. It is this superior knowledge on how to make the most of a Greenland adventure that will make your journey even more exciting and memorable.

Greenland the great

For the traveller with a hunger for adventure far from the madding crowd, Greenland is gloriously away from it all. From its majestic landscapes that showcase mother nature at her most creative (glistening fjords, colossal shimmering ice sheets, soldier-straight cliffs, and the dancing Northern Lights), to the fascinating culture and communities that have been living in this harsh and sometimes inhospitable place, Greenland pulls on the heartstrings with its raw, overwhelming beauty.

Imagine standing in a world of white seeing the Greenland Ice Sheet up close. It is the second-largest ice mass on the planet and will leave you totally enchanted and wondering if your eyes are playing tricks on you with its sheer size and ethereal light. Then there are the other icy wonders. The towering blue-hued icebergs that are sculptured masterpieces with light refracting as if created by a mad scientist just for your enjoyment, the alpine glaciers that slice through the peaks up high and fjords like Scoresby Sund, which is the largest in the world at around 110 km long at a depth of 1,450 metres in some places. Scoresby Sund is home to polar bears, seals, narwhals, muskoxen – Greenland has 40 per cent of the world’s muskoxen – clouds of geese and seabirds, and was where the ancient Thule people, ancestors of the Inuit, lived until around 1800.

Getting up close to these unbridled, untamed landscapes of Greenland and The Arctic is part of the Quark Expeditions DNA. The expedition team, the most experienced in the business, team up with local partners so guests can witness 2,000-metre-high rock faces, sheer-walled fjords, and rock formations that are more art than landscape. They put you in the landscape, rather than just looking at it from afar. For instance, in Ella Oya (Ella Island) in Northeast Greenland National Park, go for a hike with a local company and marvel at the drama of the sheer cliffs dwarfing everything around them. Go kayaking (which was invented in Greenland) paddling or Zodiac cruising in idyllic places like Equip Sermia or Torsukatak Fjords in Disko Bay, or visit the community of Illulissat, where you can go hiking in an outlet fjord for Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier) – a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Greenland locals are the epitome of people who love the great outdoors and they totally embrace this ruggedness. It is a perfect combination, as Quark’s expedition guides are the elitist of the elite, trained at the highly-respected Quark Academy. You will not find a better way of experiencing this enigmatic, rugged country.

Greenland is not all rock and ice, however. A Quark Expeditions voyage in Greenland will open you up to the people, the culture and their history on beautifully-curated itineraries. In a single Greenland voyage, visitors can meander around Viking historical sites and Norse ruins that turn the clock back centuries. Kujataa historical site is one such location, home to ruins and artifacts that showcase the remains of Norse and Inuit farms on the edge of the ice cap. See the remains of Inuit farmhouses as well as archeological sites from ancient Norse settlements.

Uummannaq is a tiny island in North Greenland and is home to around 1,200 Inuit, and is one of the few places where the Inuit still follow a traditional hunting and fishing lifestyle.

You will also see what the locals are like in the modern-day, through cultural festivals, visits to communities and tasting local cuisine. Visit places like Ittoqqortoormiit – the most isolated town in Greenland. Located close to Greenland National Park, Ittoqqortoormiit was founded in 1925 and meeting the locals and seeing how they live in this most remote of places, is fascinating. You can even go dogsledding to soak up the pristine environment.

Looking up is par for the course in Greenland, with many people attracted by the Northern Lights that shimmer and shapeshift in the sky in an ethereal light show of greens and purples and reds and pinks. Not to be outdone, the beauty of light on icebergs, in sunrises and sunsets, shadow and sun, is completely, utterly mesmerising.

The Quark Expeditions choice

Choosing Quark Expeditions for your Greenland adventure is the smart choice. It means you will be travelling with the best team, renowned for their expertise garnered over three decades in the polar regions. It also means you can benefit from more Greenland departures than any other operator. The time spent in this part of the world has allowed Quark Expeditions to foster long-standing relationships with local Greenlandic Inuit partners. This deep-seated trust means Quark Expeditions guests can experience one-of-a-kind itineraries that are exclusive to the company.

Exploring on the game-changing ship, Ultramarine, allows guests to witness the fjords and landscapes of wild Greenland in ways that no other operators can. This modern wonder has two twin-engine helicopters that open up a plethora of experiences such as flightseeing, kayaking, mountain biking and even camping, as well as an authentic Inuit dining experience.

Ultramarine is the newest ship in the fleet and is designed to venture beyond the norm in polar exploration. It can go places others cannot, immersing guests in the delights of this wild, remote part of the world. Ultramarine can carry 199 guests who are supported by 140 crew. She is 120 metres long and with the striking yellow ‘Q’ on her sides, stands out from the crowd. Scenery and wildlife viewing is easy from the wraparound deck on deck five, and when the time comes to get off the ship to go adventuring, which is often and sometimes spontaneous, guests can quickly change into expedition gear in the ready room, then the internal Zodiac hangar can get guests off quickly and safely in 20 Zodiacs. It takes half the time it would on other ships.

Zodiac cruising in Ilulissat, Greenland; guests and guides onboard; a guest admiring the unforgettable scenery of Greenland. Image credits: Sam Edmunds

Creature comforts are front and centre on Ultramarine. She boasts the Tundra Spa, Tundra Sauna and fully equipped fitness centre, enabling guests to work out should they wish to, or equally, be pampered after a day in the elements.

Relax with a drink in the Panorama Bar and Lounge, dine indoors or out in Bistro 487, or choose an intimate dinner in Balena Restaurant with tables seating from two to 10.

Rethink your bucket list, ignite your sense of adventure, and start planning your Greenland voyage with Quark Expeditions… the leader in polar adventures.

quarkexpeditions.com

This article is brought to you by Quark Expeditions.

The post Greenland – a world of adventure appeared first on Australian Geographic.

I jumped at the chance to take a four-day trip with World Expeditions, not because I had heard of Flinders Island, it was more because I hadn’t and that intrigued me. So as my research began, I realised I was in for an adventure, a touch of physical exertion and some quality time with my thoughts.

Welcome to Castle Rock

In the early 1930s the first passenger flights left Western Junction in Launceston to King Island and Flinders Island. Now, 90 years later, getting to Flinders Island has not changed all that much. Our single propeller plane is expertly packed and soon six adults feel like children again as our diminutive plane starts bouncing down a green field before quickly becoming airborne and heading north. Checking my phone, it’s apparent I no longer have any phone or internet reception. I put my phone away, knowing whatever happens outside this bubble will have to wait until my return. Landing on Flinders Island we waste little time, heading towards our first adventure, a 3km walk towards Castle Rock. This opening walk on Flinders Island could not be more relaxing. Labelled as a ‘multiple beach walk’, we soak up coastal views and make our way across, firstly, Allports Beach, before continuing north along the coast toward Marshal Beach.

In the build-up to this trip, I googled images of Flinders Island, mainly because I had no idea what to expect from this part of the world. Instantly my computer screen was filled with various images of Castle Rock, but nothing can prepare you for the sheer size and impact of this unmissable landmark. At the opposite end of Marshal Beach, a three-storey high granite boulder feels like it could easily roll into the sea. Up close, this huge standing stone is nestled amongst other lichen-covered granite, a texture I’ve been experiencing all day. To finish the day’s adventure, we spent time exploring and being shown interesting and unexplainable geological rock formations found in the area. 

Too soon for me, we leave the mesmerising rocks and are back in the minibus heading to our little hidden island camp. The camp is home to seven individual clear roof pods, communal area, showers and drop toilets. The whole camp, based in Tanner’s Bay, is beautifully designed with consideration for the island and its natural surroundings. Large enough so you can break away from the group for downtime, with a private beach and bay to explore.

A vertical connection

It’s difficult not to feel a connection to the land when climbing Mt Killiecrankie. At 315m high it’s a steady continuous ascent, not overly steep but with plenty of rock shelves for us to stop and look back on the morning’s progress. Climbing to its summit certainly feels hands on, with plenty of granite to grapple, navigate and work around. Mid-climb we shed our daypacks and hand-carry, so we can squeeze through a small natural granite tunnel placed in our path – making us work somewhat harder for the rewards found at the top. A standout feature of the climb is the large walking areas of granite, often populated with huge boulders. Each varies in shape, creating natural shelters you can sit inside or crawl through. Mt Killiecrankie summit is large enough so we can all sit and rest; with perfect weather it is easy to soak up the faultless image of Killiecrankie’s long sandy bay leading to its tiny township. At the mountain’s trig, the island and Bass Strait unfold around me as far as I can see – to North Palana, then further on to Inner Sister and, finally, Outer Sister Island. To my southeast is what looks like an untouched green lumpy carpet covering Flinders Island. Taking in the views its apparent there are few buildings and homesteads to see, and it comes to no surprise to me that the island’s population is below 1000 people.

With the afternoon still ahead of us, we begin to make our way down the mountain, heading towards the coast. At times huge granite rock formations break the path, and it’s not obvious where I’m heading. I follow our guide Nigel, and on closer inspection see he’s following an indicator line of three pebbles stacked on top of each other leading us back onto the trail. For the rest of the day, I keep seeing these pebble guides and it’s a beautiful reminder of the lack of infrastructure on the island, also speaking to World Expedition’s commitment to Big Adventures, Small Footprints.

Down and off the mountain, it’s a short walk to Stackys Bight Beach, and so far on this trip the only other people I have seen are in my group. We share our lucky feeling that we have this little corner of paradise all to ourselves. Stackys Beach could be on a Mediterranean Coast postcard; crystal-clear water parks up on soft yellow sand that’s pocketed by matching colour granite. I must admit, at the beginning of the day when ‘going for a swim’ was mentioned I was undecided; sometimes it just feels like too much effort when out hiking. These thoughts instantly faded when faced with a deserted beach boasting natural rock arches and calm waters.

Today’s walk has been marked as one of the longer walks on the trip at just over 10km, and the rest of the afternoon is spent following the coastline towards ‘The Dock’. It is a walk that sums up the island for me perfectly; rock-hopping over granite covered in orange lichen, but also broken up by picture perfect sandy bays, with the gently rolling blue sea to my left and on my right shoulder the large grey Mt Killiecrankie that we explored that morning.  

There and back again

There’s an excited, slightly nervous, silence that’s fallen over the inside of the minibus as we leave camp. Today’s destination and return hike to the top of the Strzelecki Peaks has been championed as a definite highlight on this four-day trip. Last night, like every previous evening, our three World Expedition guides briefed us on what to expect from Strzelecki. The hike takes us to the highest point on Flinders, topping out at 756m. From the summit we’d have uninterrupted 360-degree views of not only Flinders Island (the largest in the Furneaux group), but several of surrounding smaller islands, including Cape Barron to the south. Thankfully, we’re told the weather is looking perfect, but are still reminded to always be prepared: “Make sure you bring plenty clothing layers, lunch, and at least two and a half litres of water.”

Related: Best foot forward: A guide to hiking

Travelling south, I begin to question where my adrenaline is coming from, and I realise throwing elevation into any hike gently pushes me outside my comfort zone. As a Grade 4 walk, I know this won’t be easy, but we’ve all been reassured that we are all more than capable to make it to the top and out again. I check my day pack worried I’ve forgotten something, I tell myself everything is in place and to stop fiddling with my camera, for fear of losing the battery and being unable to capture what’s ahead. Looking out on the moving green landscape, I play the game I’ve been enjoying with my fellow adventurers over the last few days: ‘wombat or rock’. The round stubby rock ahead sprouts four short legs and darts off with surprising speed. This time, a definite wombat.

At its base, I stop to admire Strzelecki’s huge granite peaks, which are cut out against a perfect blue sky. The crisp morning has us all quickly moving forward and heading on to the trail. Now just trusting the well-worn path laid out in front of me, a thick woodland makes sure I soon lose sight of today’s high destination. As expected, there’s a lot of physical vertical steps to navigate, and throughout the morning’s climb we are all guided within our comfort levels. Taking our time and happy to regroup when needed, everyone accepting the welcome breaks to refuel and look out on surrounding peaks and blue sea punctured by tiny Furneaux Islands. The climbing effort stretches our little party of eight, slowly making our way up the mountain, at one point passing through Strzelecki’s unique micro cloud rainforests, before finding our way onto the granite saddle just shy of the summit. After a short break we all attempt the final push. As each of us successfully reaches the highest point on the Flinders, it is smiles all round. I know on any other day we could easily have restricted views from this summit, standing in or above cloud cover. But I’m surrounded by the glorious greens of Flinders and a beautiful blue horizon as far as I can see. It is difficult to imagine before the last glaciation melting, 12,000 years ago, you could have walked from this spot to Victoria. Looking south past Cape Barron Island towards Tasmania, the sea certainly looks more translucent our guide points out the average water depth from here to mainland Tasmania is only 60m, and if you look closely enough you can see darker features under the water from the original land before the Furneaux Islands were created.

It’s decided to take the hike down and off Strzelecki at our own comfortable pace; a few of us move on ahead retracing the same route down the mountain. The descent is not overly technical, but at the bottom my legs have certainly felt every part of this mountain route. The feeling of achievement completing this hike is huge. I know today has been a once in a lifetime experience. Speaking with Shelby and Stacks who’ve guided today, we note it’s taken us approximately six hours to complete the distance of just under 6kms. Sure, we took our time and stopped off for lunch, but it’s still an indication of what it takes to complete the climb. I ask the question regarding the demographic of visitors taking on this peak. Stacks tells me it’s always a mix of fitness, last week someone in their 70s confidently got up there and back with no problem at all. The guides want to make sure everyone gets to enjoy this experience, and to prepare people they always go up Mt Killiecrankie first.

Don’t forget your trousers

Our final morning involves packing and getting ourselves together as we say goodbye to our oasis by the sea. It’s not long before we are heading southbound to enjoy the last walk on this trip.

Trousers Point is a short 2km walk that hugs the coastline found on the south of the island, a stone’s throw from Strzelecki National Park. I take my time on this coastal path, the rich blue Bass Strait makes it easy to sit and stop, looking out at multiple islands constantly changing the horizon. And then looking inland to see the towering Strzelecki Peaks that we all conquered the previous day. We make our way to Trousers Point Beach; the guides have saved the best till last on this walk. This deserted bay, with its overhanging trees, perfect sand, dotted with coastal heath and crystal blue waters, is an idyllic spot to end our trip.

On leaving Flinders it’s difficult to describe the positive impact this short trip has had on me; never being to the Furneaux Islands before I had no idea what to expect. Three of Tasmania’s 60 short walks are found on Flinders (Strzelecki, Castle Rock, and Trousers Point), with each having their own degree of challenges and unforgettable breathtaking moments. All the walks over the four days have been expertly guided and supported, feeling safe and sure underfoot. Heading into the trip I knew I would be sharing this experience with other like-minded adventure hungry individuals, but I think none of us anticipated the exceptional exploration and the friendships that Flinders Island gave us. The experience that is still being talked about between us to this day.

See World Expeditions for more info on this and other Australian trekking adventures.

The post Rock of Ages: Walking adventures on Tassie’s Flinders Island appeared first on Australian Geographic.

One historian has written enthusiastically about the settlement: “The quaint beauty of its setting, the old-world model of its architecture, the number, the size, the real magnificence of some of its buildings, excite wonder and admiration. Nowhere else in Australia is there a place like New Norcia, and he who is fortunate enough to spend even a few hours within its hospitable walls will find interest quickened to the liveliest appreciation.”

It is easy to enjoy the settlement’s atmosphere of peacefulness and tranquillity.

Location:

New Norcia is 130km north-east of Perth via the Great Northern Highway.

Origin of Name:

When Benedictine monks established a mission on the banks of the Moore River, WA, they named it New Norcia after Norcia in Italy,
the birthplace of the order’s founder, St Benedict.

Visitor Information :

Find the New Norcia Visitor Centre, Museum, Art Gallery and Gift Shop on the
Great Northern Highway or
call 08 9654 8056.
Open most days:
9.30am–4.30pm.
Visit newnorcia.wa.edu.au

Useful Websites:

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Places of interest

1. Heritage trails

One of the best ways to gain an overview of New Norcia is to follow its two short heritage trails, which, combined, take about three hours. Guided tours of the town allow you to see the stunning interior murals
in many of the buildings firsthand. On select Saturdays it’s possible to visit the Monastery Parlour, enjoy some New Norcia hospitality and meet a Benedictine monk.

2. St Gertrude’s College

Built in 1908 as a convent college for girls and administered by the Josephite Sisters, St Gertrude’s is a fine example of Gothic revival architecture. In 1974 it merged with St Ildephonsus’ to become coeducational but was closed in 1992. As a college it appealed both to students from surrounding wheatbelt towns and from overseas. Today it can accommodate 200 people and is used for workshops, retreats, conferences and school camps.

3. Museum and Art Gallery

Showing what daily life involved for the monks, the museum includes medical, agricultural and Aboriginal artefact displays. The art gallery has collections of European and Australian religious art and botanical drawings by Charles Gardiner. A shop sells New Norcia produce including olive oil, ale, wine, liquers, bread, biscotti and Dom Salvado Pan Chocolatti.

4. Abbey Church

Abbey Church is a wonderful example of bush architecture combining stones, mud plaster, rough-hewn trees and wooden shingles. Originally built in 1861 in typically Georgian style, the abbey was given a Mediterranean feel by Abbot Torres’ additions in 1908. One of its paintings, Our Lady of Good Counsel, was the subject of a miracle in 1847. As a bushfire bore down on New Norcia, Dom Salvado pointed the artwork at the fire, after which the wind direction changed and the abbey was spared.

5. Salvado statue

The statue of Dom Rosendo Salvado was presented to New Norcia by the Spanish government in the 1960s. Salvado was the founding father of New Norcia. He arrived in 1846, was forced back to Rome in 1849 and then returned in 1853 (with three priests and 37 artisans) to then remain at the monastery until 1900.

6. St Ildephonsus’ College

As imposing as St Gertrude’s, St Ildephonsus’ was designed by Abbot Torres, and its style is Byzantine influenced.
It was opened in 1913 by Governor Strickland and originally staffed by the Marist Brothers. The statue in front of the building is of Blessed Marcellin Champagnat who founded the Marist Brothers in France. The Benedictines took over teaching at the college in 1965

History

Before the arrival of Europeans, the area was home to the Yued Aboriginal people.

In February 1846 Dom Rosendo Salvado (pictured, right) and Dom Joseph Serra – accompanied by French monk Leander Fonteinne, English monk Dom Denis Tootle and an Irish catechist – set out to travel north of Perth. They established a mission for local Aboriginal people beside a spring about 8km north of the present site of New Norcia.

In 1847 the settlement was moved to the banks of the Moore River and named New Norcia.

By 1848 the mission covered more than 1000 acres (404ha) of land and both sheep and cattle were being grazed there.

The mission grew in importance in the 1860s and 1870s as the monks established a series of wells in the area and bred horses and produced silk.

In 1867 it became an abbey and Dom Rosendo Salvado was appointed Abbot.

In 1900 Dom Rosendo Salvado died and
was replaced by Dom Fulgentius Torres,
who was responsible for much of the design and supervision of the new buildings.

St Gertrude’s College was completed
in 1908.

St Ildephonsus’ College was opened in 1913.

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Image credit: courtesy Benedictine Community of New Norcia

Related: A complete guide to Aussie towns

The post A complete guide to New Norcia, WA appeared first on Australian Geographic.

The only way to top your day is with a late-night show of the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights), when the sky dances with swirls of green and purple lights. It’s a pinch-me moment, and just one of the several experiences in Adventure World’s new Authentic Collection of itineraries that puts the planet and people (and their dogs) first.

The great outdoors

For Australians, Vancouver is the gateway to Canada, and the launching point for an adventure through British Columbia. In winter, a highlight experience is travelling aboard VIA Rail’s ‘Canadian train’ to the mountain town of Jasper, Alberta. The overnight journey takes you through snow-laden wilderness, past jagged peaks and icy waterfalls.

This is one of the best ways to reach the famous Rocky Mountains. Here, you can visit a planetarium to learn about Indigenous constellation stories on Adventure World’s new Authentic Canadian Winter Wonderland itinerary. The two-week trip also takes travellers to the popular adventure hub of Banff and Lake Louise, Calgary and then Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. It’s here in Canada’s north that you’ll witness the incredible Aurora Borealis, learn to snowshoe and try your hand at dog sledding.

If you want to mix adventure with authentic wildlife experiences, head to the Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia. From Port Hardy, on the northern tip of Vancouver Island, you can journey into the forest with an Indigenous-owned tourism company to view grizzly bears. It’s a sustainable wildlife experience that also supports First Nations’ communities and includes important cultural stories.

The grizzly viewing is part of Adventure World’s Island Wildlife & Adventure itinerary, which starts with a visit to the new Malahat Skywalk, on the traditional territory of the Malahat Nation. Your island journey will also take you to Tofino where you can enjoy a guided sea kayaking excursion and immerse yourself in old-growth forest. Other highlights include searching for orcas on a whale-watching adventure, and learning about the Homalco First Nation’s culture and traditions.

Urban adventures

The Adventure World Authentic Collection is all about offering travellers customisable trips so they have an unforgettable experience based on their personal desires and wishlists. That’s why you will not only find itineraries that whisk modern-day explorers to remote fishing villages and rugged wilderness areas, but also to more accessible destinations for people who want to have a city sojourn with a touch of nature.

BC’s Coastal Adventure does this expertly, with outdoor experiences interwoven with three British Columbia cities: Vancouver, Whistler and Victoria. Soak in the dramatic mountain views along the Sea to Sky Highway, take part in a fine-dining walking tour of Whistler’s award-winning restaurants, photograph towering volcanic peaks from the window of the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, and ride in a Zodiac while searching for minke whales off Victoria. This is the kind of trip that caters to all types of travellers, with mild to wild experiences. One of the highlights is a flight from Whistler to Victoria with Harbour Air Seaplanes, North America’s first carbon-neutral commercial airline. The view of mountains, islands and waterways is spellbinding.

The Authentic Canadian Rockies itinerary, from Vancouver to Calgary, also offers the best of the city and outdoors, and in style. Whether you’re celebrating a special anniversary or simply want to spoil yourself, this trip promises unforgettable experiences that start aboard the iconic Rocky Mountaineer. Travelling with GoldLeaf Service, the Rocky Mountaineer is one of the world’s best train journeys, picking up passengers in Vancouver and taking them through the Fraser Canyon and the Monashee and Cariboo mountains to Jasper in the Canadian Rockies. Before boarding, however, you will get to travel sustainably through Vancouver, with a walking tour of historic Granville Island Market and a cycling tour through Stanley Park. Once in Jasper, a guided hike to a mountaintop and a special back-country cooking lesson await, before you journey into the stunning national parks around Banff. What makes this itinerary extra special is the fact you will stay at the luxurious Fairmont Resorts along the way.

Heading east, discover some of Ontario’s 250,000 freshwater lakes on the self-guided Ontario’s Heartland road trip. Start your urban adventure in Toronto, visiting places such as the historic St. Lawrence Market, before heading into Canadian ‘cottage country’. There, you can embrace the quintessential Canadian holiday of boating and swimming. Continue your watery adventures in the country’s capital of Ottawa by rafting along Ottawa River and boating along Rideau Canal, a National Historic Site. You’ll be able to learn more about Ontario’s freshwater lakes and rivers in one of the oldest parks in Canada, Algonquin Provincial Park, and enjoy this amazing wildlife haven on some of the interpretive walking trails.

Culinary Canada

Adventure World continues to put people and meaningful cultural experiences at the forefront of its Authentic Collection, with Sip & Savour Canadian Flavours. Taste your way from Vancouver to Edmonton, Alberta, by exploring Victoria’s culinary cuisine, sampling the seasonal produce at Vancouver’s Granville Island Public Market and in the foodie district of Gastown, and having an out-of-this-world cooking lesson on top of a mountain peak in Jasper. Add a barbecue at picturesque Emerald Lake Lodge and a cookout by horseback, and you have one of Western Canada’s finest culinary adventures.

On the opposite side of the country, you can visit the birthplace of Canadian maple syrup and discover other unique delights this corner of the country offers on the Authentic Eastern Canada by Rail itinerary. Let’s start with everyone’s favourite dessert topping though. In Montreal, you will learn how maple syrup is collected, and get the chance to try some of the numerous products the sweet treat is used in.

You will also go on a tour of the city’s underground and watch the intricate Notre-Dame Basilica illuminate in a night-time light show. Another Eastern Canada must-see is Niagara Falls, where you can get up close to the roaring water on a cruise. But this trip isn’t all about iconic experiences. Travellers on this itinerary can also learn about the Huron-Wendat Nation, one of Quebec’s Indigenous nations, while walking a short trail brought to life with light, sound and video projections. It’s just one of the many ways you can enrich your travels and connection to people, place and planet with Adventure World.

Discover extraordinary adventures with Adventure World. We’re travellers like you, offering authentic experiences. Let’s explore together!

Unlock the world with Adventure World – your passport to extraordinary adventures.

This article is brought to you by Adventure World.

The post Authentic Canada, on your terms appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Adventure World has recently taken cultural immersion one step further with a focus on culinary experiences. These all-new itineraries showcase distinctive aspects of local culture through its cuisine. After all, food has long been favoured as the most authentic way to dive deep into the heart of a culture. Want to know what makes people tick? Sit down to a meal laced with friendly conversation if you really want to get to know the locals.

But dining on local cuisine at small restaurants is also an important opportunity to contribute at grassroots level to the local economy. It’s the same deal when shopping at local markets or purchasing produce direct from the farmer where cultural exchanges go well beyond a simple transaction. Ditch the chain-owned mini-market in favour of a village market and you’ll find out what’s in season, what’s being harvested from the land or sea and which snack foods are favoured. You’ll also likely pick up a few words of the local lingo too. This type of community-based tourism exchange improves income equality while also promoting environmental and cultural preservation.

India is a food-lovers feast with Adventure World’s all-new Authentic Golden Triangle experiences feeding into this delicious region. While Delhi, the Taj Mahal and Jaipur all hog the limelight there’s a foodie movement gaining momentum. Take a chef’s tour through Delhi to uncover secrets behind the flavours and aromas or visit a Sikh temple where its community kitchen feeds 10,000 worshippers every day.

Conservation is at the core of Adventure World’s recently launched Authentic Africa Collection itineraries. Travellers have long been lured to the African continent for its thrilling game drives and wildlife viewing opportunities. But now you can also contribute to wildlife conservation while ensuring a positive impact on local communities and the environment.

It’s all about travelling with a purpose, being aware of your environmental footprint, while ultimately helping to give back to local communities.

No matter whether you’re keen to experience some of the world’s great urban or natural marvels, or venture far off the beaten track to view little-seen wildlife, your travels help to conserve culture, create socio-economic opportunities, protect wildlife and conserve culture. Here’s how:

Travel with purpose

Adventure World partners with several conservation organisations. For example, in Asia, Adventure World donates to Animals Asia to help fund their goal to end bear bile farming in Vietnam and conserve the endemic bear population.

On the Authentic Egypt itinerary you’ll engage with an Egyptologist to see Egypt from a local perspective. With the upcoming opening of the exciting new Grand Egypt Museum in Cairo, visitors can expect to gain a unique insight into the region’s history through the preservation of treasured artefacts presented in engaging exhibits. More than 20 years in the making since the Egyptian government launched a competition to house and display more than 100,000 of the world’s greatest artefacts and ancient treasures, the ‘GEM’ as its already affectionately known, is set to make history as one of largest, most modern museums in the world.

On a Handpicked Sri Lanka itinerary delve into 2,000 years of history where the palatial ruins of ancient cities, the impressive Sigiriya Fort and the intriguingly named Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic underpin an ancient culture which remains vibrant and relevant to today’s Sri Lankans. Tour the grounds of lush tea plantations then indulge in seafood feasts which showcase local cuisine and village life in genuine fishing villages where fishing boats line the waterfront and markets are abuzz with the day’s catch.

Help to protect wildlife

Join an Authentic East Africa itinerary through Kenya to support community outreach projects in Nairobi and anti-poaching initiatives through The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. The Trust raises and reintegrates orphaned elephants back into the wild along with actively engaging in conservation, community and education projects.

Authentic Gorillas and Masai Mara itineraries involve a fascinating journey through Rwanda to the Masai Mara and includes a visit to the Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Fund. The centre for gorilla conservation acts as conservation hub for ecological conservation while educating travellers in gorilla tracking and its critical role in their ultimate survival.

Celebrate communities and conserve culture

On the Authentic Golden Triangle India itinerary you could take a tour of the medieval mystical walled city of Jaipur by eco-friendly custom designed e-rickshaws proudly driven by women from the Pink City Rickshaw Co. The not-for-profit organisation developed an initiative that not only addresses pollution levels but, importantly, provides employment opportunities for around 200 women from low economic households.

Asia is a melting pot of diversity and culture where the senses can be overloaded. It helps to travel with local guides who can interpret languages while also informing travellers of what’s important to the local population. Support disadvantaged and at-risk youths in Hanoi while dining on delicious Vietnamese cuisine on an Authentic Vietnam itinerary. Contribute to Cambodia’s Children Trust through Australian chef David Thompson’s restaurant on an Authentic Cambodia itinerary or participate in a Baci ceremony, a time-honoured ritual performed by community elders on an Authentic Luang Prabang itinerary.

This article is brought to you by Adventure World.

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Just a few moments away from the Olympic Village there could well be a helipad-like area where a small electric aircraft will be waiting to rush the athletes to the track in time for the starter’s gun. And it won’t have a pilot.

Four-seater driverless air taxis will take off and land vertically and are the brainchild of the powerful South East Queensland Council of Mayors, which is already negotiating the purchase of the taxis from a US manufacturer. 

By then, the Northern Territory Air Services will be ferrying tourists between Darwin and Uluru using 20 battery-powered, nine-seater charter planes and Sydney Seaplanes passengers will be silently whisked over the shimmering harbour by the nation’s first fully electric fleet.

“We believe there will be a revolution in aviation, and we want to be at the forefront,” Sydney Seaplanes CEO Aaron Shaw declares on the company’s website.

Some 15 years after the first Tesla reached these shores, airlines are finally waking up to the need to usher in a new era of environmentally friendly travel, with biofuels, energy-efficient planes, huge carbon-offsetting projects, electrification and even the tantalising prospect of hydrogen engines.

All the major carriers are spruiking their existing green credentials and making ever more ambitious commitments to strive for eventual carbon neutrality.

But just how much actual progress has been made so far? And can air travel ever become a truly sustainable way to travel, even with all the shiny new innovations?

A billion tonnes of carbon

It’s fair to say airlines haven’t exactly been model corporate citizens when it comes to the fight against climate change, and governments have done precious little to force them to change their behaviour. 

Aviation accounts for 2.5 per cent of global CO₂ emissions (3.8 per cent in Australia) and causes 5 per cent of global warming. The amount of carbon the industry belches out shot up by 75 per cent between 1990 and 2012, and continues to grow. It reached a billion tonnes in 2018. 

Even a return flight between Melbourne and Sydney generates 165kg of carbon per passenger – that’s more than the average person in some countries produces in a year. Between Perth and London, the figure is an extraordinary 5 tonnes, exceeding what an average individual emits in more than half the world’s countries. Or, to put it another way, a return flight for two people between Brisbane and Perth cancels out the benefits to the planet of a household recycling its waste for an entire year.

Flying business class doubles the damage caused. So, given that about 167,000 Australians take a domestic flight every day, on 1400 aeroplanes, it’s easy to see why reducing the industry’s weighty and dirty footprint has become so urgent.

Journeys by air pump out more CO₂ per kilometre than any other form of transport, except perhaps Jeff Bezos’s Blue Origin rocket.

The trouble with offsetting

Passengers wanting to fly in the most environmentally responsible way possible have to navigate their way through a bewildering barrage of misleading claims, questionable practices and some pretty blatant greenwashing.

By far the biggest culprit in this area is carbon offsetting, used by two-thirds of corporations claiming to be targeting net zero.

The way they work is that a company can pledge to cancel out the volume of CO₂ it generates by investing in renewable energy projects or, more commonly, planting trees that will capture and store the noxious pollutants and pump out lots of lovely oxygen. 

But numerous studies have found that most of the schemes used by airlines are unreliable and ineffective, with few checks and balances in place. And promising to plant millions of trees means you don’t actually have to cut emissions at all to reach sustainability targets. 

In fact, it’s estimated that the total amount of land globally that would be suitable for tree planting is only 500 million hectares – much less than all the various tree-planting offset schemes are promising to reforest. Shell’s pledges alone amount to 50 million hectares! 

Meanwhile, all Qantas passengers are offered offsetting from as little as $2 for a Sydney to Melbourne flight, but in 2018 only 1.1 per cent of emissions were offset.

Planting ever more trees and hoping for the best cannot be a long-term solution, according to best-selling author of Will Sustainability Fly?, Walt Palmer, himself a former pilot. “Offsetting instead of emitting less isn’t the way to sustainability,” he says. “Aviation has to get there in real terms, on its own, and there will be a lot of elements to that transition.Aeroplanes built in the short- to medium-term will all burn kerosene for decades, so the most significant breakthrough in the next few years will be policy that makes sustainable fuels financially feasible. Change has to happen fast, but if policy at both the national and international level doesn’t assist, it won’t happen.”

Which flights are most sustainable?

It may be decades before we can jet off for a guilt-free break that doesn’t hurt the planet, but there are still ways for air passengers to make a difference today.

Fly direct: Take-off and landing are both fuel-guzzling stages of any flight, so limit stopovers.

Choose your offsets wisely: Investigate a carbon-offset scheme before you hand over your cash. Those investing in renewable energies are more effective than the ones that just plant trees. There’s more information atgoldstandard.org

Find a low-emissions airline: German climate-protection group Atmosfair publishes indexes of the most fuel-efficient airlines for short- and long-haul flights. In their most recent survey, the best performing carriers included LATAM Airlines, Air France and TUI Airways. Out of the 60 airlines studied, Virgin Australia ranked 18th and Qantas 49th. 
 atmosfair.de/de

Go economy: Business class may be more comfortable, but you’ll feel decidedly uncomfortable when you realise your emissions have doubled.

Avoid night flights: When it’s dark, the contrails that aircraft leave behind them contribute twice as much to global warming. Winter trips are bigger polluters than summer ones.

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Infographic by Mike Rossi

Towards net zero

The Swedish government has pledged all domestic flights will be fossil fuel–free by 2030 and international routes by 2045. The UK aims to do the same by 2050. The plans rely on hydrogen, electrification and a range of biofuels made from vegetable oils, algae and household waste that produce 80 per cent less emissions. Hydrogen is certainly a cleaner fuel, but technical hurdles mean it’s unlikely to be powering commercial jets for several decades. 

Qantas has committed to net zero emissions by 2050 through a combination of sustainable aviation fuels (SAF) and more efficient aircraft. It has also capped future emissions to 2019 levels, a move few other airlines have followed. By the end of the decade, 10 per cent of its fuel will come from sustainable sources and its carbon footprint will have reduced by a quarter. 

As things stand, flights powered by electricity have to be less than 1500km due to the weight of batteries. Sadly, four out of every five flights are longer than that.

Many scientists doubt that hydrogen will ever be viable for long journeys, not least because a large passenger jet would need four times the volume of fuel that planes use today. But aircraft manufacturers are ploughing billions into pioneering research to unlock solutions.

Airbus aims to use hydrogen propulsion to develop the world’s first zero-emission commercial jet by 2035. Boeing has spent more than a decade exploring fuel efficiencies, hybrid commercial airliners and liquid gas technologies. In January 2023, NASA announced it was handing the company $590 million to investigate lighter planes that use a third less fuel.

Rolls-Royce has used battery technology to create an all-electric aircraft, albeit a single seater. It’s now partnering with British low-cost airline EasyJet, and in 2022 claimed to have run the world’s first aircraft hydrogen engine.

Australia’s lack of vision

Sustainable air travel is still a long way off, according to Emma Whittlesea, program manager of the Climate Ready Initiative at Griffiths University in Brisbane.

“Aviation is one of the most challenging sectors to decarbonise,” she says. “And governments have failed to provide strong leadership to reduce emissions. Current efforts in Australia are insufficient; we lack a clear vision, targets and strategic framework. A net zero target is only as good as the policies underpinning it.

“We need a complete transition away from fossil- and carbon-based fuel, which will require a transformation in how the industry operates,” she says. “There’s no single silver bullet solution, but with an injection of urgency, it could happen within the timeframes we need.”

She says biofuels can only be a stop-gap measure because even they burn carbon, and supply is still limited. 

Related: Leave only footprints

The post Can air travel ever really be sustainable? appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Founded by Rodney and Shirley Russ in 1984, Heritage Expeditions are the pioneers in authentic small ship expedition cruising and is still family-owned and operated with Rodney and Shirley’s sons, Aaron and Nathan, taking over in 2018.

The idea for Heritage Expeditions came from two endangered birds. Aaron Russ takes up the story: “Rodney was actively involved in a number of world-first conservation initiatives saving endangered species from extinction including the Chatham Island Black Robin and Kakapo. It was this work in remote wilderness areas with endangered species that informed the ethos of Heritage Expeditions. Instead of locking these incredible places away, why not share them and their stories with like-minded adventurous travellers and create an army of ambassadors for these incredible places, their wilderness and wildlife?”

Aaron Russ has been an integral part of the business from a young age. “My first expedition when I was five years old and I have been regularly sailing on Heritage Expeditions voyages since I was 10, when I would join during school holidays. I began Zodiac driving and guiding on voyages to the Subantarctic Islands and Antarctica towards the end of my time at high school, so I have been an expedition guide for over 25 years now,” he said.

Aaron and Nathan are proud to continue their parents’ legacy with Aaron saying:

“While we have introduced new destinations including Japan, Philippines, Indonesia and the Kimberley our voyages are still based on authentic expedition cruising, exploring wild and remote places most people will never visit and providing incredible wildlife encounters and cultural exchanges. Our voyages are still very much conservation-based adventures which share the natural world and create ambassadors for the special places, wilderness, wildlife and cultures we visit to ensure their ongoing protection.”

Versatile voyages

Being New Zealand’s pioneering and only small ship conservation-based expedition cruise company, Heritage Expeditions explores some of the most unique and remote islands, coasts and shorelines on Earth with intrepid travellers aboard their luxurious, purpose-built 140-guest flagship Heritage Adventurer and 18-guest expedition yacht Heritage Explorer on voyages ranging from 4-29 days.

Each expedition is meticulously planned and led by a team of botanists, ornithologists, naturalists and experts in their field, ensuring guests maximise every opportunity to learn, discover and experience as much as possible, while minimising the impact of their visit.

Going south

Heritage Expeditions is currently the only expedition cruise company sailing into the Ross Sea – the heart of Antarctica – from New Zealand. Russ said: “As its name suggests, our ‘In the Wake of Scott & Shackleton’ voyage follows in the footsteps of these heroic explorers and is the ultimate in bucket list travel. Due to impenetrable pack ice guests can only visit during January and February, sailing through the roaring 40s, furious 50s and screaming 60s crossing the Antarctic Circle and into the silent 70s and the realm of 24-hour daylight.

“Guests travel with our team of expert biologists, geologists and historians as we spend 12 days exploring the Ross Ice Shelf, Zodiac cruise icebergs, visit research stations, observe whales and seals, visit some of Antarctica’s largest penguin colonies, walk on the ice with Emperor Penguins and step inside the preserved historic huts of Scott and Shackleton. This voyage also includes the wildlife havens of New Zealand and Australia’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed Subantarctic Islands which break up our voyage down to and back from the ice.

“Heritage Expeditions’ longstanding relationships with government agencies, conservation programmes and remote tribes and villages ensures guests have access to areas and experiences off limits to other operators. We have a fleet of 14 Zodiacs on Heritage Adventurer and two on Heritage Explorer ensuring each guest is able to join every excursion,” Russ states.

While many expeditioners are familiar with Antarctica, the Subantarctic Islands are lesser known. “Remote, rugged and UNESCO World Heritage listed, New Zealand and Australia’s Subantarctic Islands are internationally-renowned wildlife havens where nesting albatross, sea lion pups, elephant seals, thousands of penguins and supersized alien flowers known as ‘megaherbs’ combine to offer an experience straight out of a David Attenborough documentary,” Russ said.

Take The Snares for example. “This imposing clutch of inhospitable, ancient, fractured granite islands are home to 2.7 million pairs of nesting seabirds, including some 60,000 endemic Snares crested penguins. Here our guests do a Zodiac cruise along the islands’ jagged towering cliffs, complete with New Zealand/Hooker’s sea lion escorts, spotting nesting Buller’s albatross and exploring sea caves alongside New Zealand fur seals.

The Auckland Islands, (way south of the South Island), are the largest of New Zealand’s subantarctic islands with the richest flora, the largest number of subantarctic invertebrates and some of the rarest birds on earth. Russ enthuses: “We see endangered hoiho (yellow-eyed penguins), explore flame-tipped rata forests, observe life and near-death play out at a New Zealand/Hooker’s sea lion breeding colony on Sandy Bay and hike up South West Cape and take in the flurry of avian activity below at the white-capped albatross colony.”

“On Campbell Island, wade waist-deep through fields of flowering megaherbs and visit the Southern Royal albatross colony where nesting couples affectionately groom and rowdy juveniles engaged in the raucous dating game known as ‘gamming’. Over on Australia’s Macquarie Island, the only place in the world where Royal penguins breed, visit this raucous ‘Penguin City’ and Zodiac cruise one of the world’s largest King penguin colonies, nesting along with Southern Elephant seals and weaners (older elephant seal pups).”

Macquarie Island and its surrounding marine park (colloquially known as Macca) are so important, the Australian Government recently tripled the size of the park to a staggering 475,465 sq km.

Citizens of the world

Each Heritage Expeditions voyage contributes to conservation through experiential learning with opportunities to take part in authentic citizen science initiatives and provides funds for research and management. This can range from collecting air-flask samples for GNS Science to further their research into the Southern Ocean’s role as the “world’s largest carbon sink and the impact this is having on the ocean and planet, through to collecting penguin bones, eggshells, and testing ocean samples.

“Being a company founded by biologists and adventurers, citizen science has always played an active role in our voyages and continues to be a part of Heritage Expeditions legacy. We are incredibly privileged to visit the wild and remote places we do and being able to both support the scientific community and give guests the opportunity to actively engage in authentic scientific research is all part of joining a Heritage Expeditions voyage,” Russ concluded.

As genuine ambassadors of conservation, combined with a true pioneering spirit, you are guaranteed the adventure of a lifetime with Heritage Expeditions.

For more information call 1800 143 585 or email info@heritage-expeditions.com

This article is brought to you by Heritage Expeditions.

Explore the world’s best-kept secrets with the pioneers of authentic small ship expedition cruising Heritage Expeditions.

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Quark Expeditions was one of the pioneers in polar exploration, with cofounders Lars Wikander and Mike McDowell taking the first group of commercial travellers to the North Pole in 1991. It was a very big deal… the first tourism transit of the Northeast Passage – and since then the company has steered a course at the forefront of polar exploration. They were first to undertake the first non-scientific visit to Emperor penguin rookeries, and sailed their first circumnavigation of the Arctic in 1999.

In season

Quark Expeditions has launched its new season for its outstanding Arctic expeditions – Arctic 2025 – and will redefine your bucket-list aspirations with remarkable expeditions to Greenland, the Canadian Arctic and Svalbard. All three regions are spectacular and offer different experiences that will inspire and delight.

Guests can choose from four new itineraries in Greenland and Svalbard, along with old favourite itineraries. Whether you’re a seasoned adventurer or a first-time explorer, Quark’s Arctic trips cater to a wide range of interests and comfort levels.

In Greenland, see sights like Prins Christian Sund, with its stunning array of fjords and channels, Northeast Greenland National Park, with exotic wildlife such as musk oxen, polar bears, Arctic fox, and, near the coastal regions, walruses and assorted whales, the tiny island of Uummannaq, where local Inuit still follow a traditional lifestyle, and Tasermiut Fjord, known for its polar bears.

Canada’s High Arctic territory is massive, with myriad mountains, glaciers, tundra, rugged shorelines, towering granite cliffs, and bodies of water. Highlights include the Inuit town of Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut, the remote hamlet of Pond Inlet with its fjords, glaciers, and icebergs near the eastern entrance to the Northwest Passage, and the Inuit hamlet of Pangnirtung, just 50 kilometers south of the Arctic Circle is known for its traditional Inuit hand-woven tapestries and lithographic prints.

In Svalbard, you’ll have a best opportunity at spotting the most iconic of Arctic residents, the polar bear.

Make sure to take a visit to Spitsbergen, the largest island in the Norwegian archipelago. It is known as the ‘land of the midnight sun’ and as the ‘wildlife capital of the Arctic’, and is home to Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost city and the jumping off point for the Norwegian Arctic.

Ultra cool

Quark Expeditions has the largest fleet of polar-class vessels in the industry, each carrying less than 200 passengers, including Ocean Adventurer and the spectacular Ultramarine, the newest ship in the fleet, which has two twin-engine Airbus H145 helicopters that are designed to fly deeper into the Polar Regions than any other helicopters in its class.

These helicopters mean the Quark Expedition Team – the most experienced team in the industry – can take you to places where few humans have ever walked. A mind-blowing thought and an experience that will live long in your memory. Imagine the range of off-ship adventures that are exclusive to Quark Expeditions that you could go on, including alpine heli-trekking, mountain biking, alpine kayaking, heli-landing, heli-hiking, and ice sheet landings. Ultramarine has an internal Zodiac hangar so its 20 vessels can be deployed quickly, allowing for more spontaneous off-ship adventures and more intimate wildlife engagement. After all, Quark Expeditions has the widest array of off-ship activities in the Arctic, such as kayaking and camping.

When you venture into the untouched wilds of the Arctic, you need a great team around you and at Quark Expeditions, the elite guides are trained at the highly respected Quark Academy, which goes above and beyond every standard there is for safety and preparedness in the Polar Regions and interact directly with world-class polar experts.

Quark Expeditions has earned its reputation as a leader in Arctic exploration by offering safe, educational, and environmentally responsible trips to this remote and enchanting region. Whether you’re drawn to the Northern Lights, the abundant wildlife, or the thrill of venturing way off the beaten track, Quark Expeditions has an Arctic adventure that will leave you with lifelong memories.

Additionally, and perhaps most importantly, guests will not only witness the Arctic’s natural wonders but also become a steward of this fragile ecosystem, contributing to its preservation for generations to come.

Book your place on an Arctic 25 itinerary with Quark Expeditions early – by October 31– and receive a US$1,000 Early Booking Bonus.

This article is brought to you by Quark Expeditions.

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There are very few places in Australia that feel as far away, rugged, and ancient as the McIlwraith Range. Covering about 3000sq.km, this part of Cape York Peninsula lies roughly 15km east of Coen and 550km north of Cairns. The landscape here is punctuated by peaks – the highest of which reaches 824m – that form part of the Great Dividing Range. These support rainforests that cascade down escarpments and into valleys where rich river systems flow, separating vast open areas of bushland. The rainforests here are the wettest and most elevated on the Cape, offering refuge to a number of endemic species. They have close ties to the tropical rainforests of New Guinea and represent the southernmost limit for some of the plants and animals found there. Among the best known of these are the spotted cuscus, the green tree python and the palm cockatoo, with its distinctive black plumage, red cheek patches and a shrieking call that cuts through the forest.

I was lucky to be traversing this landscape under the guidance of Traditional Owners Dion Creek and Amos Hobson, brothers from Southern Kaantju and Uutaanlanu countries, and this area can’t be accessed in any other way. It was pitch dark when we arrived at the coast and set up camp, exhausted after a long day of riding. It wasn’t until morning that I could take in the full spectacle of this pristine natural landscape, when the dawn light revealed a sprawling beach lapped by the sparkling turquoise waters of the Coral Sea, and to the north, a wide river mouth teeming with fish. I felt privileged to be there and humbled that Dion and Amos had shared their connection to Country and coast with me throughout the journey. 

“Our Kaantju Country straddles all the high country of the McIlwraith Range. It’s healthy and pristine because it still has our presence; for thousands of generations we have been here, looking after our Country,” Dion explained months earlier, as we sat together perusing maps, planning our expedition. 

Our mission was simple: to see and experience as much of KULLA (McIlwraith Range) National Park (Cape York Peninsula Aboriginal Land) as we could in seven days and to document what we saw. Jointly managed by the KULLA Land Trust and the Queensland government, the park is made up of country belonging to the Kaantju, Umpila, Lama Lama, and Ayapathu peoples – the name KULLA is an acronym for these groups’ names. 

Our plan was to explore the highland areas of the park first, before undertaking a 200km round trip to the coast along the northern foothills of the range. Given the park’s remoteness, the extreme nature of its landscapes, and the rough condition of its tracks, we’d need the ATVs. These lightweight four-wheel-drives can go places most conventional 4WDs simply can’t. But because they’re small, they have limited range and capacity for carrying supplies. Our fuel, water, food, spare tyres, first aid equipment, tools and camping gear would need to be spread out among our team members. The team comprised Leon Kyle – logistics coordinator and mechanic; Darrock McMonnies – lead rider and videographer; and me – expedition leader, drone pilot and photographer. Jameel Kaderbhai also joined us as an additional photographer and drone pilot for part of the expedition. 

After months of preparation, including test riding and scenario planning for potential helicopter evacuation, we finally met up with Dion, Amos and their crew in Coen in August 2022 to set off on our expedition. Their side-by-side vehicles, slightly larger ATVs than ours, were packed with supplies and gear, and the brothers were accompanied by a group of young enthusiastic rangers who were keen to explore and show us the mighty McIlwraith.

Our first forays into the highlands were slow-going. Overgrown tracks, fallen trees and hot conditions limited how far we could venture during daytrips. As we climbed and descended through the undulating terrain, we passed through dry sclerophyll forest and dense rainforest, reaching very few vantage points. This made it difficult to gain a perspective on just how impressive the McIlwraith Range truly is. Dion, who has guided many research teams through the range over the years, explained that the only real way to appreciate the scale and uniqueness of the area is by helicopter. Our drone offered us a means of capturing the occasional bird’s-eye view, and we snatched glimpses when the canopy allowed. 

During our last day in the highlands, we reached a stunningly beautiful rainforest creek. Dion instantly lit a fire in anticipation of the haul of black bream the rangers would catch with their handlines. It didn’t take long before we were all feasting on the delicious fat fish, a wonderful end to the first phase of our expedition. 

After three days in the highlands, we set off for the coast. As the landscape opened up, I felt an instant sense of awe. Under a big blue sky lined with wispy clouds, eucalypts studded the landscape, and flocks of birds flew towards the distant horizon. The landscape, covered in sparse bushland, gave way to patches of lush rainforest vegetation as we dropped into valleys or climbed mountain slopes. Wide sandy riverbeds and deep creek crossings provided challenges aplenty for us with our ATVs as we plotted a course through the foothills. Dion and Amos navigated Country intuitively, without the need for maps or GPS guidance. Aware of even the most minor vegetation changes and geological landmarks, they connected to Country through stories, and weaved a seamless track across hundreds of kilometres. 

“Kaantju people have maintained an unbroken connection to Country for thousands of years and my grandfather handed down the knowledge of how to look after his Kaantju Country,” Dion said. “We believe Country can only be healthy if we, the First Nations Traditional Owners, are on it, visiting the special places at the right time each year and looking after it as best we can. This keeps our culture alive, keeps us healthy and keeps Country alive.”

The landscape was unforgiving and conditions were hot. We had limited access to fresh water – at times, water sources were 30–40km apart, but Dion and Amos were always confident in finding them. The going was tough on both ATVs and riders – there were no smooth sections of track. There were fallen trees aplenty, as well as sticks and spiky vines to avoid. We navigated through muddy entries and exits to water crossings, over steep and loose riverbanks, and across soft sandy beaches. The terrain was uneven, and we encountered countless stinging insects and plants. Despite how well prepared we were, we experienced punctures, engine overheating problems, impaled radiator hoses and instances when bolts rattled themselves loose or were lost completely. Thankfully, Leon was a skilled bush mechanic who kept the ATVs going with minimal tools. 

Dion and Amos stopped regularly to interpret the landscape for us, pointing out medicinal plants and bush food species. They recognised that after years of not being accessed, the grasslands and forest understoreys were very overgrown, and the land was out of balance. Therefore, as we went, they ignited small spot fires to reduce the vegetation. They had been taught these important landscape burning skills by their forebears. Looking behind us, I often saw plumes of grey smoke rising skywards. In a few days time, on our way back, I would get to see the benefits of these fires. 

Our campsite that night was in a wide sandy riverbed at Attack Creek, named for an Aboriginal attack on explorer and state geologist Robert Logan Jack in 1879 as he and his team searched for new goldfields throughout Cape York Peninsula. We were now officially entering the brothers’ grandfather’s Country, Ngaachi Kaantju. Dion conducted a ceremony to let the spirits and ancestors of the land know we were travelling here, that we were friends and not foe, and to ask for protection during our journey. During the ceremony, Dion passed his smell – a smell that was passed to him from his ancestors, through the generations along his lineage – to us by rubbing his hands under his arms and then onto our hair and bodies. In doing so, he signified that we were of him, and welcomed us to his people’s Country. Each one of us underwent this ancient practice in silence under the gaze of the tall rainforest trees that lined the riverbanks. Being welcomed in such an intimate way was truly humbling. 

The river here was merely a trickle, but it was clear from the width of the riverbed and the presence of a big fallen tree near our campsite that would have been deposited by a previous torrent, that this would be a major river during the wet season. The trees were enormous, and the vegetation was completely different from what we’d seen during the day as we traversed vast swathes of sparse arid zone. 

After setting up camp, we headed off with Dion and Amos in the hope of finding a cuscus, palm cockatoo or green tree python, with no luck. We recorded multiple frog calls to submit to the Australian Museum FrogID app and revelled in the beauty of the place. 

As we returned to camp we came across four dingoes in the riverbed. The two smaller ones turned and ran as soon
as we locked eyes, but the two larger ones stood long enough for us to take a picture. As the sun set and we bathed our weary bodies in the warm light of the campfire, a universe of stars began to emerge between the outstretched limbs of the canopy above. A night of storytelling and camaraderie unfolded. 

Attack Creek proved a challenge for our ATVs. Mine developed a potentially serious oil leak and Darrock’s starter motor misbehaved. Leon was able to keep the vehicles going using skill, a few random items we had at hand, and some luck. We were confident enough to continue our push to the coast, so broke camp and hit the track for another full day of riding, with about 60km to cover. 

The landscape pattern from the day before repeated. Large expanses of open bushland were interspersed with low-lying rivers or creeks, and steep rainforest climbs and descents. It all made for adventurous riding, and as we moved closer to the coast, we felt more and more isolated. 

About 20km in, Dion and the rangers bid us farewell to return to business back in Coen. We wouldn’t have made it this far without them. From here on in, it would be just us and Amos. 

Amos’s excitement grew as he reminisced about his last trip to his favourite spot on the beach we were headed to. He told us of a pristine coastline with an endless bounty of huge mud crabs and blacklip rock oysters, where crocodiles as long as mini-vans patrol estuaries teeming with fish. 

We finally hit the soft sands of the beach in darkness after 11 hard hours on the track. We would have to wait until morning to see its full glory. Amos selected a camp away from the water’s edge and lit one last spot fire in the coastal scrub to thin out the undergrowth, scare away snakes and deter curious crocodiles. Exhausted, we clumsily made camp, ate a simple meal, fell into our tents, and drifted off to sleep. 

Dawn revealed a sprawling, deserted, windswept beach that stretched as far as the eye could see in either direction. Amos suggested we fish the river mouth just to the north where, when the tide is at its lowest, you can harvest oysters the size of your hand and spear mud crabs. 

Upstream, both banks of the river were lined with thick mangroves. Amos ventured straight into the knee-deep water, spear and fishing lines in hand, unconcerned by the sight of freshly made crocodile slides along the muddy banks. In no time at all, we caught a barramundi and a mangrove jack, no surprise given we could see so many in the water. Amos lit a fire and cooked the fish atop the embers. They were delicious, probably even more so because of the setting. We were on Country, with a Traditional Owner, eating fish straight off the fire, just as Amos’s ancestors had done in that exact spot for thousands of years. 

Next, Amos pointed his spear to a low rocky outcrop about 100m off the shoreline. “Careful of stonefish,” he warned as we followed him through the ankle-deep water. The outcrop glistened with hundreds of blacklip rock oysters. Using the blunt side of an axe, we shucked them and ate our fill right there.

We felt decadent consuming such fresh and sought-after seafood in this beautiful place, but it didn’t stop there. Amos soon took off into knee-deep water, yelling “mud crabs!” Using his spear, he harpooned three in as many minutes and put them in his bag. Back to the fire we went, and before we knew it, the green mud crabs had turned a glowing red and were ready to eat.

The rest of our day was spent exploring the remote beach. It was about 6km long, with an impassable river mouth at its northern end and a rocky headland at its southern end. Offshore was the far northern section of the Great Barrier Reef, and to the west was the mighty McIlwraith Range. 

Amos knows this beach like the back of his hand. During our time here, we visited several of his favourite fishing spots. He also took us to permanent freshwater springs of great cultural significance, and to some of his grandfather’s old campsites, where he fondly reminisced about being a young boy playing with his brother, Dion. The beach quickly gained a special place in our hearts too, for many reasons but none more than being here with Amos. 

On our last night there, sitting by a crackling fire with bellies full of fresh seafood, we got to experience, for a short while anyway, life in rhythm and harmony with nature – living off, and with, the land. It’s a way of life that First Nations people have always known. It was through the generosity of Amos and Dion, and their willingness to share their Country with us, that we got to enjoy this life-changing, unique immersion in the mighty McIlwraith.

Dean Miller and his team thank Can-Am, Anchorline, Macpac, Pelican, Uniden, Aussie Powersports, Warn Winches, Duncan Powersports, FATMAP, Kimberley2Cape, Tyrepower Cairns, Tackle World Cairns, River Bend Canvas and Urban Wheelz for products and support to make this expedition possible. 

The post The mighty McIlwraith appeared first on Australian Geographic.

In fact, it’s almost impossible to believe such a thriving hotel complex is there at all, because all you can see from above is the vast tangle of trees that stretch from the unspoilt shoreline across to the gentle slopes of Mowbray National Park in the distance.

Thala Beach is one of a growing number of eco-hotels where sustainability is infused into every feature – from the passive and low‑energy cooling systems, property‑to-plate food, onsite wastewater treatment and no single‑use plastics to the revegetation of what used to be a degraded sugar plantation into a biodiverse habitat teeming with wildlife.

“In the early days, ecotourism wasn’t a term you could take to market,” resort director Seton Prettejohn says, “and it was a battle to differentiate ourselves within the luxury sector. But over the last decade, we’ve seen it move into the mainstream consciousness. Guests want less glitz and more green.”

They certainly do. The dramatic surge in demand is driven by customers rather than any new legislation. More than 70 per cent of Australian tourists are looking for more sustainable holidays, and there’s a growing realisation that international air travel is unlikely to become environmentally friendly anytime soon. Indeed, there’s an inherent contradiction in jetting halfway around the world to stay in a carbon‑neutral eco‑lodge.

The term “ecotourism” has been around since the 1960s, but it exploded in popularity at the start of the 21st century as concerns about climate change grew. According to Ecotourism Australia, it can be defined as: “Ecologically sustainable tourism with a primary focus on experiencing natural areas that fosters environmental and cultural understanding, appreciation and conservation.” 

As well as reducing carbon emissions through the use of biofuels and renewable energy, it encompasses: the use of native, locally sourced food; engaging of Indigenous cultures; recruiting from neighbouring communities; not interfering with nature; and the restoration of deforested areas. The sector already employs 14,000 Australians, with annual revenues nudging $2 billion. One Nielsen survey found 2.2 million Aussies were planning an eco-trip, three‑quarters of them under the age of 45.

Last year, the federal government committed to THRIVE 2030, a long‑term COVID-recovery strategy to grow tourism by $64 billion by 2030 in a sustainable, climate‑friendly way. 

Globally, the ecotourism sector grew 6 per cent last year to be worth $300 billion (US$200 billion), and is expected to double in value by the decade’s end. “Sustainability is increasingly a key consideration in travel decision-making,” says Tourism Australia managing director Phillipa Harrison. “It’s no longer [only] a nice ‘to do’ – it’s good business hygiene. There’s a very strong connection between sustainability and cultural travel, with First Nations people arguably the pioneers of sustainability for more than 60,000 years.”

Hundreds of tour operators are now eager to boast about their green credentials, but knowing how honest they’re being isn’t always clear‑cut. So‑called greenwashing involves making deceptive or exaggerated sustainability claims, a practice that’s rife in Australia according to West Australian climate scientist Dr Bill Hare. The UN adviser claims that companies, including airlines, rely too heavily on carbon offsetting to reach emissions targets instead of reducing their fossil-fuel use. The practice muddies the waters when it comes to assessing just how planet-friendly a holiday really is.

“Australia was an early leader in ecotourism, but greenwashing has been an issue ever since the term was first coined,” says Anne Hardy, associate professor in tourism and society at the University of Tasmania. 

Five questions to ask

Here, Anne reveals five questions ethically minded travellers need to ask before embarking on their next trip.

Do you support local communities?

Find out if companies are owned locally or are part of a multinational chain whose profits may be channelled overseas. Ask what they do for their staff and local villages in terms of sponsoring events, donating to charities or buying from local suppliers. Once you’re there, see if the souvenirs in the gift shop are made by Indigenous craftspeople or imported from elsewhere.

How do you treat your staff?

Many hotels commit to employing a sizeable percentage of locals and even provide housing, childcare and healthcare. Are any such policies mentioned on their website? Another good sign is that staff are on permanent contracts rather than hired casually. 

What’s your impact on the environment?

Even a so‑called eco-lodge can emit a large amount of carbon dioxide. So investigate what practices it undertakes to minimise emissions, such as using renewable energy, recycling, serving locally produced in‑season foods and protecting ecosystems.

A principled and committed tour operator will seek to teach its visitors about the importance of conserving nature, respecting Indigenous cultures and avoiding unnecessary intrusion into animal habitats. 

Do you have any certifications?

There are a variety of environmental awards and accreditations, but a sticker displayed in reception isn’t a guarantee of best practice.

The Global Sustainable Tourism Council and Australia’s own ECO Destination Certification – the first of its kind in the world – are both widely respected and show that operators use resources wisely, contribute to communities and conserve their flora and fauna. You can find all the certified operators online in Ecotourism’s Green Travel Guide.  greentravelguide.org

Are you involved in regenerative planning?

Sustainable tourism isn’t just about reducing impact, it’s about giving back more than you take through reforesting land, encouraging native plants and actually capturing more carbon than you release.

Taking small steps

Holidaying more responsibly needn’t involve pitching a tent in a muddy field and cooking plant‑based sausages on a solar-powered portable stove. There are easy ways to make any trip a bit more eco‑friendly.

If you do have to travel by air, instead of trusting the airline’s carbon offsetting scheme, make a donation to one with impeccable credentials (see Can air travel ever really be sustainable? on page 82). Buses and trains are the best option, but hiring an electric car for the trip instead of your gas guzzler is a good first step.

At the hotel, hang a “Do not disturb” sign on your doorknob so it isn’t vacuumed every day and avoid the laundry service because each guest’s clothes are washed separately – even if it’s just half-a-dozen pairs of underpants. Draw the blinds to reduce air conditioning and take the leftover soap and toothpaste home with you. 

“Have conversations with people who live there and get their recommendations for nearby sustainably run businesses,” says Ecotourism Australia CEO Elissa Keenan. “It’s a great way to get a feel for the personality of a region.” 

Getting there more responsibly

Before most of us can take part in ecotourism activities, we need to arrive at our destination – and travelling from A to B makes up a major part of tourism’s carbon footprint.

How do the different transport modes weigh in? (average CO2 emitted per 1km travelled)

Source: Our World in Data, based on 2018 UK transport figures.

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Infographic credit: Mike Rossi

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Next trends in sustainable travel

Elissa is confident that, as momentum towards low-carbon holidays continues to gather pace, Australia’s travel industry will be transformed as never before. And any short‑term pain in coping with the new realities will be more than offset by the enormity of the opportunities.“Ecotourism visitors want to feel good about how they spend their money and know they’re having a positive impact,” Elissa says. “They care about Indigenous communities and increasingly want to interact responsibly with nature rather than just grabbing a quick Instagram selfie.”

However, we’re not yet in a position to pat ourselves on the back. “Australia needs to do a lot more to meet global targets,” Elissa adds. “We have a wonderful destination and are seen as sustainable, but we’re at risk of falling behind our key global competitors.” She’s identified four future trends that she predicts will reshape tourism over the next few years.

Mainstream sustainability

“Tourists want sustainable and responsible options. We need to commit now to really embedding sustainability as a normal part of business, not a ‘nice‑to‑have’,” Elissa says. 

A deeper connection with nature

A key pillar of ecotourism is “leave only footprints” – to observe rather than blunder into nature. And those footprints better be on clearly defined official paths, because it’s easy to destroy delicate ecosystems if they aren’t. “The ultimate is to experience an area with a local guide who can talk about conservation and how to preserve our natural wonders,” Elissa says. 

Cultural immersion

“Embracing stories of the destination from Traditional Owners and hearing about the cultural history is a very strong trend and a powerful driver for travellers,” Elissa says. “We’re also seeing a huge increase in demand for Indigenous tourism experiences.”

Wider accessibility

Ecotourism Australia has campaigned tirelessly to open up remote wilderness areas to tourists and staff of all physical abilities, and the impact has been spectacular. In 2021, 17 per cent of travel groups included someone with a disability or long‑term health condition and together they ploughed $13.5 billion into the industry. 

“Wherever you go, seek to actively give back and leave the place you visit in a better state than when you arrived,” Elissa says. It’ll also contribute to your own health and wellbeing.”

Perhaps when the huge resort hotels of the future are built, they won’t involve 150-tonne diesel earthmovers carving vast scars across pristine rainforests. Maybe at least some will blend seamlessly in with the native flora and be almost invisible to anyone flying over the top in a hydrogen-fuelled plane.

Eco-travel leaders

Sites older than the pyramids

The Budj Bim Cultural Landscape in south-western Victoria is a complex series of weirs and dams engineered more than 6000 years ago by the Gunditjmara people to trap eels. Today, it’s a popular spot for tourists.

“We tell the big story of how we’ve sustained life here for thousands of years: it’s a story of resilience, adaptation, sustainability – and standing up for what’s right,” ranger Braydon Saunders says. “We sustainably managed fish and eels and harvested them at choke points using woven baskets. We were Australia’s first farmers.”

gunditjmirring.com

Eco safaris

Guests staying at the Arkaba Conservancy in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges can join conservationists on safaris to study endangered animals and survey native vegetation. The historic homestead may be an oasis of comfort, but it’s committed to a comprehensive range of sustainable practices, including undertaking an ambitious rewilding program. 

 arkabaconservancy.com

Desert sanctuary

Built on a dune outside Alice Springs as an experiment in sustainable living, the carbon‑neutral Earth Sanctuary has developed into a major attraction, educating its 16,000 annual visitors in ecology, astronomy and Aboriginal culture. 

“It started as a concept, asking the question, ‘What does it take to live sustainably on this planet?’” says founder Tom Falzon, who established the residence with his brothers Ben and Dan, a former Neighbours star. “We created a 40ha sanctuary where people could come and hear how we went about living sustainably – and hopefully be inspired and empowered to change their own lives.

“Tourism is the front line for introducing people to the natural world. Operators have a huge opportunity to play a key role in shaping the future. We must clearly connect the tourism experience to reducing our collective carbon footprint and preserving nature and culture.”

 earth-sanctuary.com.au

Bed, breakfast and car

Mantra Southport Sharks on Queensland’s Gold Coast last year became the first Australian hotel to offer use of a Tesla as one of its amenities, organised through local electric car-share startup Outbound, which plans to roll out the $30-an-hour service to holiday accommodation nationwide.

getoutbound.io

Revealing the wetlands

Jamie van Jones and her husband, Sebastian, were naturalists on expedition ships when COVID hit. But rather than stay cooped up in their Perth home, they decided to start an expedition company of their own, Salt and Bush Eco Tours, to explore the wetlands, creeks and national parks in the Swan Coastal Plain, just 10 minutes drive from the centre of Mandurah in Western Australia. They set up eco-workshops, kids’ nature clubs, and classes on environmental management.

“We spark people’s wonder,” Jamie says. “Then it’s a natural segue to talking about conservation issues. We focus on positive stories, particularly the resilience of the bush, and simple actions we can take to help save it.”

saltandbush.com.au 

Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef

Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef is a beach safari camp in the dunes of Cape Range NP near Exmouth in WA. Each of 15 eco-luxe wilderness tents offers views of the surrounding bush and beach. It’s constructed above ground to protect the flora, fauna and sandhills and uses boardwalks to prevent soil erosion. Almost 100 per cent of the camp’s power is from solar. The site uses gas hot water. The tents or lodge operate without air conditioners, instead leveraging naturally cool coastal breezes. Each tent is allocated 20 litres of water per person, per day and implements a three-minute shower policy.

salsalis.com.au

Adventure World Travel

Responsible travelling is a key mission statement. The company’s objective is to reduce the negative impacts and increase the benefits of tourism by providing authentic, ethical, sustainable experiences that celebrate and conserve heritage and culture, creates socio-economic benefits for communities, protects wildlife and marine life and the natural environment.

It and other brands within The Travel Corporation support the TreadRight Foundation. 

adventureworld.com.au

Related: Leave only footprints

The post Leave only footprints appeared first on Australian Geographic.

British Columbia: On the edge of a wild world

From its vibrant capital to its iconic wildlife and rich Indigenous culture, exploring BC’s west coast and Vancouver Island provides a truly immersive experience.

Victoria: the adventurer’s capital

When it comes to a capital city that is most suited to adventurous travellers, Victoria, on Vancouver Island, is an absolute stand-out. The provincial capital of British Columbia is not only living proof a sustainable city is possible, through its many eco-friendly programs and implementations, it is also the gateway to the adventurous side of Vancouver Island and all of its incredible outdoor, wildlife and culture. Best of all, any Vancouver Island adventure begins in the city itself; myriad cycle paths and trails take two-wheeled visitors on a number of tours through this beautiful city, whether it is to visit some (or all?) of its famous craft breweries (yes, there are craft brewery cycle tours!) or restaurants, to cycle the pristine harbourside, or to venture out into Greater Victoria’s historic and culturally rich neighbourhoods, the city’s cycle routes make it easy. 

Venture slightly out of town and you’ll also experience the amazing Malahat Skywalk (this is located on the lands of the Malahat Nation), an elevated walk that takes visitors through coastal rainforest on its way to a 10-storey-high spiral tower lookout that provides all-encompassing views out across the Pacific to the North American west coast. 

For marine-mammal lovers, Victoria is home to Orca Spirit Adventures, which offers a variety of one-day viewing tours, in the Salish Sea, Victoria’s pristine (and very clean) Inner Harbour, and further around on the west side of the island out of the pretty coastal town of Port Renfrew. Thanks to the mild winters of the west coast, the tours run all year round, with plenty of marine life to see in the cooler months, too.

The wild west

Vancouver Island’s west coast is packed full of adventure opportunities, whether that is sea kayaking off the coast at Tofino, exploring nearby Meares Island and its spectacular old-growth forests, or experiencing Pacific Rim National Park. This park hugs the western side of the island and is also home to the famous West Coast Trail, regarded as one of the world’s best multi-day treks –and one of the most popular; advance reservations are a must (this writer has done this trek and can say it’s worth of all it accolades).

The WCT follows an old route used by shipwreck survivors and their rescuers along ruggedly beautiful coastline and coastal forest. It is simply magic; each night’s campsite is on a beach, providing opportunity to view the island’s iconic wildlife, such as whales, orca, black bears and even cougar (Vancouver Island has the world’s largest concentration of cougar). 

An island road-trip like no other

Along with its plethora of adventure activities and thriving Indigenous culture, British Columbia is rightly famous for its wildlife. From black bear and grizzly bear (and the ultra-rare Kermode – or ‘Spirit’ – bear, found only in certain pockets of the Great Bear Rainforest), its population of resident (and transient) orca, variety of whales species, wolves, otter, cougar and – of course – salmon and the bald eagle (among a rich and varied native birdlife population), this province has it all when it comes to wildlife viewing. 

Vancouver Island offers a number of ways in which to view most of these animals (including black bear, orca, whales, coastal wolves, cougar, otter, and eagles) with a short ferry ride across Johnstone Strait to the Great Bear Rainforest on the west coast of the BC ‘mainland’, covering off the big-bopper grizzly (and the Spirit bear). 

Coastal cruising

Leaving Victoria and heading north along the east coast, it is easy to spend a week stopping off along the way to take in a number of wildlife experiences – and cultural ones, as you travel through a number of First Nations territories. The drive up the island’s east coast is a leisurely one, always with one eye peeled for wildlife. A hub for visitors is Campbell River, a fishing city of more than 35,000 that is also a great basecamp for some exploration of nearby Elk Falls Provincial Park, with its waterfalls and old-growth forest, the excellent maritime museum, the many hiking and bike trails surrounding the city.

For paddlers, there is guided sea kayaking, exploring the Discovery Islands archipelago and canoeing, either on a short day trip in Main Lake Provincial Park, or the hard-core, multi-day, 12-lake Sayward Forest Canoe Route. Another must-visit here is the Quinsam River Salmon Hatchery, which plays a role in ensuring natural spawning runs of this fish stay at the appropriate level. Its interpretive centre also informs visitors of the life cycle – and its importance of – salmon to BC’s entire ecosystem.

If there’s one must-do on any visit to Campbell River, it is joining a Homalco Wildlife and Cultural Tours trip, with options covering wildlife and/or Indigenous culture and history. Whether you want to learn more about the First Nations history of this area, via a visit to the Homalco village site of Aupe (and its shy resident black bear), crossing the Salish Sea and thus also having the chance to spot whales, dolphins and orca. Other tours include a full-day adventure tin August that takes visitors to Bute Inlet’s Orford Bay for the annual salmon run – an incredibly vital part of this region’s ecology – where you’ll see bears chowing down on the fish to fatten themselves up before their winter hibernation. It’s simply brilliant.

The cove of dreams

Telegraph Cove, north of Campbell River and situated on the Johnstone Strait, is a historic fishing village that doubles as the staging point for some of the best whale-watching tours in BC. There are a variety of tour types, all exploring Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago, with the chance to spot some of the orca that frequent the strait, as well as whales, dolphins, otter and sea lions. Kayaking is also popular here, as is fishing. Telegraph Cove’s Whale Interpretive Centre is worth a visit during your stay and the restaurants provide (as you’d expect) the freshest seafood you can imagine.

The land of the bear

Think British Columbia and, invariably, bears will come to mind, and more usually, it’ll be an image of the mighty grizzly bear that pops into your head. Fittingly, then, it is BC where you will find the bears’ spiritual and physical homeland: the Great Bear Rainforest. One of the largest areas of unspoiled temperate rainforest in the world, this 6.4-million-hectare wilderness, stretches from the Discovery Islands in the south of BC, north to the BC-Alaska border. This incredible wilderness is home to a number of BC’s First Nations, as well as all of BC’s native animal icons – black, grizzly and Kermode (Spirit) bears, cougar, wolves, salmon and some ancient (read: over 1000 years old) timber, including western red cedar and spruce trees. So, you might think this is probably a good place to see bears and other wildlife in their native habitat – and you’d be correct…

There are a number of bear-viewing lodges in BC, with some of the most unique being accessible from Vancouver Island, via floatplane out of Campbell River or Port Hardy. The Indigenous-owned Knight Inlet Lodge (accessed via floatplane from Campbell River) is nestled at the end of BC’s longest fiord of the same name, in the southern part of the Great Bear Rainforest. This lodge (along with Great Bear Lodge – more on this lodge below) is unique in the fact it is of a floating construction, and it is an incredible sight from the air as you fly in (usually in one of BC’s aviation icons – a de Havilland Otter floatplane) from Campbell River. 

As well as excellent bear-viewing opportunities (from viewing stands and small skiffs) during the peak autumn season, the lodge offers whale watching, marine tours, kayaking (this writer viewed grizzly bear from a kayak during a four-day stay at the lodge), walking tours and an excellent interpretive tracking tour.

Great Bear Lodge, located further north in the Great Bear Rainforest, on the BC central coast, floats at the head of Smith Inlet, fully immersed in its surrounding marine environment, and moving gracefully with the tides. Accessed from Port Hardy, on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island, via an amazing seaplane flight, Great Bear Lodge is the only one in this valley, making for an exclusive and enriching experience in this wild part of the world. With, literally, no-one else around, it also ensures you’ll see more bear than people – and that has to be a brilliant thing. As part-owner Marg Leehane says, “It’s a luxury to be in a place where we see more bears than people.” And it is…

The viewing platforms at Great Bear Lodge are a mix of covered and open for optimum immersion in the environment while watching the bears chase salmon in the waterways. Boats are also utilised (depending in river heights and salmon locations). As you’d expect, all the meals at the lodge are freshly caught and/or use local produce. 

Inside another world

The recurring theme when describing this part of British Columbia is, without doubt, that of ‘total immersion’. From the in-depth and informative Indigenous-led cultural and wildlife tours, to other outdoor experiences with knowledgeable local guides, to the BC environment itself, visitors to British Columbia have an over-abundance of opportunities to immerse themselves, totally, in one of the world’s most unique regions. 

Falling for Ontario

Embrace vibrant communities, breathtaking wilderness, cultural icons and some of Canada’s best outdoor playgrounds in Ontario’s autumn and winter.

One of the best things about travelling is exploring the roads less travelled, when less people are travelling. With sustainable travel now at the forefront of many travellers’ minds, finding a way to stay away from the madding crowds is front and centre. By going in the less busy seasons of autumn and winter, you are spreading the love and lightening the load for the locals. But one thing that won’t be lessened is Ontario’s striking natural beauty, innovative culinary delights (featuring locally grown foods, thanks to the provinces farmers that results in memorable dining), award-winning wineries, fantastic local artisans, unique traditions, authentic Indigenous experiences, and vibrant multicultural cities.

Ontario might boast spectacular cities such as Ottawa – the capital of Canada – and Toronto, both of which serve up myriad attractions, from museums to historic sights and adventurous pursuits, but it also boasts a plethora of majestic natural landscapes. With more than 250,000 lakes (including pristine Lake Ontario, Lake Huron and Lake Superior), 340 beautiful provincial parks and six national parks, as well as – of course – the world-famous Niagara Falls.

Autumn colours

The change of seasons from summer to autumn (fall) opens up an artist’s palette of colour in the forests of Ontario. Broad swathes of red and orange with a base of verdant green are truly enchanting and a photographer’s delight. After spending time in Toronto, a rich arts, culture and entertainment hub, venture out to discover the city’s little-known islands. 

The 15 Toronto Islands, accessed on a short ferry ride from downtown, are perfect for a stroll to stretch legs after a long-haul flight, or just to get out into the fresh air. Walking around these small islands is easy, as they are all connected by boardwalks – just one example of how the locals (and visitors) love spending time outdoors here.

Under two hours north of Toronto, visit Keene, where you can stay in a private cottage, set in a landscape of tranquil lakes and the forest with its kaleidoscope of colour. You can kayak on the lake to take in nature’s artwork on the banks, or go for a hike among the trees, proudly showing their fall coats.

One of Ontario’s most spectacular landscapes awaits in the 1000 Islands region, home of the Thousand Islands National Park. Go for a cruise to marvel at the lush islands dotting the wide expanse of the St Lawrence River.

Winter wonders

With its crisp temperatures and plethora of outdoor adventures, Ontario is a breath of fresh air. Hiking, biking, ice skating, snowshoeing, dogsledding … the choices are endless.

Easily visited from Toronto, do a full day tour of Niagara Falls. One of Canada’s most popular sights, it’s just as beautiful in winter. Apart from the awe-inspiring views from above, from viewing platforms, or from below in a boat, don’t miss the Journey Behind the Falls tour.  Walk through historic tunnels underground and emerge on the Observation Deck at the base of the 13-story high Horseshoe Falls. You will feel the power of the water, as well as its spray. The charming community of Niagara-on-the-Lake is also worth visiting.

Embrace your inner explorer with a stay in Algonquin Provincial Park. Go snowshoeing near Surprise Lake, or backcountry skiing on trails through snow-laden forest, then relax with a sauna, a good book by the fire, and cocktails. Dog sledding in this pristine environment will be a real treat, and you will even be able to ‘mush’ your own dog team. 

Canada’s capital, Ottawa, also abounds with icy treats. This beautiful city on the Ottawa River, is home to Canada’s government with its three neo-Gothic buildings constructed between 1859 and 1927 standing sentinel on Parliament Hill. There are many wonderful museums, including the National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian Museum of History, with historic ByWard Market, established in 1826, always worth visiting for a beavertail. 

One of Ottawa’s favourite winter activities is to go ice skating on the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rideau Canal, which links the Ottawa River with Lake Ontario down in Kingston. In winter, the last section of the Canal turns in to the world’s longest naturally frozen skating rink – 7.8 kms. Some locals even skate to work.

Whether you go in autumn or winter, Adventure World has itineraries to suit, including the 13-day Fall Colours of Ontario tour, and the six-day Ontario Winter Adventure.

Manitoba: Canada’s outdoor heartland

This central Canada province is not just the home of the polar bear, it packs in plenty of other natural highlights for you to explore. 

Manitoba is situated bang-on the longitudinal centre of Canada and hosts more than 100,000 lakes and waterways, along with more than 90 parks (including two national parks). As well as a variety of landscapes (from vast prairies to subarctic coastline) and one of Canada’s most amazing capital cities – that’d be Winnipeg – the population of 1.2 million includes a vibrant Indigenous culture, sharing the land with incredible wildlife; polar bears, wolves, beluga whales, bison and loads more roam free here. In short, for those after an escape that combines outdoor activities, culture, wildlife and that sense of  vast open space – Manitoba is your answer. 

A capital idea

Spending more than a few days in Winnipeg is a no-brainer: the capital of Manitoba is a thriving centre of around 750,000 people, and contains a mix of cultural and adventurous activities, whether visiting the city’s famous museums and eateries, or exploring some of the surrounding parks. For those with an outdoor bent, we’d suggest The Forks. This area of Winnipeg sits at the junction of the Assiniboine and Red rivers and includes murals (painted by Indigenous artists), restaurants, and you can take to the river on a boat tour. In winter, skate the Winnipeg Foundation Centennial Trail, the world’s longest naturally frozen ice-skating trail.

For cultural enrichment, it’s hard to go past Qaumajuq, a centre that houses the world’s largest collection of contemporary Inuit art (it is found inside the Winnipeg Art Gallery). ‘Qaumajuq’ translates as “it is bright, it is lit” in Inuktitut. For those who cannot make the journey north to polar bear country, the city’s Assiniboine Park Zoo is a must-visit; hosting a number of Arctic species, such as polar bears (of course – and in an expansive enclosure that accurately replicates their natural habitat), wolves, muskox and other species, plus educational and interactive displays, it is fantastic.  

Cheeky locals and the big lights

Summer and early autumn means you can paddle waters of the Churchill River estuary to spot beluga whales (known as the ‘canaries of the sea’ due to their calls). There is an estimated 58,000 beluga that call Hudson Bay home each year, and around 4000 will spend time in the Churchill River estuary. You can kayak, sit aboard a boat or take a SUP out into the estuary to view them. Besides their unique ‘song’ and personality, beluga differ from other whales by not having fused neck vertebrae, allowing them to tilt their head to the side, leading to some cheeky glances at you in your kayak or boat as they glide past.

There’s a third, close to equally famous, natural resident of Manitoba that is a must-see: the Northern Lights, aka Aurora Borealis. The northern icon of Churchill is, again, one of the best places to be for Northern Lights viewing, with the peak season of February and March. You can see the famous dancing lights throughout Manitoba during certain times of the year as well, but with its northerly location, Churchill provides close to 300 nights of Northern Lights viewing. Yep, that’s impressive.

Where life is wild

Think Manitoba and polar bears instantly spring to mind, with good reason; being able to see these mighty bruins up close at Churchill and its surrounds in the far north is one of, if not the, province’s biggest highlights. However, these big boppers are not the only draw-card for wildlife lovers; those curious – okay, and cute – beluga whales are another, and then there’s bison, wolves, innumerable bird species (in autumn, Manitoba sees tens of thousands of migrating Canadian geese), caribou, moose, black bears, seals and Arctic fox, to name just a few, that populate the province’s wild areas.

Churchill, population around 900, is known as the ‘polar bear capital of the world’, due to its location on the shores of Hudson Bay, and the bears’ gathering there as they wait for the bay to freeze over so they can then hunt seals while living on the sea ice. For optimum viewing, the middle of October until mid/late November is best. There are a number of ways in which to view the bears, from one-day adventures in big tundra vehicles, to multi-day stays at wilderness lodges. 

For something truly unique, you can experience a few days aboard a tundra lodge stay. This comprises huge tundra vehicles joined together, with separate cars for sleeping quarters and dining, along with those for viewing. Fly-in wilderness lodges are brilliant, too, and some allow you to join polar bear hikes, where you are down on the bear’s level, with guides (known as ‘bear whisperers’) who ensure you get close, but you don’t impact the bears’ natural behaviour in any way. It’ll definitely answer that ‘call of the wild’!

Yukon Territory: Where the wild things are

 “The Yukon”. Those two words immediately conjure images of a wild, remote land, and this territory is all that and much, much more.

The top of the world 

“The Yukon”doesn’t just promise so much when it comes to adventure, wildlife, a thriving indigenous culture, unique history, and amazing landscapes, but it delivers. Whether it is viewing the province’s amazing wildlife, hiking into a mountain- and glacier-crowded wilderness, learning more about the First Nations culture and the gold-rush era, experiencing the natural phenomenon that is the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis), or staying at a wilderness lodge, the Yukon offers all an adventurous traveller can dream of. And it does that through every season. Here’s how…

To the Far North

The Yukon Territory is vast. At 482,443 square kilometres, it contains an incredibly diverse mix of landscapes, from mountain ranges and glaciers to huge lakes, immense valleys, and a number of wild waterways. The territory is 80 per cent wilderness, which has resulted in an abundance of wildlife, including iconic species such as grizzly bears, wolves, moose, caribou, bald eagles and more.

The sparse population of around 41,800 residents includes 14 First Nations, resulting in a thriving culture, with the capital of Whitehorse worth a few days of exploration (you can discover the territory’s First Nations culture – and more – at the McBride Museum. On account of the Yukon’s wilderness to people ratio, there’s a huge amount of space for amazing experiences, including the chance to get up close to one of nature’s most famous spectacles…

The best light show on the planet

The Yukon Territory is located below what is known as an “auroral oval” (where the aurora displays most strongly). The ‘bowl’ is a band around the earth that has been ‘pushed’ or moved by strong solar winds toward the dark (night) side of our planet. That solar wind disrupts the earth’s magnetosphere enough that particles from both the wind and the plasma of the magnetosphere ionise after precipitating in the upper atmosphere. The result of that ionisation is that brilliant and always varying emission of different light in the night sky. 

There are two seasons of aurora viewing, kicking off with autumn (August-September; Dawson City is a great location for aurora viewing at this time of year), and then the winter season, from October to April. There are plenty of Northern Lights based tours and activities on offer, with the majority based out of Whitehorse, as well as from some wilderness lodges.

A tale of two seasons in the Yukon

Whether you visit the Yukon for the winter viewing season or the autumn, devoting a number of days to enjoying the Northern Lights’ distinctive displays is an absolute must. The best thing – and this applies to either viewing season – is that you don’t have to while away the daylight hours waiting for the lights; there are myriad activities on offer during the day, too. 

From wildlife viewing and ice-fishing, to sled-dog adventures, fat-bike riding, cultural enrichment, and snow-shoeing – not to mention enjoying the warmth of a wilderness lodge’s fireplace – a visit to the Yukon in autumn and winter can (and should!) include more than the aurora.

This mix of slightly longer nights and shorter days of light make autumn/winter ideal for aurora viewing, thanks to the extended period in which the dancing lights can be viewed. It also opens up the days (after a post-aurora nap) to an array of outdoor activities, including the Yukon icon that is dogsledding. It is an absolute must-do; being dragged on a sled across a vast white-clad landscape, by a team of strong and surprisingly fast huskies (and other sled-dog breeds) is a fantastic way of exploring the more remote parts of this spectacular province. It really is an absolute blast. 

A standout of the Yukon Territory – and this is regardless of the season – is its abundant wildlife – even in winter. You may spot the elusive and shy lynx, along with the chance to see wolves, coyote, and a number of bird species. This doesn’t have to mean camping out in the snow to view these species (and others), either. The Yukon Wildlife Preserve, around 30 minutes’ drive from Whitehorse, includes a dozen species and offers a brilliant opportunity to both view and learn more about some of the Yukon’s native fauna. It is open all year round. 

A welcome like no other

The Yukon Territory is renowned for many things (think: wildlife, wilderness, indigenous culture, gold-rush history, adventure), and this includes the Yukon people’s welcoming nature and hospitality, from campgrounds and hotels to its famous wilderness lodges. For visitors keen on having a ‘Yukon basecamp’ where you can enjoy day-time activities, friendly and knowledgeable hosts, meals cooked utilising native produce, plus prime Northern Lights viewing – all from the one pristine location – a lodge stay is perfect.

Southern Lakes Resort, perched on Tagish Lake, is situated within the traditional territory of the Carcross/Tagish First Nation. During autumn and winter, guests enjoy northern lights viewing, a half-day snowshoeing experience, which is a do-not-miss, and snowmobiling. Oh, and best of all: the lodge has a half-day dogsledding  adventure, too, taking you and your team of Alaskan huskies through the Klondike Gold Rush backcountry. 

From coast to canyons onboard Rocky Mountaineer

Riding the rails of Canada’s renowned Rocky Mountaineer is a feast for the senses.

There’s a bear. Out there. Lumbering along at the edge of the trees, barely registering that a train full of excited people is clitter-clattering by, cameras clicking. 

Other times, passengers on Rocky Mountaineer ‘ooh’ and ‘aah’ at the view over majestic, craggy peaks, ethereal forests and tumbling rivers needling down rock-hewn gorges as the train passes over bridges that surely tested the engineering know-how of the track’s builders back in the 1880s.

That first, vital Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) link from coast to coast in Canada led to some of Canada’s best-known luxury hotels being built in locations that are just as awe-inspiring today as they were back then. In fact, the owner of the CPR, William Cornelius Van Horne, selected the location for the legendary Banff Springs Hotel – now the Fairmont Banff Springs – himself, saying “If we can’t export the scenery, we’ll import the tourists.”

He built it, and the tourists did come, and are still coming. Many of them on Rocky Mountaineer.

Climb Onboard Rocky Mountaineer 

One of the best-known tourism ventures in Canada, Rocky Mountaineer set off on its inaugural trip in 1990. It was a two-day, all-daylight journey through Western Canada and the Canadian Rockies, and the rest, is rail history. 

The single route from those early days has blossomed into four routes: three in Western Canada, and one in Southwest United States. ‘First Passage to the West’, runs between Vancouver and Banff with an overnight stop in Kamloops. ‘Journey through the Clouds’ will take you between Vancouver and Jasper – also with an overnight stop in Kamloops, and ‘Rainforest to Gold Rush’ links Vancouver and Jasper, with overnight stops in both Whistler, and Quesnel. 

The newest route is the ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ service, the first in the USA, that runs between Denver in Colorado and Moab in Utah, with an overnight stay in Glenwood Springs. 

While the vistas on the routes are extraordinary, the service and amenities are equally as impressive. In Canada, guests can choose between two different styles of train coaches – GoldLeaf Service or SilverLeaf Service. 

GoldLeaf Service, which was first launched in 1995, continues to be a highlight for Rocky Mountaineer passengers, who love soaking up the spectacular views of the Canadian Rockies through the striking curved-glass windows on the top of the bi-level train car. It is the perfect pairing; views from luxurious seating upstairs, while gourmet dining awaits on the lower level, which also has large glass windows to allow the views in while you dine on delectable meals.

There is an exclusive outdoor viewing platform downstairs in GoldLeaf Service, which is wonderful to breathe in the mountain air and feel the forest-tinged breeze on your face. It is also excellent for photographers.

SilverLeaf Service has panoramic windows, with guests relaxing in their comfortable seats, with gourmet meals and beverages brought right to their seats. 

Gourmet Delight 

When on Rocky Mountaineer, guests are not just seeing Canada, with its wildlife, majestic scenery and idyllic lakes, they are tasting Canada, which has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to produce. Rocky Mountaineer’s Executive Chef, Kaelhub Cudmore, refreshed the culinary program for 2023 and 2024, saying: “On Rocky Mountaineer, you can expect to be fed bright, fresh food that speaks to the journey you’re on.”

Vancouver Island born and raised, Cudmore had a passion for the culinary industry at a young age. He has a deep appreciation for food and travel, developed organically as he worked in various locations offering everything from salmon fishing to remote heli-skiing. 

His resume is impressive, having worked at Victoria’s iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel, spending almost 10 years at Clayoquat Wilderness Resort as it blossomed into the exclusive Relais & Chateaux property it is today, and working as a leader in Seabourn’s Thomas Keller program. The luxury cruise line made quite a splash with Keller’s innovative dining at sea program, and there is no doubt Cudmore learned a lot about preparing and presenting gourmet meals in moving spaces.  

Cudmore says he is an “ingredient-driven chef,” placing high-quality local ingredients at the forefront of his menu, supporting local agriculture and artisans in his kitchen. 

The talented Executive Chef’s aim was to create a connection between food and land, reflecting the landscapes guests see through the glass, and bringing it inside onto their plates. Local products that you might taste on the menu include Alberta beef short rib, Dungeness crab stuffed ravioli, and Lois Lake steelhead as well as verjus from Vancouver Island, handmade pasta from Port Moody, bee pollen from Surrey, and tasty macarons from Vancouver’s Granville Island.

Rocky Mountaineer’s wine list also reflects the Canadian landscape, with guests able to experience a selection of wine from British Columbia’s most respected and revered wineries.

Cudmore says: “The new menu is based on the idea of telling a story. Each journey has its own menu that really features the area it travels through. There has been a lot of research: riding the train to express the terrain we travel through.”

Authentic Journeys

The only thing that is better than doing Rocky Mountaineer is adding other adventures to it. Adventure World has a number of itineraries that include Rocky Mountaineer, such as the seven-night ‘Authentic Canadian Rockies’ and ‘Sip and Savour Canadian Flavours’ itineraries. The seven-night ‘Authentic Canadian Rockies’ itinerary starts in vibrant Vancouver, where you can opt to rest or explore some of the harbour cities highlights, from Capilano Suspension Bridge Park to a foodie tour of Granville Island Market, or perhaps a bike tour through Stanley Park.  

Day two you’ll board the legendary Rocky Mountaineer, travelling in GoldLeaf Service, marvelling at the landscape skipping past the windows as you socialise with other passengers and sit enthralled as the team of onboard hosts share rich, historic stories of the rail line, geological marvels, communities, and Indigenous peoples along the routes. The train will take you into the heart of BC, with highlights including Hell’s Gate in the Fraser Canyon, and the steep terrain along the Thompson River. 

After a night in Kamloops, enjoy your beautiful glass dome, the company, and the gourmet meals on board as you venture into Alberta, following the North Thompson River through the Monashee and Cariboo Mountains and then into Jasper. 

Once off the train, you’ll spend several days exploring Jasper, Lake Louise and Banff, before finishing your trip in Calgary. Highlights include a mountain -top cooking lesson, wildlife viewing in Jasper NP, journeying down the Icefields Parkway, taking in the beauty of cobalt blue lakes such as Moraine Lake, Bow Lake, Emerald Lake and Lake Minnewanka. 

The ’Sip and Savour Canadian Flavours’ itinerary is heaven on a platter for foodies, with local tastes and flavours, from beavertails and poutine to fine wines and cider. The 11-night itinerary sees you travelling on Rocky Mountaineer for two days in SilverLeaf Service, flying in a float plane and cruising to Victoria by ferry to experience some of Western Canada’s finest culinary adventures including riding to a western cookout by horseback or covered wagon. Add idyllic lakes, wildlife, soaring mountains and striking glaciers, and you have the experience of a lifetime. 

William Cornelius Van Horne was right. Tourists would most definitely come to see this beautiful part of the world. And Rocky Mountaineer plays a big role in that.

Ultimate Canada: There and back again with Adventure World

Adventure World has been sending travellers to Canada for over forty years, let its destination experts create an authentic Canada trip for you – 1300 263 055 www.adventureworld.com.au

For more information, Adventure World’s online Canada portal has all the info on the amazing experiences it offers in this awesome country.

The post Canada: Where adventure never ends appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Experts call it ‘calving’, but it looks and feels way more dramatic when you witness it from​ the ​deck of a ship, front and centre ​rather than ​on a TV documentary or in a travel magazine. It is visceral, loud and literally, in your face.

Alaska is nature at its best, and the best way to see ​it is​ on a cruise with ​Holland America Line.

Cruise with Alaskan cruise royalty

Holland America Line is the longest running Alaska cruise line, sailing the icy waters of the Inside Passage since 1947. That is 76 years showcasing this untamed and isolated part of North America. Back in 1947, the tourism industry was in its infancy, with the 49th state’s economy mostly based on timber, fishing and gold. It is hard to fathom that in 1867, the USA’s Secretary of State William H. Seward, at the behest of President Abraham Lincoln, negotiated the purchase Alaska from Russia for US$7.2 million – at less than two cents an acre. The town of Seward is named after him.

Holland America Line’s cruising credentials go back even further than 1947, with their first journey, on board the Rotterdam in 1872, ​departing ​​the Netherlands for New York City. In 2023, this revered company is celebrating its 150th anniversary – a wonderful achievement. The company now has 11 beautiful ships, with six of them – Eurodam, Koningsdam, Nieuw Amsterdam, Noordam, Westerdam and Zaandam – delivering a premium Alaska experience.

The Nieuw Amsterdam from above and guests whale spotting on a day excursion. Image credits: Holland America Line.

The Alaskan experience

Alaska is heavenly for lovers of nature, with ethereal landscapes that mesmerise and bewitch, telling the story of how they were formed over thousands of years​​. Pristine fjords, turquoise waters fed by glacial flow, and rugged coastlines are complemented with myriad shore tours including just under 180 excursions, some by helicopter and seaplane, that take guests on a wildlife and wilderness encounter.

Between April and October, Holland America Line offers Alaskan cruise departures from Seattle, Washington, roundtrip from Vancouver, Canada, or in either direction between Vancouver and Whittier, Alaska. The company has more sailings to Glacier Bay National Park than any other cruise line, and deservingly, was voted number 1 in Alaska for wildlife and wilderness tours. That’s because with Holland America Line, you don’t just SEE Alaska; you live it and breathe it, learning about its history, its ecosystems, its wildlife and its Indigenous history. You’ll have a front row seat to breathtaking scenery, wildlife spotting, all while enjoying the premium lifestyle that Holland America Line delivers.

Marvel at Glacier Bay National Park​ and take in the equally impressive glaciers Holland America Line stops at.​ They include Hubbard Glacier, College Fjord, Twin Sawyer Glaciers of Tracy Arm and Dawed Glacier, as well as Juneau Ice Field and the wildly desolate and heartachingly beautiful Denali National Park. As for wildlife, you could see whales, orcas, otters, caribou, bears, seals, sea lions and eagles with an impressive array of tours from places like Sitka, Anchorage, Ketchikan and Skagway. 

Seals and their pup in Denali Nation Park and a whale breaching the surface of icy Alaskan waters. Image credits: Holland America Line.

Life on board

Life is good … amazingly good, on Holland America Line’s ships. From its array of dining options to world-class entertainment, you will never be bored. Depending on which ship you are on​, you can enjoy​ venues such as BB King’s Blues Club, Rolling Stone Lounge, the always popular Billboard Onboard, ​plus the Third Avenue West, a jazz trio performing in the Ocean Bar and the incredible BBC Earth Concert are all world class.

A couple admires the views whilst onboard and guests enjoy a multicourse dinner onboard in a sophisticated setting. Image credits: Holland America Line.

Dive further into Alaska with Holland America Line’s “Alaska Up Close” program, which immerses guests in the local cultures of the destinations visited through authentic workshops and lectures conducted by passionate experts who know Alaska, and its peoples.  

For instance, on every Alaska cruise, a Huna Native Interpreter in historical dress comes on board during the evening stay in Juneau to talk about the history of the Tlingit people with “Native Voices: Stories of the Tlingit People.” Guests will indulge in cocktails featuring real glacier ice, enjoy an Alaska-themed brunch, Gold Rush dinner, seafood boils, salmon bakes and themed stations in Lido Market. 

In 2022, Holland America Line became the first cruise line to achieve the Responsible Fisheries Management (RFM) certification, achieved by serving only fresh, certified sustainable and traceable wild Alaska seafood. On any Alaska cruise, the line serves more than 2,000 pounds of Alaska salmon, 1,000 pounds of Alaska cod, 800 pounds of Alaska halibut, 500 pounds of Alaska rockfish and more. All menus allow guests to ‘Taste Alaska’ by featuring region-specific dishes and fresh fish.

If reeling in your very own catch is up your alley, the ‘Savor My Catch’ program is offered on select fishing-focused shore excursions. Savour every bite on board, and allow Holland America Line’s expert chefs prepare and serve it in a true ocean-to-table experience.

Closer to home

It is not just Alaska that Holland America Line caters for so well, with a great range of itineraries elsewhere in North America, in Europe, in the waters off Australia and also in New Zealand. These local cruises are a hot ticket item for discerning guests who love the premium product that Holland America Line provides… with a very high rate of returning guests. That is understandable, as once you experience the service, the attention to detail across Holland America Line’s ships and the calibre of shore excursions, you will want to book another cruise, pronto.  

Alaska, and the world await.  

Clockwise from top left: Stunning Alaskan scenery, the McKinley Chalet and The Nieuw Amsterdam on route. Image credits: Holland America Line.

This article is brought to you by Holland America Line.

Book a cruise today and save with our Have It All Fare. Save 50% on our top selling add-ons which includes Shore Excursion Credit, Drinks Package, Specialty Dining and Wi-Fi. Terms & conditions apply.

The post Alaska unplugged appeared first on Australian Geographic.

But there is so much more to Africa than her national parks and array of creatures great and small. There are wine regions with blankets of vines with a backdrop of mountain peaks. There are beaches, surf breaks, Victoria Falls, rivers where hippos soak and thousands of birds flock, the timeless sands and stark landscapes of Namibia and ancient cities in Egypt and Morocco that turn back time. Then there are wonderful places and ways that you can give back to this sun-drenched land … through conservation and Travelling with a Purpose.

New adventures

Adventure World knows Africa, after 40 years of touring, discovering and learning about this continent, and has put all its experience into planning a new range of itineraries that fit the company’s ethos of responsible travel and culturally immersive experiences that make a difference to the local communities, and help conserve wildlife.  

In the Greater Kruger region, guests on the ‘Authentic Southern Africa’ itinerary will visit the Kapama Game Reserve, bordering Kruger National Park. Its anti-poaching units are crucial to conservation of species in the greater Kruger region. Education is key to conservation, and as part of Kapama’s community development program, guests can visit Makwetse School during school term, see their Eco Village, exchange with the students and teachers, and can provide additional support via their Pack for a Purpose program.

The emphasis is on gorillas in the ‘Authentic Gorillas and Masai Mara’ itinerary where a visit to Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park includes access to the Ellen de Generes campus of the Dian Fossey Fund. Guests will learn how gorillas are tracked and how important this is to their survival. Trekking through forest to see these mighty primates in their own environment will be a spine tingling experience. This itinerary will also take guests to The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust in Nairobi. This centre raises and reintegrates orphaned elephants and rhinos, and is very active in anti-poaching measures. 

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust is also on the itinerary of ‘Authentic East Africa’, which showcases mind-blowing scenery. In Tarangire National Park stay in a lodge fringed by baobab trees and marvel at the sheer amount of elephants in the park – one of the largest concentrations in Africa. Stupendous views await at a lodge perched on the rim of Ngorongoro Crater, a conservation area home to over 25,000 large animals.

A different Africa

This land of plenty is home to many cultures and great contrasts. Away from the plains of the Serengeti and Masai Mara, explore a different part of Africa, one of history going back thousands of years. Adventure World’s ‘Authentic Morocco’, ‘Authentic Oman’, and ‘Authentic Egypt and Jordan’ itineraries weave timeless tales through stunning landscapes, and will do it the Adventure World way, engaging with communities conserving the past, culture and traditions. 

Egypt’s archaeological treasure will be uncovered with Adventure World’s local guides, many of whom are qualified Egyptologists. Guests will also be able to see a huge range of ancient artefacts on a visit to the soon-to-open Grand Egypt Museum, where precious and priceless items are to be presented for the world to see. 

Adventure World Authentic Africa trips are all for independent travellers and can be customised to suit any style. For those itching to get off the beaten track, consider Adventure World’s 11-day self-drive trip in Namibia. After meeting an Adventure World representative, who will deliver your hire car and go through the itinerary and all the information about the trip, you can set off knowing you have the company’s concierge service should you need it. Namibia is known for its striking landscapes, from the Namib Desert, to Damaraland, the stark beauty of the Etosha Salt Pan, the dunes of Sossusvlei, and Etosha National Park, home to a variety of unique and rare wildlife including desert-adapted elephants, lions, rhinos and giraffes. Travellers will learn about the indigenous communities of Namibia, including the Herero, Himba and San people, with community visits to available in Damaraland and Okahandja. 

Several properties, such as Onguma Tented Camp, Ongava Lodge and Mowani Mountain Lodge are all located on conservancies and are great examples of community-based conservation and sustainable tourism.

The connections you make to Africa, its people, and its wildlife, will resonate long after your journey home. But know this, it won’t be long before Africa tugs on your heartstrings again, and you will long to return.

To find out more about Adventure World’s new Authentic Africa itineraries, visit adventureworld.com.au

The post Africa: An authentic experience in the wildest of worlds appeared first on Australian Geographic.

For me, it was part of what ended up being – over a week in the Shoalhaven – the ultimate re-boot. Global pandemic, crowded city, busy home-life and work disappear over the five days we spend exploring this area, giving myself and Liz (both coincidentally ‘country kids’ with that unique connection to regional Australia) that immemorable reminder that nature will always trump industry – and it’s a hell of a lot more fun, too.

Southern belle

The Shoalhaven region covers from pretty Shoalhaven Heads in the north, across to the rugged ramparts of the Morton escarpment near Kangaroo Valley and North Durras to the south. It is, really, the epitome of an adventure playground, with more than 100 beaches, some mighty waterways (the Shoalhaven and Clyde rivers), an even mightier Jervis Bay, and 70 per cent of its total area comprising national parks and state forests. We are exploring the popular Jervis Bay and surrounds (encompassing Huskisson, Vincentia, Boodee NP and more) and the south-eastern part of Morton National Park on this week-long adventure, with the seemingly over-sized promise of hiking, paddling, climbing, mountain biking and cultural enrichment ahead of us. 

As it turned out, that word ‘over-sized’ doesn’t come close: that promise was more than fulfilled, with this writer reaching the end of the week exhilarated and exhausted but having only really scraped the surface in terms of the sheer amount of adventure and exploration the Shoalhaven offers visitors. It was a sacrifice we were more than happy to make again…

Straight to the edge

We, literally, hit the road running on day one, tackling a short drive from our accommodation at Huskisson north around Jervis Bay to the pretty village of Currarong, on the northern side of the Beecroft Peninsula. Here, we find what has to be one of the best short bushwalks in the region: Abrahams Bosom Walking Track and the roughly one-hour-return sojourn along the Wreck/Coomies walk, passing coastal heath and numerous viewpoints back across the coastline, to the natural wonder that is Gosang’s Tunnel. 

This tunnel bores through the headland for around 20 metres – and requires a slightly bent-over shuffle to negotiate – but the location and view at the other end make that effort more than worth it. Coming out of the tunnel you’re deposited on the edge of some of the famous sea cliffs of the Shoalhaven, overlooking the thundering Tasman Sea as it pounds against the rocks below. The walk – and viewpoint – is a microcosm of the region’s natural wonder and the best bang for your bucks for visitors

We amble around the large rock-shelf that juts east from the tunnel entrance on the cliff-side for a while, enjoying the view and the fact we are so fortunate to have it all to ourselves. It’s with some reluctance that we re-enter the tunnel for the return journey back to the carpark, but a reluctance muted somewhat by what we have coming up next…

Two wheels, trails galore and the energy of youth

The Shoalhaven is made for bicycles. I decide that not more than a few minutes after we arrive on our first day and spot the excellent multi-use path linking Huskisson to Vincentia. That impression of two-wheeled friendliness is amplified after we arrive at Superbowl, one of the many mountain bike trails in the area, to meet Nick Smee, President of South Coast United Mountainbikers. SCUM, as the club is known (yep, I agree, it’s a brilliant acronym) was established in 2004 and currently has around 170 members. Joining Nick to show us around is Grant Turner and a bunch of the club’s Academy riders, including Academy coach Lynne Vaughan. 

The 8km loop of Superbowl is one of three MTB trails (the other two main MTB trails are Coondoo, at 11km, and Butterfly, at6km) in the Callalla Bay area (accessed off Forest Road, the main route to Callalla Bay from the Princes Highway). For those looking for MTB trails closer to Nowra, Cabbage Tree Lane – a 6km loop – offers a brilliant beginner/kids’ experience just west of the town. The club, with NSW Forestry, manages these trails.

Superbowl is just magic, with its mix of undulating singletrack, berms and drop-offs, flowing between big trees and lush green ferns. And the kids from the Academy (a near-equal mix of male and female riders) showcase it at its best, with skills that are a credit to the Academy program. No matter how much ‘faster’ I ask these young guns to go, they just keep getting quicker again; big berms, drop-offs and jumps are confidently tackled each and every time at increasing speeds. It’s impressive stuff and a fitting result of Lynne and the club’s focus on not only the riding, but the social side of MTB.

“I am constantly proud of how focused and dedicated they are to their sport and they always bring 100 per cent to training,” Lynn says. “They are forming lifelong friendships with a mutual love of bike riding. Their achievements are a credit to their hard work but it’s not about winning or being first (a nice side effect) but the journey they have along the way – learning independence, resilience, making friends, having fun and building lifelong wellbeing strategies.” It’s hard not to agree with that.

It’s hard not to see the appeal of a weekend road-trip down here to this part of the Shoalhaven just to sample these trails – something that Nick reckons is already popular with visitors from Sydney and Canberra – and it’d be an easy task to convince the family to tag along, too. here just to sample these trails – something that Nick reckons is already popular with visitors from Sydney and Canberra – and it’d be an easy task to convince the family to tag along, too. 

“It’s really well known, this area, now,” he says. “Each weekend we’ll always have cars parked here and out at Butterfly. For people who don’t want to ride, they’re in one of the accommodations around here and they can spend a weekend at the beach.

“Those that ride, can get out and have a good ride. Ride in the morning, go and surf in the afternoon; it’s a good weekend away.” Those words were no sooner out of Nick’s mouth then I was mentally jotting in a date for a return.

Water world

The sun is teasing us through the dawn clouds at Iluka Beach, turning the early morning light blue, then purple, then later gold as Jervis Bay Kayaks guide Terry Davis, Liz and I sort out our sea kayaks on the shore. We’re heading out for an exploratory paddle across this southern part of Jervis Bay, toward Bowen Island, a small but pristine bump that sits just off the edge of the Bherwerre Peninsula, the bay’s tree-crowded, beach-lined southern ‘heads’ – a stark contrast to the steep sea cliffs of Point Perpendicular on the bay’s northern heads. 

Water, to me as a south coast boy, has always been a source of connection to where I grew up, and this paddle magnifies that. It’s super-early as there’s no wind thanks to the shelter provided by the peninsula’s landmass, and the bay’s famous white sand and that muted morning light fire up the water into a glassy turquoise mirror. 

When we reach the north-easterly curve of Bherwerre Peninsula, past Murray Beach Boat Ramp, we are in less sheltered open water and it is brilliant – and perfectly timed with the sun now fully risen and turning the rocky outcrops on the southern end of Bowen Island a rich gold, as the ocean’s wave crash against them. The wind hits us here a bit, but paddling through the slightly choppy water, if anything, brings a closer connection to this magic location; nothing beats that cliché of wind, salt and water in your face when you’re on the water to describe that feeling of total immersion in your environment.

We pause and shelter behind the island for a little while, hoping to spot some of the island’s resident penguins, but they’re nowhere to be seen this morning; most likely they are out foraging for food. That missed wildlife opportunity is soon forgotten, though, as we head back toward Iluka Beach.

Wet and wild

I paddle ahead to photograph Liz and Terry as we re-cross the open water and, in between getting to where I need to be, and turning the kayak around, I miss the turtle that Terry and Liz spot. I do, however, have a nice, up-close-and-personal encounter with a surprised seal that bobs up in front of my kayak, emitting a short bark of surprise before diving down again. It’s another of the many reminders that, in this still-wild bay, we’re just short-term passers-by – but more than happy to be ‘just’ that. This is something Jervis Bay Kayaks owners Bart and Sarah Malecki know after a number of years paddling here, with Bart mentioning numerous whale encounters, and one amazing experience with the bay’s resident dolphins.

“Probably the best experience I’ve had; I’ve been surfing my kayak on Cave Beach with no one around – just me and the kayak, little bit of surf – and I was joined by a pod of a dozen dolphins,” he laughs. “They were literally surfing waves right next to me for an hour. 

“I’d surf it in, punch back out in my kayak, they’d come back and sort-of frolic around me. And when I caught another wave, they’d catch it with me. We did that together for an hour; me and a dozen dolphins having a surf at Cave Beach with no other human in sight for an hour.”

After the brief seal and turtle catch-up, we keep paddling back toward Iluka Beach. Unsurprisingly, we take our time on this return leg; that connection is strong between the bay’s water and us. The wind has come up a bit more, but Terry tucks us in close to shore and we pass the pretty natural rock formation of Hole in The Wall (also accessible via a walking track from Jervis Bay Road) and a few early beachgoers enjoying the morning. As Iluka Beach looms closer, Terry convinces us (well, it didn’t take much) to land briefly on a section of beach further around the bay. He, like us, doesn’t seem in any hurry to re-join civilization, even though in this part of the world, even that is no hard task. After a wander in the sand – and more ogling at that brilliant water-colour from shore – we jump back in for a short push back to our put-in point. 

All too soon, it’s over, well, sort of… For this latent sea kayaker, this trip’s combo of pristine marine environment, a brilliant paddling route and knowledgeable guide has reawakened the passion for ocean-borne journeys. It’s easy to see why Bart rates it as the “quintessential Jervis Bay experience” for paddlers of all skill levels.

More Shoalhaven water fun

The oft-calm waters found in different parts of Jervis Bay, plus pretty Currambene Creek, allow Stand Up Paddle-boarding to thrive. This popular outdoor activity is also very easy to learn, confirmed by the pretty awesome guarantee from Huskisson’s SUP with George, run by George Payne, that he’ll have you up on a board, paddling and enjoying the local marine environment, on your first try. 

For George, opening up a SUP hire and guide business (he also hires out boats and fishing gear, kayaks and bikes, and grew up working on the local tour boats) in the Shoalhaven region was a no-brainer, he tells me when I catch up with him in the afternoon after the kayaking. Running the business combines his love for the local marine environment and 10 years of SUP experience (he’s Academy of Surfing Instructors SUP qualified), with the chance to showcase it at a leisurely pace. The guided SUP tours are usually around 1.5 hours on the water the Currambene Creek tours cover around 3km of paddling, at a nice leisurely pace. It’s the variety of conditions and environments that mean George can offer a number of locations and tours, as he explains.

“I’ve got about eight different tours,” he explains. “All of which are very weather dependent; we get different conditions on many different days. My common one is we operate in Currambene Creek, because you can normally escape that northerly summer wind, which is nice. And yes, we can go out into the bay, as well.”

A highlight for George when guiding and teaching future SUP paddlers – and confirmation he really does have one of the best jobs in the world – is the chance to spot the abundant marine life, with some of his launch sites for creek trips ideal for spotting huge stingrays – “the size of car bonnets; like, they’re huge” – through to giant flathead fish up to one metre in length.

After leaving George I reflect on the conversations I have had with both him and Bart regarding the bay, its surrounds, and the immense appeal of its environment. Being immersed in the Shoalhaven’s marine wonderland has enabled a stronger-than-imagined reconnection with my south coast roots and made me realise what I always scoffed at as an ignorant city-based ideal of a ‘seachange’ is the reality here – and one worth experiencing, even if only for a few days. 

The closest connection in the Shoalhaven

It is the following morning – another Shoalhaven belter of the sun rising slowly over the bay – that we catch up with the lads from Djiriba Waagura at the Jervis Bay Maritime Museum. Matt, Raymond, and Raymond’s younger brother Bobby sit down for a chat and it’s not long before us ‘south coast boys’ figure out we’ve got a connection through mutual friends from further down the coast (Moruya, Batemans Bay, Narooma, Eden) where I grew up. It’s a funny twenty minutes that proves the world really is small. Speaking of connections, and one that is incredibly strong; Raymond and Matt’s unique – and ancient – connection comes through their family group’s heritage (they originated from La Perouse) as artefact makers, and it is something the two are incredibly proud to continue. 

The welcome to country ceremony is an enriching experience, with Raymond explaining the significance of it to all of us, in terms of it allowing us to connect with our ancestors via a gateway through the smoke to help dispel any sadness or anger we may be holding inside. The term ‘spiritual’ gets overused in today’s world, but in the case of the smoking ceremony, it truly does apply.

The walk is led by Raymond and he takes us through a winding path that covers off a variety of different plants, their significance to his culture, and their uses today, referring a number of times back to what their elders (from the nearby Wreck Bay community) have taught them. Later, toward the end of our walk, we encounter Matt, who has a special treat for us in the form of a native sarsaparilla drink to taste.

“For us here on the coast; that’s our most important medicine.” Matt says. “What it does, it’s a boost to your immune system, to the point where, if you’ve got an infection, it will keep away the common cold… It’s a super-medicine.” 

The walk is enriching and it’s a bit of a bummer to say goodbye to the lads once we return to near where we started, close to a colourful cabin that is associated with Raymond’s grandfather, Uncle Laddie Timbery, who was a highly respected elder and a rich source of knowledge for Raymond. For another source of cultural understanding Djiriba Waagura runs on-country cultural camps, as Matt explains.

“We run on-country cultural camps where we invite people on the country and we invite them into our world,” he says. “When they come and stay with us, we welcome them as family, and they learn some of our cultural practices and we collect abalone. All the different shellfish, kippies, Sydney cockles – we call them ‘bimblers’ in our language.

“We take young people on expeditions through the bush where we’re following the track the old people did – our song lines. And we’re able to take them to all the sacred sites where our old people have been for a long time…”

Climb a river, walk a comeback story

Robert Crow, of Climb Nowra, is the epitome of a climber. Lean, strong and with a calm demeanour that always seems, to people who don’t understand the appeal of climbing, to be the polar opposite mind-set to what they think must be required to scale vertical cliffs and snowclad mountains. It is this calm demeanour, however, that is most welcome today as he stands with a slightly nervous Liz and starts the process of introducing her to the essentials of climbing, in what is a very unique climb location, right above the beautiful Shoalhaven River. 

Yep, for those who think of “the Shoalhaven” and “climbing”, invariably the awesome cliffs at Point Perpendicular spring to mind – and with good reason: this part of the south coast is a climbing Mecca, offering exposed routes over the ocean, and views back across Jervis Bay. What is less well-known to the larger climbing public is the fantastic climbing on offer along the banks of the Shoalhaven River, just inland from the Nowra bridge. 

We first met Rob at his place and chatted about climbing philosophies and locations around the world before he sorted Liz out with her gear and we set off to start her fast-tracked introduction to climbing, mindful of Rob’s philosophy of climb tuition, and what he has in store for Liz this afternoon.

“I want to take people who really feel it and care for it… and understand the value of it and build the system,” he affirms. “So, I would start from scratch and build the system and have that person belaying me before the end of the day.”

And that’s how it pans out. The location, on the river’s southern side, is a cliff-wall with a number of bolted routes, and a view over a flat embankment below (complete with family of grazing roos), that looks pretty formidable at first glance. But lots of quiet assurance and guidance from Rob sees Liz scaling her first climb route with aplomb, taking her time, listening to Rob’s advice as he belays her, and topping out above the tree-line with what must be a cracking view across the river valley.

Then, the pair accomplish the second part of his system-building chat; Liz jumps on belay and Rob scampers up the same route with all the finesse garnered from decades of climbing experience. Liz is pumped after the climb and we’re both gob-smacked when Rob starts listing the numerous other climb routes along both sides of the river. This one is my favourite though, as Rob says that instead of looping from North Nowra, across the bridge and through the back of town to this climb, you could, instead, paddle a canoe across from the northern side, tie-up below, and be at the crag in 15 minutes – epic!). 

The next day is an incredible contrast: from the lush valley of the Shoalhaven River, we are up on the fire-scorched plateau of the Budawangs mountain range, inland from Milton (30 minutes’ drive south of Huskisson), tailing Chris Zinon of Big Nature Adventures along a bushwalking track. This country, near the borders of Budawang and Morton national parks, is rugged, and up here away from the green coastal valley we’d passed through, it seems even more so with a lot more of the region’s prolific sandstone exposed after the bushfires of December 2019/January 2020. Looking at the regrowth, you’d think it had gone ‘okay’ through the fire. That is, until you see the blackened banksia, and scorched soil. 

If there’s any good in the bad ‘news’, it is that we get to see a lot more of the Shoalhaven landscape than usual, with it denuded of vegetation. And it’s a belting view from our final viewpoint looking over the twisting valleys that mark the routes of a number of waterways, including the Clyde River. Further, The Castle – a bushwalker’s favourite – can be seen, along with other peaks.  

The Shoalhaven: where there’s never enough time

It’s the final morning. I have not long returned from a swim in Moona Moona Creek, right across the road from our Bay Blu apartment, and am now sitting alone at the back of the Jervis Bay Wild cruiser, enjoying the view of the bay’s striking green/blue water. It’s the end of a huge week and I am still trying to get my head around the sheer amount of adventure, fun, good food, great people and amazing locations we’ve experienced and the chance to reconnect after too long in the city. 

Breaking from my thoughts is a shout when we reach the incredible cliffs and rock-stacks of Point Perpendicular, on the bay’s north-eastern side. Soon after, we’re joined by a bunch of marine comedians – Jervis Bay’s resident dolphin pod – with their frolicking and surfing of the boat’s bow wave. That’s brilliant, but it’s their natural, knowing smile that catches my attention most; it’s as if they’re laughing at just how lucky they are to live in this spectacular region. And I can’t really blame them for that; I’d be laughing, too.

The Shoalhaven Fact File

Getting there: The Shoalhaven region is about two hours from Sydney, via Princes Highway, and two hours from Canberra 

Accommodation: There are plenty of accommodation options in the Jervis Bay area, ranging from caravan parks to apartments to holiday house rentals. Aus Geo ADVENTURE stayed at the Bay Blu Apartments, booked via Jervis Bay Holiday Rentals. 
See www.jervisbayrentals.com.au

Kayaking: Jervis Bay Kayak and Paddle Sports offers a range of tours and lessons, from sit-on-top tours to sea kayak adventures. It also offers sea kayak and SUP tuition, and gear hire. See www.jervisbaykayaks.com.au

Cultural tours: Djiriba Waagura offers the two tours, Timbery Tour (as featured in this story) that runs for two hours, and Waraigala Badha in Nowra as well as other short tours, plus cultural camps. See www.djiribawaagura.com

Freediving: Woebegone Freedive offers courses on freediving in the waters of Jervis Bay. It also has guided beach- and boat-based snorkelling adventures, kids’ courses and private tuition. See www.woebegone.com.au

Climbing: For excellent climbing tuition, Rob Crow of Climb Nowra is the go-to. Rob knows all the crags exceptionally well. See www.climbnowra.com

SUP: SUP With George offers eight different SUP tours, as well as SUP, kayak, bike, boat and fishing gear hire. If you want to learn this activity, George and his instructors will have you on the water before you know it. See www.supwithgeorge.com.au

Bushwalking: For bushwalking in the area’s national parks, give Chris from Big Nature Adventure a shout. See www.bignatureadventures.com

Food: Huskisson has a number of eateries, including the Kanpai Japanese Restaurant, the Huskisson Hotel, as well as cool cafes, such as Pilgrims, 5 Little Pigs and Salty Joe’s. 

More info: For all things Shoalhaven, the excellent www.shoalhaven.com website is an absolute must for planning itineraries, finding accommodation, the latest news on festivals and more.

The post Nature calls: Visit the Shoalhaven for an elemental reconnection appeared first on Australian Geographic.

Now a regional city with a 2021 population of just under 12,000, Swan Hill was once an important inland river trading port until the expansion of railways in the late 19th century. Today, it’s a productive agricultural centre, with irrigation ensuring reliable crops of cereals, citrus and stone fruits, grapes, nuts and legumes.

The city is also an important service centre for the Murray Mallee region. It’s become a popular tourist destination, with excellent museums, stunning natural scenery and quality food and wine. Fine weather is yet another drawcard for Swan Hill, boasting “more sunny days per year than the Gold Coast”, with a pleasant average temperature of 23°C.

The CBD includes cafes, a range of specialist shops, and restaurants where local produce is an integral part of the menu. Swan Hill is also known for its gardens and walks, with the narrow Riverside Park and the Swan Hill River Walk being notable highlights. The most significant local attraction is the remarkable Swan Hill Pioneer Settlement, a 3ha open‑air history museum on the banks of the Little Murray River. The settlement is recognised as Australia’s first reconstruction of a 19th‑century river port.

Location:

Swan Hill is 338km north‑west of Melbourne via the M79 and A79 highways. It’s 70m above sea level. 

Origin of Name:

The local First Nations people called it Matakupaat – “Place of the Platypus”. The European name Swan Hill was given to the original town by surveyor and explorer Sir Thomas Mitchell, who camped here near the Murray River in 1836. In his journal he wrote of a “shallow lagoon where swans and other wild fowl so abounded that, although half a mile from our camp, their noise disturbed us through the night”. 

Visitor Information :

Swan Hill Region Information
Centre

Useful Websites:

visitthemurray.com.au

visitmelbourne.com

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Image credit: Getty Images

Places of interest